Maytag mvwp575gw Automatic Temperature Control

[pinkpower4]

Hi again!

I am hoping some of you can help me. I do not completely understand how the Automatic Temperature Control and the Normal "Eco" cycle in the Maytag mvwp575gw work. I disabled the Automatic Temperature Control by simply moving the sensor from the location where it can sense the temperature of incoming water and placed it to the side where it now senses the temperature of air instead. Unplug your machine before doing this!

For the main cycles, this continues to work well! I have the option of tap hot or tap cold. I can change back and forth manually as much as needed to achieve the perfect wash temperature, and this only requires a few minutes of hands on during the first part of the cycle. The rinse always defaults to the cold inlet valve regardless where the knob is for the wash temperature. I am fine with cold rinses, which is what I prefer for energy savings. I do not use fabric softener.

In the winter months, this seemed to be also working for the Normal "Eco" cycle too. It is summer now. My laundry room was not originally part of the house and is uninsulated. A door was added along with a small vent to add some heat and A/C. The temperature in the winter is probably around 60 degrees F., and in the summer is probably around 85 degrees F. I cannot get the hot valve to kick on at all now with ATC enabled or not but only for the Normal "Eco" cycle. I think the water and air temperature are both above the threshold. What is the threshold?

As a temporary fix, I went back to the mixed hot and cold line. I have to turn off the cold part of the mix to get a hot wash now.

Is there a better way? I wish I just could disconnect the jumper wire, but it will not fill it J3 is disconnected. This is ridiculous!

Can someone that has the Maytag mvwp575gw check to see if the hot valve kicks on at all with ATC enabled? Is it cold, warm, or hot where you live (ground water). What is the air temperature?

I have attached some pictures from the Maytag mvwp575gw tech sheet.

Thank you for any assistance you can provide.

 

[DADoES]

 
Your laundry room being 85°F is probably above the target temperature for Normal Eco.  Place the temp sensor in ice water so it reads colder.

 

[eronie]

Don't use Normal/Echo.

 

[pinkpower4]

More information about the Normal "Eco" Cycle...

Normal "Eco" is the only half-tub option I have with this washer. Surprisingly, it works well even with the spray rinse. If I need a half-tub rinse, I just cancel the cycle after the wash cycle but before the rinse. Then I start another Normal cycle (which becomes a rinse cycle with agitation) only I do not add detergent. One can add fabric softener or Lysol Laundry sanitizer if needed.

This sensor is different than the ones I have seen that can be exposed to water. I attached a picture of the sensor in its original location. It is housed in a plastic holder and senses the temperature of the water through the plastic and not direct contact with the water. For testing purposes, I can probably try to recreate that. It is not something I would want to do for every wash cycle.

I am thinking my best option is to come up with a better way to turn off the hot and cold part of the mix as needed. I did wonder if I can change the jumpers around or some other non-permanent settings? I am not good at reading wire diagrams.

This government regulations are not well thought out, but neither was Maytag's idea to have the only half-tub option without a way to select water temperature either. This is the real deal breaker on this washer along with using a splutch and mode shifter to do the work instead of the transmission.

Thank you.

 

[DADoES]

 
Doesn't matter how you do it, exposing the sensor to a colder temperature than the ambient in your laundry room ... ice pack, ice cubes wrapped in a wash cloth, set a thermal mug in your freezer for a while then place the sensor inside of it, etc.

Or, cut out the existing sensor and substitute one that produces the resistance curve the board needs but at a different temperature range so it reads colder than the actual to trick the board into running hot water.

You can't run with the J3 connector fully disconnected, it also supplies power to the hot and cold valves.  Pulling J3-9 and J3-10 leads out of the connector would cause the controller board to not get any resistance reading at all from the sensor and probably throw a fault code or other issue.

The mode shifter functions only to engage or disengage the spin gear onto the drive pulley. There is a "transmission" of sorts that drives the agitator.  That's how the VMW design works, no way around it.  The upper-model VMAX machines that use the F&P "pancake"-style motor also have a mode shifter, they no longer use the more-simple floating-basket design.

 

[DADoES]

 
Or find a used Whirlpool/Kenmore/KitchenAid/Roper/Estate/Maytag/Amana/Admiral/etc. direct-drive machine of appropriate feature-set for your needs, and refurb it if necessary while parts are still available.

I have a 1999 Kenmore 90 for sale, in excellent condition with the tub support and basket drive/brake/clutch replaced (which means all new bearings), transmission serviced with new agitator shaft, neutral drain kit, and fresh oil.  It has selectable ATC for warm and cold but not hard-wired into the timer so you can use it or not.  Also a 2002/2003 Whirlpool of the same features and condition (but I didn't do anything to the transmission).  You'd have to come to TX to fetch either.

 

[pinkpower4]

DADoES

If I lived closer, I would be very interested in the Kenmore 90 series from you! I realize they are better than anything someone can buy new today. What would something like this cost if I can find it locally?

Thank you for the information above.