I just purchased a Maytag model 32. Naturally it's been sitting for decades. I don't want to do a restoration on it but want it to be functional. It is in very nice original condition. My question is what are the no so obvious things that would need attention. I did purchase the Maytag electric and gas wringer washer service manual from Automatic Ephemeria and read through it. I will be changing out the grease in the gear box (2 pounds). Are there any other oil or grease reservoirs that would need changed out or perhaps critical seals. Any advice is much appreciated.
Maytag model 32 maintenance
- Thread starter gigi
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bradross
Well-known member
Hello Michael,
I did a complete restoration a few years ago on a 1940 Model 32. It had to be completely disassembled due to water ingress into the power unit (gear box, as you called it!) which ruined the grease, and actually caused a little bit of rust and pitting on the inside. Thankfully, it was minimal, and caused no structural weakness to the unit itself. I have videos posted on YouTube of the restoration process; I've included the link to Part One. Hopefully the videos will be of some help to you.
The wringer head probably also needs looking at. It's relatively easy to disassemble and repack with fresh grease.
Any questions that come up, please ask? I'm always happy to share my experience.
I did a complete restoration a few years ago on a 1940 Model 32. It had to be completely disassembled due to water ingress into the power unit (gear box, as you called it!) which ruined the grease, and actually caused a little bit of rust and pitting on the inside. Thankfully, it was minimal, and caused no structural weakness to the unit itself. I have videos posted on YouTube of the restoration process; I've included the link to Part One. Hopefully the videos will be of some help to you.
The wringer head probably also needs looking at. It's relatively easy to disassemble and repack with fresh grease.
Any questions that come up, please ask? I'm always happy to share my experience.
bradross
Well-known member
The possible ways of water leaking into the power unit are really limited to overfilling of the tub, or cracks in the agitator drive shaft pipe. I also restored a model 30WP which had several cracks in the bronze agitator drive shaft pipe. And of course, water leaked in and ruined the grease in the power unit.
Apparently, the water ingress to the power unit on my Model 32 was done by simply overfilling the tub (probably on numerous occasions.) The bushing on top of the agitator drive post is fairly tight around the drive shaft, so one "overfilling" by mistake wouldn't be enough to cause significant damage. Perhaps the tub was left full of water above the post for an extended period time.
My advice to you when you proceed with removing the tub - do NOT remove the six bronze bolts that hold the tub to the center plate. You only need to remove the three small bolts that hold the center plate to the power unit, which will allow the tub and center plate/agitator post to be removed as one unit. Chances are, you will need to replace the small gasket that goes between the center plate and the power unit (photo attached.)
I've done four restorations on models 30/32 and have never found it necessary to remove the tub from the center plate. It's unnecessary work, unless you noticed a water leak under the tub, which could indicate the center plate gasket has deteriorated, or you wanted to replace the entire center plate/agitator post assembly.
Regarding the Model 30WP with the cracks in the bronze post - since I did not have a replacement center plate and post, I simply covered the cracks with E6000 adhesive. It's quite durable, but does have to be reapplied every couple of years. Short of replacing the post, a better fix would be JB Weld Marine Epoxy, but I haven't done that yet.
Apparently, the water ingress to the power unit on my Model 32 was done by simply overfilling the tub (probably on numerous occasions.) The bushing on top of the agitator drive post is fairly tight around the drive shaft, so one "overfilling" by mistake wouldn't be enough to cause significant damage. Perhaps the tub was left full of water above the post for an extended period time.
My advice to you when you proceed with removing the tub - do NOT remove the six bronze bolts that hold the tub to the center plate. You only need to remove the three small bolts that hold the center plate to the power unit, which will allow the tub and center plate/agitator post to be removed as one unit. Chances are, you will need to replace the small gasket that goes between the center plate and the power unit (photo attached.)
I've done four restorations on models 30/32 and have never found it necessary to remove the tub from the center plate. It's unnecessary work, unless you noticed a water leak under the tub, which could indicate the center plate gasket has deteriorated, or you wanted to replace the entire center plate/agitator post assembly.
Regarding the Model 30WP with the cracks in the bronze post - since I did not have a replacement center plate and post, I simply covered the cracks with E6000 adhesive. It's quite durable, but does have to be reapplied every couple of years. Short of replacing the post, a better fix would be JB Weld Marine Epoxy, but I haven't done that yet.
bradross
Well-known member
Paint ...
I suppose some "purists" would consider my use of a spray bomb "cheating". However, I found Valspar's "Leafy Rise" (from Lowe's) spray paint very close to the original gray-green that I discovered in a protected area of the machines. It's a little more on the green side than the authentic, but I liked the color.
I believe the Maytag Collectors' Club has the original paint formula, if you're interested.
I suppose some "purists" would consider my use of a spray bomb "cheating". However, I found Valspar's "Leafy Rise" (from Lowe's) spray paint very close to the original gray-green that I discovered in a protected area of the machines. It's a little more on the green side than the authentic, but I liked the color.
I believe the Maytag Collectors' Club has the original paint formula, if you're interested.
I'm slowly tearing into my model 30. The "leafy rise" paint by Valspar is no longer available in the spray can. Anything else "out of a can" by Krylon or Rustoleum come close? Also where can I buy the discharge hose (just the rubber) and decals? I've been trying to get on the Maytag collectors club website for the decals but cannot access it..must be a problem.
bradross
Well-known member
Valspar "Leafy Rise"
still available at Lowe's in Canada, check out Lowes.ca Perhaps they can ship to the U.S.
Regarding the hose, I went to an industrial hose supplier and found the perfect type.
Decals are available from Kevin Fisher in Ohio. I notice the website is down currently.
still available at Lowe's in Canada, check out Lowes.ca Perhaps they can ship to the U.S.
Regarding the hose, I went to an industrial hose supplier and found the perfect type.
Decals are available from Kevin Fisher in Ohio. I notice the website is down currently.
bradross
Well-known member
Removing the wringer from the post...
First question: Does the wringer swing freely? If so, it should just lift off.
If it does not swing, probably the grease on the post has hardened and is binding. If you can move it slightly, then wiggle it back and forth until it's loosened enough to lift off.
If you are planning on painting the wringer, and not worried about ruining the original paint, you could also take a propane torch to the post, but I would do that only as a last resort.
Decals: I see the Maytagclub website is still down, so here is the address for decals ... Kevin Fisher 8735 Bellefontaine Rd., Harrod, OH. 45850. Ph: (419)979-2046 / email: [email protected]
The website has a list of decals appropriate to each model/year, and a corresponding inventory number. With the website down, perhaps you can contact him for the list, or better yet, he'll probably just tell you which ones you need for your machine.
First question: Does the wringer swing freely? If so, it should just lift off.
If it does not swing, probably the grease on the post has hardened and is binding. If you can move it slightly, then wiggle it back and forth until it's loosened enough to lift off.
If you are planning on painting the wringer, and not worried about ruining the original paint, you could also take a propane torch to the post, but I would do that only as a last resort.
Decals: I see the Maytagclub website is still down, so here is the address for decals ... Kevin Fisher 8735 Bellefontaine Rd., Harrod, OH. 45850. Ph: (419)979-2046 / email: [email protected]
The website has a list of decals appropriate to each model/year, and a corresponding inventory number. With the website down, perhaps you can contact him for the list, or better yet, he'll probably just tell you which ones you need for your machine.
Once again thanks Brad. The wringer assembly does not swing so it's probably stuck in old grease. My wife and I went to the Portland Indiana tractor show this year and she was fascinated by one that was being displayed so this is a Christmas gift to her. I'm keeping it at a friends house while I work on it. I'll have some pics up over the next few days.
bradross
Well-known member
What a cool gift for your wife! Won't she be surprised! Was she interested in actually using it to do laundry? I use all my wringer washers on a rotational basis, and I can attest that they do a fantastic job of cleaning. But there is a bit of a knack to develop in using one - and if/when that day comes, first and foremost - add water FIRST, right up to the "water mark" on the agitator, and then don't overload the machine; only add items as long as there is still free circulation of the clothes, and they tumble towards the center of the tub (that is almost quoting verbatim from the Maytag instruction booklet!)
Always happy to answer any other questions about the restoration process here in the forum. Feel free to email me also.
Always happy to answer any other questions about the restoration process here in the forum. Feel free to email me also.
bradross
Well-known member
Upper roll?
I'm assuming the flat spot is on the black upper roll. This happened frequently when the wringer was left with the tension engaged, especially if left outside in the elements. (Note: always leave the rolls in the separated position when storing between uses.)
I use Permatex black gasket maker (a RTV silicone rubber) to fix this. I run a thick bead of it along the flat spot, and then using a curved, flexible piece of plastic, spread it smoothly by sweeping towards you in one smooth motion, using two hands to maintain the proper curve. The plastic from a bleach bottle is usually flexible enough. I have also used the little rectangular piece of blue plastic from the Philadelphia cream cheese package!
I'm assuming the flat spot is on the black upper roll. This happened frequently when the wringer was left with the tension engaged, especially if left outside in the elements. (Note: always leave the rolls in the separated position when storing between uses.)
I use Permatex black gasket maker (a RTV silicone rubber) to fix this. I run a thick bead of it along the flat spot, and then using a curved, flexible piece of plastic, spread it smoothly by sweeping towards you in one smooth motion, using two hands to maintain the proper curve. The plastic from a bleach bottle is usually flexible enough. I have also used the little rectangular piece of blue plastic from the Philadelphia cream cheese package!
rollerwringer71
New member
What size paper gasket for center plate to power housing?
Hi Brad,
What size paper gasket do you use for the center plate to power housing?
Also the large powerhousing gasket, what do you use for this? I tried explaining that I needed a large roll to have a long enough piece at a local auto store but they wondered what thickness, and part number for their 'Fel-Pro' line of gaskets. My tub was leaking but I think I already have the right cork/rubber to make that. Oddly the tub to agitator screws were loose on my 32....hence maybe why the gasket that was there was worn, etc.
Thanks
(Again)
Aaron
Hi Brad,
What size paper gasket do you use for the center plate to power housing?
Also the large powerhousing gasket, what do you use for this? I tried explaining that I needed a large roll to have a long enough piece at a local auto store but they wondered what thickness, and part number for their 'Fel-Pro' line of gaskets. My tub was leaking but I think I already have the right cork/rubber to make that. Oddly the tub to agitator screws were loose on my 32....hence maybe why the gasket that was there was worn, etc.
Thanks
(Again)
Aaron
bradross
Well-known member
Aaron...
I replied by email.
I replied by email.
