customline
Well-known member
It's Great !!!
Did you get a soap cup with it?
Did you get a soap cup with it?
Look what Hobart made
- Thread starter sudsmaster
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Greg,
Thanks for the synopsis of the wash cycle. I'm going to have to check out the timer, as well. The "Start" switch also needs work. I understand it's sort of a safety interlock, but it must be missing a piece, since the machine will start with the start switch in the up "off" position. The machine itself starts when the dial is set to wash and the handle is swiveled closed/locked. The locking depresses a switch which in turn supplies power to the timer/unit. However I can hear the thing give out a hum even when the lid is not locked, but the unit is plugged in.
Yes, it only came with the racks you see. I was wondering about the upper rack... I figured it must be something having to do with better washing action in the middle than on the sides, or something. Anyway, I guess I'll be on the lookout for some side racks... but I might have to make some myself. Rright now I can see a good usage for all the depth in this thing, minus the upper side racks, such as - washing the drip tray for the gas BBQ/rotisserie, which lives just outside the patio kitchen where this is residing.
Thanks for the synopsis of the wash cycle. I'm going to have to check out the timer, as well. The "Start" switch also needs work. I understand it's sort of a safety interlock, but it must be missing a piece, since the machine will start with the start switch in the up "off" position. The machine itself starts when the dial is set to wash and the handle is swiveled closed/locked. The locking depresses a switch which in turn supplies power to the timer/unit. However I can hear the thing give out a hum even when the lid is not locked, but the unit is plugged in.
Yes, it only came with the racks you see. I was wondering about the upper rack... I figured it must be something having to do with better washing action in the middle than on the sides, or something. Anyway, I guess I'll be on the lookout for some side racks... but I might have to make some myself. Rright now I can see a good usage for all the depth in this thing, minus the upper side racks, such as - washing the drip tray for the gas BBQ/rotisserie, which lives just outside the patio kitchen where this is residing.
Customline,
"Soap cup"? Nope. I was wondering just how one is supposed to add detergent to this thing. Can you describe what the soap cup is like, so I could maybe fashion something similar that would work just as well?
I was just going to throw some DW detergent in the bottom and hope for the best
.
"Soap cup"? Nope. I was wondering just how one is supposed to add detergent to this thing. Can you describe what the soap cup is like, so I could maybe fashion something similar that would work just as well?
I was just going to throw some DW detergent in the bottom and hope for the best
.
Almost forgot the best part!
Closeup of Handle with proud "By Hobart" emblazoned upon it:
Closeup of Handle with proud "By Hobart" emblazoned upon it:
And here is "Hobo" on the bricks...
Please note the grating built into the top of the handle assembly. These openings are for steam/moist air to be exhausted. The intake is low in the tub, shielded by a louver built into the tub.
Please note the grating built into the top of the handle assembly. These openings are for steam/moist air to be exhausted. The intake is low in the tub, shielded by a louver built into the tub.
cvillewasherbo
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 3, 2006
- Messages
- 171
I am absolutely in love with your DW--and jealous too.
Congratulations Rich, that's a real cutey!
Rich, yea, getting to the start switch, could be a bit of a "B*&^CH" The start switch basically and literally pushes the timer and/or advances it slightly forward so that the machine will start which you could manually do. Maybe the rod that connects between the start switch and timer is "bent" ??
I don't understand why there is a "hum" still if the lid is open ???
I don't understand why there is a "hum" still if the lid is open ???
Thanks, Louis.
Greg,
Well, once I finish my taxes I'll start opening up the 'Bart. I was told that this machine was worked on once before, and was working ok. But I suspect that the work may not have been all the "kosher" so who knows what I'll find (and I don't have a good idea of what it should look like anyway).
A broken rod would be relatively simple to repair.
The humming is another matter. It could just be the timer being energized all the time.
Greg,
Well, once I finish my taxes I'll start opening up the 'Bart. I was told that this machine was worked on once before, and was working ok. But I suspect that the work may not have been all the "kosher" so who knows what I'll find (and I don't have a good idea of what it should look like anyway).
A broken rod would be relatively simple to repair.
The humming is another matter. It could just be the timer being energized all the time.
Totally cool! I always wondered when Hobart started building Kitchenaid home dishwashers. This one looks like one of the earliest models. Definitely a piece of history. it's in such wonderful shape!!!
It's amazing how fast dishwasher technology moved in the early years!
It's amazing how fast dishwasher technology moved in the early years!
I had an opportunity to start the Hobart inspection/restoration process today.
First I put down a double layer of corrugated cardboard down on the brick floor to protect the finish. Then I removed all the racks, spray arm (heavy), and filters. I gently lay the machine on its back.
Underneath is a galvanized steel pan, open at the corners. About six screws held it to the base, and was easily removed.
Underneath I could see the blower, pump motor, and timer, valves and other controls. My time was taken up going to the hardware store and looking for bigger wheels. The current casters are 1.25" dia, on threaded 5/16" stems. I'm planning to upgrade them to 2-1/3 or 3" wheels, but these sizes come with 3/8" dia shafts, so I'll either have look for ones with smaller shafts, or drill out the sheet metal under the machine. I hesitate to do that because it's porcelain coated, and I don't like to break that protection if I can avoid it. There's a caster store in town that I'll check in with before I start surgery.
It does look like the rod from the Start switch isn't working right - at least it doesn't move with the switch. That will take some more work - I'll probably have to remove the handle assembly to get at the source of that issue.
I didn't get a chance to take photos, but I'll try to get some in the next few days. The pump itself is kind of interesting. It looks like it shoots water up through its central shaft, but that's all I can figure out at the moment. It actually looks like the impeller housing is ABS or some similar sturdy plastic, not bakelight, so I'm thinking the actual impeller might be nylon or other fracture-resistant material. At this point it will be some major work taking the impeller/pump housing apart to get at the impeller, so I'm putting that off until I can do some more diagnostics on what's not working right (translation - turn it on while all the access panels are off, and observe).
That's all for now. Have to get some rest.
First I put down a double layer of corrugated cardboard down on the brick floor to protect the finish. Then I removed all the racks, spray arm (heavy), and filters. I gently lay the machine on its back.
Underneath is a galvanized steel pan, open at the corners. About six screws held it to the base, and was easily removed.
Underneath I could see the blower, pump motor, and timer, valves and other controls. My time was taken up going to the hardware store and looking for bigger wheels. The current casters are 1.25" dia, on threaded 5/16" stems. I'm planning to upgrade them to 2-1/3 or 3" wheels, but these sizes come with 3/8" dia shafts, so I'll either have look for ones with smaller shafts, or drill out the sheet metal under the machine. I hesitate to do that because it's porcelain coated, and I don't like to break that protection if I can avoid it. There's a caster store in town that I'll check in with before I start surgery.
It does look like the rod from the Start switch isn't working right - at least it doesn't move with the switch. That will take some more work - I'll probably have to remove the handle assembly to get at the source of that issue.
I didn't get a chance to take photos, but I'll try to get some in the next few days. The pump itself is kind of interesting. It looks like it shoots water up through its central shaft, but that's all I can figure out at the moment. It actually looks like the impeller housing is ABS or some similar sturdy plastic, not bakelight, so I'm thinking the actual impeller might be nylon or other fracture-resistant material. At this point it will be some major work taking the impeller/pump housing apart to get at the impeller, so I'm putting that off until I can do some more diagnostics on what's not working right (translation - turn it on while all the access panels are off, and observe).
That's all for now. Have to get some rest.
nylon ???
I doubt the impeller housing is plastic, possible I guess, but I would much rather guess bakelite (very easy to break and shatter but heatproof) whereas this is from '57. I would like to think the actual impeller is metal but I honestly don't remember when I had my '63 apart.
I doubt the impeller housing is plastic, possible I guess, but I would much rather guess bakelite (very easy to break and shatter but heatproof) whereas this is from '57. I would like to think the actual impeller is metal but I honestly don't remember when I had my '63 apart.
Bottoms Up
Here's a shot of the nether region of the Hobart/KA...
From left to right, the shiny cylinder is the air blower/heater, then in the middle is the pump with a strange chamber grafted onto it. To the right is some sort of junction box or solenoid. And just to the left of that, is a black painted cast iron tubular extension from the pump assembly, with a vintage lacquered or glue-covered cork stuck in it! I really wonder what's up with that...
Notice the nicely preserved full porcelain enamel finish inside and out. No cheesing out for Hobart in '57!
Here's a shot of the nether region of the Hobart/KA...
From left to right, the shiny cylinder is the air blower/heater, then in the middle is the pump with a strange chamber grafted onto it. To the right is some sort of junction box or solenoid. And just to the left of that, is a black painted cast iron tubular extension from the pump assembly, with a vintage lacquered or glue-covered cork stuck in it! I really wonder what's up with that...
Notice the nicely preserved full porcelain enamel finish inside and out. No cheesing out for Hobart in '57!
And it's a yo, ho, blow the man down...
A shot of the pristine heater element and blower fan.
A shot of the pristine heater element and blower fan.
And here is a look at what I'm calling the Drain Jar. The tube running off the top of it, I think that's going to the drain hole you can see in previous pictures on the interior of the washer. Then there is a side tube, with what looks in this pic like a white rubber seal, going off to the pump (I think).
Off to the right you can see some springs, a aolenoid, and assorted cams and levers, that seem to operate a valve to switch between recirculating and draining.
Good news... I was able to locate the part that connects to the sink faucet and quick connects to the fitting on the end of the Hobart hose. So I might actually be able to hook it up and see just what it's up to, under power, with a water source.
I'll be righting the machine later, and taking the back panel off, for another view of these innards.
Off to the right you can see some springs, a aolenoid, and assorted cams and levers, that seem to operate a valve to switch between recirculating and draining.
Good news... I was able to locate the part that connects to the sink faucet and quick connects to the fitting on the end of the Hobart hose. So I might actually be able to hook it up and see just what it's up to, under power, with a water source.
I'll be righting the machine later, and taking the back panel off, for another view of these innards.
PS-The original wheels are 1-1/4" diameter rubber casters, on 5/16" threaded stems. They are fine for smooth floors, but not good on the brick patio surface.
So I have on order, some 2-1/2" diameter wheels, also with 5/16" threaded stems, from the local caster emporium (yes, there is such a place in town!). Two will have "brakes", which I'll put in the front (the patio surface slants gently away from the countertop area. Good for drainage/hosing it down periodically, bad if stuff wants to roll). It will take a couple of weeks to get them, but it will be preferable to drilling out the existing holes in the porcelain steel to accomodate the more readily available 3/8" threaded stems.
So I have on order, some 2-1/2" diameter wheels, also with 5/16" threaded stems, from the local caster emporium (yes, there is such a place in town!). Two will have "brakes", which I'll put in the front (the patio surface slants gently away from the countertop area. Good for drainage/hosing it down periodically, bad if stuff wants to roll). It will take a couple of weeks to get them, but it will be preferable to drilling out the existing holes in the porcelain steel to accomodate the more readily available 3/8" threaded stems.
Bart Lives!!!
Well, other than waking up late this morning, and thinking it was really Easter Sunday and I was late for brunch, it's been a good day.
After assuaging a caffeine headache with a cup o', I venture out into the patio kitchen for another go at Bart.
Removing about 20 screws revealed the backside of the works. In there I could see that someone had replaced the water valve. Good.
I purged the hot water tap - only about 10 feet away from the water heater - and hooked up the quick connect to the kitchen faucet. Then I inserted only the cast iron spray arm, plugged the cord in, and set the control to wash. It filled nicely, but drained as soon as it started washing. Which made for a very short wash cycle.
Closer inspection showed that while the solenoid to switch the valve between wash and drain was working, quite audibly, the valve itself was stuck. I was able to loosen it up manually, and squirted some WD-40 on the works for good measure. After working it back and forth a bit more, I was able to confirm that it worked under solenoid/spring action well enough to proceed.
I was able to run a full wash cycle with appropriate steps. These are much as Greg has already described:
1) Simultaneous fill/drain for purging.
2) Fill and then wash with no drain.
3) Drain (with wash pump still going).
4) Fill for 1st rinse.
5) Rinse.
6) Drain.
7) Fill for second rinse.
8) Second rinse.
9) Drain (might be simultaneous with second rinse, not sure).
10) Heated air dry.
At first I didn't think the heater blower was working, but either it has a thermostat for the fan, or the fan bearing grease just needed to warm up a bit. The fan started turning with a relatively gentle flow of air through the body of the machine.
Pics to follow.
Well, other than waking up late this morning, and thinking it was really Easter Sunday and I was late for brunch, it's been a good day.
After assuaging a caffeine headache with a cup o', I venture out into the patio kitchen for another go at Bart.
Removing about 20 screws revealed the backside of the works. In there I could see that someone had replaced the water valve. Good.
I purged the hot water tap - only about 10 feet away from the water heater - and hooked up the quick connect to the kitchen faucet. Then I inserted only the cast iron spray arm, plugged the cord in, and set the control to wash. It filled nicely, but drained as soon as it started washing. Which made for a very short wash cycle.
Closer inspection showed that while the solenoid to switch the valve between wash and drain was working, quite audibly, the valve itself was stuck. I was able to loosen it up manually, and squirted some WD-40 on the works for good measure. After working it back and forth a bit more, I was able to confirm that it worked under solenoid/spring action well enough to proceed.
I was able to run a full wash cycle with appropriate steps. These are much as Greg has already described:
1) Simultaneous fill/drain for purging.
2) Fill and then wash with no drain.
3) Drain (with wash pump still going).
4) Fill for 1st rinse.
5) Rinse.
6) Drain.
7) Fill for second rinse.
8) Second rinse.
9) Drain (might be simultaneous with second rinse, not sure).
10) Heated air dry.
At first I didn't think the heater blower was working, but either it has a thermostat for the fan, or the fan bearing grease just needed to warm up a bit. The fan started turning with a relatively gentle flow of air through the body of the machine.
Pics to follow.
Bart's backside revealed
A shot of the dw with back access panel(s) removed...
A shot of the dw with back access panel(s) removed...
Wash Drain valve
This is the one that was sticking. You can see the somewhat rusty springs that help the valve move to proper position - the solenoid is connected to the upper spring, which in turn moves the valve lever up, or down, which in turn pushes the valve stem rod in, or out.
In this photo, the valve cam and valve rod are to the right, the solenoid to the upper right, and the springs to the far right.
This is the one that was sticking. You can see the somewhat rusty springs that help the valve move to proper position - the solenoid is connected to the upper spring, which in turn moves the valve lever up, or down, which in turn pushes the valve stem rod in, or out.
In this photo, the valve cam and valve rod are to the right, the solenoid to the upper right, and the springs to the far right.
