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Did you know that Miele in Mexico sells both washer and dryer at 220V.
The W1 and T1 are delivered without a plug and the manual let you suppose that they are also sold in England as they talk about the warranty offered by Miele UK.
The best part ... the price.
The washer has a price of 3,465 USD (66,900 MX Pesos)
The dryer costs 3,620 USD (69,900 MX Pesos)
Apparently sales are going well and what most convinces people is the capacity of 9kg. of clothes since the w3033 offered 6kg. with very few sales.
The price? Who is going to buy Miele already knows in advance that it is expensive. Energy saving? In Mexico this concept is not very common in the population.
2 or 3 hours of washing and drying? Nor do they worry so much because who buys this type of equipment, they have a maid at home and she will use them. The bad part, nobody reads the instructions manual.
 
Cotton (Short option) does a very effective wash in 59 mins.
I tend to use that for lightly soiled stuff - which is most of my clothes.
If I'm doing towels they go on at 75°C and it takes about 2:14 to do.
 
@washingpowder

The refillable bottles are not much sturdier than the UltraPhase 1/2 bottles. The only real difference is the hole on the top of the cartridge with a cap on the refillable cartridge. As I said before using a funnel is not really any harder than using the refillable bottle with the hole on the top.

The ingredients for UltraPhase 1 and UltraPhase 2 are posted online. Here are the links:

Phase 1:
https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71PpAUDMgsS.pdf

Phase 2:
https://www1.miele.com/pmedia/ZGP/data_sheet/100125572-000-00_UltraPhase2_11997107.pdf

Our family goes through a LOT of detergent due to the amount of laundry. Tide PurClean can be bought in 75oz bottles for about $7.50/bottle when Target or another store has it or cleaning products in the store app with cash back and then combine with manufacturer coupons. That makes it .10/oz. The Miele Ultraphase 1 cartridge costs $19/50oz bottle. This makes it .38/oz. Almost 4x more expensive.

We dose Phase 1 at 17ml. If all loads had 17ml that means Tide would cost 5.75 CENTS per load vs Miele at 21.84 CENTS per load.

Cost per week (50 loads per week)
Miele: $10.92
Tide: $2.88

Cost per year (50 loads per week)
Miele: $567.84
Tide: $149.76

Savings per year with Tide vs Miele: $418.08
Savings over five years Tide vs Miele: $2090.40

This is only for the detergent portion of the TwinDos system. If you add in Phase 2 as well the savings is larger.

As you can see using Tide vs Miele will save the entire cost of the washer over a five year span. I picked five years because we will most likely reach 10,000 hours within the next five years. 10,000 hours is the design life of the W1. So just switching to Tide and using coupons can save you the entire cost of the machine over it's life. It's not an insignificant choice.

Lets look at time savings of TwinDos vs pouring detergent in the slot. Lets assume an average cycle length is 1.5 hours. This means 6,666 cycles in the design life of the machine. If it takes you one minute to retrieve the detergent bottle, measure the correct amount and pour it in the traditional drawer in the washer you will spend 111 Hours dispensing detergent.

If you figure $15 an hour you have a time cost of money of $1665. Meaning if you had to pay someone a decent wage as a maid the cost to dispense detergent over the life of the machine; that is what it would cost. Now we have to deduct off the time to swap a Miele TwinDos bottle. We will call this one minute. Since each bottle, at 17ml per load, will last you 88 loads this means you will use about 75 TwinDos bottles over the design life of the machine. The time cost of money to swap TwinDos bottles is $18.75. There is zero time spent filling the detergent drawer since TwinDos does this for you. That means the TwinDos system would save you about $1645 over it's design life. This assumes you value your time in this manner.

If you have to spend time refilling the factory bottles with your own detergent then you have to put five minutes into each bottle swap. That is how long it takes me to take out the bottle, refill it and reinsert. That means 6.25 hours spent refilling over the life of the machine for a time cost of money of $93.75. Even with manually refilling, the TwinDos system still saves you about $1570 over the next five years. Look at it another way: you have 104 more hours to go do something else other than pour detergent in a drawer. That is like having an extra 2.5 weeks of paid vacation over the next five years or 3.5 extra days of paid vacation per year.

Even if it saved you only half that amount, the TwinDos system still more than pays for itself in saved time. You also no longer have detergent spills or bottles sitting out in the laundry room. It stays cleaner.
 
It would

But it dosen't.

While technicaly your time is money, it isn't. You don't get paid for it.
That is why while calculating that in is technicaly correct, it dosen't really matter.

Further, assuming you a) dose Miele detergents according to specs and b) you use fabric softner that you still have to dose manually and c) you don't always use the same detergent, paying quadrouple in detergent dosen't really matter.
And compared to all other tasks involved in laundry, dosing is minimal to non-considerable timewise.

Add potential service trouble (why is there other detergent in the pipes?) and the point gets questionable.

See it that way:
A bottle Mieles detergent is twice the Tide you mentioned, about an hours wage you assumed vs half that.
So, for a full cartridge round you would have to work 2h, for the Tide 30min.
So you would have to save 90min to get equal.
Which would mean 90 loads.

That is not considering cheaper detergent options that will for most parts work as well if you know what to buy OR sales (Miele dosen't do sales).
 
Think about all the people that use too much detergent. How many times do we read about people with smelly front loaders? They do cold water washes with too much detergent and then a few months later they wind up with a smelly, moldy washer?

Hot washes and proper dispensing will fix those problems. A Dosing system that prevents over dosing will also help. From a manufacturers standpoint it should improve customer happiness with the appliance (not necessarily reliability).

As for time value of money, at least in my family, we CAN make money with that extra time. My wife runs our vegetable farm in addition to running the house. If she can rely on a 10 year old to sort light and dark and just push color or white under TwinDos, then she doesn't neeed to be inside babysitting the wash all day.

She can be outside making sure the hired help or the older kids are doing their jobs, etc. So for her it removes the worry that she will come back inside in an hour or two and the machine is belching out foam on the floor.

I agree not everyone will be able to do this so they may think this calculation is academic and not practical. However, most of us can go do something else with that time. Start making a meal, fold laundry, etc. It is a small amount of time, but it does add up.

Now if a person can not afford the appliance in the first place, then it doesn't matter how much time it may save.
 
I have the W1 and I would be surprised if anyone in the USA could dose Twin Dos according to the specs in the manual. The dosing in the manual calls for much too much detergent probably because the manual is thinking in terms of German water which is certainly harder, at least than mine.

I don't do anywhere near as much laundry as Moon does so refilling the bottles is not concerning to me plus you can still use your own detergent when you want to. I am still working on my purchase of Persil Megaperls from early last year so I am alternating laundry days with it and the Miele twin dos.

In terms of wash programs, the machine offers a program for just about any fabric you can think of. I have been using the baby clothes cycle on my cotton underwear because it defaults to 3 rinses and you can add an extra rinse giving you 4. The Normal program offers temperatures up to 140F but I did test the exit water on the 120F wash and it was at 110F so I am sure it lowers the temp somewhat due to Energy Star. The only thing I don't like about the Normal cycle is that you cannot adjust the spin speed. It is set at 1600rpms and you cannot lower it. From an energy saving standpoint for drying, I understand that but I would rather use a lower spin speed on some cycles since I have a gas dryer. You can adjust the spin speeds for all of the other cycles on the machine so It is not really necessary for me to use the Normal cycle

You also can use the max rinse level setting which raises the rinse water level to 1/3 above bottom of the door in every rinse so that is good for those that want to make sure clothes are well rinsed.

So far I am very pleased with the washer and it does offer much more flexibility than the 3XXX or 4XXX series. It is also larger than the 3XXX but I don't know if it is as large as the 4XXX was. I can wash my poly queen comforter in it with no problem and I don't think I will ever have a bed larger than that.
 
To be fair American consumers do like litigation and laws being what they are often a company (am looking at you Maytag) can't win for trying. Especially if things go to class action status.

With that in mind maybe Miele has decided to nip certain things in the but by taking away certain options. MieleUSA thus corporate parent in Germany is well aware of hobbyist groups such as ourselves. They also know information is exchanged, and while they can control official distribution channels, that always isn't case otherwise.
 
110F Exit temp

Mieles new machines use something called "guided energy use" which optimizes EVERY cycle towards efficiency without affecting results.

Gist of it is that if the machine nears the end of the main wash and reheating would basically take almost to the end of the mainwash it doesn't reheat.

So let's say there are 10min left in the mainwash and water temperature dropped to 115F on a 120F cycle.
If it were to start heating again, it would hit 120F with 5min left. So all the freshly heated water would be dumped almost immediately.
Thus it just skips the heating.
 
Thanks for the German water hardness levels since I don't know what to look for online.

I thought about the possibility of the heater not activating near the end of the wash and I am Ok with that. The thing is that when I first got the machine I measured the exit water for each program I ran, and it was on the Normal program that the difference was 10 degrees or more. On normal 105F, wash water came out at 82F! On other programs, the difference is small or equal to the setting of the wash temp. I understand why since it is the program used to get the energy measurements, and the manual even states so. Normal also won't use as much water as the rest if you select a max rinse setting. I get it. I don't mind doing a 120F and having the water exit at 110F it is that 1600rpm spin that really keeps me from using the Normal program on some things.

One common habit people seem to have( does not apply to people who are on this forum) is that they do not read any user manual, so simply stating not to use chlorine bleach in the manual is not enough to stop them from trying it. The washer does allow the use of chlorine bleach in a wash, but that use must be activated in the settings to work. I don't use chlorine bleach so the setting is off. I am glad I can still use whatever detergent I want to by putting it in the dispenser, but so far the Twin Dos detergent is performing very well. It is not foamy and there is not much of any scent that I can detect. I have suffered from detergent allergies so I am very glad that I can use a machine that will give me enough water for what I think is adequate rinsing.
 
Far as one can tell neither of my AEG Lavamat washers will heat water after a set period. OTOH the much older Miele will engage thermostat anytime during wash cycle if it senses a drop in water temperature. Know this because there is a very audible "clunk" whenever thermostat engages and or turns off heaters.

Have to say always found it rather silly and wasteful to heat water with say < 10 or so minutes left in cycle.
 
I washed kitchen towels this morning and decided to use the Normal cycle. This is the Cottons cycle that was renamed to Normal. I set the max rinse level on and used 3 rinses. The spins between the rinses were good. The estimated time was 1:30 which reduced to 1:05 after a few minutes. Good water in the wash. The first two rinses used the max rinse level setting, but the last rinse used the regular rinse level. I don't know if that happens if you don't select extra rinse.

I selected 140F for the wash temp, then ran the water at the laundry sink to measure the temperature. It was 120F. The wash portion lasted 21 minutes. I captured the wash water in a bucket and measured the temperature which was 102F. It doesn't look like too much water heating takes place on the Normal cycle, because after all, it is the Eco cycle.
 
So glad my old Miele W4449

Does not have the technology to dumb down water temperature I have zapped it many times with the laser temp probe and on a normal cottons 60c it heats to about 56c or should I say it peaks at 56c but if I use the Hygiene cycle it heats to exactly 60c and maintains that temperature for minimum of 12 minutes thus making it a lovely cycle to use for white bedding and towels as it activates the bleach in the powder and as its a longer wash portion of the cycle it gives fantastic results, On a side note I had to pull it out today to see if we had a leak on the pipes I had forgotten how bloody heavy it was..... My poor hernia.

Austin
 
This type of temp reduction only happens on the Normal cycle. The USA Energy conservation program requires that the cycle used for energy rating has to be named "NORMAL". In my opinion, this was done to trick consumers into using this cycle since it is named for normal clothes. All of the other cycles on the machine heat very well.
 
German water hardness

Learned ages ago when first began using Persil that dosage direction on packets were rubbish. We have very soft water in NYS, and using recommended amounts would cause no end of troubles.

Indeed for nearly all European or any detergent from overseas find can use vastly less. That Saudi Arabian Persil Stan and I did a swap with calls for nearly one cup or more per wash load. Neither the Miele or either AEG would have any of it.
 
We do have extremely soft water areas in Germany, but they`re not as prevalent as hard water areas.
What Americans define as moderately hard is still considered soft in Europe, but that doesn`t mean we don`t have very soft water too. It only means the span of the definition soft is bigger here.

The biggest difference is that dosing instructions in Europe are based on 4,5 kg dry weight.
In the US dosing instructions are typically based on a "medium load" which is only 4 lb of dry weight. 4 lb are roughly 1,8 kg or in other words a vintage Miele not even loaded half full of clothes.

But to stay on topic what makes it so hard to use a second motor in an electric dryer ?
I take it that European dryers are very limited in drum diameter because of standardized cabinet size. So you`d think proper reversing should be essential for drying large items evenly and wrinkle free.
I wonder if it is because there is not enough room in the cabinet for an additional motor ? It`s not about costs only, is it ?
 
Cost & Efficency

There certainly is enough room.
AEGs first heatpump dryers did use 2 motors with the fan motor intrgrated in the fan at the back.
Miele used to use 2 seperate motors (TwinPower).
These motors are relativley compact and can be mounted right next to each other right behind the compressor on the bottom right.

Main reason was cost.
Heatpump dryers used to be twice the price of other dryers.
BSH were the first to cut cost to only about 50% with their first BlueTherm dryers.

Next thing was efficency.
One motor is somewhat more efficent then 2 seperate motors.
IIRC ELux had a 150W fan motor and a 110W drum motor with a 550W compressor.
Our current A+++ dryer has an approximate combined power draw of about 560W with the heatpump at 420W (compressor is an LG EA-078 PAA), so 140W for the motor.
While that is only 200W difference round about and only 120W of that on the motors, that is over one 2,5h cycle almost half a kWh of which 300 or so Wh is down to the motors.
That is maybe one efficency class for just the motor savings.
 

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