Maytag A170 Skips Drain Cycle

[frank1492]

Hello,
My A170 Maytag skips the drain cycle and causes motor overheating when attempting the spin cycle.Timer seems likely but suppose it could be a bad connection. Any other ideas? Where should I start looking first? Many thanks. Frank

 

[combo52]

Maytag Washer Problem

No such thing as a A170 MT.

 

If the motor runs in wash it is not likely the timer, take the belts off and see if the motor runs in spin, 

 

John L.

 

[DADoES]

 
Also, to clarify further, there is no separate drain period on a vintage Maytag toploader.  The machine by design goes into spin with a full tub of water.  The belt functions as a clutch, slipping on the motor pulley until the water is out and the basket gets up to full speed.

 

[frank1492]

A107

Sorry A107 not A170

 

[frank1492]

More Info on A107 MT

The motor does run on spin. The spin begins slowly but the lights dim, the motor gets warm and trips the thermal cutoff. I did not know that spin and drain occur simultaneously and thought the full tub was causing the overload. It would sound like a bad motor except the agitation cycle is always normal. Any other ideas? Not going to give up on this old girl because I know all the trouble people are having with new machines!

 

[tomturbomatic]

How do you get the water to drain out of the machine? If the motor does not work in the reverse or spin direction, you need a new motor.

 

[arbilab]

Skuze me, I've only changed belts on Maytags, but if the motor runs one direction, the exact same windings are used for reverse.  Only the polarity of one winding changes, and the timer does that.  If the motor fails to start and only sits there growling, the current through the one winding that is working doubles, quickly overheats and trips off.

 

 

 

[DADoES]

 
<blockquote>Frank1492:  The motor does run on spin. The spin begins slowly but the lights dim, the motor gets warm and trips the thermal cutoff.</blockquote> Does the behavior occur when set to spin *without* water or clothes?  If so, remove the belts, set it to spin.  Same behavior?

Have you removed the machine's front panel to look for evidence of a bad tub seal/bearing ... such as obvious water dripping, telltale rust or a spattering around inside/down the sides of the cabinet at the level of the top of the transmission / bottom of the tub?

 

[lowefficiency]

>> The motor does run on spin. The spin begins slowly but the lights dim, the motor gets warm and trips
>> the thermal cutoff. I did not know that spin and drain occur simultaneously and thought the full tub
>> was causing the overload. It would sound like a bad motor except the agitation cycle is always normal.
>> Any other ideas?

Check for stuck clothing between the inner and outer tubs!

If a piece of clothing works its way in there, it can make the inner tub jam up, and the motor won't be able to turn it (or turn it fast enough), leading to the motor cutting out when it trips the thermal overload.

Here's a thread on my A209, which I bought with a similar issue. It had two socks stuck, one near the top of the tub, and another which had migrated half way down between the two tubs.

"Maytag A209 - Anyone missing a sock?"
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?79404

 

[eronie]

Is the motor carriage bound up? It has to slide to allow the belt to slip at the start of spin to allow for the pump out.

 

[bendixmark]

No Spin

What is this machine plugged into?You need 110 volts for that to spin.If the voltage were low it will act like that.Either that or the motor carriage is locked up and not allowing the belts to slip at the beginning of spin.If the voltage were low you may need to add a start capacitor to the motor to help it get going. Lights dimming is an indication the voltage is low.

 

[frank1492]

Further Info- A107

Thanks for comments, will address them later but just wanted to give you the latest. I have checked the inner tub rotation manually, no binding. With a couple of inches in the tub, the tub starts to spin slowly *and* the pump discharges water normally at the same time. Motor growls, lights dim. I figure with that little water (and weight) even if the belt did not slip properly at startup, the motor should not be overloaded. I will remove the belt to the tub and will check the line voltage, but I would say at this point all points to the motor. What do you think? Thank you all once again.

 

[frank1492]

More A107

I disconnected both belts and now the motor makes a sharp rattling sound. Runs normally, no excessive current. That doesn't suggest an electrical issue (or does it? or would it to have something to do with the carriage when the belts are not connected. I assume the carriage is the unit directly under the motor. Is the carriage easy to check for issues? If so, how?
In answer to comments, the line voltage is normal and the inner tub spins freely.
No water leaks at all including under the tub
.

 

[yogitunes]

with both belts off, the carriage springs still have tension pulling the motor fully backwards and causing the motors shaft to ride against the base plate causing a scraping/screeching noise....use a block of wood or just push it slightly forward...

depending on when your model was built the pulley may have to come off, and sometimes not, once you get the screws out, you will know which one you have......but anyway, there should be three tiny screws holding the carriage/motor to the base plate...pushing motor forward to gain access to the ones near the front, and then the one facing the rear...

have seen motors run fine on their own, or just hooked up to the belts....then an issue surfaces when you put the weight of clothing/water against it...just one of those crazy things...

 

[DADoES]

 
Have the belts been changed?  MUST use genuine Maytag belts, especially for the motor->transmission, so it slips properly for the clutch function.  Cannot substitute a "lawn mower" belt.

 

[frank1492]

A107

Belts have not been changed. To Yogitunes:
So the motor is not fixed. The carriage puts the motor under spring tension only, allowing the belt to slip while the tub overcomes inertia, is that about it? Now I also understand the motor noise with no belts.
So what would make the tub drive belt too tight on startup? I would think the only problem the carriage could have would be broken/disconnected springs in which case the belt would not grab at all. The motor wouldn't overheat that way.
So aren't we down to just two things: the motor runs fine to a certain load point, then overheats indicating an internal problem, or even tho no-load conditions show line voltage at 115, the motor under load pulls the line voltage way down- a house or external wiring issue. I will check for the latter. Had a problem like that once and it was a bad neutral at the pole.
Which do you think it is or is it something else I've missed? Thank you!

 

[frank1492]

Still More A107

The carriage works perfectly, travels smoothly. This time, with just a small amount of water in the tub and both belts attached, everything worked (spin and drain). Lights dimmed momentarily on motor start, normal behavior. I'm going to assume with full water and clothes, I'd have the original problem. All bearings (tub and drain pump) seem fine. So when the weight gets to a certain point, the motor can't handle the weight and overloads, drawing too much current, keeping lights dim and thermally cutting off. Have you ever seen this before?
Just to be 100% certain I will check the line voltage drop tomorrow, but I woul be pretty sure at this point that the motor is bad. Your comments?

 

[combo52]

MT Motor going Out On Overload At Spin Start

If the motor works for wash it is NOT a bad motor, take the main drive belt off and examine it, is it greasy and sticky ?, Is the cloth coating worn off making it grab too much ? make sure there is no grease-oil on the pulleys, if so clean them.

 

If voltage dips to around 100 volts at spin start add a motor start capacitor, if it dips below around 100 volts fix wiring-circuit problem with your home.

 

Sometimes making the the pump belt slightly tighter will take a little tension off the main drive belt and allow the motor to start for spin [ Note at spin start the motor should get up to full speed in one second, the only strain is on the main drive belt as the water pumps out and the basket gets up to speed ] Be careful not to tighten the pump belt too tight or it will slip too much with heavy loads durning agitation.

 

As you are learning MT washers used a mickey mouse belt tension-clutch system that they really did not fix till around 2000, but you should be able to get it to work fairly well with enough tinkering.

 

John L.

 

[eronie]

Bad wall outlet?