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Hmmmm

Gary
bet hubby would be DELIGHTED to use the Hotpoint as daily driver, non of that pesky switching off when boiled LOLOLOL Whilst I think the Russell Hobbs is a classic (and watch what they go for on ebay!) I have to take issue with you on the reliabality - yours is an earlier model than the one I bought in 1977 when I left home - lasted until 1981 grrrrrrrr. Still, would love another one even just for display. I believe Simon has teh original 1950s version
Al
 
Kettle Wars

Hello AL

Before this one we had a Siemens porsche desgned one, and for a modern kettle that lasted well (5 yrs), but when it died i was straight up in the loft pulling out another Russell Hobbs a few words back and forth later it was cleaned and installed ;-), it is the same as this one except it is the stainless steel one.

If you want that one you are welcome to it (i have collected a few over the years) it works perfectly

I like old electric kettles, i always nab em at work if they come in i have a few others

I also picked up a 1980s i think, russell hobbs KB series beige body with flowers on it and brown handle one just for posterity i have no passion for the decorated kettles but it is in good condition

Gary
 
Thanks Gary

Funny enough I have just started using Siemens Porsche kettle and toaster myself - bought just after last Christmas - I LOVE John Lewis clearence sale :) And I would love a RH as well thank you very much and if you would have a Swan whistling kettle too ..... Well if you dont ask you dont get LOLOLOLOL
Al
 
Kettles

Hello Al

thats fine matey send me an email, they are nice the siemens range, the coffee machine is pretty mega too, but when you look at the cost they should last , i know that some of the cost is down to design and styling, trouble is there are so many cheap lookalikes ;-(...........ah well enjoy them.

I have a swan electric kettle no whistle though, that is very old aswell, no lid fill through the spout, non auto, weighs a ton again super quiet
 
Hotpoint Liberator De Luxe 1851-03

Thanks Gary for posting the photos of the Hotpoint kettle, so much better the old stuff, it’s made to last almost a life time and can be repaired with some careful modification of other parts, compared to today’s offerings made of plastic and poor quality electronics, I think that modern electronics are programmed to self-destruct after the warranty has expired or as you have noted earlier it’s working at it’s maximum operating parameter and just cant take it.

It’s a great sham we now live in a through away society.

Well I have nothing to say about the liberator at the moment, just waiting for some better weather, so I can sort the pressure switch which I have totally messed up and it’s to cold to paint anything.
 
pressure switches

Hello LEE

Glad you like the kettle, i am always attracted to these old ones, and to date every one i have brought back has worked with no leaks and hasnt killed me.

Now you have the wiring diagrams the pressure switches will be a lot easier to set up, normally F1 (fill 1) is the low level and F2 is the high level, if you get a meter and blow in the pipe you will be able to see which set of contacts relate to the first click (low level) and blow a bit harder for the second click (high level), i used to try and do this sort of thing blind, it took me ages..........basically which ever screw is turned in the most will be the higher level of the two. see it is easy innit :-)
 
Hotpoint Liberator De Luxe 1851-03

I have collected some Russell Hobbs bit’s from the late 70’s with the poppy design on, I have an automatic coffee pot, milk warmer and two toasters, one which pops the toast like butterfly wings out of the sides which has ceramic side tiles and the other one is like a normal pop up with enamel sides. The toasters cook the best toast ever, very even toasting all over

Back to the pressure switch.
Me thinks I have knackered it by messing around too much, the level one switch dose not click as it should, maybe I have turned the adjuster screw too far in and the hysteresis adjusters are in too far as well, the dam screws have been gulped up with glue and don’t turn very well. Something to play with when the nagging starts agene and solitude is craved.
 
RH

they made some good gear over the years, the side toasters are brilliant, i had a 1930s one that only did one side at a time, when you dropped the sides the bread slid down and turned itself so that when you closed them it was on the other side.

Just turn the screws out, if you look carefully you might be able to see the marks left by the glue, the sensitivity screw might be a luttle more time consuing to set as you need a dry load (or a well spun wet load) each time to check out their operation, if it is stuffed i have loads of dual level pressure switches, so you can have one of them to play with ;-)

Ps if the screws are very stiff, i heated up a flat bladed screw driver and pushed it into the screw, hey presto it turned without the screw driver blade slipping, a bt of wiggle and it came out same with the other screw.
 
Hotpoint Liberator De Luxe 1851-03

Thanks Gary, great tip, heating flat bladed screw driver.

How I have set the sensitivity settings in the past is to hose up the machine and then let it fill, then lower the drain hose to allow some water out and see what level it is when the valves kick in. I’m looking for level 1 to fill just to the lip of the door glass or Perspex in this case and to recall when it’s just below the lip of the door seal at the tub, level 2 maybe an inch or too higher with a recall just at the base of the Perspex.

Well it’s up to warmer weather now to try!!

hotpoint95622++11-30-2010-12-31-13.jpg
 
Warmer Weather

Well Lee looking at the forecast (normally a waste of time) i will be going to the garage Friday, 5 day 5 night

Im like a bloody hermit at present dont want to go out, loft is too cold work in as well.

dropping the hose and letting a bit of water out is good way of checking the top up function, when ever i have adjusted the screws i nearly always find 1/2 a turn is enough for fine tuning

Rusell Hobbs bits

Nice matey all in escellent condition aswell, be good for your "bottom draw" :-)
 
k1

Yep, was lucky enough to find one at a car booter in Brighton for a fiver! It's currently on display at the Science Museum in London.

Unlike the K2, the switch isn't designed to be turned off by hand, once pushed in it's almost impossible to pop it out without boiling the kettle. I'd love to know why these were only built for a short time.

 
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