Maytag Washer GA107A needs drive motor

[oldmaytag]

I have a Maytag model GA107A that needs a drive motor. My issue is that no look ups or cross references exist for a model GA107A. Is it unique in some way? I was told no replacement was available. It seems a model A107 exists, and the replacement that "may" work for that is PN 12002351. Will 12002351 work for GA107A? Will the wiring match up for the same form, fit, and function?

The PN on the actual drive motor that failed is 2-1664-7. I attached pictures of the part numbers since no one seems to be able to acknowledge they are legit.

 

[qsd-dan]

Any one speed motor from 1960-2006 will work. The most common part #'s are 201805 and 201664. The modern part# is 12002351.

 

This is the cheapest motor I could find. Be aware that the plastic motor cover from your round motor will most likely NOT fit on top of this square motor. As long as there's no leaks, you won't have an issue. I've seen these motors without a cover get drenched in bleach due to a leak and still operate fine for many years like that but it's certainly not ideal.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/276043458846?hash=item404578e91e:g:bPwAAOSwYXllAGR7&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4Pz45iecrT7%2Bx%2Fcc1s5iE9PsjH51hP8sQC8Yiw3qEJ1z9PTA9qQT369lkAffK0%2BUYZ0ZshVxl%2FccU79y5OTUw4L8Krbf%2FUig1wvzBudombHnIopwvKtA9Z%2FzAZHG4uG7zCoDwFdLdmoF2lTwuQMAtmuUOAN9riXiTy329ZTp6rpA5OQxLPVgefMFAO5eE8902CVTVMRgpPgFxfxTtM8TR3iml76FgpUlhw9yoN5763vABq8ADlvyCPpzs76zNMerBUgpJscetSjuKaXmDxfGb3c2hgIvfmEiP2xW9nAY1KPI%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9DXkYfoYg

 

[good-shepherd]

GA107A that needs a drive motor.

You sure it needs a new motor? They don't fail that often.

 

[combo52]

Single speed, Maytag Drive motor

Yes, as Dan mentioned these are plentiful should not have any trouble finding one they’re interchangeable all the way back to the early 60s.

It is very possible you need a new motor as your current washer has the awful Westinghouse motor that Maytag used in some of their washers at that time period.

How close to Cleveland are you? I’m sure my friend Bob would sell you a motor, and if you want to come to Beltsville, I’ll give you a motor. We get so many one speed motors for Maytag. I usually just throw them away.
John

 

[oldmaytag]

GA107A that needs a drive motor

Thanks, Good-Shepherd, combo52, and gsd-dan. Here are some answers and questions.

Good-Shepherd - I think the motor is bad because it will start spinning the drum for a few seconds to a minute or two, then stop. It is making a screech sound when it first starts. If I let it go, it will get too hot to touch. There is a smell of electrical burning. I removed the belts to take the load off the motor, and it did the same thing. It runs long enough to start smoking (still probably only a minute) with no load (belts). This discussion is good though, because how do I know that the transmission and clutch are OK? The motor has been getting weaker for some time - clothes were not as dry as they should be after final spin for the last year plus.

gsd-dan - thanks! my concern is the wiring. I have a green wire, not blue, and I am not sure everything would match up on that ebay motor. Any ideas on that? I don't know if they changed the internal wiring on different motors, so it might not be match the colors wiring job, and I would be concerned about frying the new to me motor experimenting.

combo32/John - 6.5 hours from Beltsville, 2 hours from Cleveland. Maybe there is some good kayaking your way and I can work it into a trip, LOL. Thanks for the offer, though and input.

Ongoing concerns:

1. If I buy the a single speed motor/12002351 - will I encounter issues with the wiring? I have 5 wires to connect in the right place for the right function, and it seems it will not be a straight color to color match up. I attached a pic of my current motor.

2. Is there a simple diagnostic I can do on the transmission to make sure it is working OK. I noticed a little oily residue on the bottom of it, but not enough to drip. It is from the 1970s, so perhaps not unexpected.

R,
Shawn 

 

[thatwasherguy]

The A107 motor will work with your machine...

The only real difference between the GA107 and the A107 is that the GA107 is harvest gold, while the A107 is white. According to your serial number, yours was made in June of 1978. I've included a few excerpts from my service manual that covers wiring in the motor, as well as some other information you may find useful. For the current draw tests, it lists the specifications for a two-speed motor. Just ignore the low-speed specs for your machine, as it only runs in high speed. My manual is a 1990 copy, so the part numbers are all old, but can be cross-referenced for modern ones. Maytag used several different companies for their motors. Yours was made by Westinghouse, while the one shown in the manual was made by either Emerson or General Electric. I have also heard reports of Maytag washers using A.C. Delco motors. Each brand had different connections, but the motors were all interchangeable, provided that they were both single or dual speed. If you want to keep the washer around for the long haul, I would also advise that you lubricate the damper pads, tub bearing wick, and water pump bearing. I would also advise replacing the drive belts and motor carriage glides if they appear worn.
Hope this helps,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[qsd-dan]

So I rummaged through various schematics and here's what I found.

 

Maytag used green (#21) up through the 10 series washers and switched the color to blue (still #21) by the 12 series machines up until the demise of helical platform in 2006. I think there were too many green wires running around and Maytag didn't want people getting confused so they changed the color. That's my guess. The motor I posted will work, just connect your green wire to the blue (BU) terminal.

 

The round style motor you have can be disassembled. I have been inside Westinghouse, AC Delco, and several different GE round style motors and most of them (not all) have the motor start switch contacts out in the open where you can visually inspect them for wear, burned contacts, or welded contacts. It's worth taking it apart and checking the contacts since it may possible to file or unstick a contact if it's causing trouble. You have nothing to lose at this point since the motor isn't working properly, anyway.

 

[combo52]

Westinghouse, laundry Appliance motors

I wouldn’t waste five minutes of my time trying to fix that motor, they weren’t great to begin with.

We always said in the field that the worst thing about Westinghouse washers and dryers were the fact that they had Westinghouse motors in them, both their front load washers and top load washers and dryers got so much better after WCI bought Westinghouse, and started putting GE motors in them.

It was a shame that maytag did not have the clout that whirlpool and Frigidaire had, and had to end up, getting stuck with Westinghouse motors and other crappy parts, like the Robert Shaw water valves and timers, used in their dryers to say nothing of the bad Kingston timers that were used to many Maytag top load washers.

John L

 

[oldmaytag]

I took the motor apart - I may have wasted more than 5 minut

John L./combo52 - saw your post about not wasting 5 minutes taking the motor a part AFTER I took it a part, LOL. Oh well, it is done now.

gsd-dan - well, I took the motor a part. Since I did, is there anything you suggest doing or not doing before putting it back together? What is the best way to clean the burnt contacts (shown in the pictures). They are not stuck together, but they are burnt.

 

[thatwasherguy]

For cleaning contacts...

I usually just use some sandpaper, or some sort of polishing compound, depending on how badly burned they are, and how well they can be accessed. If you go the sandpaper route, make sure you don't use too coarse of a grit. Otherwise, the contacts may end up with excessive pitting, resulting in them not making a good connection.
Hope this helps,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[qsd-dan]

If there's enough "meat" on the contact(s), file them just enough that there's shiny metal and the contacts are nice and flat. You can use a fingernail file to do the job.

 

[oldmaytag]

I took the motor a part - Part 2

See first message above for context.

I might have continued to waste my time, because maybe the motor is just worn out (not sure how to tell, except it doesn't work as expected), but I made the black/carbon contacts a bit shinier with fine sandpaper and brake cleaner. Is there anything else I should try or do before putting the motor back together?

 

[qsd-dan]

If you have turbine oil on hand, re-soak the wicking for the bearings at each end. 

 

When reassembling the motor, you'll need to tighten the motor housing screws evenly so everything is centered and the shaft doesn't bind. You need to turn the shaft occasionally while doing this.

 

[oldmaytag]

I have no turbine oil

I have no turbine oil. I have grease in various forms, motor oil 5w-20 and 5w-30m and 30 weight (no detergent) straight motor oil, fine oils (Wahl) for shavers, clippers, shears, 3 in 1 oil, PB Blaster, WD 40, Silicon, Liquid Wrench super household oil, and some synthetic 80w -90w gear oil. I think that is about it. Any of those OK for the wicking?

I could order some turbine oil, but I am not even sure the motor will run, so I might be replacing it anyway.

 

[oldmaytag]

Super Oil and the wick

This stuff (see pic) specifically mentions electric motors, so, unless I get some different input, I might try a little of that. I also included a picture of what I am assuming is the "wick". Let me know if I am correct. Thanks.

Shawn

 

[qsd-dan]

Super Oil

Not familiar with that product but it appears it'll do the job just fine. 

 

[qsd-dan]

Something else that came to my mind, make sure the spring loaded actuator for the centrifugal switch operates smoothly and is not stuck. I use graphite to lubricate the friction points on them.

 

[combo52]

Servicing an old style bolt together motor

Yes, the oil you have is just fine for the bearings and you can use as Dan mentioned either graphite or silicone lube or something on the actuator assembly on the rotor.

Hopefully you marked where the ends go with a scribe line or a sharpie Motors like this need to be reassembled in the exact same positions they came apart from.

John L

 

[oldmaytag]

Motor seems to be working after the tear down

I did 3 loads of wash and the motor is working great so far. I hope it lasts. It did get warm during peak spinning, but a comfortable temperature that I could keep my hand on. Really, all I ended up doing was cleaning everything up, cleaning up the contact points, and oiling the wicks.

I want to thank everyone for all the info and advice. I learned a lot - everything from the G in my model number was for "harvest gold" to all kinds of other stuff. I know to mark the motor ends if I take it a part again. I got lucky this time, John L.

I actually was going to buy a replacement motor, but I was not going to be around for delivery next week, so was going to wait, then gsd-dan suggested taking the existing motor a part. I was thinking about that anyway to check out the magnets. Of course, I have since learned it is an induction motor, so no magnets, but I was able to get it running again.

If there is some link on this site that defines some basic parts and terminology, please point me in that direction. It was actually fun to learn what I have learned.

You guys are much more knowledgeable than calling Maytag or any parts place. Fantastic info from guys with real world experience. Nothing beats that. Thank you very much for the help. It was much appreciated.

Shawn