Looking for a motor for Highlander

[backlash]

I have a Maytag Highlander - we're pretty sure that's what it is, MOD 126, 115v, 7.0 amp, 60 cyc. - that began to smoke from the drain holes in the tub last week while filling for a load. The smoke seemed to be mainly coming from the right side, and the bottom of the tub was warm when I pulled the clothes out; I had it in cold wash. It was agitating just fine, except for the burn electrical smell & smoke, lol.

I tilted it up as far as possible, but could see no leaks. All of the repair/parts places want at least $50 for a service call, and the motor is $160!! Is there anyplace I can get schematics or service manuals for this? The Maytag folks were no help.

 

[goatfarmer]

Single speed? Two speed?

 

[volvoguy87]

Pump?

The motor on your washer is probably in the front left corner. If so, the pump would be in the front right corner. These Maytags work by having the motor turn one way for agitation and then reverse for spinning and draining. This means that the pump also changes direction. Check and see if your pump is seized.

The motor is on a sliding spring-loaded mount. To check the pump and belts, tilt the machine back (laying it on its back is not necessary) and prop it SECURELY in place. This will release tension on the belts on the bottom of the machine. The double pulley is the motor, the big pulley in the center is the transmission, and the small single pulley in the corner is the pump. Pull off the belts, since they will be slack, and give the pump pulley a few turns by hand. Will it move? If it moves easily, your pump is probably fine, unless it is leaking. Replacing the pump is pretty easy, it is a commonly available part and it's not very expensive. Put the belts back on in the same order in which you removed them.

This would be a very good, and easy, time to install new drive belts. Replacing Maytag drive belts is probably the easiest repair in the history of appliances. Get a pair for the Helical drive transmission, not the newer Orbital drive used from the mid 1980s on. Belts are plentiful and not too expensive. Use only genuine Maytag brand belts because they are specially made to act as a clutch. If you do not use Maytag brand belts, they will not work as a clutch and the motor will overheat. This is essential on the transmission drive, but I do not know if the pump belt also acts as a clutch.

There are a few older models of Maytag that have the same guts as the later (up to mid 1980s) models, BUT are designed to be serviced from behind, rather than from the front. If your machine is one of these, your pump and motor will not be on the front of the washer, but the parts (pump, belts, etc.) are the same.

Please post a photo of your washer so we can confirm what type it is and offer you the most accurate advice possible. Whatever is wrong, it is definitely worth fixing. This washer is at least 40 years old and even with that many years of use, will still outlast a new one.

Best of luck,
Dave

 

[swestoyz]

Dave has some good advice - this one is interesting. The 126 was an early Highlander series machine that ran from 1959 to 1961, so the motor will be on the right rear side, and the pump will be on the left rear side (facing the machine from the front). Curious to see if you can spin the motor by hand, or the pump. From behind tilt her forward to see if you can spin either.

Ben

 

[swestoyz]

Woops - Kenny this little guy would have been a two speed machine from the factory. More than likely it has the glide base and not the cradle-pivot pin mount being that it is a little bit later than the 123/124, making for an easy swap from any two speed Maytag made since.

 

[volvoguy87]

Aha! An older model!

It looks like yours is designed to be serviced from the rear instead of the front. Oh well! There are some pictures in a recent thread [Thread# 18559 Work on the A502] of the guts of this type of washer. I can't imagine a reason why you would need to remove the cabinet, however.

Good luck,
Dave