MAYTAG TWO-BELT TRANSMISSION QUESTION

[beekeyknee]

James,

Softened water and water heaters don't mix well. I found out the hard way. Here's what I did. Read the link in the link first. It was quite an ordeal, but all seems well now.

Brian

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?41978

 

[jwpate]

I took a quick look Brian, and there is a lot of information there. After the washer fun is over I plan to do a detailed study of your water heater thread.

For now, I did count the threads on a couple of the eye bolts. They averaged 19 threads, and so I have marked these for use as a starting point when things go back together. There are four in the photo, because I did order one new bolt to replace a pitted one. Actually they all cleaned up ok for reuse, and I did nickel plate the new one right along with the other three. That is the new bolt on the right side. The interesting thing is that they are different lengths. Originally, there would have been two of the short ones and one longer one (the new one is also longer). I doubt there is anything to it more than different bolt lots at the factory. Interesting though.

 

[jwpate]

The washer lid was also showing rust spots along the sheet metal edge on the bottom and sides. There was already a black section in the corners, and I just continued it along the bottom and sides. It is only POR15 paint, but should last a good while, and this location is easy to keep a watch on.

 

[jwpate]

Here at the control panel I didn't do more than clean the electrical contacts. I wondered whether those gear wheels inside the timer switch might benefit from lubrication.......but decided to leave well enough alone and simply blew out the dust.

Very interesting though, looking at the backing panel with all the provisions for additional switches and push buttons. Lucky for me, this machine is the simple model.

 

[jwpate]

The old order and the new. This is the anti-syphon valve, which positions just before used wash water leaves the machine for the drain hose. I suspect this is included to satisfy some federal reg.
Anyway, the hose clamp is interesting, and one scratches the head while wondering how did they get the thing on there? I have some similar pinch clamps they were all either too large or too small, so we go with the worm clamp as planned.

Used Dow Corning 111 inside the hose and on the sealing washer.

 

[jwpate]

Naturally, I waited until the top was on the cabinet before fitting the drain stem and anti-syphon valve. That way it was as awkward as I could make it.

 

[combo52]

Anti-Siphon Device in The Drain Line

This was not required by the Feds or even plumbing codes, but rather allowed the washer to be used with a floor drain, It also eliminated many other service calls such as an overflowing washer when the end of the drain hose becomes submersed in a sink that is backing up and the washer starts agitating for rinse and sucks all the backed up water in sink back into the washer and causes the washer to overflow. This type of event often cost the appliance maker money on warranty calls. MT did eliminate this feature later on.

 

[jwpate]

That is very interesting to learn the true reasons for that anti-syphon device. It is simple enough that probably it didn't often become the source itself of leaks.

 

[beekeyknee]

It looks like you have a late model Mallory timer in that machine. I usually see Kingston timers in that age of machine, but it can vary. The timer can be cleaned and lubricated if you want. With neoprene gloves on, I submerge the timer in kerosene and operate it while submerged. Then I let it dry overnight in a ventilated area and after it's dry I spray the timer down with Tri-flow spray or silicone spray, shake out the excess and let set for awhile. The escapement on your timer is very simple compared to the early model ones.

You might want to wait until you get the rest of your rebuild done before messing with the timer, if you choose to at all. That timer can be pulled out of there any time to be worked on. And don't forget to remove the motor before maintenance.

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?38712

 

[jwpate]

Yes, that is quite interesting, and I just may have a go at that timer in the next few days. Otherwise running out of things to do while waiting for the tub.

For this morning, I turned my attention to the main washer motor and its spring plates.

 

[jwpate]

Not a pretty sight is it, and the underside looks even worse. Still I was wondering about reusing those plates, after cleaning them up and re-plating in zinc.

 

[jwpate]

But I most certainly wanted to put in new springs, and at the time (two weeks ago) the springs were not available from Repair Clinic. I have many more sources for parts now, thanks to this forum, but I did order a kit which includes the springs. So I plan to use it.

 

[jwpate]

First step was to take off the drive pulleys, and that went without a problem. But the pulley which drives the transmission (larger one) was seriously coated with rubber. That burning rubber smell which started this exercise was evident here, where the rubber was vulcanized to the steel. I was getting nowhere with wire brushes, steel wool and acetone. Eventually I got it off with an x-acto knife followed by bead blasting.

I expect the pro's carry a few of these things around with them. I would!

 

[jwpate]

The motor mount kit, which MAYTAG offers these days, comes with square sliders instead of the original style round rollers. Now, actually the round ones didn't really roll either. They too slid along rather than turning on their mounting shafts. Still, after all these years the round wheels look good as new, and are the same dimensions as seen on the stacked-up specimen. And, while it seems to me that the round sliders are less likely to ever bind up, they are coming up on thirty years old. So, and on good advice from this forum I have fitted the new square sliders.

[this post was last edited: 2/1/2014-14:53]

 

[jwpate]

The kit comes with a small tube of what MAYTAG labels as POLY-LUBE GREASE, and that tube is just about the right amount to lube the wheels and slide surfaces. I don't have any more of it though, and just may need to re-lube those slides one day. So I also tossed the grease tube and have used the MOLYKOTE from that larger tube in its place.

Notice the springs. The new ones on the right side are longer than the originals with slightly thicker wire size.

 

[jwpate]

I did conduct a crude testing of the springs, and found that a one-inch extension required just about two pounds in both the old and the new. The new required just slightly more poundage I thought, but likely to have been within the margin of error.

 

[jwpate]

When refitting the pulley to motor shaft notice that the shaft is NOT flush with the pulley face. The service manual calls for a 1/32 inch recess. Here I just peered down the setscrew hole and lined up with the old tightening marks on the shaft flat.

 

[jwpate]

And there we have it. I of course thought about what would be appropriate to refurbish the motor itself. New bearings for example. But, since they are not offered as spare parts, it would be a very time consuming effort, requiring first getting out the old bearings then finding replacements which are not made in China. I decided to leave well enough alone.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

I would use the square 'rollers' on the carriage. The round ones will eventually break/fall apart just due to age. The new ones will work just fine if not a little better. Just trying to save you a possible headache later down the road...

Otherwise, just keep on going the way you are. You're doing awesome!

RCD

 

[jwpate]

One other change has been thrust upon us. The old hard rubber drain hose with its molded top curve is no longer offered.

The new drain hose is this corrugated affair, which seems to be plastic with rubber ends. Looks like it will be OK, but I do miss the molded top curve. Here I have used wire ties to form the needed curve.