Is Less More?

[mixfinder]

When using a vintage automatic washer as a daily driver which prolongs it's life?  Washing normal to smaller loads more often or washing Bob loads less frequently.  I tend to think 20 normal loads are less strain on the machine than 10 Bob loads.  Am I all wet?

 

[arbilab]

That shot looks box-new. Schweet. A classic Tag is like looking at laundry and saying 'let's party'. (Jeff Spicoli, Fast Times at Ridgemont High)

I always underload. Cleans better that way too. Specially on single-rinse machines. I bought a working 70s Tag (avocado) from a shop in 1988 and it ran 10 more years.

 

[appnut]

Even the Master himself, if he had a vintage machine as a daily driver, would slightly underload it normally, a "BobLoad" for that vintage Daily Driver would be considered reasonably full by anyone's standards, not "BobLoaded" as I would have done when it was brand new and not considered vintage.

 

[ronhic]

IMHO

...it is always better to slightly underload any machine - Top or Front load, vintage or non-vintage.

 

You get much better mechanical action, less linting from fabric interaction and better rinsing.

 

I'd be prepared to bet that part of the reason so many of these older machines have lasted so well is not all down to their components, but to some degree, down to the way the owners used them and that the salesperson that sold the machines years ago knew more about what and how than the spotty youth selling one today.....

 

Mind, it didn't hurt that these were BIG purchases and folks expected both knowledge AND service and were prepared to listen to what was said....today, many people really do think they know everything...both salesperson and prospective purchaser...

 

[launderess]

Cannot Speak For "Vintage" Front Loaders

But any such machine made say after 1980's or even 1970's are designed to give excellent washing performance at rated load capacity. In days past all sorts of scales were sold as an accessory to Madame's laundry room so she could put the proper amount of wash in the machine.

Have been told on numerous occasions by several repairmen that front loaders will last longer and give better service generally if normal loads are at rated capacity. The rationale behind this is that the washers are desgined to balance such loads before spinning. Under loading often leads to unbalanced loads and the resultant shaking/vibrations over time can damage the machine even if every so slightly each time.

My Miele for instance is rock soild on spinning and quite quiet when loaded at capacity, especially using high spin speeds. With smaller loads one often notices the machine taking more time to properly balance loads and sometimes simply gives up and goes with the situation on the ground.

 

[ronhic]

Whilst I agree with you in the main, 'slightly underload' for 90% of modern front load machines where capacity is shown by weight (that is most of the world outside of nth America) this would mean the drum would still be 'full' in most consumers minds.

Interestingly, British consumer magazine 'Which?' test at 80% of claimed capacity which is probably more representative of how most use them and also helps take account of stupid capacity claims. On the other hand, our consumer magazine 'Choice', test at full capacity AND on the coldest setting...and apply a penalty to scores where cold isn't the minimum temperature!

Choice have found that to fill to claimed capacity often means forcing the last items in....not good for wash performance, possibly ok for fabric wear as it's hard to create wear if there is no movement! Famously, one American brands capacity claim some years ago was so grossly overstated that the lid on the machine was held open at a 30 degree angle with washing spewing out....

As a result, slightly under filling compared to the stated capacity will still mean a full drum - just not stuffed!

 

[daveamkrayoguy]

"WEIGHING IN" w/ My 'Two-Cents':

I usually wash "Large" as opposed to "Extra Large" wash loads except in rarest occasions (such as doing blankets & bed sheets)...

That is generally how much laundry a typical load makes (although it's usually TWO LOADS broken down--which would be "TOO LARGE loads" for my washer to do safely & efficiently & in good health)...

That said, it is beneficiary for all the above reasons to make this my "regular washing recipe" for "a typical load"...

-- Dave

 

[westingman123]

strictly anecdotal evidence

Mama always washed smaller loads, more often. Her 1963 Whirlpool lasted until I graduated high school in 1982. I bought her a new Whirlpool that year, and it remains in service today. Judge for thyself.

 

[lordkenmore]

"But any such machine made say after 1980's or even 1970's are designed to give excellent washing performance at rated load capacity."

 

I'm not entirely sure this is 100% true. I have had the misfortune of living with an early 90s Frigidaire twice. Both machines only appeared to work adequately when underloaded.

 

Of course, things are probably different for a better modern washer.

 

[brummybear]

Fussy LG

I have an 11KG front loading LG. It simply won't spin unless it's full. ( 2 years old)
My two 25 year old hoptpoint top loders never seem to minde what I do to them whether they are stuffed stupid or just have a small lode they just do !

 

[yogitunes]

I was always told by repairmen to wash full water level loads, its the lower levels that put a strain on the system that cause premature wear and tear.....

not sure if this is true......but thats all my mother would do, and let the machine rest for about 20 minutes between loads....never overloading.....hers was a 1963 GE filterflo that would not die!

your mileage may vary

 

[daveamkrayoguy]

One thing that I will say 'bout smaller loads:

There is LESS to FOLD!

Depends, usually on how many SOCKS you care to match up, too...!

-- Dave

 

[combo52]

IS LESS MORE?

Usually not. The more loads you run the shorter the life of the machine will be. A Timer, an Inlet Valve. the main motor, the water pump, the main seals, the electrical switches and wiring will all only last so many loads. Almost any piece of equipment will last longest if used as intended. And not only will a washer last longer if loaded fully it will often clean better as there is better friction between the agitator and other clothes and the load will also spin better as there is enough clothing to balance properly which puts much less stress on the suspension system.

 

Over the years we have always noticed that the households where there is someone doing twice as many loads as necessary for the family size that the washers last about half as long. We often see this in households where thier is a full time housekeeper that is always washing something. As compared to the busy mother that only gets around to washing clothes when everything is dirty and then does a few big loads. We have noticed that the latter user will have a fraction of the washer and dryer problems.

 

[Unimatic1140]

I only wash full loads in my machines, it is better, but full means good turnover. I never, ever overload any of my machines. I've actually taken a piece or two out after agitation has begun if I think the movement is restricted in any way.

Also overloading the washer usually means clothes will come out wrinkled from the dryer, they need room to tumble freely. I can wash five pair of jeans (size 30/30 and 30/32) in the 1940s GE AW6, which final spins them at 1140rpm for 9 minutes and they come out 100% wrinkle free after drying. When I used to have the GE Harmony washer, spinning at 1000rpm for 10 minutes washed 11 pair of jeans and dried them all in one load they would come out quite wrinkled.

 

[mixfinder]

Clarifying

My question was based on washing at the full water level and whether or not twice as many "reasonable" loads were less stress than half as many "Bob" loads.  Robert answered it well and John brought up a point I ovelooked.  I had expected wear and tear was on the drive mechanisms only when its a plethora of internal component working in symphony.  Someone once told my mother to always let the dryer fully cool down between loads and recommended waiting an hour between each load.  Its something you forget until her regression brings up a new hot button from years ago.

Kelly

 

[lordkenmore]

I have generally preferred doing roughly full loads--maximum water level, but probably slight underloading of clothes. I have assumed, I guess, that cleaning performance could be the best with a full load since the machine is designed with X capacity. Sort of like how many 12 cup coffee makers can make 4 cups, but seem to produce worse results at 4 cups than they do at 12.

 

BUT one issue has been a problem--there have been plenty of times when I just don't have enough of one item to ever generate a full load. I tend to sort aggressively--maybe with obsession/compulsion. Not just color, but also I consider the type of item. Some people might have no problem washing, say, ten pairs of white underwear with the white kitchen towels to get a full load. That is not something you would find me doing.

 

One thing I like about vintage washers is the capacity was so much smaller. It makes it easier for a single person (like me) to get a full load (even with aggressive sorting AND with no insane quantity of "similar" type clothes kept in a quantity only to be sure of filling up a huge modern machine).

 

 

 

[arbilab]

Sort of like how many 12 cup coffee makers can make 4 cups, but seem to produce worse results at 4 cups than they do at 12.
==========================================

Know why that is? Because almost a whole cup comes out before the basket and grounds are up to reaction temperature. With 12c the effect is not 'too' noticeable, but with 4 it is and with 1 it's undrinkable.

I make 1c in a 12c machine. Here's the trick. Boil a pan of water. Toss it in the basket and lower the filter and grounds into the hot water. By the time it drains out it will smell like coffee. Now snap the basket into the machine and energize.

 

[mixfinder]

Electronic Sorting

I am in agreement with Lord Kenmore regarding sorting.  I sort by color, weight and soil and have elevated the laundry process to an art form.  With the Maytag center dial dryer the choices were Regular, Permanent Press, Damp Dry and Air Fluff.  In order to work at optimal performance the clothes need to come dry at the same time, otherwise you end up with fried panties and damp bath towels.

 

[autowasherfreak]

When I was using my Maytag A606 I always slightly underloaded it. My mom taught me never to overload a machine, and this was when she was still using her Maytag wringer.