It begins... The Inglis restoration

[kenmoreguy64]

Wow Paul...

From what I can see, did you have to cut the spin tube or is that part of the brake drum upside down in the last pic?

Looks like a job well done so far. The donor parts are indeed in much better shape. How many coats of POR did you use?

Gordon

 

[turquoisedude]

Gordon, it's part of the brake drum. The spin tube 'lip' just dropped right off as if it had been cut... That was just one coat of POR-15 on tub in these pictures. I want to get a second one on today!!

 

[mickeyd]

Replies 25 & 26

The post and the tub look like they went through the magic vortex of a black hole in outer space and came out the other end fully rejuvenated and nicely black. I love it. Hubby must be growing fearful of your galactic power and becoming ever more tolerant.

Glad you're keeping the lighted Inglis alive; it's so much more stellar, not to mention patriotic ;'D

 

[kenmoreguy64]

The spin tube 'lip' just dropped right off as if it

Wow Paul, that's incredible!! Maybe people who dealt this these machines every day saw this, but I've never come across a machine that was wet for so long down there that it destroyed the lip on the spin tube. That is probably why the transmission below that area is so crudded up with black goop. They are seldom clean in that area, but that one is really greasy/wet looking.

This leads me to a question - is the original Inglis gearcase fouled with water or contaminated oil inside? It may well be. I'd be tempted to use the WP gearcase, OR open the Inglis trans and see what condition the oil is in. I had one a couple years ago that had chocolate milk colored "oil" in it that was the consistency of heavy molasses.

Good luck on the hunt for a spin tube!

Gordon

 

[turquoisedude]

You know, I never actually saw the washer leak, but I have an awful feeling that the washer sat for some time with water in it. The reason this washer got de-commissioned was because the hot water solenoid was shot. I guess the former owner lived with this issue for a while, too.

Waiting for a call back from a parts place in Stanstead (the guy who wanted me to buy him out...) about the spin tube, tub seal, and a new drain hose. I'm in a bit of a race against time now - I was hoping to get this all done this week because I'll not be back down here in Ogden until late October!

More pictures of today's work coming soon...

 

[114jwh]

the spin tube, tub seal, and a new drain hose

If you can't get these parts from your local parts guy you might get them from Reliable Parts. Not sure if they have a branch near you but if not they'll ship.

It looks like they have the spin tube 383921 and tub seal 383727 if these are the correct P/N's.

 

[combo52]

Inglis Rebuilding

WOW Paul it looks like you are doing a great job.

 

The transmission oil level and quality can be checked easily without taking the transmission apart by inserting a three" piece of coat hanger wire through the vent hole with the transmission sitting level. You may have to rotate the drive pulley to get the dip-stick to go all the way to the bottom of the gear case as it will hit the top of the connecting rod depending on its position. The oil should be about 1/2" deep in this area and should be a nice light color, if it is murky, brown or white it most likely has water in it. If it looks OK but is just real low you can add transmission oil to increase the level and new oil added helps rejuvenate the oil oil, do this by putting the oil to be added into an empty Zoom-Spout bottle and filling into the vent hole.

 

You should try to be sure that the transmission is one of the Heavy Duty ones, You can tell by looking at the bottom of the case.

 

On the spin tubes sometimes the bottom flange will separate and all the clutch and brake parts fall off from the bottom, if this happens it means you need a new ST, which you almost always need anyway during a rebuild.

 

One thing I like to do when repainting the center post is after installing the top spin tube seal is to paint any exposed metal at the top of the center post right up to the rubber seal, as this area can corrode and cause a serious failure of the whole job.

 

Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress, John.

 

[pierreandreply4]

will be nice to see this inglis washer back in action

 

[turquoisedude]

Check your oil??

So today's Inglis-related job was to check the consistency of the oil in both transmissions...

 

[turquoisedude]

The Inglis oil is not as bad as I feared! I don't think water actually did get into this transmission. Bonus!

 

[turquoisedude]

The Whirlpool oil isn't so bad either. I am leaning toward using the Inglis transmission (assuming I can find the spin tube...) but it's nice to know that there's a spare nearby!!

 

[turquoisedude]

It's still a race against time, though... I am expecting the tub seal and hoses tomorrow. And I still want to replace the bearings, so I'm not out of the woods yet...

Oh, and opinions please: should I keep the original Inglis inner tub? The centre looks bad, but I am sure it could be fixed with enough patience and JB Weld...

 

[turquoisedude]

Out of time....

Well, alas, I lost the race against the clock on the Inglis project... I really, really, really wanted it done before I take off for Brazil 'cause I won't be back to Ogden until the 21st of October. C'est la vie, I guess.

Anyway, what I did get done was to fix a chip in the Inglis tub (I simply had to keep it, what can I say!)

 

[turquoisedude]

Now, that tub was in pretty bad shape. However, I took a chance and tried out a product I'd wondered about - it's called White-Coat and it's made by the same folks who make POR-15. The product is one of those two-part enamel paints intended for wet applications; sinks and tubs were mentioned in the list.

So I ordered a quart (and it got to me in two days unlike the spin bearings, tub seal and other parts from the local parts guy here in Stanstead... GRRRR!). It's a bit of a pain to work with, but holy moley, I think it worked well!

 

[turquoisedude]

And my last task was to give the tub ring a coat. It wasn't in bad shape, but it looks like new now!!

So, guess what I'll be rushing to complete in late October?? LOL

 

[pierreandreply4]

if things go well your inglis washer will look brand new like the first day it came of the factory

 

[combo52]

Re-coating Outer Tubs and Other Washer Parts Exposed to Wate

WOW it looks good Paul, I have been using two part epoxys for over 30 years for outer tubs etc and have had good results with them. I have only once used Por-15 and it seemed pretty good but I don't see any advantage to the Por-15, so I guess that I will keep using the Dura-Coat 2 part epoxy from Duron, their main plant is just two blocks from our warehouse in Beltsville. The nice thing about the 2-part epoxy is that it seems to keep forever, I have been using the same batch for almost 30 years.

 

[70series]

This is an entertaining restoration; thanks for sharing it with us. It was good luck that you had the donor washer with useable parts. I hope your results are successful.

Have a good one,
James

 

[philr]

Is that White Coat paint catalyzed?

 

[pierreandreply4]

looking forward to see a vid of this lovely inglis washer back in action doing a full cycle

 

[turquoisedude]

Progress report:

Well, the fellow who said he could get all the parts locally in Stanstead has vanished and is not returning my phone calls. Thank the powers that be that I did not go into business with this person!!
Fortunately yesterday I was able to track down a whole bunch of NOS parts from a parts place that Phil has used in the past. It's nowhere near Ogden (or Montreal) but it was worth the drive - I got a new spin bearing kit (with seals), a new spin tube and clutch assembly, a spare belt pulley, and a new agitator shaft!! I still need the tub seals and the drain outlet hose, but with any luck, I'll get those new bearing in early next week!
The weather is starting to turn cool now, so I'll probably have to continue the work inside. I am still hoping to repaint the cabinet, too.
Oy, still so much to do and time still seems to fly away on me...

 

[recyclewasher]

reply #41 inglis inner tub

you should keep it, the rusted metal lip not as bad as the two I rebuilt on the '78 lady kenmores. When I get some time to find the pics I took of the rebuild I'll post so you can view. but basically what I did was..

repair #1. machine an outer ring to fit snugly around the lip (like a very thick washer or bushing).
you have to grind off the rusty bits first- I used a dremel, and a de-ruster solution for the remaining rust spots on the tub, coated area with galvanizing compound and when dry used rusty metal primer after.
Trial fit the metal washer over the remaining lip so it fits as the next step is to first coat the outer lip and washer with JB weld and press the washer-bushing over the lip.
the metal washer I used was machined from a piece of heavy wall 316 stainless steel pipe I had as an end cut. File or Sand smooth when hardened

repair #2. machine an outer ring to fit snugly around the lip (like a very thick washer with a lid).
you have to grind off the rusty ring first leave the hole id intact( you will be using it as a template to fit a machined bushing from underneath the tub so you can weld the bushing onto the tub sheet metal-a fillet weld.

IMPORTANT!!! FOR OBVIOUS HEATH AND SAFTY REASONS THE WELDING MUST BE DONE OUTSIDE!! NOT IN THE GARAGE!! and MUST BE DONE WITH AN AIR SUPPLIED RESPIRATOR!!
no KIDDING on this One!!

I found out the HARD WAY that the porcelain coating on both the inner and OTHER sides of where you do the fillet weld must be completely REMOVED from the metal as when the metal gets hot in this area, the PORCELAIN liquefies and contaminates the weld puddle (I used tig welding) and you get INSTANT HOLE! and great difficulty in repairing the HOLE because of the contamination. and #2 the PORCELAIN FUMES not only STINKS up the room that your're in and Lingers for DAYS but the FUMES are extremely irritating and gives you a NASTY throat cough that lasts for WEEKS!
You guessed right when I had only cleaned the welding side...
I also used a different metal for the welding and a special tig rod as the metal pipe off cut was a piece of MONEL welded to a stainless steel washer and the 316 stainless washer was what was welded to the steel tub from the bottom. I also used a back purge on the inside of the tub when doing the outer fillet weld. For added
rustproofing I used JB weld on the inside from the Monel bushing over the gap and burn-through weld area on the inner tub.
and why I used MONEL, well it's a lot more resistant to clorine aka Bleach than stainless steel-no more rusting in this area. Also deburr the machined edges before installing on the tub so the new seal is not damaged

hope this helps..but your tub is worth saving from my end

 

[philr]

After I left Paul at home yesterday, I spotted the remains of another BD Inglis/Whirlpool washer that had been dismantled sitting on the sidewalk a few hundred feet away from Paul's home in Montreal. I called Paul and told him to look in my direction at his window and he joined me on the sidewalk in the next minute! We got a few parts (transmission, base plate and tub) from the pile in my car's trunk, then I backed-up on the one-way street to his garage and we got the parts in Paul's garage while people from the crowded neighborhood looked at us with a funny look!  When I left for the second time, I noticed that the pedestrians who looked at us a minute before seemed to enter in the house where the dismantled washer was sitting. Maybe it was theirs?!?

 

When I arrived at home, I noticed we forgot the motor and a hose in my car's trunk... Next time I see you Paul, I'll have to bring that back!

 

 

[turquoisedude]

Yes, that Inglis tub, tranny, and motor was a great score! I brought most of the stuff down to Ogden with me this week.

Today was a dismal day here, so I figured it would be a good chance to get my bearings... into the Inglis that is!

So, I had the original Inglis baseplate hanging around and since this was my first bearing job without a safety net (ie - having someone who knows what they are doing to guide me...) I figured I'd do a practice run on this.

 

[turquoisedude]

Those Inglis bearings were completely worn out! Quelle surprise...

 

[turquoisedude]

So, I felt brave enough to remove the bearings from the donor Whirlpool centre post.

 

[turquoisedude]

Yikes! They look as bad as the '66 bearings! Out with the old...

 

[turquoisedude]

And in with the new... The bearing installation tool was a little daunting at first, but fortunately the bearing and seal kit that I scored last week had a set of very good directions as to how to do this (the instructions in my Whirlpool/Kenmore RepairMaster were kinda vague...)

 

[turquoisedude]

And... It worked! The new upper bearing is shown here (it still needs some lubrication and the seal) but I did it!

With any luck tomorrow, I'll have the transmission put back together and, if the phantom repair guy in Stanstead comes through with the tub seal, I'll have the machine more or less back together!

Hubby misses all the fun stuff when he's away on a business trip... LOL

 

[DADoES]

 
Yay!