MAYTAG TWO-BELT TRANSMISSION QUESTION

[jwpate]

Thanks for the advice Drew. Get with it James - and don't ask for expert advice unless you are prepared to heed it.

Now the square sliders are well lubed and in place. The old round sliders are in the trash, and all is back as it should be.

Thanks again!

 

[norgeway]

Its great to see!

Someone do something RIGHT! You should be able to use it another 30 years! My Kenmore is 31 this year and I dread the thoughts of something happening to it, i certainly would never tackle what you did!

 

[jwpate]

Thanks norgeway - and if I do manage to get it right, it will thanks to the experts on this forum.

One more question though, and I bet someone knows the answer!

In the image below, we are looking in at the washer motor carriage, which was completed today. There are two belt-tension springs there, one on each side. But notice that provision exists also for another spring. We could set this carriage up with two springs on one side, or one each side as I have done it, or then again we could use three springs.

I of course, just set it up the way I found it.

But what is the real story on that extra set of holes. I imagined that they most likely were used to provide increased belt tension on models with larger capacity tubs???

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Sometimes, you'll see a third spring. Usually, the way you have it is just fine.

RCD

 

[jwpate]

Thanks Drew, I will not worry further on that point.

Just about caught up now, and so decided to take a closer look today at the control panel items. After carefully drawing out a diagram, I realized that actually most of the contacts are labeled and most of the wire ends also are numbered for reference. Better safe than sorry, but now I do have a wiring diagram so the drawing will just make it easy.

My model A112 has but three switching items in the control panel. Water level, water temp, and the timer.

 

[jwpate]

We shall begin with the water temp switch. From having earlier been inside the inlet water valve, we can just about guess how this functions. There are no partial settings on the solenoid operated hot and cold inlet valves. They are either open or closed, so we know before starting that this three position switch will have the hot solenoid open on the hot button, the cold solenoid on that button, and both open in the mid position.

What I don't know is how exactly this switch accomplishes that job. So we shall have a look inside. First take note that the push buttons are not centered on those actuating shafts, and the long side is up in this view - away from the mounting-hole side.

 

[jwpate]

These switches are easily available but the buttons alone are not (once they were). So we need to be careful, and hand pressure is all that is needed to persuade them off the shafts in one piece.

Then there are four plastic jaws keeping the top in place, of which we see two on the lower side here.

 

[jwpate]

I was very careful taking the top cover off, in case there were little springs just waiting to dance across the room. Can be more expeditions if there is ever a next time, for this switch has no springs.

What it does have is two contact breaker points, and a pair of fiber sliders that respond to the rounded ends of the button shafts. It is right in line with our expectations, and when the center button is pushed, neither of the points are opened giving us both hot and cold inlet water.

 

[jwpate]

When one of these temp switches begins to give us trouble, I would first wonder about the contact points. So here I give them a few strokes with a flexible point cleaning strip. Just enough to clean them of any oxidation which may have formed there.

 

[jwpate]

The three actuating shafts were each one corroded at the outside, or button end. Clean them up with fine steel wool and put a film of heavy grease. That Bosch grease is also helpful on the rounded ends which move the fiber sliders.

 

[jwpate]

Button it back up and check that my tomfoolery hasn't ruined it. All seems well, the button action is smooth and continuity checks out with no resistance through the contact points.

 

[jwpate]

Not much we can do to maintain the water level switch. The button system requires no lubrication, and the single set of contact points is safe from me, being inside the diaphragm housing. There was corrosion on the outer metal surface, there under the buttons. I just cleaned it up and painted with POR15.

 

[jwpate]

On to the timer switch. From the link Brian provided a few postings ago, it is understood that this unit is called the Late Mallory model, and much less complicated than earlier timers. Good!

 

[jwpate]

First we take out two fastening screws and remove the timer motor.

 

[jwpate]

Then remove one more screw and the plastic cover comes off, revealing what I believe is referred to as the escapement gears. That small one, into which the motor pinion was situated, has but two teeth on its bottom side, contacting the next gear only once each revolution. Brian tells us this moves the neat gear in the train along once every minute.

Interesting, but I am here only to clean out dust and old stiff lubricant.

[this post was last edited: 2/2/2014-16:37]

 

[jwpate]

Don't believe it would have occurred to me to try this, had I not read Brian's thread. But here goes, in a high tech kerosene bath and completely submerged to soak a while. Later I used a small brush and removed all the old lubricants. Also pulled out the timer shaft and ran it through all the settings a few times.

 

[jwpate]

After it came out, I blew it out well and from every orifice I could find, using compressed air.

And it really does seem clean as a whistle.

 

[jwpate]

Will now allow the timer to air out and completely dry from the kerosene.

Tomorrow I will lubricate it again with silicone spray generally, and grease for the gears.

 

[jwpate]

Yesterday was cleanup day for the timer switch, and today shall be lubrication. That spray can is a product of Sherwin-Williams, the paint people. Its lubricating ingredient is polytetrafluoroethylene. That is a real mouthful, so SW refers to it as P.T.F.E. Polytetrafluoroethylene is also known as TEFLON, but that trade name belongs to DuPont and therefore Sherwin-Williams cannot use it. We can though, and I have labeled this can teflon spray.

I tried it here because fellow forum member Brian has experienced better results with it than the silicone sprays. And I can say this Brother, it works well. There is a noticeable and pleasing improvement in turning the selection knob after treatment. I just shot it in there through every opening and turned the shaft at the same time.

 

[jwpate]

Grease lube was only used on the flat surface of the metal plate, upon which the gears reside. I also greased the axis shafts and the holes where they fit in. Silicone grease being used for this as I have confidence it will do no harm to the plastic parts.

 

[jwpate]

This looks like a dangerous toy does it not? And, certainly we must maintain our concentration when messing about with such a tool.

 

[jwpate]

It does however, allow us to easily operate and observe the action of this little motor. Here it is running while a drop or two of turbine oil have gravity in their favor getting lubrication to the shaft.

While watching it you will be perhaps surprised at the slow speed of that pinion gear. Its speed, in revolutions per minute, is exactly one.

 

[jwpate]

If we peer inside through one of the case holes it is possible to watch that second gear in the train make is periodic advances. At exactly one minute intervals it advances by six gear cogs, as seen through the case hole.

 

[jwpate]

I suppose that is enough fun for now, with the control panel parts. Put the switches back where they belong, and hope they continue to perform as they have done these last 30 years.

 

[supersuds]

Following this with great interest

It's neat seeing the inner workings of the timer, and your exposition is crystal-clear.

 

[beekeyknee]

Looking good James. That jar of silicone grease would probably be great for your motor carriage glides, if you haven't already put it back together (better than Molykote). And also your new damper pads when you glue them back on. Where did you get that jar of grease, if you don't mind?

That's funny you mentioning paying attention when using the extension cord and alligator clips. I've caught my mind wandering while using one of those and then suddenly snapping back to reality.

B.

 

[jwpate]

Yes, that pure silicone grease isn't that easy to find, unless you have a scuba/dive shop nearby. I got that jar from amazon.

 

[jwpate]

Brian's recommendation to go back and change the motor carriage lubricant from molykote to pure silicone got me thinking. I finally remembered the photo on Brian's washer overhaul site dealing with the motor carriage and went back for another look. Sure enough, in the background is a jar of MAYTAG Poly Lube, and the label shows it is a silicone formula. So, now that I know what that little tube of lube in the carriage repair kit actually is, I dug it back out of the waste basket. For the third time now, I then took the carriage down, cleaned it thoroughly and re-lubed it using the Maytag Poly Lube. Also went online and ordered a couple of jars of the stuff for future needs.

Actually gaining a fair proficiency now with that motor carriage.

And, below a new brake assembly has arrived. Looks to be the same as the original, except the halves are no longer fastened using machine screws/bolts. With none of the innards being offered as spare parts, I suppose it makes sense to save a buck and just crimp the halves together.

 

[jwpate]

I had hoped though to take the new unit apart before mounting it, and satisfy my curiosity about what a new friction liner looks like.

The other thing I wondered about was how much, if any oil was inside the new units when they ship out. From looking there at the oily surface in the center of this image, it becomes obvious that they did lubricate the new brake unit. Still one wonders how much? Should I just mount it and carry on?
Probably, then if it starts ever to make noise, I will add an ounce or so according to the service manual procedure.

 

[jwpate]

A Tale of Three Bearings.

So turning my attention to the bearings and their condition/replacements, we look first at the most heavily loaded bearing in the washer, the radial or spin bearing.

At the top here is the original bearing, made by the respected Japanese firm NTN. It is a common size, stamped 6206Z. The first number (6), means it is a deep groove ball bearing designed for radial loads. The second (2) identifies it as a light duty bearing. The third and forth numbers (06) designate the bore size as 30MM.

The suffix (z) would have designated steel side seals at the time it was made (mid '80,s). Today some bearings have only one side sealed, and therefore the stamping system has expanded slightly. Today this bearing specimen would be stamped either the suffix 2Z or ZZ.

As I hold it and pressure the inner race back and forth in an axial direction, I can only just detect a slight looseness. It is certainly there though, and represents slight wear in the bearing cage. So I have decided to replace it.

First off, I ordered a replacement from one of the Whirlpool parts retailers and it has arrived. It is seen here on the left side. It has rubber side seals, and that difference is a debatable departure from the original specification. Generally I believe it is fair to say that the rubber sides will seal better, at least for a while. The steel sides though, will have less rolling resistance and generally longer life.

The real issue with the Certified Replacement Part from Whirlpool however, can be seen by looking through the clear plastic cover and reading CHINA.

So, today I went across town to the Belt and Bearing firm and purchased the bearing on the right side. It is a direct replacement of the original, being stamped 6026 2Z. This item is made in USA by SKF, and will be the bearing I plan to use.