MAYTAG TWO-BELT TRANSMISSION QUESTION

[jwpate]

HI
I am in the middle of overhauling the transmission on the MAYTAG from 1986. I had hoped to replace the input pinion bearing, which is made of nylon, and its two clutch washers. None of the items are available from MAYTAG so I will have to reuse the originals. My question regards the screw which holds the pinion gear in place. When I took it apart it seemed to be set loosely in place and prevented from changing position by the groove pin. As I am about to build it back up, I just wonder if another member has knowledge of how tight I should take the screw, before placing the pin.

Thanks

 

[beekeyknee]

Until the screw pushes the pinion down flush with the top of the splines on the shaft.

 

[DigAPony]

None of the items are available from MAYTAG

I think you can find a new pinion gear if you shop around. However, that one appears in good shape and should be okay for reuse provided there are no hairline cracks developing.

Lugs gears can be reused as well if not badly worn but should re-installed in their original positions. Again new would be best and they should be available somewhere, although parts such as these are getting scare lately.

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?38714

http://www.appliancejungle.com/servlet/the-25220/210315-MAYTAG-PINION-GEAR/Detail

 

[jwpate]

Well that question did sort of answer itself when I started building up the transmission. After screwing down the pinion to the shaft, neither of the available pin holes would prevent the screw from backing off a bit. That is the slack I noticed during strip-down and seems normal to me now.

As to locating new pinions and washers, I expect you just haven't been searching for them recently. MAYTAG PARTS ONLINE.COM, PARTS DR., and REPAIR CLINIC all report the same sad news - NO LONGER AVAILABLE.

Thanks though, to digapony. I followed that link to Appliance Jungle and now have the pinion on order. [this post was last edited: 1/26/2014-18:53]

 

[jwpate]

While I certainly do not have the experience (none) to start in on a step-by-step how-to on this washer, I would like to post a few photos along the way in hopes that more experienced eyes may catch my errors before they become real problem issues.

I have the machine completely apart now and have found sources for just about all I believe I shall need. Nothing much is available anywhere I have looked for the transmission. Only the gasket.

In the below photo I have rigged up a threaded rod with appropriate plates to clamp the brake spring, then removed the ring of machine screws, and finally am backing off on the spring pressure and allowing the brake halves to move apart.

 

[jwpate]

Here the parts have been cleaned and I am inspecting the brake friction lining. It is only about 2 MM thick, at the spot I have the ruler on. I am working on finding a manual for this model A112, but without success thus far. So I don't know what the practical limit might be. All the rest of the assembly parts look good to my untrained eye, but I have placed a new brake on order because that friction lining looks too thin.

Everything is original from 1986 and so I haven't bothered to clean up the two bearings. I have new ones.

 

[jwpate]

The old mounting stem on the right looks to be a far higher quality part than the new unit on the left. It must be changed, of course, but the new stem uses a cheap rubber lip seal, unlike that nice original seal, which was spring loaded against the washer and retained by the wire clip. That spring loading would have continuously kept pressure on the rubber and helped it retain a firm seat around the shaft.

A fellow member of this forum has suggested that I use both the new stem seal and a new specimen of the original style seal fitted underneath it. I would have never thought of doing that, but most certainly will give it a go. First I shall clean the grease from inside both the seals and replace it with something else, in order that I don't go mixing grease types.

 

[jwpate]

I went through the transmission in order to satisfy myself that there were no obvious problems with any of the gears. They all look good. I can see slight wear on both the pinions, and would like to use new clutch washers - but we have already discussed that.

So it will be just a cleaning effort and new oil. I do want to fit a new central shaft seal though.

 

[jwpate]

Starting in 1986 when I bought this washer, MAYTAG switched from using an O ring located inside the transmission case (up near the nylon pinion in previous image) to a lip seal fitted right at the end of the lower case leg. The seal has a steel sleeve inside that plastic cover, and by means of a special tool it can be pulled off and changed, without opening the transmission or even removing it from the washer.

The new seal comes with a neat plastic protector for installing it. Here I just tapped it in with a hammer.

 

[jwpate]

And now for something really ugly! This is the lip of the outer tub. At this location was one of the two clamps for that stainless V-band which secures the tub seal. I start wondering about how to deal with this. Sure cannot just order a new outer tub.

How bout brazing, or silver solder, or auto-body lead? How bout some epoxy product, like JB Weld.

 

[jwpate]

Whatever is to be done, the first step must be to clean it back till reaching good sound metal. And, this step takes me past all the aforementioned ideas.

It will have to be a butt welded patch of steel.

 

[jwpate]

So, start by hammering out a patch to the contours needed, place it in position and scribe the edge pattern onto the tub, then cut out to match.

 

[jwpate]

Weld it in - grind it smooth- and move on to the next issue.

 

[jwpate]

And this will do. Here is the drain pipe of the outer tub, looking worse for wear. There seems enough length remaining for attaching a hose, but how sound is this pipe???

 

[jwpate]

Well, it actually looks better after the useless end is cut away. But I cannot just clean it up and expect it to be good-to-go. It will have to be really completely cleaned of rust and coated inside and out with a surface will protect it from further oxidation. What to do?

 

[jwpate]

This is what it looks like from inside the tub.

I have come around to thinking that the only acceptable thing to do is bead blast the entire thing, inside and out. And I mean the entire tub. That old finish was a baked on enamel by the looks of it, and I am thinking that it will soon have a baked on power coat. Just cannot think of any other way to make it last.

Anyone else been faced with this and found a better way?

 

[washman]

Good work

Your work with metal is most impressive.

 

[DigAPony]

The tub is porcelain enamel finish.

I'd suggest using POR-15 on the rough spots and use as is.

If you decide to strip it and re-coat there are places that can do a porcelain enamel finish for not much more that powder coating.

 

[jwpate]

Thanks DigAPony, but I cannot locate anywhere in this metropolis a firm offering porcelain enamel refinishing. So I am going ahead with powder coating. We don't expect to remove the existing porcelain where it is sound, but only etch is with the bead blasting then coat over it. The rust can be really cleaned up that way, including the drain pipe. I thought about other options, including reaming out the drain pipe and soldering in a thin stainless sleeve. The heat would be too much though, so I am going with powder coat.

In the time waiting for the tub to be completed, I can move on with other issues. Here the cabinet is outside with fresh paint. I cleaned the rust areas and coated with POR15. After that was dry it got a coat of Hammerite.

 

[jwpate]

And while taking the top cover apart, I came upon this bonus. There can be seen a wiring diagram for my model, where it has been taped in for all these years.

 

[jwpate]

This water valve also came out today, getting the cabinet ready for attention. I hadn't thought much about the valve before now, as it seemed to still be working OK. It looks like its best years are behind it though, doesn't it. That small hose clamp is too rusted up to come off, so I just cut the hose. I have already decided to replace all the rubber hose sections as a matter of course.

Can't get that design hose clamp these days though. They weren't that great anyway, and more on hose clamps later.

 

[jwpate]

Took the inlet valve apart to gain a better understand of how it works. It is those rubber discs which eventually will perish enough to allow water leaks, and I expect serious ones.

 

[jwpate]

And since I will be ordering a replacement inlet valve, I remembered another question which I have not yet answered.

Anyone on this forum will probably immediately recognize these three amigos. They are the outer tub mounting bolts, with what the supplier refer to as rubber sealing washers. My plan was to cut some replacement washers - but from what material? They may call them rubber if they wish to, but they seem more like polyurethane to me. Anyone know for sure?

I suppose the safest and easiest thing to do would be just replace the three bolts with new ones, as they come with the washers attached. I haven't located a source for the two longer bolts, while the short one is available from many sources. So I shall just order three of the short ones. Actually, I haven't worked out why they used long ones on the back tub braces anyway. There is always a reason, but I could only guess on this one.

 

[jwpate]

Back to the subject of hose clamps. I did order a full set of hose clamps for the washer, for they all are rusty. The order was with MAYTAG, and that item on the left is what Whirlpool now ships out as "factory certified parts". In its favor is the fact that it is made of stainless, but I would only use in a pinch and short term. That type clamp is second rate because of the effect those slots will have on the rubber hoses. The hoses are not inexpensive, and we want long life from. The original clamps had a smooth surface against the rubber, and we can find that too in worm style clamps. The clamp on the right is first rate, and the style I shall be using.

 

[jwpate]

And the mail has just been brought in. With is is this like new factory workshop manual for the exact model I am working on. Mine is a 112.

This is great news, and was on eBay last week.

 

[beekeyknee]

Hi James,

Unless the rubber is damaged on the underneath side of those bolts you may reuse them again. I've always reused them before and never had any trouble. Have you tried PB Blaster on your rusted clamps. That usually brings them back, but the new one you show on the right looks nice.

Brian

 

[jwpate]

Thanks for the response Brian. And I have not forgotten your recommendation to check eBay for a service manual. This one has been fun for me looking through, and I did already hit upon a slight surprise in the section on replacing the mounting stem and boot seal. The service manual instructs us to lubricate the carbon ring with thin film of transmission oil before screwing on the mounting stem. Note: the manual uses the term "carbon seal".

Now, when I look at the instruction sheet which came with the new Whirlpool replacement stem and seal, the only "instruction" given is to wipe the face on the bootseal and TEFLON ring on mounting stem with a clean cloth, with the warning "lubrication will reduce the life of the seal face".

I remember this contradiction too, from reading your excellent step-by-step thread. It does seem likely to me, that the carbon seal which MAYTAG once used has been replace by teflon in the Whirlpool version. I am going to put them in clean and dry.

 

[DigAPony]

bolts you may reuse them again.

I'd put some RTV sealant on the bolt gaskets for a little extra insurance.

 

[redcarpetdrew]

Wow.

I've been following this thread with great interest and all I can say is WOW! You are doing one heck of a job restoring this little one. I admit I came in on this later than most. I work at a Maytag service center in Reno. I do have access to a ton of service manuals and part break downs. What do you need, if anything? Might I ask what part of Nevada are you in? It's really good to know I'm not the only AW'er here now!

If this helps, this is a thread I did a while back with part numbers, etc...

Hope to hear from you!

RCD

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?25520

 

[jwpate]

Thanks for the encouragement Drew. Your reputation has preceded the above posting, for I already am aware of redcarpetdrew and your contributions to this forum. I hope you will call me out and set me straight whenever I seem to be heading off in wrong directions. I am down in the Las Vegas valley Drew, and this is my first attempt at a Maytag overhaul. Brian has been advising me and so naturally, I have already looked through one of your threads. Will be sure to read this one too, ASAP.

Well, they seemed to use a different size and length sheet metal screw for every requirement. I thought of trying to source some replacements in stainless, but don't believe I would find all the shapes and sizes. So I will have a go at the originals, and none of them are missing.