Maytag AMP--That &%#$@! T-Key!!

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westytoploader

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Joined
Sep 4, 2004
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Hey guys,

I just came back up from the Studio working on the AMP with my 1965 Repair-Master. I removed the cabinet & front panel, was able to access the damper assembly. I found the stop bolt and collar opening, and removed the stop bolt. I then turned the tub to access the T-key in the collar. After pulling it out, I inspected it for any signs of wear--looked fine to me at least. Now, my question is...how are you supposed to re-install it, and what could be the cause of the no-spin situation?? Every method I tried led to the collar not lowering properly, which in turn will not allow me to get the stop bolt in. I'm thinking that perhaps the T-key wasn't installed right to begin with.

Upon further examination of the hole in the spin tube, both from the machine and from the diagram in the repair manual, there is a long slot beneath that (making said opening "lollipop-shaped"), apparently to let the T-key/collar slide down to drive the spin tub. The opening in the collar into which the T-key is supposed to fit isn't wide enough to accomodate the T-key in a vertical position to let it slide down in the slot, even though it appears to illustrate it in the diagram. The spin tube and collar aren't misaligned either...am I missing something here??

If anyone has a solution I would REALLY appreciate it!

--Austin
 
Update

I was able to turn the T-key around and re-install it (it is actually in good shape besides being "rough" after I grabbed it a few times), but it led me to believe something else was causing the no-spin situation. I noticed that each time I held the brake arm in and turned the tub, I could hear the brake assembly turning beneath it, so everything seemed to "catch".

So, I grabbed the brake arm, turned the tub a little, and pulled the timer out...SPIN!! The tub reached the full 618 RPM, but the motor did strain a little on startup the first time around. After a few attempts with "spin assistance", it was finally able to get going by itself...."CLUNK--SPIN". Now it appears that it has to do with the brake not fully releasing. After I agitate and turn the timer into spin, sometimes it will go into spin on its own, but other times it will make this horrible "clickety-clacking" noise (with the tub twirling a bit) and then finally "lock" into spin and get up to speed. Any thoughts? I'll try to get a picture of the assembly later today.

Good news though...I was able to put water in it from a hose, throw some Tide in, and clean the inner tub out. I'm happy to report that the machine is water tight and pumping nicely!! Surprisingly it had no trouble whatsoever spinning a full tub of water out.

--Austin
 
Hi Austin ... oh boy; patience pays off!

Do you think that maybe perhaps some more use will help lubicate the brake system and loosen it up a bit?
 
Austin, by chance is the brake arm not being pulled out far enough? Could the solenoid need adjustment to pull that arm out just a hair bit more?
 
Austin, If you take the brake assembly apart you will find the break shoes are covered with grease, this is normal. The first time my brother and I worked on one of these washers, we thought it would be good to clean all the grease from the shoes and drum area. We had a real suprise the first time the tub stoped and the whole washer turned about half way around. Jeff
 
Not the brake...

Hi guys,

Thanks for the advice. Turns out it had nothing to do with solenoid adjustment. I looked at the collar while the machine was making the "clickety-clacking" noise and it turns out that while the T-key was fine, the collar wasn't dropping fast enough to engage spin after the solenoid was released. I took some of my "silicone spray" lubricant and coated the shaft with it while it was turning and that seemed to work. Now, with it spinning fine, I'm going to replace the water valve and fill flume hose, and then address the clutch as it doesn't quite seem to be slipping like it should while empty (motor appears to strain); with a full tub of water it's fine. Aren't you able to use air compressor oil in the clutch?

--Austin
 
Hi Austin, congratualtions on getting through a big challenage like working on the AMP T-Key and related parts. That's not an easy thing to work on, sounds like you had a great success there, and its something to be very proud of.

I would leave the clutch alone for now. It doesn't quite make sense that the motor would strain when empty, but it works fine when its full of water. I would wait and run a bunch of wash loads through it, sometimes these things work themselves out just by running the machine normally.

The best advice I can give to you is not to over tinker with the machine until you've seen some wash run through it.
 
Success!!

Spinning nicely at 618 RPM. The T-key was actually quite simple to work on, especially after tackling a GE transmission replacement (more on that in another thread), once I figured out how it aligned in the collar! I was able to do it with the machine upright as well.

Robert, I'm taking your advice and leaving it alone for now; I think this will work out naturally as a full tub of water/clothes will allow it to slip properly and free it up. I definitely need to remember that this machine has been dormant for 40-50 years!

--Austin

3-19-2006-22-51-42--westytoploader.jpg
 
Austin ... HOORAY!!

Did you figure out the water connections yet for the portable aspect? Did it come with the special coupling device?
 

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