Hi Sean. Even if the markings on your timer are worn or illegible, you should be able to positively identify the terminals very quickly with a multimeter and the process of elimination.
Note that the timer has four terminals. The timer unit in the schematic shows three which are electrically connected, and a fourth at the bottom which has no internal connections to the timing blocks - just a convenient place to connect several external wires.
On your actual timer, the topmost connection has three lugs, so it appears to be that fourth unconnected terminal. The bottommost connection is the only one with two lugs, so it is likely to be the "Red / 9" connection on the schematic.
That leaves two single terminals left. ONE of those will have continuity to RED/9 if the knob is turned to the AIR FLUFF cycle, and the other will not. The one which does, is the "BLACK" terminal on the left side of the schematic. If you see continuity to both, or no continuity to either, you likely have the timer knob set in the wrong position.
For safety and peace of mind that you identified everything correctly, you can also (still with everything disconnected) check for continuity across the other terminals. The top connection (with the motor lead unhooked) shouldn't ever show continuity to any other terminal, regardless of the timer position. The remaining three terminals should show continuity or an open circuit with the other terminals according to the timer knob position and the logic depicted in the chart.
