Maytag A106 Project

[79maytaga106]

Hello everybody. Long time visitor, and finally opened an account!

I am in the process of acquiring all the parts to refurbish my Maytag A106, built in 1979. I have looked up several threads regarding this style of washer, and feel confidant I can perform needed repairs. A spanner wrench, and brake tool are in my toolbox. Any other specialty tools I should consider?

I plan on going all the way with this machine, because of not being impressed with the longevity, and quality of what's currently on the market. The tub seal, bearing and all looks straightforward. The transmission looks tedious, but I'm up for the challenge. I have very little oil staining on the inside of the cabinet, but the lower seal is beginning to leak. I would like to address this before NLA parts are damaged.
The machine currently works just fine with a minor knocking during the first few seconds of agitation. No other strange noises. The only part I've not been able to locate is part 210183 groove pin. Does anyone have a source, or know the size specs for this particular groove pin. Also what is a good way to drive it out, and install a new one? I appreciate advice, and tips from the Maytag experts on here!

What I've done so far is pull the agitator, clean, and inspect the parts under it. The agitator actually popped of easily after 5 minutes of having a hair dryer blowing down it. I also pulled the front cover to inspect the inner workings, and didn't see evidence of any water leaks. This a more of an attempt to preserve what I've got, before it's too late, because we all know I can't just run down to the appliance store and pick up a brand new A106!

Below is a link to how this washing machine looks, ans is currently functioning.

 

[eurekastar]

Very nice!  I look forward to seeing the finished work.  It already looks to be in good shape but doing those basic service items will keep it going for years to come.

 

[79maytaga106]

Thank you! I have a lot of parts on order, and will get started once I get everything in. Hopefully I can locate the groove pin soon. I added a picture of my parts collection so far.

 

[swestoyz]

APCO parts has a few of the groove pins in stock. However, unless there is a need to disassemble the agitator shaft from the top half of the transmission, I’d recommend leaving it be. Typically if everything looks good I flush out the bearing through the lubrication passage and lubricate the upper case bearing with some zoom spout oil. If you do decide to take it apart I’d recommend replacing the spring washer with a new one. 15902 or Y015902.

The knock might be from a lack of oil and play in the spring washer. Otherwise, everything looks CLEAN.

Ben

https://www.appliancepartscompany.com/product/11207113

 

[79maytaga106]

Thanks for the leads on the p/n's, Ben! I'll just go ahead, and order them before they become NLA. It's been knocking like that for years, and hasn't gotten any worse. I really want to crack it open to at least see what the oil looks like after 40 years. I have a bottle of 56080 on the way, and a new gasket. Do you know what the torque specs are for the perimeter bolts?

 

[Ultramatic]

A handsome machine...

 

 

But then again I am partial to center dial Maytags! I am a bit confused though. Weren't Maytags using the gold panel by 1979?

 

[good-shepherd]

Also what is a good way to drive it out, and install

I think I've reused the drive pin.

Although, as mentioned it's not really critical to remove the agitator shaft if in good shape with no play.
Flushing and making sure to get trans oil up there will suffice.

This seems to be more of preventive maintenance job as the machine looks to be good condition over all. The lower trans oil seal o-ring along with the mounting stem and damper pads are items that usually take priority. You may even be able to reuse the tub bearing and just replace the sleeve, the older design was better anyway with a wicking that could be re-lubed.

 

[goatfarmer]

Good luck with it!

 

[appnut]

using the gold panel by 1979?

Louie, I remember the 106 models still used the blue panel in 1979.  Anyone have a near-the-end brochure from Maytag showing this for sure?

 

[lowefficiency]

**IF** you remove the groove pin on the agitator shaft, you have to be extremely careful when you do so.

On later years of these transmissions, that gear is a sintered metal part, so it is not as durable as a solid machined gear would be. One wrong strike with the punch, or not supporting the gear properly, and you could easily crack or break the gear.

In the case of our A308, removal of this pin was necessary as the agitator shaft was binding in the case. We made a sacrificial wooden support to hold the gear (and transmission half) while removing the pin, so that the fixture would yield before the gear. It worked, but it took considerable force and our groove pin came out in pieces.

With the binding shaft, we didn't have the option to leave ours together. Having taken it apart, I would agree with the others to leave yours together if it feels OK- It's just not worth the risk!

 

[Ultramatic]

Thanks Bob...

 

 

How strange they used 2 distinct color panels.

 

[79maytaga106]

Ok thanks everybody for the suggestions! Very much appreciated! I'll go ahead and plan on leaving the agitator shaft alone, and just lube it as described above. I won't know the condition for sure until it's opened up for inspection. I located and ordered a NOS agitator shaft, pinion gear, and other related parts to have on hand, just in case. As I was looking at various parts sites, I noticed many parts were discontinued last year, so I'd rather be safe than sorry.

I have a damper pad kit, and adhesive on the way as well. Yes this is totally a preventive maintenance procedure. After 40 years of excellent service, I think it's time, and really do not want to replace this washer, even though it is BOL. It's been family owned since new. I just love the simplicity of it, not many bells and whistles, less to break. Just gets the job done, very well, day in, day out, and that's all I want.

I will continue to study previous threads on the subject, while waiting for all parts to arrive. This site is a goldmine of information! I've also downloaded the service manual to study up on, and understand the service procedures. One thing I'm confused about is in the service literature it states to lube the carbon seal on the boot with a thin layer of transmission fluid. On the new seal I got, it states to make sure the seals are clean and dry. How do I proceed with that?

Does anyone know what color that blue is on the control panel? I'd like to repaint that section the same color, or at least get close.

Plugging the data into Appliance411 dates manufacture during September of 1979!
I recall seeing some paperwork many years ago stating it was delivered to my Aunt, and Uncle in May of 1980.

 

[lowefficiency]

Where in the world did you find an agitator shaft for sale?

 

[lowefficiency]

This thread has a reference for a somewhat close blue paint option:

Is there a good source for Maytag pushbuttons?

The pushbuttons on both of my Maytag A-806 washers are yellowed and faded. The buttons on the second washer are worse (and it needs to be cleaned too!) but I'd like to get replacement buttons for both! So far, I was able to get one set of wash/rinse temp buttons in their package but...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[79maytaga106]

Ebay had two, yesterday. I bought one, and then shortly after someone else bought the other. Thanks for the paint color thread, I'll get a can!

 

[good-shepherd]

a thin layer of transmission fluid

Service manual states "transmission oil", i.e. Maytag trans oil.

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?22830

Since the new seal is a revised design you may want to follow the included instructions, but I'm not 100% sure on that.

Last one I did with the new lip seal design was installed clean and dry, so far no leaks.

On the other hand, is it safe to reuse the old design mounting stem with a new agitator seal and boot, since the newer triple lip seals are known to fail more often??

Service manual says yes if no signs of water seepage.

 

[eurekastar]

The paint recommended by LowEfficiency (Dave) is a perfect choice!  I used it on my A407 rebuild and it worked out perfectly.  I also painted the upper portion of the console with Whirlpool Appliance Paint.  The worst part is masking everything off! 

 

[79maytaga106]

Thanks for the clarification good-shepherd!

Dang, eurekastar that control panel really pops! Can't wait to get mine to that condition.

If all goes well I plan to start the project in the next week or two.

 

[yogitunes]

I still say they should have matched the control panel's lower color to the actual color of the machine....

the blue compliments a white body, as it sort of has a bluish/gray hint to it...

I think if I had any other color than white, I would change that to match, just for a different look....especially on a matched set....