Good luck on your upcoming project. My Maytag 511, I bought new in 1984 with the matching 410 dryer, has worked flawlessly with just a $28 repair and none on the dryer. Thankfully, I have a repair guy that knows these machines inside out.
Maytag A106 Project
- Thread starter 79maytaga106
- Start date
79maytaga106
Active member
good-shepherd Heck yeah we got our moneys worth! No way those electronic controls on the modern stuff will still be around in 40 years. That's the impression I got about the newer seal, after reading all the threads possible about these machines.
Thank you wayupnorth! I hope yours continue working well for many years.
Here is what I worked on this evening, the control panel!
I completely disassembled, and gave it a bath. After it dried, it careully got masked off. Then used some plastic prep, followed by adhesion promoter, base coat, and finally clear coat. Not perfect, but looks much better. I'd like to find a button set for the temperature control, a new "MAYTAG" emblem decal, and a new dial face.
Thank you wayupnorth! I hope yours continue working well for many years.
Here is what I worked on this evening, the control panel!
I completely disassembled, and gave it a bath. After it dried, it careully got masked off. Then used some plastic prep, followed by adhesion promoter, base coat, and finally clear coat. Not perfect, but looks much better. I'd like to find a button set for the temperature control, a new "MAYTAG" emblem decal, and a new dial face.
Reply # 29 Triple lip Agitator shaft seals
Hi Douglas, I have never seen the newer TLS fail except in cases where one was installed on a machine with a rusted pitted agitator shaft.
There are LOTS of MT DC washers with leaks in the main seal area from the 80s on to the end of these great machines in 2006, but they are leaking in the main seal area. We still buy the mounting stem and seal kits by the dozen and repair several leaking MT DC washers every month.
A triple lip seal is a superior type of water seal to the crude seal that MT used on their older machines, almost every type of washer, automobile, airplane and on and on uses a lip type seal, you almost never see any type of seal like these older type seals used by MT used on anything any longer.
MT changed to these TLSs because they believed they were better and I have seen no problems with them.
John L.
Hi Douglas, I have never seen the newer TLS fail except in cases where one was installed on a machine with a rusted pitted agitator shaft.
There are LOTS of MT DC washers with leaks in the main seal area from the 80s on to the end of these great machines in 2006, but they are leaking in the main seal area. We still buy the mounting stem and seal kits by the dozen and repair several leaking MT DC washers every month.
A triple lip seal is a superior type of water seal to the crude seal that MT used on their older machines, almost every type of washer, automobile, airplane and on and on uses a lip type seal, you almost never see any type of seal like these older type seals used by MT used on anything any longer.
MT changed to these TLSs because they believed they were better and I have seen no problems with them.
John L.
good-shepherd
Well-known member
LOTS of MT DC washers with leaks in the main seal area
Interesting, what is the flaw with the main seal causing the leaks in that era?
Also, would less than perfect agitator shafts be better off repaired with the older style seal if possible?
Interesting, what is the flaw with the main seal causing the leaks in that era?
Also, would less than perfect agitator shafts be better off repaired with the older style seal if possible?
Maytag DC Main Seal Problems
The two common reasons that the main bellow part of the seal leaks are the outer top edge of the spin bearing housing gets rusty or has excessive rubber flashing on it and the bellow part of the seal cannot move freely up and down and therefore can not maintain pressure against the bottom of the mounting stems sealing surface.
The other big problem with the mounting stem hub is MT cheapened it by replacing the SS insert with a plastic one and the plastic sealing surface wears out and can no longer seal properly.
It is possible that the older seal may work a little better with a less than perfect agitator shaft, but I sure can't tell why if you look at how its designed.
John L.
The two common reasons that the main bellow part of the seal leaks are the outer top edge of the spin bearing housing gets rusty or has excessive rubber flashing on it and the bellow part of the seal cannot move freely up and down and therefore can not maintain pressure against the bottom of the mounting stems sealing surface.
The other big problem with the mounting stem hub is MT cheapened it by replacing the SS insert with a plastic one and the plastic sealing surface wears out and can no longer seal properly.
It is possible that the older seal may work a little better with a less than perfect agitator shaft, but I sure can't tell why if you look at how its designed.
John L.
79maytaga106
Active member
Ok today I spent the evening dissembling the Maytag washer. Everything went smoothly, and there were no surprises. I am cleaning, and painting at this point. There are some minor rust areas on the inside of the outer tub, and they will be coated with POR 15. Is it recommended to coat the concrete looking area of the wash basket with POR 15 as well? I swear I read about someone doing that on one of these threads, but can't find it at the moment.
I re oiled the old tub bearing, because it is still in great condition. I peeled back the rubber, and filled it with turbine oil until the wicking material could absorb no more oil. It took quite a bit! I cleaned up the rubber with 303, and it's still flexible.
The last item of the day was going to be damper pads, but unfortunately the adhesive has gone bad. Is there an equivalent off the shelf adhesive available? I also have a partial tube of FSP 279368 adhesive, left over from when I replaced the rear drum seal on my Kenmore dryer, and it is still liquid. Would this be an appropriate adhesive to use? Thanks.
I re oiled the old tub bearing, because it is still in great condition. I peeled back the rubber, and filled it with turbine oil until the wicking material could absorb no more oil. It took quite a bit! I cleaned up the rubber with 303, and it's still flexible.
The last item of the day was going to be damper pads, but unfortunately the adhesive has gone bad. Is there an equivalent off the shelf adhesive available? I also have a partial tube of FSP 279368 adhesive, left over from when I replaced the rear drum seal on my Kenmore dryer, and it is still liquid. Would this be an appropriate adhesive to use? Thanks.
70series
Well-known member
Welcome to the group. I have seen your videos several times, and still enjoy them. I agree with John (Combo52), the smaller tub Maytags had great rollover, and were all you really needed. We had an A206 growing up, and what John said echos my parents reasoning behind buying the smaller basic model as opposed to the bells and whistles of a glitzier larger one. As my mother put it: "They all have the same motor".
Good luck on the refurb, and I look forward to more videos.
James
Good luck on the refurb, and I look forward to more videos.
James
good-shepherd
Well-known member
Would this be an appropriate adhesive
Maytag recommends #055978 adhesive.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?44861
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OE...1456?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0
Although there are other rubber adhesives that will work as well.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?54335
Maytag recommends #055978 adhesive.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?44861
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-OE...1456?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c1#viTabs_0
Although there are other rubber adhesives that will work as well.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?54335
good-shepherd
Well-known member
BTW
That tub bearing sleeve in photo 3 comes off.
Sometimes they get seized on the trans case to the point where it needs to be spit off with a chisel.
That tub bearing sleeve in photo 3 comes off.
Sometimes they get seized on the trans case to the point where it needs to be spit off with a chisel.
79maytaga106
Active member
Thank you,70series! I'm glad you enjoy my videos, I appreciate the views!
I've gotten a lot knocked out on this restore, but still a good bit to do.
good-shepherd, amazingly that sleeve came right off. No corrosion whatsoever! I couldn't believe it. That is the adhesive I had purchased, 055978 but it had already set up to the point it was unusable. I went ahead and used the high-temp adhesive I used for the dryer felt seal, and seems to have made a great bond for the damper pads. I let them dry for several hours, and then coated with the included poly-lube tubes.
I have had an unfortunate casualty, the oil cap for the main drive pulley. P/N 211038
It was very cracked up upon removal, and I didn't have high hopes of ever getting it back on. I was thinking it used to be more flexible, years ago, but it certainly isn't any longer. If someone has a lead, or an extra to sell, I'd sure appreciate it!
Here are a few pictures of my progress. I did make sure the lug was set correctly, too, in the 1/4-3/8 range! I started getting tired, so I called it a day.
I've gotten a lot knocked out on this restore, but still a good bit to do.
good-shepherd, amazingly that sleeve came right off. No corrosion whatsoever! I couldn't believe it. That is the adhesive I had purchased, 055978 but it had already set up to the point it was unusable. I went ahead and used the high-temp adhesive I used for the dryer felt seal, and seems to have made a great bond for the damper pads. I let them dry for several hours, and then coated with the included poly-lube tubes.
I have had an unfortunate casualty, the oil cap for the main drive pulley. P/N 211038
It was very cracked up upon removal, and I didn't have high hopes of ever getting it back on. I was thinking it used to be more flexible, years ago, but it certainly isn't any longer. If someone has a lead, or an extra to sell, I'd sure appreciate it!
Here are a few pictures of my progress. I did make sure the lug was set correctly, too, in the 1/4-3/8 range! I started getting tired, so I called it a day.
79maytaga106
Active member
Success! I did a dry run, and let it complete a spin cycle to set in the boot seal. Then I poured some water in for a wet test, no leaks! The tub is leaning to the left a little, so I'll work on adjusting the springs next. After all the bearings got settled in, it's amazingly quiet.
79maytaga106
Active member
Hi everyone,
Here is a full wash video of my Maytag A106 after reassembly, and being put back into service. It keeps running smoother, and quieter as all the new moving parts get broken in. I also finally located P/N 211038 rubber cap, and it should be here in a few days. Thanks again for all the advice. It certainly made the job go much easier!
Here is a full wash video of my Maytag A106 after reassembly, and being put back into service. It keeps running smoother, and quieter as all the new moving parts get broken in. I also finally located P/N 211038 rubber cap, and it should be here in a few days. Thanks again for all the advice. It certainly made the job go much easier!
Great job. My 1984 511 works and sounds exactly like yours. Thankfully mine has had nothing other than a new motor coupling and belts in 35 years and hope it lasts the rest of my life.
70series
Well-known member
Great job on the refurb, and an amazing video. Looked so much like the rough seas during wash and rinse that I could almost hear the Gilligan's Island theme. Well done.
Have a good one,
James
Have a good one,
James
79maytaga106
Active member
Thank you, Tim! I hope your '84 511 keeps on going for many years.
Thank you, James! Yep, the agitation is awesome. It was starting to have sluggish agitation before the refurb. You have a good one as well!
Thank you, James! Yep, the agitation is awesome. It was starting to have sluggish agitation before the refurb. You have a good one as well!
Sounds like it just left the factory floor in Newton! Congrats and great job!
Ben
Ben
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