Maytag Washer GA107A needs drive motor

[qsd-dan]

Glad it worked out, I've brought back a few Maytag HOH motors, one SOH motor, and a couple of washer motors using these techniques. There isn't much to them and they're usually fixable as long as a winding isn't open or a bearing is completely trashed.

 

These motors do run warm, especially after a spin. This is perfectly normal operation.

 

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Fantastic info from guys with real world experience. Nothing beats that.

 

Indeed!

 

[thatwasherguy]

Yay!!

Glad to hear you were able to save the original motor. Here’s to the next 45 years of washing!!
Thatwasherguy.

 

[oldmaytag]

Maytag is down again - motor was good for 50 loads

We have done maybe 50 loads of wash since I "fixed" the motor, but it made a humming noise this morning during the final spin cycle and was not spinning the drum, so I had to shut it down. Guess I could take it apart again. Maybe my alignment was off a bit on the reassembly, or, maybe the motor is worn out. If anyone has some thoughts, I'll be glad to read them. Looks like I'll probably be ordering a new PN 12002351 in the near future though.

 

[oldmaytag]

Maytag is down again - motor was good for 50 loads

We have done maybe 50 loads of wash since I "fixed" the motor, but it made a humming noise this morning during the final spin cycle and was not spinning the drum, so I had to shut it down. Guess I could take it apart again. Maybe my alignment was off a bit on the reassembly, or, maybe the motor is worn out. If anyone has some thoughts, I'll be glad to read them. Looks like I'll probably be ordering a new PN 12002351 in the near future though.

As a follow up, after I let the motor cool, it finished the load with no issues. It seems to be at its end of life though, so maybe I should source a motor and have it ready to go.

 

[thatwasherguy]

What’s line voltage like in your area?

Maytag washers of this vintage had no start capacitor installed from the factory, which makes them susceptible to issues starting in areas prone to low voltage issues. Other issues can also cause the motor to stall, such as too much tension on the belt, or the use of a non-OEM belt. Maytag used special fabric-coated belts to act as a clutch, and many after market belts either have no fabric or don’t have enough. If none of these things are the culprit, then it sounds like your motor is, indeed, bad.
Hope this helps,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[thatwasherguy]

Just saw your updated post…

It sounds like your motor may be over-amping. According to my service manual, your motor shouldn’t draw more than 6.0 amps continuously during agitation, 6.5 amps continuously during the acceleration into spin, and 6.0 amps continuously at full speed in spin.
Hope this helps,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[oldmaytag]

No idea if it is over amping or what to do if it is

Voltage seems good at 125 volts according to my meter. Not sure about the over-amping. I tried to look it up, but it told me not to do too many stimulants or meth. No worries, there, LOL.

 

[combo52]

It’s time for another motor

As I said in a previous post, you’re just beating your head against the wall to try to fix a Westinghouse motor that’s 50 years old, you can add a start capacitor to any Maytag washer but if you have 125 V you don’t need it it’s good and low voltage situations where you have just barely over 110 V, for example.

I often used to add a start capacitor to Maytag washers because they did have trouble starting.

If you want to pay for packing and shipping, I will give you a one speed motor for this machine. We literally throw them away regularly because there’s no market for them, the two speed motor is much more often needed.

John

 

[thatwasherguy]

Over amping occurs whenever an electric motor draws more current than it is rated for. This leads to it overheating if it occurs for any serious length of time. To check amp draw, you can do a couple of things. The first is to buy a multimeter with an amp clamp built in. Clamp the amp clamp over one leg (either hot or neutral) of the wiring going to the motor. Your machine is basic enough that you could also purchase a kill-a-watt electric meter that measures current draw, and read it that way. If it is over amping without the belt being too tight or in bad shape, then it is likely bad.
Hope this helps,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[oldmaytag]

John/combo52 -- I'll take you up on that offer for a mot

The old motor is sort of limping along for now, but I'll take a non Westinghouse single speed motor if you have a good one. Certainly, the existing motor will act up again, so next time I tear it out, I would like to replace it with another motor. I'll email my info so I can pay for packing and shipping.

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Reference:

As I said in a previous post, you’re just beating your head against the wall to try to fix a Westinghouse motor that’s 50 years old, you can add a start capacitor to any Maytag washer but if you have 125 V you don’t need it it’s good and low voltage situations where you have just barely over 110 V, for example.

I often used to add a start capacitor to Maytag washers because they did have trouble starting.

If you want to pay for packing and shipping, I will give you a one speed motor for this machine. We literally throw them away regularly because there’s no market for them, the two speed motor is much more often needed.

John

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Shawn

 

[oldmaytag]

combo52 - John -- It is time for another motor

John, did you get the email I sent to your email as listed in your profile? I am interested in a non-Westinghouse single speed motor, paying for shipping and packaging.

No big deal if you changed your mind, I still appreciate all the advice I have received here. I just want to know either way so I can explore different options.

R,

Shawn