Keymatic help

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Hovver Keymatic 3224 - The First.

Hi Alex, glad another one is saved but you do have a bit of a challenge on your hands - the pump original was massive on this keymatic with a large induction motor to cope with the large volume of water, we have swapped 2 out now with modern ones and they work just as well....As Chris says I think your front suspension wire has snapped and dropped the drum, you can see the lower right hand gear pulley drive has smashed into the lower terminal block and cracked the corner off..This happened to mine and I lost the complete top cover!!

Also the LHS main top spring is looking stretched and out of align. yup the whole of the pulsator clutch drive and solenoid is missing, I have a few keyplates but non of this model and they will be unique to the individual programmer in this machine, this model alone had 6 different timers and updated wiring looms, non interchangeable - probably unless someone ever deceides to scrap a model or we find a breaker then not sure what can be achieved, please dont get too disheatened we dont know what is still out there!!


chestermikeuk-2014082114220406451_1.jpg
 
Hoover Keymatic 3224 - 1961

Heres a pic showing the thin support wire and where it goes, they can be made as Chris mentioned from cycle gear link wires...simple but important.

You can see here where the wire has snapped either side of the large main tub suspension spring and is stretching the hell out of the very fragile door boot...

chestermikeuk-2014082114454303954_1.jpg
 
Spares or repair

Hey mike, lee and Chris, thanks for getting back to me.
It looks like this is going to be a long haul project I guess.
I'm trying not to be too disheartened by the state it's in and the fact I'll probably never get her up and running but it does smart a little. I've been after one of these beauties since I was a boy and can't help but feel a bit disappointed and worried that she's beyond repair! Perhaps I should just sell her on for spares, Especially since without a keyplate it's dead anyway?
Also I can't fathom why they would have removed the impellor/clutch either?? Grrrr

Has anyone else felt this level of frustration and emotion with a project like this, or is it just me??
I think I should step away from the keymatic edge and go make a cuppa

Once again thanks for all your advice on this
Alex
 
Suspension is killing me

Hey mike,
In you're opinion how complex a job is it to restore a keymatic??
I mean if I wanted to go so far as to open her up, strip her down and try my best to completely restore her. And by that I mean replace all faulty hoses wires etc and return originals where possible and even to go so far as to get her re sprayed. Is that something that could be done single handed or would you suggest getting help in?
I have so many questions, but I suppose to cut a long story short, I would love to see this old girl wash again, do you think that would be possible?

Many thanks
Alex
 
Hoover Keymatic 3224 - 1961

Hi Alex, take a deep breath and hold onto it, keep polishing the beauty, realistically its gonna take a few men, hours and input to get it working...as well as spare parts, I did wonder if Hoover actually removed the pulsator clutch and solenoid when they did disable them when modified, but that doesnt explain the missing pulsator itself.

They are a labour of love, very complicated and need a lot of nurtureing, please dont do anything rash, have you repaired any washers or fully restored any at all?
 
And relax

Hey mike,
I've had my cuppa and relaxed a bit now.
Thanks for your words of wisdom. I am going to hold on and see what happens.

My only other vintage washer is a hoovermatic 3334, I've re wired it, replaced the tyre on the pump and plugged a few leaks on the spinner, but this project has been on hold pending parts too! It's got a dud OCV. When I empty the wash tub it fills the spinner! I've managed to find a gasket and balls for the valve but am having trouble removing it because the screw heads have all rusted through.

The twintub looks like the simpler project to embark on first, so perhaps that's what I'll do until the necessary spares turn up. On that note how do I find out what sort of timer I have in order to source the right plate ?
And also if you and any other members fancy a trip to london for a keymatic intervention then please let me know ; )

Once again thanks for Your input
Alex
 
Well I have found a pulsator solenoid too...

Crises just keep happening here but I will get to the post office eventually.

Mike:
As far as I know, the keyplates are the same on all slant fronts, aren't they? They are made of different materials and different colours, but the sizes and notches are all the same.
I know there are hot fill, cold fill and cold wash keyplates, but you can take a keyplate from any 3224 or 3226 and bung it in another 3224 or 3226 and it will do enough to test the machine. Or is that just the Australian ones?

The concept of the keyplate is really pretty simple. Each face of a keyplate (and there are 8 faces - 4 sides x upside down or right way up) and each face has a different series of notches and bumps. Each notch corresponds to one particular increment of the timer, whether it is a notch or a bump decides if that timer increment is completed or skipped. So for example the wash part of the timer has an increment for a 4 minute wash, and another increment for another 4 minute wash. Programs that use an 8 minute wash will stop the timer at the first wash increment and it will wash for 4 minutes. then the timer will advance to the second 4 min wash increment. A program with a 4 minute wash will skip over the first 4 minute wash increment and go straight to the second. Another notch on the keyplate will determine if the final 4 minute wash increment has pulsator action or not. (Pulsator action washes are only 4 minutes long.)

This system means there are an incredible maze of wires between the timer and the keyplate reader - 2 wires for every notch in the reader! Plus another pair for the "extra push" it takes to start a cycle. If you remove the keyplate during a cycle, all segments are de-selected so it skips straight to the end.

I always liked that it actually does EVERY action as it passes that increment, whether that increment is selected or not only alters if it stays on an increment or only does it for a second. So if you start a cycle and then remove the keyplate, you get squirt (hot fill) -click (timer increments) squirt (cold fill) click-click- click (heater different temperatures) - click ( 1 second tumble) - click (another tumble) - click ( 1 second pump) - and so on, clickety clacking with little bursts of activity, pausing only to pump out completely if there is water in the drum before its quick tumble and jump to spin for a second, then shut down.
Well that's me, yes I am barking mad.

Chris.
 
Hey Chris ,
Just to say I hope all is well? And that you are a complete star!!
It's also great to know that it's possible to find a keyplate that will work.
I'll drop you a proper email soon.
But honestly mr thank you !
 
Alex
I'll second what Mike says, take it easy do a bit at a time and don't get too disheartened when (if?) things go a little awry. I have to say that when it goes right its great. Managed to get mine to actually do things a couple of weeks ago, many thanks here to Mathew and Mike, the timer now cycles through, but will only kick the pump into action, and on very odd occasions the motor briefly, as Chris describes above. I'm just in the process of cleaning contacts and repairing connections in the hope that it will stop the timer cycling constantly and stop when it gets back to step 0, which it won't do at the moment.
Keep chipping away at jobs on yours.
Ian
 
Hey Ian,
Thanks for the reply.
It looks like I've quite a challenge on my hands, and it may take a while for parts to surface I guess.

I've a question or two for you

Is your timer from the model with the rotary indicator?
And do you think it likely that a keyplate will ever surface?

Cheers

Alex
 

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