Almost bone dry!
These machines should leave maybe 1/4" of water in the sump and by virtue of the design of the wash arm support, you really cannot see the water because the sump is pretty well obscured by the support itself.
The usual reason for poor draining, as mentioned above is some sort of blockage or a kink in the drain hose. Also, if you installed it with a corrugated drain hose, that hose will severely restrict the free flow of water out of the machine in the time allotted for it to drain.
Another reason is that there may be something stuck in the actual drain solenoid which is located in the center of the front cross member behind the lower panel. You may want to disconnect it and make sure nothing is blocking that line.
This would be a good time to actually replace the drain line from the pump to the solenoid. You can use standard 5/8" automotive heater hose which will fit perfectly. Use the same thing if you feel like replacing the line from the valve to your sink drain.
If you want to test the action and pressure from the machine to rule it all out and maybe point you to the line to the sink, connect a hose from the outlet of the drain valve to empty into a 5 gallon bucket and run a rinse and hold and take note how high the machine fills and the see if there is strong pressure and flow when it drains into the bucket. If there is, then explore the hose to the sink. Hold that hose when it goes to drain because it will fly out of the bucket if you don't.
Since this machine is as old as it is, the drain impeller is probably so worn down that it can no longer pump the water out with the same volume and velocity it had when it was new. That was actually a common problem even when the machines were a few years old. So I would suggest that you inspect its condition and replace it if need be. You DO NOT have to take it out of the machine to inspect it.
Remove the 4 screws that hold the wash arm support in place. The remove the wash impeller by removing the Phillips head screw in the center and note the position of the spring washers under the screw. They should be reinstalled with the curve facing up. Then remove the thick washer with the hollow underneath. Remove the keyed washer and then gently pry the wash impeller up. Be mindful of any shim washers that are underneath it and do not lose any.
Once the wash impeller is removed, you will see a smaller cover with 4 screws holding it in place. Remove them and lift off the cover. Below it will be the drain impeller. There are 4 straight vanes on it and they should be extend out top the end of that impeller and should be approx. 1/4 inch high. If they are worn or damaged, you will need to replace it.
Now, that impeller forms the top half of the shaft seal. The seal kit includes both the drain impeller and the lower portion of the seal that goes into the bottom of the pump housing. Along with some more shim washers.
Is strongly suggest that you download the service manual from the Ephemera files on this site for a more detailed instruction on doing the replacement.
Upon reading them, you may get worried about how many shim washers to use. The rule of thumb is to replace them(if you take them out) in the exact same quantity and position that you found them when disassembling it. They will look almost identical but they vary in thickness as well as diameter so be careful.
I hope this helps.
Keep us posted.
