strongenough78
Well-known member
Very nice machine! I wouldn't mind having one like that myself. And I've never had a DD Kenmore or Whirlpool damage any of my clothes.
Kenmore 80 Series
- Thread starter frapdoodle
- Start date
Help Support :
frapdoodle:
The trim around your console is light and there are colored indicators in the trim. Your ATC has 3 selections instead of one "AUTO" selection, 1992 is correct for this machine. Also notice my 70 series and Gordons 70 series. The trim around mine is dark and I only have 4 temp settings. My machine is of an older model.
The trim around your console is light and there are colored indicators in the trim. Your ATC has 3 selections instead of one "AUTO" selection, 1992 is correct for this machine. Also notice my 70 series and Gordons 70 series. The trim around mine is dark and I only have 4 temp settings. My machine is of an older model.
Melvin -
Sears did something different with the 1986 DDs that they hadn't done in about 12 years --- they differentiated the consoles again between their better selling series. Not as dramatically as had been in the 1970s when almost every model had its own console, but the 60 and 70 series machines had monotone black panels, whereas the 80 and 90 series models had the brushed aluminum accent trim which separated the timer bezel area from the rest of the panel. This was present on the all-new 1986 line, and on the 1988 versions, which were almost identical to the '86s. All or most of the few models introduced in 1987 and after 1988 to 1992 were given the same cosmetic treatment.
What this did, and I presume its why Sears did it, is prevent buyers from getting a near TOL washer, and a MOL or 60 series (for example) dryer to go with it, or vice versa, at least without having consoles that obviously don't belong together. Previously a buyer could have bought the entry level black panel 60-series dryer and a near TOL washer and the panels would have matched perfectly. I did that in fact when I got my sister her set.
In the 1986 configuration, the 60 dryer would have had an all black console, and the 80-series washer would be similar in frame, but have the large and noticeable silver trim. I am thinking that Sears wanted to "encourage" buyers to get both of the more pricey appliances instead of just one.
In 1992 this changed, and all models having a metal console got the silver trim, even the 60 series. People must have complained...
Gordon
Sears did something different with the 1986 DDs that they hadn't done in about 12 years --- they differentiated the consoles again between their better selling series. Not as dramatically as had been in the 1970s when almost every model had its own console, but the 60 and 70 series machines had monotone black panels, whereas the 80 and 90 series models had the brushed aluminum accent trim which separated the timer bezel area from the rest of the panel. This was present on the all-new 1986 line, and on the 1988 versions, which were almost identical to the '86s. All or most of the few models introduced in 1987 and after 1988 to 1992 were given the same cosmetic treatment.
What this did, and I presume its why Sears did it, is prevent buyers from getting a near TOL washer, and a MOL or 60 series (for example) dryer to go with it, or vice versa, at least without having consoles that obviously don't belong together. Previously a buyer could have bought the entry level black panel 60-series dryer and a near TOL washer and the panels would have matched perfectly. I did that in fact when I got my sister her set.
In the 1986 configuration, the 60 dryer would have had an all black console, and the 80-series washer would be similar in frame, but have the large and noticeable silver trim. I am thinking that Sears wanted to "encourage" buyers to get both of the more pricey appliances instead of just one.
In 1992 this changed, and all models having a metal console got the silver trim, even the 60 series. People must have complained...
Gordon
Melvin -
I don't know the answer to that question. The resource saver DDs were rare overall I think, and probably even more so in Charlotte. Nobody has laundry tubs.
What's the model number of your current machine? I can take the digits from that and fenagle with some permutations of numbers and see if I can come up with anything.
The numbering scheme with belt-drives doesn't turn up any DD suds models in the 1980s or early 90s. As an example, 110.82372110 was a non-suds, and a 110.83372110 is the suds version. If the same convention was used in DDs, the suds/resource savers would have a 3 in the second digit right of the decimal. There are none like that in my book from the 1980s to 1991/2, but the non-suds DD models have model numbers of the same format as BDs. I didn't find any on Sears' site using the 110.93* search feature either. Sears probably changed the model number scheme for these.
Gordon
I don't know the answer to that question. The resource saver DDs were rare overall I think, and probably even more so in Charlotte. Nobody has laundry tubs.
What's the model number of your current machine? I can take the digits from that and fenagle with some permutations of numbers and see if I can come up with anything.
The numbering scheme with belt-drives doesn't turn up any DD suds models in the 1980s or early 90s. As an example, 110.82372110 was a non-suds, and a 110.83372110 is the suds version. If the same convention was used in DDs, the suds/resource savers would have a 3 in the second digit right of the decimal. There are none like that in my book from the 1980s to 1991/2, but the non-suds DD models have model numbers of the same format as BDs. I didn't find any on Sears' site using the 110.93* search feature either. Sears probably changed the model number scheme for these.
Gordon
DD Washers With built-in Suds-Savers
These did not appear till the mid 1990s. Before this time and starting in the mid 1980s when the change over to DD washers was almost complete WP{ and Sears tried an add on mechanical Suds-Saver attachment that could be used on any DD washer after about 1985. There was a space on the timer dial between two off periods where you could get the washer to dry agitate and pull the saved suds water back into the washer, even the LKM limited addition had a little * on the control panel so you could do this. Unfortunately these add on SSs didn't work reliably and after many problems, floods etc they were discontinued.
Some time in the early 1990s both sears and WP introduced one washer model that had a real built-in Suds-saver. This SS washer used the same Two Way valve that the BD machines had used since 1948 making this part the only significant part that was used on both the DD and BD washers. These new SS washers were called water saver machines by Sears as they allowed you to save either the wash OR rinse water in the amount of 16 or 23 gallons via a selector knob on the control panel.
WP called their washer just a Suds-Miser and only allowed you to save the wash water like earlier Suds-saver machines.
These new machines were sold for around 10 years or so and show up fairly in areas of the country where SS were were very popular back in the heyday of SS washers. These new machines were NOT called Resource Savers, this name was used by WP{ and KM for a special DD washer that did a unique series of either 5 or 6 separate recirculated spray rinses while the machine was spinning at full speed in stead of just the usual one deep rinse.
The RSSer was very effective and well liked by our customers, we sold around a hundred of them. The problem was that it got the same good Energy Star rating as the new Calypso and cost 1/2 as much as wasn't all computerized so customers were quick to buy the RSSer rater than and expensive new type of washer.
These did not appear till the mid 1990s. Before this time and starting in the mid 1980s when the change over to DD washers was almost complete WP{ and Sears tried an add on mechanical Suds-Saver attachment that could be used on any DD washer after about 1985. There was a space on the timer dial between two off periods where you could get the washer to dry agitate and pull the saved suds water back into the washer, even the LKM limited addition had a little * on the control panel so you could do this. Unfortunately these add on SSs didn't work reliably and after many problems, floods etc they were discontinued.
Some time in the early 1990s both sears and WP introduced one washer model that had a real built-in Suds-saver. This SS washer used the same Two Way valve that the BD machines had used since 1948 making this part the only significant part that was used on both the DD and BD washers. These new SS washers were called water saver machines by Sears as they allowed you to save either the wash OR rinse water in the amount of 16 or 23 gallons via a selector knob on the control panel.
WP called their washer just a Suds-Miser and only allowed you to save the wash water like earlier Suds-saver machines.
These new machines were sold for around 10 years or so and show up fairly in areas of the country where SS were were very popular back in the heyday of SS washers. These new machines were NOT called Resource Savers, this name was used by WP{ and KM for a special DD washer that did a unique series of either 5 or 6 separate recirculated spray rinses while the machine was spinning at full speed in stead of just the usual one deep rinse.
The RSSer was very effective and well liked by our customers, we sold around a hundred of them. The problem was that it got the same good Energy Star rating as the new Calypso and cost 1/2 as much as wasn't all computerized so customers were quick to buy the RSSer rater than and expensive new type of washer.
mrb627
Well-known member
Wash Time
I do like it when the Wash Time in Minutes is printed on the timer dial.
Malcolm
I do like it when the Wash Time in Minutes is printed on the timer dial.
Malcolm
Gordon
110.82979100 This machine was one in a series of 4 that come in to my local resource shop. On going there for a Whirlpool Duet sport FL to modify I saw the machine here on the outside of the building. There were 3 other identical Kenmore water miser DD's on the showroom floor. 2 70 series and 1 80 series. On these 3 machines the suds saver hardware had been removed already. On the machine here everything was still intact, so I took it with me. In general I don't bother with DD machines anymore, but this one is a bit different.
Now the 90 series DD is pretty crowded timerwise. Would there even be enough room on the timer cam for such a feature? Also, some of these earilier 90 series DD machines have an out of balance safety switch on them. By what year, or which models did this feature become discontiunued? In my experience, I have seen this switch, and I have had at least 2 machines to which had this feature and one machine to which did not, BUT the switch was on the electrical diagram of the machine, however there was no section on the wiring harness for the switch. Also, on these 90 series machines, they also had the ATC feature as "AUTO". The machines with the out of balance switch had white clothes baskets and the other machine with the switch on the diagram had a speckled basket.
110.82979100 This machine was one in a series of 4 that come in to my local resource shop. On going there for a Whirlpool Duet sport FL to modify I saw the machine here on the outside of the building. There were 3 other identical Kenmore water miser DD's on the showroom floor. 2 70 series and 1 80 series. On these 3 machines the suds saver hardware had been removed already. On the machine here everything was still intact, so I took it with me. In general I don't bother with DD machines anymore, but this one is a bit different.
Now the 90 series DD is pretty crowded timerwise. Would there even be enough room on the timer cam for such a feature? Also, some of these earilier 90 series DD machines have an out of balance safety switch on them. By what year, or which models did this feature become discontiunued? In my experience, I have seen this switch, and I have had at least 2 machines to which had this feature and one machine to which did not, BUT the switch was on the electrical diagram of the machine, however there was no section on the wiring harness for the switch. Also, on these 90 series machines, they also had the ATC feature as "AUTO". The machines with the out of balance switch had white clothes baskets and the other machine with the switch on the diagram had a speckled basket.
Melvin,
Cool information and pictures!
That model is listed in the WP catalog -- Interesting that it has a conventional model number. I wondered what the xxx791 was all about, as that's pretty high number. Usually they are 701, 711, 721, 731, 741, maybe up to 751. The 791 must have set it apart.
If four of these came in at once to the shop, they may have all come from the same place? Four late 80s DDs is one thing, but four suds models, that seems a bit unusual, and interesting, at least to me! Also interesting that the suds functions had been deactivated in the other three machines. You'd think in an area where these machines have been popular in the past, that their 'green' aspects would make the machines easy to sell fully functional. Who knows, maybe they were failing in the suds area?
On the timer for the 90, it doesn't look like your machine has much additional space used for the suds. As John said, the giant off in between pre-wash and Normal has that dry agitate section, and that is there on many (maybe all?) of the 4-cycle timers of this era. The other two suds return sections look like simple highlights of what is otherwise the drain portions, which are unmarked in non-suds models. There could be a couple extra 'clicks' used, I don't know. In the 90 series of the late 80s and early 90s, or even my 92 70-series and Chance's 80, there may not be any spare room in that timer. When the second rinse is active, all the offs are one click wide and there appears to be no spare space.
The later 90 series machines had very uncluttered timers, with just one giant cycle - it has a pre-soak in front, followed by an agitate period for a pre-wash, the main cycle, and a second rinse. All the variations were done via rotary switches for speeds, activation of the second rinse, etc. There would probably be plenty of room in this version for a suds return.
My '93 has the top layer of holes in the basket too. I think these went on into the mid-90s. Unlike with a BD, I can't say when they changed, as I have never followed these with the level of interest that I have in BDs. I do know that the original DDs, even the first editions of the 3.0 cu. ft. basket, the perfs resembled belt-drives, with holes only half-way or 2/3 the way up the basket wall.
I would venture to say that the 70-series DDs you saw with straight vane agitators may have been conversions if they were 3.0 baskets. Kenmore had been putting DAs in lesser models by this time and the DA was a 70-series selling feature. There was a few 60-series machines with a straight vane though, and they looked very much like, if not identical, to the 70s. The 1992 60 even used a 70 series timer, but only the Perm Press and Normal were active - the rest were all non-wired dead cycles. Seems like a waste but they didn't have to design another new timer.
I'm glad you found this interesting machine Melvin.
Gordon
Cool information and pictures!
That model is listed in the WP catalog -- Interesting that it has a conventional model number. I wondered what the xxx791 was all about, as that's pretty high number. Usually they are 701, 711, 721, 731, 741, maybe up to 751. The 791 must have set it apart.
If four of these came in at once to the shop, they may have all come from the same place? Four late 80s DDs is one thing, but four suds models, that seems a bit unusual, and interesting, at least to me! Also interesting that the suds functions had been deactivated in the other three machines. You'd think in an area where these machines have been popular in the past, that their 'green' aspects would make the machines easy to sell fully functional. Who knows, maybe they were failing in the suds area?
On the timer for the 90, it doesn't look like your machine has much additional space used for the suds. As John said, the giant off in between pre-wash and Normal has that dry agitate section, and that is there on many (maybe all?) of the 4-cycle timers of this era. The other two suds return sections look like simple highlights of what is otherwise the drain portions, which are unmarked in non-suds models. There could be a couple extra 'clicks' used, I don't know. In the 90 series of the late 80s and early 90s, or even my 92 70-series and Chance's 80, there may not be any spare room in that timer. When the second rinse is active, all the offs are one click wide and there appears to be no spare space.
The later 90 series machines had very uncluttered timers, with just one giant cycle - it has a pre-soak in front, followed by an agitate period for a pre-wash, the main cycle, and a second rinse. All the variations were done via rotary switches for speeds, activation of the second rinse, etc. There would probably be plenty of room in this version for a suds return.
My '93 has the top layer of holes in the basket too. I think these went on into the mid-90s. Unlike with a BD, I can't say when they changed, as I have never followed these with the level of interest that I have in BDs. I do know that the original DDs, even the first editions of the 3.0 cu. ft. basket, the perfs resembled belt-drives, with holes only half-way or 2/3 the way up the basket wall.
I would venture to say that the 70-series DDs you saw with straight vane agitators may have been conversions if they were 3.0 baskets. Kenmore had been putting DAs in lesser models by this time and the DA was a 70-series selling feature. There was a few 60-series machines with a straight vane though, and they looked very much like, if not identical, to the 70s. The 1992 60 even used a 70 series timer, but only the Perm Press and Normal were active - the rest were all non-wired dead cycles. Seems like a waste but they didn't have to design another new timer.
I'm glad you found this interesting machine Melvin.
Gordon
autowasherfreak
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2008
- Messages
- 3,637
I had a TOL Kenmore in the early 90's that had dispensers for detergent, bleach, and fabric softener. I had it for about 5 years never had any problems at all with damaged clothes.
The owner of the shop disabled the sud-saver feature in the other 3 machines when he took them in and got them working to be sold. I asked him why and he was saying something to the effect of that when he did try and sell the unmodified models, customers would return them because they did not like them. I asked him for the parts and he had already thrown them out. DD Whirlpools and Kenmores sell like hot cakes in my area.
The machine that I have now was the last remaining one and it was still outside, broken and unmodified. I bought it then and there, as I was sure it would end up like the other 3. There was nothing really wrong with it, just a motor with failed bearings, otherwise it is really clean! Up until ~1993, there was a Sears store not far from me, they had a lot of these type of machines.
I do remember the 90 series machines having several different revisions. Some of the more interesting ones even had a light over the timer dial! I have a relative that did get one of these machines some time around 1992-1993. The second Rinse option was a dial on the console "YES" or "NO". The ATC had 3 options like the 80 series machines, it also had the silver trim with the color indicators. At one point the dispenser system was eliminated from the 90 series machines, and the speed selections were put as a dial on the console. This would have certainly freed up space on the timer. Perhaps these changes were to further support the idea that the higher-end models were better. Being TOL was the Lady Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care Electronic set. As in the lower machines have similar fuctionality, but the best of the best is further distingushed by minute changes to looks, with 1 or 2 new, pointless features thrown in.
Most of the 60 series machines that I have seen from this time period were 24" machines with straight vane agitators. I have never seen a 60 series machine with a DA, however I have not seen very many 60 series machines. Perhaps Sears didn't sell many of them?
The machine that I have now was the last remaining one and it was still outside, broken and unmodified. I bought it then and there, as I was sure it would end up like the other 3. There was nothing really wrong with it, just a motor with failed bearings, otherwise it is really clean! Up until ~1993, there was a Sears store not far from me, they had a lot of these type of machines.
I do remember the 90 series machines having several different revisions. Some of the more interesting ones even had a light over the timer dial! I have a relative that did get one of these machines some time around 1992-1993. The second Rinse option was a dial on the console "YES" or "NO". The ATC had 3 options like the 80 series machines, it also had the silver trim with the color indicators. At one point the dispenser system was eliminated from the 90 series machines, and the speed selections were put as a dial on the console. This would have certainly freed up space on the timer. Perhaps these changes were to further support the idea that the higher-end models were better. Being TOL was the Lady Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care Electronic set. As in the lower machines have similar fuctionality, but the best of the best is further distingushed by minute changes to looks, with 1 or 2 new, pointless features thrown in.
Most of the 60 series machines that I have seen from this time period were 24" machines with straight vane agitators. I have never seen a 60 series machine with a DA, however I have not seen very many 60 series machines. Perhaps Sears didn't sell many of them?
Melvin -
60-series machines, in large cap. belt-drive form, seemed to sell better in tough economic climates. Sears had three different models in 1981/1983 which were available simultaneously. I have seen a number of them, and have a couple today. When things improved in late 1983, they were down to one (which was a DA model), then it was gone by early '85.
There was a DD 60 in the late 80s, and another in the early 90s - one of those had a DA in one of its revised versions. I've never seen any of them come up in Craigslist ads. Its not like I look for them, but having seen many many C/L ad, it seems everything is 70 and 80 series. I like weird models...if I came across a '88 - '92 DD 3.0 model, I'd get it just to have.
They probably would have sold a few of that caliber in the last few tight years, but what I think Sears sold a lot of was the 400 and 500 series. These approximate or may be a bit nicer than the 60 series of years past.
G
60-series machines, in large cap. belt-drive form, seemed to sell better in tough economic climates. Sears had three different models in 1981/1983 which were available simultaneously. I have seen a number of them, and have a couple today. When things improved in late 1983, they were down to one (which was a DA model), then it was gone by early '85.
There was a DD 60 in the late 80s, and another in the early 90s - one of those had a DA in one of its revised versions. I've never seen any of them come up in Craigslist ads. Its not like I look for them, but having seen many many C/L ad, it seems everything is 70 and 80 series. I like weird models...if I came across a '88 - '92 DD 3.0 model, I'd get it just to have.
They probably would have sold a few of that caliber in the last few tight years, but what I think Sears sold a lot of was the 400 and 500 series. These approximate or may be a bit nicer than the 60 series of years past.
G
Shredmore - help?
Maybe you guys can help... I actually have one of those Series 80 Kenmore Ultimate Fabric Care machines, and this month it earned the monikker "Shredmore", as it ruined one of my favorite blouses. I had found a white clothing article wedged underneath one of the agitator fins when I was moving clothes from the washer to the drier, and a few days later when I was hanging up clothes in the closet (my husband had temporarily hung the shirts and blouses on a door knob) I discovered the damage that was done.
I've had other articles of clothes develop small holes in them over the two years I've owned this machine, but I had always assumed it was due to a flaw in the fabric being aggravated by normal wear and tear.
We never had any problems for two years with the front-loader in our last rental house, and I don't remember any problems with the top-loader we inherited with the house we owned for four years before that. Before that was coin-op machines that were often broken, and I think we had more problem with clothes not getting clean or not getting dry than with excessive wear/tearing/holes. This problem seems to be specific to this machine.
Anyway, I know this isn't a "how to wash your clothes" site but an "I love old laundry machines" site, but maybe you can shed some light on the particulars of my machine and perhaps I can figure out how to use it differently so as not to wreck any more clothes. I've searched for burrs or sharp edges, and in view of how I found that shirt under the agitator fin, I think it's a design issue possibly combined with overloading the washer.
So:
This is a model 110-82983800, serial #C91410790. From the comments above, I see that depending on exactly when the machine was made, there may be different agitator and/or spin speeds not only per cycle, but per where the machine is within the cycle. I've been to Sears Parts Direct and can't find a manual there. Can anyone tell me any of the specifications of my machine? What speeds at what parts of what cycles, cu ft capacity, direct drive vs belt drive, etc? As well as any tricks to prevent clothes from getting trapped under the agitator fins?
This is my first time posting, so I'm going to give it a try to post some photos of the machine and of the type of damage.
Thanks for any help and any information!
Maybe you guys can help... I actually have one of those Series 80 Kenmore Ultimate Fabric Care machines, and this month it earned the monikker "Shredmore", as it ruined one of my favorite blouses. I had found a white clothing article wedged underneath one of the agitator fins when I was moving clothes from the washer to the drier, and a few days later when I was hanging up clothes in the closet (my husband had temporarily hung the shirts and blouses on a door knob) I discovered the damage that was done.
I've had other articles of clothes develop small holes in them over the two years I've owned this machine, but I had always assumed it was due to a flaw in the fabric being aggravated by normal wear and tear.
We never had any problems for two years with the front-loader in our last rental house, and I don't remember any problems with the top-loader we inherited with the house we owned for four years before that. Before that was coin-op machines that were often broken, and I think we had more problem with clothes not getting clean or not getting dry than with excessive wear/tearing/holes. This problem seems to be specific to this machine.
Anyway, I know this isn't a "how to wash your clothes" site but an "I love old laundry machines" site, but maybe you can shed some light on the particulars of my machine and perhaps I can figure out how to use it differently so as not to wreck any more clothes. I've searched for burrs or sharp edges, and in view of how I found that shirt under the agitator fin, I think it's a design issue possibly combined with overloading the washer.
So:
This is a model 110-82983800, serial #C91410790. From the comments above, I see that depending on exactly when the machine was made, there may be different agitator and/or spin speeds not only per cycle, but per where the machine is within the cycle. I've been to Sears Parts Direct and can't find a manual there. Can anyone tell me any of the specifications of my machine? What speeds at what parts of what cycles, cu ft capacity, direct drive vs belt drive, etc? As well as any tricks to prevent clothes from getting trapped under the agitator fins?
This is my first time posting, so I'm going to give it a try to post some photos of the machine and of the type of damage.
Thanks for any help and any information!
Rebeccah, I'm the one who coined the phrase shredmore. Gee, lemme say this, that damage looks like some of the damage I experienced. I too started noticing sight little holes in garments not too soon after I bough the machine. Was acceptable, attributed to normal wear and tear, although they were usually undergarments. But when I sttarted noticing what had been done to about 4 sweaters over time (including a beautiful heavy cotton sweater I washed all by itself and on medium or 3/4 water level abnd it was ruined on delicate) I knew it was not me, but the machine. Two neighbors had similar issues with the machine like you have. My solution, wash everything on knit. It's totally unpredictable as to when something will end up under the fins like it did with this garment. It happend to me, sometimes resulting in tears and other times not. But tihs is wht I learned. I used the knit cycle about 90% of the time. Also, when using knit cycle, only have the wash basket about 3/4 full. Otherwise, yhou won't get a relatively decent rollover for fabrics to get clean in the 8 minutes of that wash phase. I used that cycle for bed linens, men's cotton undergarments, cotton sox, and slack, dress shirts, and golft/knit type shirts. The only time I used cotton/sturdy was for towels and I only put it on the equjivalent of your "normal" setting on the cotton/sturdy cycle. I had friends who had gone from a Kenore purchased in 1977 to one similar to this--well, a direct drive kenmore with the short, fast agitation stroke. They complained to me that their new washer was extremely rough on towels. I asked them what cycle and how long were they setting the time for the wash phase? Their reply Heavy Dutyt (the equivalent of your cotton/sturdy) and 14 minutes. I told them to use the same cycle, don't put as many towels in the machine as before, and set it for only 6 minutes (the equivalent of your "normal" soil level). They then noticed their towels weren't wearing out quite as fast. So sadly I say, and unfortunately, welcome to my world. Oh, and when you do wash a load of towels and such, only put about 1/2 to 3/4 of the wash basket full f garments and always use the highest water legvel. And I see this as a huge waste of water peronally. See folk, I"m not crazy!!!!
Thanks, appnut.
We've been mostly using the permanent press cycle, but I don't know specifically what cycle was used for this blouse. And I pretty much always use the highest water setting, except sometimes when I have a really small load of one or two items.
I've been thinking about getting a used Speed Queen top loader and adjusting the fill level. One thing about the Speed Queens is you can get the user manual online, and it tells you: Knit cycle has slow agitator speed and fast spin, Permanent Press cycle has fast agitator and slow spin, Normal has fast agitator and spin unless you have the TOL model and override with the fabric selector knob, Delicates has slow agitator and slow spin. Do you have any similar information for my Kenmore?
My husband does more laundry than I do these days, so whatever I decide to try, I have to make sure he goes along with the program. The number 1 item is to be sure we don't overload.
Again, thanks for your input.
Rebeccah
We've been mostly using the permanent press cycle, but I don't know specifically what cycle was used for this blouse. And I pretty much always use the highest water setting, except sometimes when I have a really small load of one or two items.
I've been thinking about getting a used Speed Queen top loader and adjusting the fill level. One thing about the Speed Queens is you can get the user manual online, and it tells you: Knit cycle has slow agitator speed and fast spin, Permanent Press cycle has fast agitator and slow spin, Normal has fast agitator and spin unless you have the TOL model and override with the fabric selector knob, Delicates has slow agitator and slow spin. Do you have any similar information for my Kenmore?
My husband does more laundry than I do these days, so whatever I decide to try, I have to make sure he goes along with the program. The number 1 item is to be sure we don't overload.
Again, thanks for your input.
Rebeccah
