KDS-58C questions
- Thread starter barcoboy
- Start date
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1st rapid advance timer
Well I'm gonna cross hairs here regarding this and explain why I said KDS16. Yes, I was aware of the KDS14 & KDS15. BUT, those machines still had exposed timer dials at the lower base of the cabinet where one could reach, touch, grab, and turn the timer dial themselves (I did). Beginning with the KDS16 series, all timer dials were completely concealed and non-accessable easily by the user. So to me, that was the first TRUE rapid advance timer. !!!!!
Well I'm gonna cross hairs here regarding this and explain why I said KDS16. Yes, I was aware of the KDS14 & KDS15. BUT, those machines still had exposed timer dials at the lower base of the cabinet where one could reach, touch, grab, and turn the timer dial themselves (I did). Beginning with the KDS16 series, all timer dials were completely concealed and non-accessable easily by the user. So to me, that was the first TRUE rapid advance timer. !!!!!
recyclewasher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2012
- Messages
- 133
just what the Nurse ordered..
Thanks a million for the detailed frame pics Barco, especially the whole bottom pic plus the front pic in the other post. The kds19 brackets are nothing like what you have-was looking at electrical 'strut' U channel with the slots as a frame re-inforcer.
I was distracted past couple days on youtube downloading 60's 70's 80s music esp the re-mastered ones in 1080p-big difference in quality.
So today after removing both side frames and bottom cross piece to take to a friends hydraulic shop press to straighten the bent sections, I also checked the dooor hinges for bending as well-(still straight) and wondered aloud that if the hinges were bent I could place a cardboard sheet on top and bottom of flat part of hinge to protect plastic coating from tearing while placing two flat 3/4" steel flats on top and bottom cardboard sheets while under manual hydraulic press. I know way back when Eastwood Co used to stock USA and Europe shop items they had a plasti-dip solution in a can that you dipped your tool handle ends in to leave a plastic or rubberdised grip and came in different colours like black blue red green yellow -not sure about white
Thanks a million for the detailed frame pics Barco, especially the whole bottom pic plus the front pic in the other post. The kds19 brackets are nothing like what you have-was looking at electrical 'strut' U channel with the slots as a frame re-inforcer.
I was distracted past couple days on youtube downloading 60's 70's 80s music esp the re-mastered ones in 1080p-big difference in quality.
So today after removing both side frames and bottom cross piece to take to a friends hydraulic shop press to straighten the bent sections, I also checked the dooor hinges for bending as well-(still straight) and wondered aloud that if the hinges were bent I could place a cardboard sheet on top and bottom of flat part of hinge to protect plastic coating from tearing while placing two flat 3/4" steel flats on top and bottom cardboard sheets while under manual hydraulic press. I know way back when Eastwood Co used to stock USA and Europe shop items they had a plasti-dip solution in a can that you dipped your tool handle ends in to leave a plastic or rubberdised grip and came in different colours like black blue red green yellow -not sure about white
I wondered the same thing recyclewasher about straightening the hinges. The only thing I thought is that perhaps once they had been bent once, they might be easier bent the second time as the metal might be weaker in the area of the bend. Something else I wondered about the hinges is that there is no place in the service manual describing how to remove or replace them... at least not that I've seen, and I've been through it a few times.
My next project is changing the o-rings in the detergent dispenser. Last night I was able to get the cotter pins out and disassemble the cover mechanisms without having to take the whole dispenser out of the door. While doing so, I noticed that one of the wire connectors going to the left bimetal was partially cooked... the plastic was all black and brittle, and the connector itself was also blackened. It must have got hot at some point, even though both dispensers worked each time I tried them. So I will have to change that as well I guess.
My next project is changing the o-rings in the detergent dispenser. Last night I was able to get the cotter pins out and disassemble the cover mechanisms without having to take the whole dispenser out of the door. While doing so, I noticed that one of the wire connectors going to the left bimetal was partially cooked... the plastic was all black and brittle, and the connector itself was also blackened. It must have got hot at some point, even though both dispensers worked each time I tried them. So I will have to change that as well I guess.
rjpatterson
New member
KDS-58 Door bottom gasket
Re: KDS-58C, SN 99-438222, Spec 26992
The door bottom gasket (#4161510) and retainer (#4161509) of this 43 year old machine are failing, resulting in a leak at the door. The noted parts are not available from the better KitchenAid part suppliers such as Repair Clinic, the noted parts are indicated as "unavailable".
Although the gasket and retainer were long functional on this little used KDS-58C, this has to be a common problem. The original parts would be the preferred repair, but there have to be various standard seals that will be functional replacements.
A closed cell foam, or hollow, self adhesive strip of a suitable shape and size could be suitable. The question is which one(s) are suitable?
Rather than taking a trial and error approach, I am hoping other owners of this and similar Hobart KitchenAid Superba dishwashers will comment on their own door bottom edge gasket repairs.
Thank you!
Re: KDS-58C, SN 99-438222, Spec 26992
The door bottom gasket (#4161510) and retainer (#4161509) of this 43 year old machine are failing, resulting in a leak at the door. The noted parts are not available from the better KitchenAid part suppliers such as Repair Clinic, the noted parts are indicated as "unavailable".
Although the gasket and retainer were long functional on this little used KDS-58C, this has to be a common problem. The original parts would be the preferred repair, but there have to be various standard seals that will be functional replacements.
A closed cell foam, or hollow, self adhesive strip of a suitable shape and size could be suitable. The question is which one(s) are suitable?
Rather than taking a trial and error approach, I am hoping other owners of this and similar Hobart KitchenAid Superba dishwashers will comment on their own door bottom edge gasket repairs.
Thank you!
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