I need a therapist/counselor ...
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I need a therapist/counselor ...
wft2800
Well-known member
Wait, what - top-loading H-axis dryer, but the washer is a vertical-axis HE washplate thing?!
Hey Glenn, was that dryer built in the USA/Canada or elsewhere? I know the regular front door F&P dryers were GE built. I remember when our local dealer told me they were developing a top loading dryer and I saw a few of them in the showrooms later on but I've never used one.
I need a therapist/counselor
No you don't. *LOL*
Were it so please go to the end of that queue; there is rather long line. Hahahaha.
No you don't. *LOL*
Were it so please go to the end of that queue; there is rather long line. Hahahaha.
The washer was produced in Clyde, OH. Serial June 2009, US.
Dryer also in Clyde ... which I wasn't aware any were done in the U.S., thought all the topload units were manuf'd in NZ. Serial March 2010, US.
My daily-driver dryer since Oct 2004 is an F&P toploader, a DEGX1 SmartLoad model, not an AeroSmart. Serial July 2004, NZ.
AeroSmart is the same mechanism, just a different marketing name and slightly more "deluxe" with the designated Sheets and Bulky cycles.
These are the lower-end AquaSmart and AeroSmart models. The TOL models have different control consoles with LCD panels ... similar to the difference between Eco Smart and Intuitive Eco. Found them on the local Facebook Marketplace. Quite surprising to find such here so I couldn't let them pass. Seller said he bought them in San Antonio. He said no issues with the dryer (remains to be seen) but the washer needs a "motion sencor" and "springs." I haven't yet run diagnostics but the tub bounced like a bronco on a test spin, which indicates bad suspension. He had bought a spare control panel (included) via eBay but that's not the fix for this situation.
Congratulations Glenn! No need for a therapist, we can do that for you. ;-)
Good luck with repairs on the washer and we'll look forward to video (should you have time) when the job's completed. I, too, got a chuckle from the washer being vertical axis/washplate and the dryer horizontal axis. Don't see that often.
deltablu
Well-known member
We sold hundreds
of the lesser versions of these machines. GWL15/WAT26G washers and DEGX1/DEGX2 TL h-axis dryers. We got totally out of F&P after they discontinued the TL h-axis dryer. Without that they were harder to market and we had lots of upset customers with the pump failures on the washers. They didn't have any fusing in their controls and any electrical problem takes out the boards. They just notified us last week that the pumps are no longer going to be manufactured, so probably not going to be fixing many more of them.
of the lesser versions of these machines. GWL15/WAT26G washers and DEGX1/DEGX2 TL h-axis dryers. We got totally out of F&P after they discontinued the TL h-axis dryer. Without that they were harder to market and we had lots of upset customers with the pump failures on the washers. They didn't have any fusing in their controls and any electrical problem takes out the boards. They just notified us last week that the pumps are no longer going to be manufactured, so probably not going to be fixing many more of them.
Hi Glenn
About the suspension - The following assumes the washer suspension is similar to the older Smart Drive machines, I am more familiar with them.
You can give a new lease of life to the suspension units. Remove the caps hiding the screws at front of the top panel. Remove the screws. Tilt the top panel back, lean it against a wall. Lift the top of one suspension strut to disengage the top of the strut. Drop the strut assembly downwards to disengage the assembly from the outer tub. Manoevre the strut up and out from between cabinet and outer tub.
Now turn the strut upside down, let the plastic outer "bell" slide down to reveal the plastic inner friction disc, which is at the bottom of the steel strut. (now at the top). You will see that the friction disc has a flared lip around the edge.The flare weakens over time, you simply need to bend the lip outwards a bit more all the way around the disc. I roll the handle of a screwdriver around the lip to increase the flare. This makes the flared edge of the disc a tighter fit in the plastic "bell" so the suspension sits firmer and doesn't bounce around so much. You will get another year or two of use before it needs to be re-flared again. DO NOT LUBE the disc. It needs friction to control bouncing.
Now refit that strut and repeat one at a time on the other 3.
I'm not sure if smaller FP washers were sold in USA or only the 7.5 kg models, but the larger machines certainly have this trouble more here. The 5 and 5.5kg models never seem to have suspension trouble, the 7.5 kg models always do. The big models use the same suspension as the smaller ones, which may explain the trouble in the big 'uns.
If it spins, I doubt it needs a motion sensor. (The hall sensor I assume...)
Chris.
About the suspension - The following assumes the washer suspension is similar to the older Smart Drive machines, I am more familiar with them.
You can give a new lease of life to the suspension units. Remove the caps hiding the screws at front of the top panel. Remove the screws. Tilt the top panel back, lean it against a wall. Lift the top of one suspension strut to disengage the top of the strut. Drop the strut assembly downwards to disengage the assembly from the outer tub. Manoevre the strut up and out from between cabinet and outer tub.
Now turn the strut upside down, let the plastic outer "bell" slide down to reveal the plastic inner friction disc, which is at the bottom of the steel strut. (now at the top). You will see that the friction disc has a flared lip around the edge.The flare weakens over time, you simply need to bend the lip outwards a bit more all the way around the disc. I roll the handle of a screwdriver around the lip to increase the flare. This makes the flared edge of the disc a tighter fit in the plastic "bell" so the suspension sits firmer and doesn't bounce around so much. You will get another year or two of use before it needs to be re-flared again. DO NOT LUBE the disc. It needs friction to control bouncing.
Now refit that strut and repeat one at a time on the other 3.
I'm not sure if smaller FP washers were sold in USA or only the 7.5 kg models, but the larger machines certainly have this trouble more here. The 5 and 5.5kg models never seem to have suspension trouble, the 7.5 kg models always do. The big models use the same suspension as the smaller ones, which may explain the trouble in the big 'uns.
If it spins, I doubt it needs a motion sensor. (The hall sensor I assume...)
Chris.
Gizmo/Chris: Thanks for the tip. It may be useful in the future for my non-AquaSmart models. Early AquaSmart used open springs on the suspension but that was redesigned to sealed, grease-filled dampers. U.S. models are always the largest capacity.
AquaSmart also has multiple elastic straps to control tub oscillation (vs. one bias spring).
An interesting development. There are detergent, bleach, and softener dispensers on the top deck ... but it didn't register until now that the model number on back of the console is WL37T26KW2 which is a non-dispenser model.
The tag on back of the cabinet references WL37T26DW2 which is a triple-dispenser model.
The tag on the included extra console matches the cabinet tag ... so it's the original console (has option buttons for Bleach and Softener). The replacement console/display board that the seller bought via eBay in an attempt to fix the machine is installed, and it's the wrong one (does not have Bleach and Softener options).
The tub and basket are on-par with what I expected ... could be worse!
Very Nice Glenn!
It sounds like we need to have another Texas Wash-In in the near future!
It sounds like we need to have another Texas Wash-In in the near future!
Works for me B!!!!
Disassembly.
Dryer Runs
Heats, bearings are quiet and smooth. Needs clean-up. (buzzing is very noisy air conditioner through open garage door)
Heats, bearings are quiet and smooth. Needs clean-up. (buzzing is very noisy air conditioner through open garage door)
Washer Progress
1 - Smutz in the basket (bowl in NZ parlance) air dome cavities.
2 & 3 - Bowl clean.
4 & 5 - Dirty & clean tub.
1 - Smutz in the basket (bowl in NZ parlance) air dome cavities.
2 & 3 - Bowl clean.
4 & 5 - Dirty & clean tub.
Pump
1 - SmartPump mounted under tub. Drain hose at top, recirculate hose at bottom.
2 - Stator removed. It's a wet-rotor design. The pink bearing cavity fills with water for lubrication.
3 - Stator pieces. 325v, 6-pole, 3-phase.
4 - AquaSmart uses a reversing pump with a passive flapper valve instead of a powered diverter. Water turbulence pushes the flapper to close one outlet port and open the other for drain or recirculate depending upon which direction the impeller rotates. The impeller and flapper aren't normally exposed, a cover piece mounts atop the housing to protect against debris.
1 - SmartPump mounted under tub. Drain hose at top, recirculate hose at bottom.
2 - Stator removed. It's a wet-rotor design. The pink bearing cavity fills with water for lubrication.
3 - Stator pieces. 325v, 6-pole, 3-phase.
4 - AquaSmart uses a reversing pump with a passive flapper valve instead of a powered diverter. Water turbulence pushes the flapper to close one outlet port and open the other for drain or recirculate depending upon which direction the impeller rotates. The impeller and flapper aren't normally exposed, a cover piece mounts atop the housing to protect against debris.
SmartDrive Motor
1 - Motor rotor.
2 - Close-up of magnets (48 total).
3 - Whirlpool part number!
4 - Stator, also with Whirlpool part number. 36-pole, 3-phase, DC current.
5 - RPS (rotor position sensor).
1 - Motor rotor.
2 - Close-up of magnets (48 total).
3 - Whirlpool part number!
4 - Stator, also with Whirlpool part number. 36-pole, 3-phase, DC current.
5 - RPS (rotor position sensor).
A concern related to the washer's off-balance, galloping tub has come to attention. Service doc says the bowl is to weigh 24 lbs 3 oz +/- 10 oz (another reference in the same doc says +/- 4.2 oz). The weight spec takes the water-filled balance rings into consideration in that off-spec weight indicates balance ring integrity is failed/leaked.
Bowl weight & balance ring integrity is an integral factor in spin stability & off-balance handling. The machine does not have a physical off-balance switch but rather employs software-based "bump detect" of cabinet impacts and rotational characteristics.
I get 22.6 or 22.8 lbs via my bathroom scales, which accuracy is not insured.
I weighed 3 gals of water which should be a smidgeon over 25 lbs incl the plastic 5-gal bucket. It clocked 26.6 lbs. The empty bucket doesn't itself register on the scales.
There's no evidence of a cracked balance ring and I hear water sloshing when the bowl is rolled. The upper balance ring is comprised of two chambers, both half-filled. The base balance ring has three chambers, also all partially-filled. There's no way to judge that all five chambers are properly filled other than via weight of the whole thing.
So the decision is should I get a new bowl on the presumption 22.8 lbs (considering the apparent error of the scales re: the water bucket test) is too far off the 24.x lbs spec and that's the whole problem .... or get suspension rods .... or an RPS ... or some combination of the items.
I would start with the suspension rods, they seem to get a lot of attention on youtube when it comes to items needing to be replaced on these for inability to spin.
I have one of the Early Aquasmart models that was sold as a second back when the Factory still operated in Brisbane. I got it second hand and put a new control board in it only to discover it goes OOB in every single load that has anything in it. I decided at that point I'd wasted enough money and just left it in storage.
I'd love to know if they can be reprogrammed to take an agitator rather than just the washplate
I have one of the Early Aquasmart models that was sold as a second back when the Factory still operated in Brisbane. I got it second hand and put a new control board in it only to discover it goes OOB in every single load that has anything in it. I decided at that point I'd wasted enough money and just left it in storage.
I'd love to know if they can be reprogrammed to take an agitator rather than just the washplate
