McClary washer 1974 Transmission

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tinkering

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Apr 19, 2022
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39
Location
Alberta
1974 McClary washer Mod YWG1118W1291
Sometimes the spin doesn't get up to speed.
It's leaking water from underneath more now too but that is probably just the tub seal?
I recently did a revamp job in this forum, on the tub rust and scrud buildup etc. but I can't find the thread.
These McClary washers were made by GE I think? Where can I find a tranny or a rebuild kit?
 
Do you mean this thread?

 
Yes, thanks, that is the thread.
The old lady has developed another symptom. When it spins it seems to take quite awhile to get up to speed; it seems like about the last minute of the final spin it finally reaches the full spin speed. The speed seems like half of full speed during the first spin, the rinse spin, and the first part of the final spin.
Does that sound normal or does it sound like a typical symptom of a dying transmission or something? I'm not aware of the internal workings of the transmissions. Are there clutches and things that can slip etc.?
 
When it spins it seems to take quite awhile to get up to spe

Sounds like the clutch needs to be replaced (ideal), or at a minimum have the shoes replaced. I don't recall if the machine is a single speed or two speed machine. Here are full clutch replacements, at the ready.

Two Speed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/404295561670

Single Speed: https://www.ebay.com/itm/404295525367

GE Washer Belt (1961 thru 1995): https://www.ebay.com/itm/195760440895

One piece of advice I will provide. Depending on how long the original clutch has been in place on the motor, it can sometimes be difficult to remove the full assembly. There are GE service manuals on AE.org that can provide more specific detail on the full removal and installation process. You'll need a pin punch set to remove the roll pin holding the outer drum on, as well as a two or three jaw puller to possibly remove both drums and shaft extension. A torch and some penetrating oil also may come in handy if parts are frozen in place.

Ben
 
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GEs use a centrifugal clutch on the motor similar to a go-kart clutch for the spin runup-2 speed clutch pulley groove is cast aluminum and very wear prone-wears out and belt slips badly.In the transmission is a spring clutch that grips when motor runs in spin direction-if this wears out and slips,washer will agitate during spin runup :)Problem is most likely loose/oily belt,worn out clutch pulley or clutch pads worn.
 
Here is an interesting update. I did a full load and I watched closely. After the first spin cycle, and after the rinse fill was complete, tbe agitator did not want to start. I managed to coax the agitator to go after helping it by hand several time. This time, with this large full load, the final spin cycle was slow and did not reach full speed at all.
 
The agitation seemed very sluggish as well, with this large full load. Do these symptoms say transmission. Is there a clutch slipping somewhere? I don't know.
 
swestoyz Ben,
Thanks for those links. I contacted the seller to see if they will ship to Canada. I think I downloaded manuals for this washer (and dryer) when I was working on it previously but I can't find the downloads. Will keep looking.
Sounds like I will have to remove both tubs to change the clutch? ... and/or the seal?

cfz2882,
Thanks for that great info.

combo52 John,
This thing is 50 years old and has never had a belt as far as I can remember, or a clutch (unless they come as part of the motor?). How much of a tear down am I looking at to change the clutch assembly? How much of a tear down to do the main seal?

Thanks for your great info friends!
 
I think it agitates slower on the 'delicate' setting; would that mean it is a 2 speed clutch?
Does a 2 speed clutch spin at a slower speed at first and then kick into a faster speed to finish?
 
I have an update.
The clutch is indeed a 2 speed version.

The main water leak is coming from the water pump shaft seal. It pours from there when spinning and pumping. I replaced that pump in 2014,so it's not that old but it looks like it needs one.

The belt seems a little looser than optimum. Is there a way to adjust the tension or is that done solely by replacing the belt and or pulley?

I have a suspicion that the clutch slippage might be partially due to the water leak from the pump shaft seal is making it's way inside the clutch. Has anybody ever found that to be the case? I might try replacing the pump and the belt before going to the clutch assembly, and pulley?
In the picture you can see the water draining right onto the opening on the side of the clutch; I think that opening is something to do with the clutch shoe movement.

tinkering-2023052911492509908_1.jpg

tinkering-2023052911492509908_2.jpg
 
General electric, Filter Flow washer, slipping belt

Hi, replace the pump before you ruin the clutch and the motor.

It also needs a new belt. You still have the original belt on this machine.

Nine years is not bad for a water pump, replacement parts are not as good as the originals and often don’t last as long.

John.
 
New belt and pump are in. It's spinning and agitating strong again. The clutch survives for another day in the future. I am impressed that belt lasted 49 years! it was on it's last leg though, not far from breaking.
 

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