I need a therapist/counselor ...
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I need a therapist/counselor ...
wft2800
Well-known member
Wait, what - top-loading H-axis dryer, but the washer is a vertical-axis HE washplate thing?!
Hey Glenn, was that dryer built in the USA/Canada or elsewhere? I know the regular front door F&P dryers were GE built. I remember when our local dealer told me they were developing a top loading dryer and I saw a few of them in the showrooms later on but I've never used one.
launderess
Well-known member
I need a therapist/counselor
No you don't. *LOL*
Were it so please go to the end of that queue; there is rather long line. Hahahaha.
No you don't. *LOL*
Were it so please go to the end of that queue; there is rather long line. Hahahaha.
The washer was produced in Clyde, OH. Serial June 2009, US.
Dryer also in Clyde ... which I wasn't aware any were done in the U.S., thought all the topload units were manuf'd in NZ. Serial March 2010, US.
My daily-driver dryer since Oct 2004 is an F&P toploader, a DEGX1 SmartLoad model, not an AeroSmart. Serial July 2004, NZ.
AeroSmart is the same mechanism, just a different marketing name and slightly more "deluxe" with the designated Sheets and Bulky cycles.
These are the lower-end AquaSmart and AeroSmart models. The TOL models have different control consoles with LCD panels ... similar to the difference between Eco Smart and Intuitive Eco. Found them on the local Facebook Marketplace. Quite surprising to find such here so I couldn't let them pass. Seller said he bought them in San Antonio. He said no issues with the dryer (remains to be seen) but the washer needs a "motion sencor" and "springs." I haven't yet run diagnostics but the tub bounced like a bronco on a test spin, which indicates bad suspension. He had bought a spare control panel (included) via eBay but that's not the fix for this situation.
Congratulations Glenn! No need for a therapist, we can do that for you. ;-)
Good luck with repairs on the washer and we'll look forward to video (should you have time) when the job's completed. I, too, got a chuckle from the washer being vertical axis/washplate and the dryer horizontal axis. Don't see that often.
deltablu
Well-known member
We sold hundreds
of the lesser versions of these machines. GWL15/WAT26G washers and DEGX1/DEGX2 TL h-axis dryers. We got totally out of F&P after they discontinued the TL h-axis dryer. Without that they were harder to market and we had lots of upset customers with the pump failures on the washers. They didn't have any fusing in their controls and any electrical problem takes out the boards. They just notified us last week that the pumps are no longer going to be manufactured, so probably not going to be fixing many more of them.
of the lesser versions of these machines. GWL15/WAT26G washers and DEGX1/DEGX2 TL h-axis dryers. We got totally out of F&P after they discontinued the TL h-axis dryer. Without that they were harder to market and we had lots of upset customers with the pump failures on the washers. They didn't have any fusing in their controls and any electrical problem takes out the boards. They just notified us last week that the pumps are no longer going to be manufactured, so probably not going to be fixing many more of them.
Hi Glenn
About the suspension - The following assumes the washer suspension is similar to the older Smart Drive machines, I am more familiar with them.
You can give a new lease of life to the suspension units. Remove the caps hiding the screws at front of the top panel. Remove the screws. Tilt the top panel back, lean it against a wall. Lift the top of one suspension strut to disengage the top of the strut. Drop the strut assembly downwards to disengage the assembly from the outer tub. Manoevre the strut up and out from between cabinet and outer tub.
Now turn the strut upside down, let the plastic outer "bell" slide down to reveal the plastic inner friction disc, which is at the bottom of the steel strut. (now at the top). You will see that the friction disc has a flared lip around the edge.The flare weakens over time, you simply need to bend the lip outwards a bit more all the way around the disc. I roll the handle of a screwdriver around the lip to increase the flare. This makes the flared edge of the disc a tighter fit in the plastic "bell" so the suspension sits firmer and doesn't bounce around so much. You will get another year or two of use before it needs to be re-flared again. DO NOT LUBE the disc. It needs friction to control bouncing.
Now refit that strut and repeat one at a time on the other 3.
I'm not sure if smaller FP washers were sold in USA or only the 7.5 kg models, but the larger machines certainly have this trouble more here. The 5 and 5.5kg models never seem to have suspension trouble, the 7.5 kg models always do. The big models use the same suspension as the smaller ones, which may explain the trouble in the big 'uns.
If it spins, I doubt it needs a motion sensor. (The hall sensor I assume...)
Chris.
About the suspension - The following assumes the washer suspension is similar to the older Smart Drive machines, I am more familiar with them.
You can give a new lease of life to the suspension units. Remove the caps hiding the screws at front of the top panel. Remove the screws. Tilt the top panel back, lean it against a wall. Lift the top of one suspension strut to disengage the top of the strut. Drop the strut assembly downwards to disengage the assembly from the outer tub. Manoevre the strut up and out from between cabinet and outer tub.
Now turn the strut upside down, let the plastic outer "bell" slide down to reveal the plastic inner friction disc, which is at the bottom of the steel strut. (now at the top). You will see that the friction disc has a flared lip around the edge.The flare weakens over time, you simply need to bend the lip outwards a bit more all the way around the disc. I roll the handle of a screwdriver around the lip to increase the flare. This makes the flared edge of the disc a tighter fit in the plastic "bell" so the suspension sits firmer and doesn't bounce around so much. You will get another year or two of use before it needs to be re-flared again. DO NOT LUBE the disc. It needs friction to control bouncing.
Now refit that strut and repeat one at a time on the other 3.
I'm not sure if smaller FP washers were sold in USA or only the 7.5 kg models, but the larger machines certainly have this trouble more here. The 5 and 5.5kg models never seem to have suspension trouble, the 7.5 kg models always do. The big models use the same suspension as the smaller ones, which may explain the trouble in the big 'uns.
If it spins, I doubt it needs a motion sensor. (The hall sensor I assume...)
Chris.
Gizmo/Chris: Thanks for the tip. It may be useful in the future for my non-AquaSmart models. Early AquaSmart used open springs on the suspension but that was redesigned to sealed, grease-filled dampers. U.S. models are always the largest capacity.
AquaSmart also has multiple elastic straps to control tub oscillation (vs. one bias spring).
An interesting development. There are detergent, bleach, and softener dispensers on the top deck ... but it didn't register until now that the model number on back of the console is WL37T26KW2 which is a non-dispenser model.
The tag on back of the cabinet references WL37T26DW2 which is a triple-dispenser model.
The tag on the included extra console matches the cabinet tag ... so it's the original console (has option buttons for Bleach and Softener). The replacement console/display board that the seller bought via eBay in an attempt to fix the machine is installed, and it's the wrong one (does not have Bleach and Softener options).
The tub and basket are on-par with what I expected ... could be worse!
Very Nice Glenn!
It sounds like we need to have another Texas Wash-In in the near future!
It sounds like we need to have another Texas Wash-In in the near future!
Works for me B!!!!
Disassembly.
Dryer Runs
Heats, bearings are quiet and smooth. Needs clean-up. (buzzing is very noisy air conditioner through open garage door)
Heats, bearings are quiet and smooth. Needs clean-up. (buzzing is very noisy air conditioner through open garage door)
Washer Progress
1 - Smutz in the basket (bowl in NZ parlance) air dome cavities.
2 & 3 - Bowl clean.
4 & 5 - Dirty & clean tub.
1 - Smutz in the basket (bowl in NZ parlance) air dome cavities.
2 & 3 - Bowl clean.
4 & 5 - Dirty & clean tub.
Pump
1 - SmartPump mounted under tub. Drain hose at top, recirculate hose at bottom.
2 - Stator removed. It's a wet-rotor design. The pink bearing cavity fills with water for lubrication.
3 - Stator pieces. 325v, 6-pole, 3-phase.
4 - AquaSmart uses a reversing pump with a passive flapper valve instead of a powered diverter. Water turbulence pushes the flapper to close one outlet port and open the other for drain or recirculate depending upon which direction the impeller rotates. The impeller and flapper aren't normally exposed, a cover piece mounts atop the housing to protect against debris.
1 - SmartPump mounted under tub. Drain hose at top, recirculate hose at bottom.
2 - Stator removed. It's a wet-rotor design. The pink bearing cavity fills with water for lubrication.
3 - Stator pieces. 325v, 6-pole, 3-phase.
4 - AquaSmart uses a reversing pump with a passive flapper valve instead of a powered diverter. Water turbulence pushes the flapper to close one outlet port and open the other for drain or recirculate depending upon which direction the impeller rotates. The impeller and flapper aren't normally exposed, a cover piece mounts atop the housing to protect against debris.
SmartDrive Motor
1 - Motor rotor.
2 - Close-up of magnets (48 total).
3 - Whirlpool part number!
4 - Stator, also with Whirlpool part number. 36-pole, 3-phase, DC current.
5 - RPS (rotor position sensor).
1 - Motor rotor.
2 - Close-up of magnets (48 total).
3 - Whirlpool part number!
4 - Stator, also with Whirlpool part number. 36-pole, 3-phase, DC current.
5 - RPS (rotor position sensor).
A concern related to the washer's off-balance, galloping tub has come to attention. Service doc says the bowl is to weigh 24 lbs 3 oz +/- 10 oz (another reference in the same doc says +/- 4.2 oz). The weight spec takes the water-filled balance rings into consideration in that off-spec weight indicates balance ring integrity is failed/leaked.
Bowl weight & balance ring integrity is an integral factor in spin stability & off-balance handling. The machine does not have a physical off-balance switch but rather employs software-based "bump detect" of cabinet impacts and rotational characteristics.
I get 22.6 or 22.8 lbs via my bathroom scales, which accuracy is not insured.
I weighed 3 gals of water which should be a smidgeon over 25 lbs incl the plastic 5-gal bucket. It clocked 26.6 lbs. The empty bucket doesn't itself register on the scales.
There's no evidence of a cracked balance ring and I hear water sloshing when the bowl is rolled. The upper balance ring is comprised of two chambers, both half-filled. The base balance ring has three chambers, also all partially-filled. There's no way to judge that all five chambers are properly filled other than via weight of the whole thing.
So the decision is should I get a new bowl on the presumption 22.8 lbs (considering the apparent error of the scales re: the water bucket test) is too far off the 24.x lbs spec and that's the whole problem .... or get suspension rods .... or an RPS ... or some combination of the items.
brisnat81
Well-known member
I would start with the suspension rods, they seem to get a lot of attention on youtube when it comes to items needing to be replaced on these for inability to spin.
I have one of the Early Aquasmart models that was sold as a second back when the Factory still operated in Brisbane. I got it second hand and put a new control board in it only to discover it goes OOB in every single load that has anything in it. I decided at that point I'd wasted enough money and just left it in storage.
I'd love to know if they can be reprogrammed to take an agitator rather than just the washplate
I have one of the Early Aquasmart models that was sold as a second back when the Factory still operated in Brisbane. I got it second hand and put a new control board in it only to discover it goes OOB in every single load that has anything in it. I decided at that point I'd wasted enough money and just left it in storage.
I'd love to know if they can be reprogrammed to take an agitator rather than just the washplate
AeroSmart Dryer Clean-Up
The previous owners apparently had pets, lots of short white/black animal hair in the lint accumulation. Also some general dirt.
Disassembly is by removing the top panel, front panel, and the door grabber mechanism. The internal chassis then tilts out forward as a unit for further disassembly.
The heater box and motor control board mount to the floor.
Two heating elements, 3,400 watts (2/3 capacity - A) and 1,600 watts (1/3 capacity - B). Both elements energize on high temp, forward drum rotation. Only the A element operates on medium and low temp, forward direction. Only the B element operates during reverse tumble.
The lint filter ring rotates with the drum. A scraper piece about 1/8" distance from it peels accumulated lint off the inner surface which drops into a collection bucket, thus effectively keeping the filter clear throughout the cycle.
The ring of dimples embossed into the drum is optically read by the sensor board in Pic 9 to monitor the rotational speed and direction, and position (the gap in the dimple ring) for opening the drum door.
The wad of lint and hair in Pic 10 is behind the housing where the collection bucket sits.
The back of the lint scraper can be seen at the top in Pic 11.
The previous owners apparently had pets, lots of short white/black animal hair in the lint accumulation. Also some general dirt.
Disassembly is by removing the top panel, front panel, and the door grabber mechanism. The internal chassis then tilts out forward as a unit for further disassembly.
The heater box and motor control board mount to the floor.
Two heating elements, 3,400 watts (2/3 capacity - A) and 1,600 watts (1/3 capacity - B). Both elements energize on high temp, forward drum rotation. Only the A element operates on medium and low temp, forward direction. Only the B element operates during reverse tumble.
The lint filter ring rotates with the drum. A scraper piece about 1/8" distance from it peels accumulated lint off the inner surface which drops into a collection bucket, thus effectively keeping the filter clear throughout the cycle.
The ring of dimples embossed into the drum is optically read by the sensor board in Pic 9 to monitor the rotational speed and direction, and position (the gap in the dimple ring) for opening the drum door.
The wad of lint and hair in Pic 10 is behind the housing where the collection bucket sits.
The back of the lint scraper can be seen at the top in Pic 11.
AeroSmart Reassembly
The blower pulls air through the heater box, through the input flume on the right side of the chassis, into the drum, through the filter ring and the duct on the left side of the chassis, and blows out the exhaust duct. Can reach into the exhaust duct from the back and touch the blower wheel.
New bearing shaft. Sorry, I didn't get a pic of the bearing assembly that mounts to the drum.
The blower pulls air through the heater box, through the input flume on the right side of the chassis, into the drum, through the filter ring and the duct on the left side of the chassis, and blows out the exhaust duct. Can reach into the exhaust duct from the back and touch the blower wheel.
New bearing shaft. Sorry, I didn't get a pic of the bearing assembly that mounts to the drum.
The drum baffles and door housing are mounted into the drum during assembly and cannot be disassembled. I wanted to remove the baffles to clean the lint that surely is accumulated in them but that's not possible. :-(
The drum door is secured closed by the red latch tabs and the locking bars.
A dual-pulley assembly applies tension to the drum belt.
The drum door is opened by way of the drum rotating slowly backwards, the door grabber mechanism moving down to release the red latches, catch and lift the locking bars and "grab" the door. The door then essentially is held stationary as the drum continues to rotate, which slides the door through the slots in the housing and it ends up hanging in front of the drum.
Closing the door is the reverse ... drum rotates forward until the door is closed, then the door grabber lifts to release and engage the locking bars and "let go" of the door.
The lid, of course, locks during operation for safety ... otherwise fingers could get caught and mangled by the rotating drum.
The lid unlocks during a power failure. A tab is provided to manually press the lid grabber down while rotating the drum backward by hand to open the lid. There's an information sticker on the drum lid with instructions.
Dryer Refurb Complete
Nice work, Glenn, the dryer looks amazing. Your detail and cleaning skills are to be commended, just sparkling work.
Now I want one of these dryers, again. I've seen a couple over the years on CL, etc. but haven't bitten. May have to try one, they are very unique.
Now I want one of these dryers, again. I've seen a couple over the years on CL, etc. but haven't bitten. May have to try one, they are very unique.
deltablu
Well-known member
Looks like your lint filter is intact. With that much garbage in the filter bucket area, that's impressive. I did see that your A element is beginning to sag. Probably want to pick up an element kit while the parts still exist, unless you already have one.
AeroSmart swapped in. SmartLoad swapped out.
I like the lighter colors on the SmartLoad panel better than the black AeroSmart. :-/
The AquaSmart worked with new suspension rods. Yay! I also changed the RPS so can't say with 100% certainty the suspension was the problem, although I imagine so. I don't "feel" much difference on the dampening of the old rods vs. the new when pulling on them so it's apparently subtle.
For those who noticed the reference above to "worked" ... that's right, it's now not working. My fault. Playing with it too much. I raised/lowered the top several times while watching it spin ... one time too many and too high up, causing a wire in the new RPS harness to get cut against the sharp edge of cabinet where the wire bundle passes up to the console at a notch at the right rear corner. The catastrophe zapped the motor board. Not fully dead but non-functional, has a burned spot. The new RPS probably is also damaged.
The replacement RPS has a hard-wired 5-lead harness which eliminates a connection plug at the RPS in the motor to avoid potential for corrosion or erratic contact. The original wire bundle has a heavy wrap of electrical tape at the corner. The new RPS harness is zip-tied to it at several points up from the bottom but is otherwise exposed at that corner. I should have either taped it there or run it on the inside of the bundle instead of on the outside. I left the original RPS harness in place in the wire bundle so can swap that RPS back in but have to replace the motor board.
Enjoyed all the pictures. The dryer looks smaller than the typical FL one, yet the capacity shows 6.2, so it's not really that much smaller. Is it just an optical illusion?
Does the reversing action really reduce tangling on things like sheets?
Does the reversing action really reduce tangling on things like sheets?
It is smaller than what's typical nowadays, especially the 8.8 and 9 cu. ft. models that are available from some brands. The service manual states 6.5 cu. ft. (but the AeroSmart model number nomenclature references 6.2). I've always found it able to take a full washer load although the limit is pushed on occasion by my extra-large towels/socks/kitchen linens loads.
Reverse tumble seems effective. There's no way to watch the tumble action with the drum being sealed closed during operation. A single large item such as a quilt or bedspread doesn't roll-up to have any remaining damp areas. The one time I dried a queen-size quilt in the WP 27" Calypso-match dryer on the designated Bulky cycle ... no such joy.
The drum rotates at 47 RPM during drying. 4 mins forward tumble, 40 seconds reverse, repeated throughout drying and cool down. Cool down is to 95°F or 10 mins max on auto-sense. 5 mins on 20 mins timed, 10 mins on 40 and 80 mins timed. Anti-wrinkle function tumbles 30 seconds every 5 mins (direction reverses for each tumble period) to a maximum of 255 cycles (approx 23 hrs). 20 RPM when searching for "home" position to prepare for door opening. 5 RPM after "home" is found until the door unlatches and the drum stops, which is via stalling at the end of the door's travel range.
Found this article about the development of these dryers, not really sure who the audience was for this but it's fascinating.
A feature I like is auto lint accumulator which is discussed on page 23. At certain times of the day the sun shines though my basement windows and when I clean the lint filter on my Maytag dryer you can see the lint go flying! No wonder the basement gets dusty.
The detail on the auto-dry is great too. It's funny, we had a GE dryer with auto-dry when I was growing up but my mother never used it. She taught me just to use timed dry and the amount of time for jeans, towels, mixed loads, etc. I have no idea why she didn't use it. After that I used coin laundry and the first time I used auto-dry was when I bought this house with an older 1987 Maytag dryer. I was actually surprised when it worked almost perfectly. I've changed the drum rollers and belt and it's still working fine.
http://media.datatail.com/docs/manual/45296_en.pdf
A feature I like is auto lint accumulator which is discussed on page 23. At certain times of the day the sun shines though my basement windows and when I clean the lint filter on my Maytag dryer you can see the lint go flying! No wonder the basement gets dusty.
The detail on the auto-dry is great too. It's funny, we had a GE dryer with auto-dry when I was growing up but my mother never used it. She taught me just to use timed dry and the amount of time for jeans, towels, mixed loads, etc. I have no idea why she didn't use it. After that I used coin laundry and the first time I used auto-dry was when I bought this house with an older 1987 Maytag dryer. I was actually surprised when it worked almost perfectly. I've changed the drum rollers and belt and it's still working fine.
http://media.datatail.com/docs/manual/45296_en.pdf
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