Maytag A806 Tune Up

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joefuss1984

Well-known member
Platinum Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2011
Messages
358
Location
Little Rock, AR
Hello All!

I recently acquired this A806 at an estate sale in my town, half off on the last day. I am completely excited and hope to find the matching dryer at some point. It seems to be in pretty good shape considering her age. I thought I would first check the damper pads and lube them if needed. I think they may have been replaced once just looking at the mess of dried glue around the damper area. I did not see a service manual in our documentation library here, but I have hit my first stump. Does this hose come off of the bleach container so that the top will lift? Pics of machine and container attached.

SN: 738642UY

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Cosmetically, your new machine looks beautiful!  Except for the "Normal" load size button, they all look barely used.

 

I'm betting this turns out to be a great machine that needs little or no attention before you can start to enjoy it.
 
the gray hose can be removed from the top of the bleach cont

Yes, twist the hose to break the seal, then pull upward.
 
looking at the mess of dried glue around the damper area.

That mess of glue is normal factory install. Damper pads are probably original, hopefully intact, and dry as the Sahara.

Water stains looks like the tub cover seal may be leaking as well, rust/ corrosion on the pump and motor, otherwise not too bad for it's age, should clean up nicely.

Careful removing the bleach hose, it can weaken with age.
 
following the service manual.....

I removed the eye bolt from the front and marked with electrical tape its location for attaching it back. It then states that the pressure should be relieved from the two rear springs and to remove the springs from the eye bolt. I just cant unhook those rear springs. I am using a pair of pliers. Do I just not have the strength needed or is there a better way?
 
WooHoo! Dampers exposed!

I have the dampers exposed. Thanks to the article linked above. I feel that the service manual is a big vague, but then again I guess the Maytag repairman would have had hands on training to supplement the manual. Unfortunately, I will replacing the damper pads as one of them was completely loose. I don't see any black dust around feeling with my fingers, so I think the damper bowl is ok.

On another topic, I noticed quite a bit of grease splatter underneath when I tilted her back. This may be normal for a machine from 1974 but would like to hear you all chime in. Thanks!!

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I have not tried to remove it....should I?

I would, probably crud under there that needs cleaning and you can check the condition of the agitator shaft.
 
If you're going to test for leaks, tape the lid down, remove the 2 screws at the corners under the top panel and raise it 90 degrees. This makes detecting leaks, particularly during the spin cycle, much easier to locate in real time. I test all of my post 1965 machines this way.

I have a bad feeling you're going to find leaks around the band seal during the spin cycle (be sure to test this with a full tub of water). As mentioned above, check the water injector and injector hose (particularly where it connects to the tub) for leaks during the initial fill portion of the cycle, located on the left side.
 
take a wire brush to clean the old glue off

I wouldn't get too aggressive removing the old adhesive, better not to damage the factory coating on base plate.

Just a mild degreaser or solvent as suggested. I've used WD-40 for adhesive removal without damaging the underlying finish.

The service manual link above doesn't mention removing the old adhesive only residual grease.
 
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Adhesive Removal

So I’m trying to remove the adhesive with the goof off and not have very good luck. I spent an hour and just got the front area done and used 1/3 of the can on that one area. Any other suggestions?
 
Acetone will clean up the old sticky pad and glue residue but as Dave mentioned, it will remove the paint. There's no need to remove the glue that doesn't have any reminiscent pad material, just leave it alone.

When you lay the glue down, cover up any bare metal areas of removed paint. This will prevent the base from rusting.

I'd personally remove the entire working unit for better accessibility. All damper pads I've installed are with the unit and cabinet off of the base, nothing attached. It's hard enough with those removed to get the damper pads properly aligned with base cone and properly spaced out from each other since the glue flash drys in a matter of seconds once the damper pads touch it. It requires one to be very quick and precise in an extremely short period of time. I can't imagine doing that job with the cabinet attached and the milk stool floating slightly above that area.
 
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