Speed Queen TC5 Anniversary and sudsing issue.

[combo52]

This is a problem that sometimes defies a solution, just clamp the hose into the standpipe. I had to do this 30 years ago on my GE combo that’s in my kitchen.

If you use a drain line check valve you will not have problems with water, either siphoning out of the machine or sucking back from the drainage system When the machine is agitating in the pumps running in the reverse direction.

 

[william8]

Ok, I now understand what you meant by extension hose, and I saw the SQ webpage that you linked to Why I doubt it is the corrugations , but as I read SQ TC5 has too fast a discharge...query SQ if the rubber has also an extension you can adapt to. Thanks for the link.

It may not be the corrugations, I was theorizing that it causes more turbulence than a smooth hose would. I know the pump is strong, but by the time it suds, the water is done, you can hear it just pumping air (and suds on rare occasions).

As far as adapters, all you would really need is a plug with a bigger hole. But since I also have HVAC and water softener in the same drain, the plug just won't work.

 

[william8]

This is a problem that sometimes defies a solution, just clamp the hose into the standpipe. I had to do this 30 years ago on my GE combo that’s in my kitchen.

If you use a drain line check valve you will not have problems with water, either siphoning out of the machine or sucking back from the drainage system When the machine is agitating in the pumps running in the reverse direction.

Against code, no air gap. And where would I put the HVAC and softener drain hoses? I think we discussed this before.

https://codes.iccsafe.org/s/MIPC201...18P2-Ch04-Sec406.2#MIPC2018P2_Ch08_Sec802.4.3

That looks like a dishwasher drain under a sink?

 

[tuesdak]

two traps in a row is against code.

Noted. I suggested it differently the second time. (Not in a row.) Each standpipe has it's own trap to the main line. One would have to come away from the wall in a 3D manor with the T for the trap on the first stand pipe and then just extend the other to the left. Yeah, not a lot of room to work with.

From the picture: is there room to put a coupler here if this one is cut off? The last repair didn't leave you much to work with.

just clamp the hose into the standpipe.

I wonder if a Studor vent, air admittance valve, would help the code concern with this? Although there is one installed in the OP's setup already that explains the different color new pipe section. It's on the wrong side of the trap for what I am suggesting for using your idea.

 

[william8]

Noted. I suggested it differently the second time. (Not in a row.) Each standpipe has it's own trap to the main line. One would have to come away from the wall in a 3D manor with the T for the trap on the first stand pipe and then just extend the other to the left. Yeah, not a lot of room to work with.

From the picture: is there room to put a coupler here if this one is cut off? The last repair didn't leave you much to work with.

View attachment 316594



I wonder if a Studor vent, air admittance valve, would help the code concern with this? Although there is one installed in the OP's setup already that explains the different color new pipe section. It's on the wrong side of the trap for what I am suggesting for using your idea.

Here's a closeup. There's about one inch. But another stand pipe won't help anyways, because the hose will not fit in the plug, I've tried to explain that many times, even gave links above to the extension kit.
And that wasn't a repair, there was about 2.5" of pipe between the original fittings. I cut it in the middle, and added the AAV (Air admittance valve or studor). As you can see, that left less that 1/8" on each side. No pipe was removed. You can see missing paint on the wall where the stand pipe used to sit, left of the hot water pipe. There never was much pipe, it's just for the washer and kitchen sink. Sorry for the long explanation, trying to make it clear.

I think I see what you mean about the T, but you can't use a T on a drain, and one outlet would point at the wall if I understand you right. Even if a T and trap would fit (it won't, it's about 1.5" from the wall), when the water is draining, it would go straight through the T to the other trap, it's not going to turn, path of least resistance. You'd need something like a wye, and even then I've never seen that done, not sure it would work.

The AAV will not help with a "direct" connection, it's not an air gap, and it HAS to be installed after the trap. And direct connections are against code. That ain't happening.