scrubflex
Well-known member
Does anyone have a brake removal tool to sell?
Maytag Brake Package Removal Tool
- Thread starter scrubflex
- Start date
Help Support :
MT BRAKE REMOVAL TOOL
You don't need it unless you just like to collect metal objects to hang on the shop wall. See earlier posts on this topic it very easy to loosen and remove the brake assembly.
You don't need it unless you just like to collect metal objects to hang on the shop wall. See earlier posts on this topic it very easy to loosen and remove the brake assembly.
dnastrau
Well-known member
Earlier posts?
Hi John:
I am also interested in seeing what the method for removal/installation is without the tool, but I do not see any old threads that detail this. I found one thread about removing the brake package by "tapping on the bolts" but that is it. Can you elaborate?
Thanks,
Andrew S.
Hi John:
I am also interested in seeing what the method for removal/installation is without the tool, but I do not see any old threads that detail this. I found one thread about removing the brake package by "tapping on the bolts" but that is it. Can you elaborate?
Thanks,
Andrew S.
scrubflex
Well-known member
How exactly is this done? Even the service manual tells you to use the tool.
REMOVING BRAKE ASSEMBLY FROM MT HELICAL DR WASHERS
1 lay washer on side 2 remove belts and main drive pulley 3 remove 7/16"bolt and clip above brake package below base plate [very early washers had allen screw located in damper casting located above base plate that has to be removed instead of bolt and clip] 4 give threaded top of brake package a squirt of penetrating oil 5 take a blunt square chisel and place it against the side of one of the eight screws that hold the brake package together and hit it sharply with a hammer to loosen the brake assembly in a counter clockwise direction then finish removing by hand 6 if you have one of the newer brake packages that are crimped together [no screws] take a cold chisel and dig into the edge of the brake assembly creating a small dent or notch and loosen and unscrew 7 reassemble by hand giving a small tap with hammer in the same manner to tighten.
1 lay washer on side 2 remove belts and main drive pulley 3 remove 7/16"bolt and clip above brake package below base plate [very early washers had allen screw located in damper casting located above base plate that has to be removed instead of bolt and clip] 4 give threaded top of brake package a squirt of penetrating oil 5 take a blunt square chisel and place it against the side of one of the eight screws that hold the brake package together and hit it sharply with a hammer to loosen the brake assembly in a counter clockwise direction then finish removing by hand 6 if you have one of the newer brake packages that are crimped together [no screws] take a cold chisel and dig into the edge of the brake assembly creating a small dent or notch and loosen and unscrew 7 reassemble by hand giving a small tap with hammer in the same manner to tighten.
dnastrau
Well-known member
Thanks John
Interesting - sounds do-able if you don't have the wrench.
Interesting - sounds do-able if you don't have the wrench.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Guys
I'm an amateur, not a mechanic and I have a new style crimped edge brake assembly and the idea of making a small dent or notch in my new package is throwing me off. Is it really that simple? How does it loosen from digging into the edge and making the dent or notch?
Can you PLEASE elaborate a little more on the later brake style. I don't want spend $60 for the tool... I have to/need to know exactly what I'm doing if I'll attempt to remove the brake package without the tool. I do not want to damage the brake assemble or myself.
I'm an amateur, not a mechanic and I have a new style crimped edge brake assembly and the idea of making a small dent or notch in my new package is throwing me off. Is it really that simple? How does it loosen from digging into the edge and making the dent or notch?
Can you PLEASE elaborate a little more on the later brake style. I don't want spend $60 for the tool... I have to/need to know exactly what I'm doing if I'll attempt to remove the brake package without the tool. I do not want to damage the brake assemble or myself.
The dent/notch does not itself loosen the brake. Since there are no exposed screw heads, it's so the chisel can get a grip on the brake assembly, for tapping the chisel to loosen it.
scrubflex
Well-known member
Are you guys able to...rather can you post some demostration pics...I want to do it right.
MT BRAKE REMOVAL TOOL
I did have the tool I threw it in the metal recycling bin years ago. Thats why I an taking the time to post all this . After doing it my way for years and then I finally found the special tool I was very disappointed the way it worked it tended to slip off the brake assembly so after using it a few times I never bothered again. Disassembling a MT washer this far is not something I would ever recommend any one attempt who is not pretty handy mechanically.
I did have the tool I threw it in the metal recycling bin years ago. Thats why I an taking the time to post all this . After doing it my way for years and then I finally found the special tool I was very disappointed the way it worked it tended to slip off the brake assembly so after using it a few times I never bothered again. Disassembling a MT washer this far is not something I would ever recommend any one attempt who is not pretty handy mechanically.
dnastrau
Well-known member
Large strap wrench
I wonder if a large strap wrench might be helpful with this procedure as well...
I wonder if a large strap wrench might be helpful with this procedure as well...
scrubflex
Well-known member
It would be harder to use "the without brake tool" method. I'd feel more secure...would need more input.
The one's I've removed over the years have taken quite a bit of force to remove, I don't think a strap wrench would work.
I'll stick with the Maytag tool, thank you very much.
I'll stick with the Maytag tool, thank you very much.
surgilator_68
Well-known member
I suppose if one can't figure out how to unscrew something one shouldn't be screwing with anything.
I have used an old pair of vice-grip and crimped the vice grip to the break package. Then I use a hammer on the vice-grip..usually works like a charm. The tool did work, but it often slipped off...
Bob
Bob
scrubflex
Well-known member
"...if one can't figure out how to unscrew...". not necessarily, I misunderstood the handling of the brake package.
I thought I needed to be extra cautious with the brake because of the spring.
It's about unscrewing and rescrewing the brake right and tight.
I thought I needed to be extra cautious with the brake because of the spring.
It's about unscrewing and rescrewing the brake right and tight.
dnastrau
Well-known member
Long: Brake R&R without tool achieved - damper pads relubed
Good evening everyone:
Today I attempted to remove and replace my brake assembly in my '61 A700 in order to raise up the tub and damper to relube the damper pads. I was successful - here is how it went:
The washer was already raised up about 10" off of the floor. This allowed access to the bottom without having to tip it over. This in turn keeps the tub/damper/brake centered in the chassis at all times.
My damper is the older style that holds the brake package in place with an Allen-type setscrew. I removed that first with a long Allen key; I removed the Allen screw completely and could see that the screw had made a nice round dent in the threads of the brake package. This is good - I can use this mark to put it back exactly where it came off!
Next, I removed the pulley, stop lug, dust cap and lower bearing. This exposed the brake which was the original type held together with hex head screws. I then used a long flathead screwdriver and a large hammer and was able to tap the brake assembly (on the sides of the screws) around counterclockwise until it came off. This took about 10 minutes as the angle was a bit tedious. This would have been easier with the washer tipped over, but I didn't want to have to deal with supporting the tub/trans/damper assembly once the brake came off.
I then removed the adjusting nuts on the suspension springs and used a floor jack and a block of wood to raise up the tub/transmission assembly until the damper pads were fully exposed. The old felt-type pads were in great shape so I relubed them with "Moly-Graph" grease (messy.) This grease is similar to what was used at the factory on the early models. In contrast, the '66 and newer Polypropylene pads take Poly-Lube silicone grease in case anyone was wondering.
I cleaned up the outside of the brake housing a bit while it was off. The original bearing in the top of the brake backage seemed to be OK (made in Japan!) I tried to wick some turbine oil into it but it was pretty much sealed. I cleaned out the old grease in the hub of the brake where the bearing goes and replaced it with fresh grease upon reassembly.
I removed the floor jack at this point and replaced the adjusting nuts on the suspension springs and set them at the initial setting (only for '65 and prior machines) where the bolt just barely starts to come through the other end of the nut. Nice smooth tub movement now!
I put a dab of grease on the threads of the brake package (it had some there from the factory so I followed suit) and screwed it back into the damper assembly by hand until the transmission started to move. Then I took the hammer and long screwdriver and tapped the brake clockwise a bit until the circular dent in the brake package threads lined up/centered in the screw hole. It seemed to want to stop tightening at this point anyhow. I tightened the allen screw firmly (don't strip it or the damper threads!) I am now ready to put the pulley/bearing/stop lug/dust cap back on. That I will do with the machine tipped over as the adjustment of the lug is critical.
My last chore is to disassemble the original GE motor and relube the felt wicks and bearings with some turbine oil, check the start switch, etc. Then I can put this baby back together and let it rip! After all of the work is completed I am going to have lots of pictures that I will post on Photobucket and share more about my major Maytag tune-up.
Whew...(!)
Andrew S.
Good evening everyone:
Today I attempted to remove and replace my brake assembly in my '61 A700 in order to raise up the tub and damper to relube the damper pads. I was successful - here is how it went:
The washer was already raised up about 10" off of the floor. This allowed access to the bottom without having to tip it over. This in turn keeps the tub/damper/brake centered in the chassis at all times.
My damper is the older style that holds the brake package in place with an Allen-type setscrew. I removed that first with a long Allen key; I removed the Allen screw completely and could see that the screw had made a nice round dent in the threads of the brake package. This is good - I can use this mark to put it back exactly where it came off!
Next, I removed the pulley, stop lug, dust cap and lower bearing. This exposed the brake which was the original type held together with hex head screws. I then used a long flathead screwdriver and a large hammer and was able to tap the brake assembly (on the sides of the screws) around counterclockwise until it came off. This took about 10 minutes as the angle was a bit tedious. This would have been easier with the washer tipped over, but I didn't want to have to deal with supporting the tub/trans/damper assembly once the brake came off.
I then removed the adjusting nuts on the suspension springs and used a floor jack and a block of wood to raise up the tub/transmission assembly until the damper pads were fully exposed. The old felt-type pads were in great shape so I relubed them with "Moly-Graph" grease (messy.) This grease is similar to what was used at the factory on the early models. In contrast, the '66 and newer Polypropylene pads take Poly-Lube silicone grease in case anyone was wondering.
I cleaned up the outside of the brake housing a bit while it was off. The original bearing in the top of the brake backage seemed to be OK (made in Japan!) I tried to wick some turbine oil into it but it was pretty much sealed. I cleaned out the old grease in the hub of the brake where the bearing goes and replaced it with fresh grease upon reassembly.
I removed the floor jack at this point and replaced the adjusting nuts on the suspension springs and set them at the initial setting (only for '65 and prior machines) where the bolt just barely starts to come through the other end of the nut. Nice smooth tub movement now!
I put a dab of grease on the threads of the brake package (it had some there from the factory so I followed suit) and screwed it back into the damper assembly by hand until the transmission started to move. Then I took the hammer and long screwdriver and tapped the brake clockwise a bit until the circular dent in the brake package threads lined up/centered in the screw hole. It seemed to want to stop tightening at this point anyhow. I tightened the allen screw firmly (don't strip it or the damper threads!) I am now ready to put the pulley/bearing/stop lug/dust cap back on. That I will do with the machine tipped over as the adjustment of the lug is critical.
My last chore is to disassemble the original GE motor and relube the felt wicks and bearings with some turbine oil, check the start switch, etc. Then I can put this baby back together and let it rip! After all of the work is completed I am going to have lots of pictures that I will post on Photobucket and share more about my major Maytag tune-up.
Whew...(!)
Andrew S.
dnastrau
Well-known member
Set screw was OK
No problems!
No problems!
