Kenmore 80 Series

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Melvin,

Cool information and pictures!

That model is listed in the WP catalog -- Interesting that it has a conventional model number. I wondered what the xxx791 was all about, as that's pretty high number. Usually they are 701, 711, 721, 731, 741, maybe up to 751. The 791 must have set it apart.

If four of these came in at once to the shop, they may have all come from the same place? Four late 80s DDs is one thing, but four suds models, that seems a bit unusual, and interesting, at least to me! Also interesting that the suds functions had been deactivated in the other three machines. You'd think in an area where these machines have been popular in the past, that their 'green' aspects would make the machines easy to sell fully functional. Who knows, maybe they were failing in the suds area?

On the timer for the 90, it doesn't look like your machine has much additional space used for the suds. As John said, the giant off in between pre-wash and Normal has that dry agitate section, and that is there on many (maybe all?) of the 4-cycle timers of this era. The other two suds return sections look like simple highlights of what is otherwise the drain portions, which are unmarked in non-suds models. There could be a couple extra 'clicks' used, I don't know. In the 90 series of the late 80s and early 90s, or even my 92 70-series and Chance's 80, there may not be any spare room in that timer. When the second rinse is active, all the offs are one click wide and there appears to be no spare space.

The later 90 series machines had very uncluttered timers, with just one giant cycle - it has a pre-soak in front, followed by an agitate period for a pre-wash, the main cycle, and a second rinse. All the variations were done via rotary switches for speeds, activation of the second rinse, etc. There would probably be plenty of room in this version for a suds return.

My '93 has the top layer of holes in the basket too. I think these went on into the mid-90s. Unlike with a BD, I can't say when they changed, as I have never followed these with the level of interest that I have in BDs. I do know that the original DDs, even the first editions of the 3.0 cu. ft. basket, the perfs resembled belt-drives, with holes only half-way or 2/3 the way up the basket wall.

I would venture to say that the 70-series DDs you saw with straight vane agitators may have been conversions if they were 3.0 baskets. Kenmore had been putting DAs in lesser models by this time and the DA was a 70-series selling feature. There was a few 60-series machines with a straight vane though, and they looked very much like, if not identical, to the 70s. The 1992 60 even used a 70 series timer, but only the Perm Press and Normal were active - the rest were all non-wired dead cycles. Seems like a waste but they didn't have to design another new timer.

I'm glad you found this interesting machine Melvin.

Gordon
 
I had a TOL Kenmore in the early 90's that had dispensers for detergent, bleach, and fabric softener. I had it for about 5 years never had any problems at all with damaged clothes.
 
The owner of the shop disabled the sud-saver feature in the other 3 machines when he took them in and got them working to be sold. I asked him why and he was saying something to the effect of that when he did try and sell the unmodified models, customers would return them because they did not like them. I asked him for the parts and he had already thrown them out. DD Whirlpools and Kenmores sell like hot cakes in my area.
The machine that I have now was the last remaining one and it was still outside, broken and unmodified. I bought it then and there, as I was sure it would end up like the other 3. There was nothing really wrong with it, just a motor with failed bearings, otherwise it is really clean! Up until ~1993, there was a Sears store not far from me, they had a lot of these type of machines.
I do remember the 90 series machines having several different revisions. Some of the more interesting ones even had a light over the timer dial! I have a relative that did get one of these machines some time around 1992-1993. The second Rinse option was a dial on the console "YES" or "NO". The ATC had 3 options like the 80 series machines, it also had the silver trim with the color indicators. At one point the dispenser system was eliminated from the 90 series machines, and the speed selections were put as a dial on the console. This would have certainly freed up space on the timer. Perhaps these changes were to further support the idea that the higher-end models were better. Being TOL was the Lady Kenmore Ultra Fabric Care Electronic set. As in the lower machines have similar fuctionality, but the best of the best is further distingushed by minute changes to looks, with 1 or 2 new, pointless features thrown in.
Most of the 60 series machines that I have seen from this time period were 24" machines with straight vane agitators. I have never seen a 60 series machine with a DA, however I have not seen very many 60 series machines. Perhaps Sears didn't sell many of them?
 
Melvin -

60-series machines, in large cap. belt-drive form, seemed to sell better in tough economic climates. Sears had three different models in 1981/1983 which were available simultaneously. I have seen a number of them, and have a couple today. When things improved in late 1983, they were down to one (which was a DA model), then it was gone by early '85.

There was a DD 60 in the late 80s, and another in the early 90s - one of those had a DA in one of its revised versions. I've never seen any of them come up in Craigslist ads. Its not like I look for them, but having seen many many C/L ad, it seems everything is 70 and 80 series. I like weird models...if I came across a '88 - '92 DD 3.0 model, I'd get it just to have.

They probably would have sold a few of that caliber in the last few tight years, but what I think Sears sold a lot of was the 400 and 500 series. These approximate or may be a bit nicer than the 60 series of years past.

G
 
Shredmore - help?

Maybe you guys can help... I actually have one of those Series 80 Kenmore Ultimate Fabric Care machines, and this month it earned the monikker "Shredmore", as it ruined one of my favorite blouses. I had found a white clothing article wedged underneath one of the agitator fins when I was moving clothes from the washer to the drier, and a few days later when I was hanging up clothes in the closet (my husband had temporarily hung the shirts and blouses on a door knob) I discovered the damage that was done.

I've had other articles of clothes develop small holes in them over the two years I've owned this machine, but I had always assumed it was due to a flaw in the fabric being aggravated by normal wear and tear.

We never had any problems for two years with the front-loader in our last rental house, and I don't remember any problems with the top-loader we inherited with the house we owned for four years before that. Before that was coin-op machines that were often broken, and I think we had more problem with clothes not getting clean or not getting dry than with excessive wear/tearing/holes. This problem seems to be specific to this machine.

Anyway, I know this isn't a "how to wash your clothes" site but an "I love old laundry machines" site, but maybe you can shed some light on the particulars of my machine and perhaps I can figure out how to use it differently so as not to wreck any more clothes. I've searched for burrs or sharp edges, and in view of how I found that shirt under the agitator fin, I think it's a design issue possibly combined with overloading the washer.

So:
This is a model 110-82983800, serial #C91410790. From the comments above, I see that depending on exactly when the machine was made, there may be different agitator and/or spin speeds not only per cycle, but per where the machine is within the cycle. I've been to Sears Parts Direct and can't find a manual there. Can anyone tell me any of the specifications of my machine? What speeds at what parts of what cycles, cu ft capacity, direct drive vs belt drive, etc? As well as any tricks to prevent clothes from getting trapped under the agitator fins?

This is my first time posting, so I'm going to give it a try to post some photos of the machine and of the type of damage.

Thanks for any help and any information!

rebeccah++7-22-2012-17-22-6.jpg
 
And a shot of some of the damage

This is a shot of the back of the blouse; in addition, there's a big hole above the bust dart in the front.

You can see it's not a really fragile blouse, just normal medium-light weight cotton.

Rebeccah

rebeccah++7-22-2012-17-28-52.jpg
 
Rebeccah, I'm the one who coined the phrase shredmore.  Gee, lemme say this, that damage looks like some of the damage I experienced.  I too started noticing sight little holes in garments not too soon after I bough the machine.  Was acceptable, attributed to normal wear and tear, although they were usually undergarments.  But when I sttarted noticing what had been done to about 4 sweaters over time (including a beautiful heavy cotton sweater I washed all by itself and on medium or 3/4 water level abnd it was ruined on delicate)  I knew it was not me, but the machine.  Two neighbors had similar issues with the machine like you have.  My solution, wash everything on knit.  It's totally unpredictable as to when something will end up under the fins like it did with this garment.  It happend to me, sometimes resulting in tears and other times not.  But tihs is wht I learned.  I used the knit cycle about 90% of the time.  Also, when using knit cycle, only have the wash basket about 3/4 full.  Otherwise, yhou won't get a relatively decent rollover for fabrics to get clean in the 8 minutes of that wash phase.  I used that  cycle for bed linens, men's cotton undergarments, cotton sox, and slack, dress shirts, and golft/knit type shirts.  The only time I used cotton/sturdy was for towels and I only put it on the equjivalent of your "normal" setting on the cotton/sturdy cycle.  I had friends who had gone from a Kenore purchased in 1977 to one similar to this--well, a direct drive kenmore with the short, fast agitation stroke.  They complained to me that their new washer was extremely rough on towels.  I asked them what cycle and how long were they setting the time for the wash phase?  Their reply Heavy Dutyt (the equivalent of your cotton/sturdy) and 14 minutes.  I told them to use the same cycle, don't put as many towels in the machine as before, and set it for only 6 minutes (the equivalent of your "normal" soil level).  They then noticed their towels weren't wearing out quite as fast.  So sadly I say, and unfortunately, welcome to my world.  Oh, and when you do wash a load of towels and such, only put about 1/2 to 3/4 of the wash basket full f garments and always use the highest water legvel.  And I see this as a huge waste of water peronally.  See folk, I"m not crazy!!!! 
 
Thanks, appnut.

We've been mostly using the permanent press cycle, but I don't know specifically what cycle was used for this blouse. And I pretty much always use the highest water setting, except sometimes when I have a really small load of one or two items.

I've been thinking about getting a used Speed Queen top loader and adjusting the fill level. One thing about the Speed Queens is you can get the user manual online, and it tells you: Knit cycle has slow agitator speed and fast spin, Permanent Press cycle has fast agitator and slow spin, Normal has fast agitator and spin unless you have the TOL model and override with the fabric selector knob, Delicates has slow agitator and slow spin. Do you have any similar information for my Kenmore?

My husband does more laundry than I do these days, so whatever I decide to try, I have to make sure he goes along with the program. The number 1 item is to be sure we don't overload.

Again, thanks for your input.

Rebeccah
 
Cotton/Sturdy is fast agitation/fast spin.  Perm press is fast agitation and slow spin.  Knit/Delicate is slow agitation/slow spin.  Pre-Soak and pre-wash both have fast agitation and fast spin speed.  And you're welcome, Bob
 
Rebeccah, the washer at the very top of this thread at first glance looks like your machine, however there are significant differences.  On that machihne, notice it has normal cycle.  This cycle starts out with fast agitation at the 10 minute mark and shifts to slow agitation at the 6 minute mark.  Spins are normal spin speed and rinse agitatoin is also slow/gentle.  Perm Press also starts out with fast agitation at the 10 minute mark and shifts to gentle at the 6 minute mark.  Spin speeds and rinse agitation are also gentle on this cycle.  heavy duty is like your cotton/sturdy cycle--fast agitation and fast spin speeds.  The slow agitatin/fast spin speed conbimatnion was deeemed (Normal) fabrics--this was Sears' stupid way of getting around the customers like you & I who had this type of tearing problem, and there were many. 
 
Bob -

The machine in the top picture and mine use the same timer. That timer in fact is used in most all 70 and 80 series machines in the 1992 models.

My machine DOES NOT, I repeat, DOES NOT, do a speed shift in the Normal cycle - it is slow agitation the entire cycle. I have never tried the Perm cycle so I have no idea on that one.

The wiring harness may activate a feature in the first machine that is not active in mine, as the two models use different harnesses, however the 1992/1993 Kenmore sales brochure I have doesn't mention any speed shifts when talking about Ultra Fabric Care models.

Gordon
 
Rebeccah it is unfortunate you are having problems with your Shredmore. Although it is highly typical of these machines and like appnut suggested you have to change your laundry habbits.
 
 
Rebeccah, you can determine what your machine does speed-wise during each cycle by simply observing it in operation.  It should agitate with the lid open.  If there's a speed change (reduction) during the wash period, it'll be obvious when the motor stops for a moment and restarts at a slower speed.  Your machine has a two-speed motor.  High agitation speed of 180 strokes-per-minute.  Low agitation speed is 120 SPM.

Three-speed motors featured on later models provide high agitation 180 SPM, medium (or low) 120 SPM, low (or extra low) 90 SPM.
 
Gordon, thanks.  I have friends that had one of these that had the white console.  I only got to be around when thePerm Press cycle was used (I think that was the only cycle they used) and it shifted speeds at 6 minutes.  I observed it. 
 
Bob -

The white consoles, Sears called them "color coordinated consoles", debuted in 1994 models in a few select machines, mostly 80 series and above. I think there was one 70 - I've been studying the brochure since this thread started...but I think all the 80s and above were considered "Ultra Fabric Care" machines and they could very well have yet different cycle tweaks from the original 1992 tweakage.

Anyway, I have noticed on many Craigslist sale machiness, and even when they were new on the sales floor, that the '94s had different timer arrangements in many cases, in fact the Ultra Care speed control switches became common that year and they had new timers to go with.

In the '92 models, many machines had the inch-long dead spot where the second rinse was deactivated after the heavy duty cycle. I dare say more machines used that timer with that rinse dead then there were machines that actually made use of it. This seemed to stop in '94 as those models have less cluttered timers in the "down line" models and the Ultra Care timer in the upper end. Only one or two models continued with the 92's timer. It is very possible that all the new timers had that speed shift like you are talking about, especially in the Ultra models.

The woodgrain panels finally went away in 1994, in favor of the all black panels with the white and red script lettering, or the color coordinated console. I always liked the jett-black panel, in fact I'm liking it more and more - maybe when I see one on Craigslist that is affordable and in nice shape, it would be worth some experimentation, then donate it to a needy family when done?

Gordon
 
agitator dog ears

Did these older DD models have the dog ears that would wear out in the agitator?  If so could it be that is causing bad roll over in Rebeccah's case?  I know in my newer DD's that once the dog ears wore the top part of the agitator would not turn and roll over stopped.  Of course this was usually heard by a somewhat of a grating plasticish noise during agitation.
 
Very possible Joseph!

Yes indeed, these do have the agitator augers with the four dogs that can wear out. I think this set-up goes back to the mid 80s. This certainly does hamper roll-over, in fact I've had a few neighbors and co-workers say just that, and there are youtube videos showing how to repair these. One of the more popular has been viewed tens of thousands of times and people are always commenting on how it saved their machine from being replaced.
 
Rebecca -

Here's the video I was metioning. It explains it all basically.

If you can grab your agitator top and it free-wheels in one direction and grabs and turns the bottom fins in another it's fine. If it slips in both directions, it needs the four dogs replaced.

I hope this helps!

Gordon

 
Thanks for the link, Kenmoreguy.

I think my agitator is actually working fine. I know I've stuck my hand in there and turned the top agitator, and one direction it turned the bottom agitator and the other way it didn't. But I will check again when I get home.

Rebeccah
 
That's the exact machine my Mother had. It used to dance across the floor with an out of balance load and had to be dragged back into place. I had a newer machine of the same design and it would do the same thing. They won't shut off when they go O/B.
They also tangle up long sleeve shirts.

Both machines have been replaced with rebuilt Maytags. They shut off and stay in place. My Mother and I are much happier.
 
The Out Of balance dance.

Usually if these Ken(NOT SHRED)mores did this the automatic rear leveling legs were either sticky or completely locked up. Unless one was on a soft or uneven floor freeing up the legs usually solves the problem.

That said these DD WP machines do have a tendency to put on quite a show when they go out of balance. Nothing will top the time I saw the aftermath of a hardmount commercial washer that had broken it's mount. 3/4 inch bolts sheared clean off.

Nick WK78
 
Out of Balance.

Our DD has gone out of balance three times in its life, and by unbalanced, I mean the tub hitting the cabinet.

Even after all that, still works like a charm.
 
Out of balance DD Kenmore's can move a good bit. I recently received a free 03 or 04 Kenmore and that thing can MOVE! I have always used kenmores or whirlpools and have never had them damage anything. However if something gets caught under the fins on the agi I could see how stuff could get ripped ect. I think they should have fins attached to the base (make it all one part) any one know why they have that space under the fins?
To avoid torn up I do the following

1. Knits/delicate item are washed on the 3rd speed(Knits) or the 3rd speed with pulsed action.(hand wash)(not on all washers)
1a. To avoid the fins, a higher than normal water setting, so that the items have vertical travel and roll over, (You need more water so that items are not sitting on the base of the agi.)
2.If needed a mesh laundry bag for very fine items.
Other than that I normally do the wash on the medium speed with a fast spin. Nothing has been torn up in any of the DD washers I've used. Even with two speed washers.
 
"...because it reduces drag"

I believe Dave is correct, but it also allows the fins to flex, which makes them more gentle.

This is an old, tried and true agitator design feature. Maytag did this before Kenmore, and Sears has had this configuration since the first Dual-Action agitators in Fall 1975.

Every once in a long while I will find something wrapped around or under the fin of a BD Dual-Action agitator. I guess it's just bound to happen eventually.
 
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