Kitchenaid KUDS230B- Totally screwed

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joe233

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Joined
Dec 6, 2008
Messages
35
Hi,

Me again.

Now I think I know why the soap wasn't always emptying?
I observed the cycles tonight and it looked like there
wasn't any water in the rinse cycle. I'm not sure what's
broken but it seems totally screwed. The round seat and
lower spray arm comes right off if I lift it up. Is that
normal? The sort of webbed right that goes around the
spray arm seat is broken and came apart when I tried to
put it back.

I have no idea where to start.

Should I get a new dishwasher?

thanks
 
Edit Correction:

I meant to say webbed ring.

The sort of webbed ring that goes around the
spray arm seat is broken and came apart when I tried to
put it back.
 
I wish I could edit my posts instead of triple posting.

I ran a few cycles. Once it had water for the first wash cycle
but not the second. Next time it had no water for the first wash cycle. I tried running the rinse cycle. It had water. I'm not sure it was full enough. It was up to the top of the sunken
space around the ring but none was in the basin. When I opened it
during a cycle where no water was present it made a kind of hum.

I thought I'd update this to get a jump on it :-)

I will run some more tests....
 
Only answr I can give you right now is, NO, don't start looking for a new dishwasher. The KA expers will be able to help you with this.
 
It can only be:

1- Float / water-level safety cut-off switch
2- Water inlet solenoid
3- Timer
4- Wiring associated with these items.

To me it sounds like the timer
 
I thought it may be the timer also from doing a some google research.

The timer costs $200.
We may be looking for a new dishwasher.

Can you all recommend a good economical dishwasher?
 
I doubt it would be the timer. I had this model and encountered the same problem. Its the water inlet valve. If the timer is going thru the cycle then its not that. The valve is on the left hand side in the access area. Just remove the lower panel and make sure the power is off. Get a nut driver and you will see that the valve is on the left. You will have to detach the water pipe or hose to it and the wires. It comes out easily and remove the hose clamp for the inlet tube. Pull it out and put the new one in. It should take care of the problem. Also the 4 way HydroSweep is designed to be easy to remove. Pull up and off the PowerClean Module and slide back down. The design of the top of the wash arm support is made in a way that it deflects the water horizontally and it holds the arm down on the shaft. Its rather genius in simplicity.
Let us know how you make out.
 
Don't give up on the KA so quickly.

~Can you all recommend a good economical dishwasher?
Ask 10 people and you'll get 15 opinions.

Overall I still like the Whirlpool "Power-Clean" module type NON tall-tub (i.e. door and access panel) best. Loads decently, washes well and is relatively quick. Available with Kenmore name as well, IIRC. Search carefully (must have a ROUND water intake area at the bottom; not square/recangular) and you MAY be able to find it without electronic controls under one of WhilrTag's various brand names.

I have heard good things overall about the GE tall-tubs, with only one bad review.

Frigidaires don't last too long (but are plentiful and cheap) and some say they dont wash too well, and Bosch-es don't load too well.

My Maytag newer is a good machine, but like the lower-end GE's (water-hogs that wash decently) I'm not thrilled with the silverware basket in the center (left to right) of the front of the lower rack. To me, that location is a space-killer.
 
OK, so it's this item?


I will also need this as the old one is
missing most of the screen material and is
broken.


Are you fairly sure about this? Would it
act as mine is? Work sometimes and not
at all others? It does seem that the timer
is running through the cycles, even dry.

Do I remove the front panel or the smaller
panel below it?

Should I put the 55 to 60 bucks into this to
replace the two parts?

thank you!
 
I've run into a snag. How can I remove the lower panel
cover? The screws are in a position between the cabinets
and the dishwasher. If I had a screw head on a flat wrench
type thing I could do it. Is there such a tool? :-)

Also I had some smoke inside once. I think it was from
the broken plastic strainer falling down into the center.
Could this have been from the water heater melting it?
That's what it seemed like. It doesn't seem to smoke now
that I completely removed the strainer.

I just want to know if I have other electrical problems
or if it was possible the heater caused it. I don't know
where the heater is located.
 
OK, so it's this item?

Water inlet valve

I will also need this as the old one is
missing most of the screen material and is
broken.

Strainer

Are you fairly sure about this? Would it
act as mine is? Work sometimes and not
at all others? It does seem that the timer
is running through the cycles, even dry.

Do I remove the front panel or the smaller
panel below it?

Should I put the 55 to 60 bucks into this to
replace the two parts?

Also I had some smoke inside once. I think it was from
the broken plastic strainer falling down into the center.
Could this have been from the water heater melting it?
That's what it seemed like. It doesn't seem to smoke now
that I completely removed the strainer.

I just want to know if I have other electrical problems
or if it was possible the heater caused it. I don't know
where the heater is located.

thank you!
 
I've been waiting since Monday for some help here!

I have the lower cover off. I am not sure where the
water inlet valve is. I think I may see it behind a
large metal bracket. Looks like a hassle.

If I don't get some help here I will have to buy
a new dishwasher soon.

thanks
 
The smoke could come from either the water heating element if something meltable/burnable got on it (such as pieces from the pump strainer), or from the drying heater element.

The water heating element is exposed in the pump sump area.

The drying element is in the blower housing outside the tub. Dust can get on it, or it could short-out to account for smoking.

The water valve is behind the lower panel, where the incoming water line (from under your sink) connects to the dishwasher. Your link above at RepairClinic shows the valve so you should be able to identify it. Remove the valve and examine it for clogging, clean it if necessary, reinstall, see if that helps.

However, if the machine *consistently* *does* fill at particular points during a cycle, and consistently *doesn't* fill at other points, then the problem may be the timer, not the valve. Run a cycle with the lower panel off, check for voltage at the valve at a point in the cycle when it should be filling but isn't.

PartsTap.com has the valve $5 less than RepairClinic.
 
Well, it may be time for a new one.
This unit is 15 years old. I now see
stress fractures in the plate under
the front handle that lifts up.

I will look over the valve. Seems like
a job to get at it. I loosened that steel
bracket in front of it. Maybe I don't need
to. I will attempt to extract it with an
open end wrench on the small bracket on
the valve itself. I lost a screw, s**t :-)

Again any recommendations for a new unit?

Are there any to brands/models to stay away from?

I apologize for my impatience. Frustrating....
thanks
 
15 years is not too old ...

I have a KUDS22 (one series older than yours) bought in 1992 that my sister is now using. No repairs on it. It sat unused for about three years and the timer was a bit flaky at first but "loosened up" after a couple runs.
 
Doesn't a timer cost about 200 bucks?

And I don't have all the equipment needed such
as a multi-meter or the know how.

Do you still think I should try?

The most I ever did to it was re-adjust the
bi-metal clips when the soap doors were not
opening. They have worked like a charm ever
since you guys helped me with them.

I attempt more if you think it's worth it.

Is it worth a 200 part and a service call?

What do you all think of this Kenmore 13742?
www.sears.com

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For $43 more, I'd suggest the 13112 or 13412, these two are essentially like above, but add a staisness steel tub. I can vouch from personal experience, the SS tub retains heat longer and aids in overnight drying far better than the plastic tub. Also, be aware tha an average cycle, with 1/2 an hour dry time, runs about 2 hours and 6 minutes, (126 minutes) the shortest I've ever had was 110 minutes and that was with very minimal soil that didn't trip the soil sensor. That's using Smart Wash with only heated dry. My grungiest load has taken 2 hours and 47 minutes. I've had my machine for 1.5 years.
 

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