Miele W1065

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I never realized that with what i have read here about the yuck that can accumulate in the washer. I looked at mine today...granted the washer is only less than a month old...I did find that the main wash side where the flap is to hold in detergent is getting a buildup on a couple of pieces. I rinsed that off and I am going to keep up with keeping it clean. Nothing worse than a smelly washer with mold...my sister's LG is kinda ripe and I am going to have to clean it out for her. It has never been properly cleaned and I can smell the yuck on her clothes...she doesnt notice it but I do. In Maine the water is naturally soft and hopefully I wont have to look into a descaling product for the heater.
Now wouldnt using the wrong detergent like a one for a top loader being in a front loader also create an enviornment with all the suds to deposit gunk on the insides. We have a tenant that uses regular Tide Liquid in the Maytag Neptune and coupled with that gawd awful lavender Downy its really stinkin up the machine. I have "suggested " that he use Tide HE or an HE product...but he wont use it since they dont make the matching scent ...Lavender Tide ...Now you can imagine that his clothes come out smelling like a French whorehouse...and he likes that...eeeewww.
 
All of the scented liquid versions of Tide detergent leave a residue behind in the machine that takes days to leave, if ever. One reason stopped using the Lavender/Rose Tide liquid is that the plastic/rubber parts of my Miele (detergent drawer, door boot),reeked of the stuff days after use.
 
Wow its not just me then....i thought that I was being kinda petty but I am glad to see that I am not alone.
 
Thanks Launderess. But I was asking about the motor on the 1918, which is slightly buzzy during the tumble action (not during spin). But I imagine that if the 1065/70 motors don't have brushes, then neither does the 1918.

Another issue cropped up during last night's washing of work duds in the 1918. The pump got sort of noisy, as it it were loose on some sheet metal. So I'll have to inspect the coin trap again (it was clean as a whistle when I checked it the first day), but maybe I let a coin get in there. Or, perhaps its mountings are loose and I'm going to need to peek inside the cabinet. It's not obvious to me what's the best way to open this thing up, so if you have any insight there I'd appreciate it. I hate to be taking out the wrong fasteners and have some internal component take a dive ;-)
 
Just add Tequila

Well, ran a short cotton wash at 140F, with the aforementioned lime juice - 1.5 cups worth.

Lots of suds... not too surprising, since it foamed a bit in the coffee maker as well. But there were lingering suds in the rinse, which leads me to think that at some point in the recent past the former owners overdosed the washer with high sudsing detergent. The suds subsided considerably by the last rinse, but still too much. The water came out pretty clean, with a few white granules - lime scale, no doubt. There might be more, don't know at this point. The stainless wash basket looks fine, but it did to begin with anyway.

So next step is to run the washer with about a cup of STPP (with a little sodium metasilicate to protect washer parts) at 200F on a long cotton wash. If that doesn't get rid of the suds residue, I don't know what might. The water came out pretty clean, with a few white granules - lime scale, no doubt. The STPP treatment will probably have to wait until this weekend, when I have more time to tend to the volumes of water that require manual intervention with the sump pump in the bucket, lol.

I will agree that the washer is entertaining, with all sorts of interesting sounds. And lots of water.
 
Wow, cool, congratulations, Rich!

As for the plug, yes, that is the "official" plug for those machines, they are whatever NEMA wants you to use for a 220V 15A appliance. That's because the neutral is not needed, just two hots and a ground. While it may be true that in Germany they use a hot and a neutral to get the 220V, the truth is that a Schuko plug is reversible and the distribution system at the time the plug was invented was insulated from ground, that is, the only ground (if there was one) was the one connected to the appliance, making the concept of a "neutral" wire a bit odd. Both conductors are insulated and not connected to any frame of the appliance, making it easy to just use two hots to obtain 220V like we do here. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Earthing_system for more info on our system(s) (TT, TN) and theirs (IT).

If you get too much trouble from excess suds, I can tell you that I've been happy with the combination of regular detergents and defoamer. Give it a try.

Cheers,
-- Paulo
 
Oh, forgot to say, if the descaler has Maleic acid, it might be the same stuff they have in dishwasher cleaners (like Glisten or JetDry Dishwasher Cleaner), altho you should check it, if I remember right at least one version of the JeDry cleaner had Sulfamic acid instead -- while it might not make any difference it you are cleaning a dishwasher or a clothes washer, I have no idea if one of the acids is not appropriate for say, the rubber boots.

Good luck!
 
Paulo,

Thanks.

Interesting info on the plug. In both cases the "ground" pin was connected to the white neutral wire from the washer. The green ground wire was simply clipped off. (The washers have four conductor wire cables: black, red, white, and green.).

Unfortunatetly the previous owner of the W1065 set clipped the original washer and dryer power cables about a foot or two short, and used the remnant to fabricate a splitter assembly to connect to a standard 3 prong 30 amp 220 volt dryer outlet. Although he said he would include the splitter with the purchase, once I had paid him and loaded the machines on my truck, he refused to give them over, saying he'd need them for a Bosch set they were getting. Sheesh. Anyway, it looks like I will have to rewire the washer and dryer with longer power cables, as the existing cables barely reach the shop outlets, and I'd rather avoid having little extension cables.
 
Ebay rule number one when picking up a prize; Gets all dat is yours before forking over da cash!

Keep your eyes peeled on FleaBay, Miele power cords and even that splitter doodad pop up there often enough. IIRC a spilter was just up last week. Of course you can just order either new from Miele, but not sure about the cost.

L.
 
I think the cost of the Miele splitter is about $90. However, it wouldn't do me much good anyway in the shop, as the 220 outlets there are of the twist-lock variety, as I picturd earlier in this thread. I have just enough of those to connect these three Miele's: two washers, and a dryer, direct to the wall outlets. If I should happen to move them to the main house, where there's a more conventional dryer outlet, I could fabricate another splitter to handle that connection.

I need to run some water lines into the shop, and extend a drain line from where the washers are to the one and only drain 50 feet away.
 
I can tell you that splitter is not $90...try $250. When I bought my Miele set they...the dealer...didnt know about the adapter the 4 wire to 3 wire 240v cord. They were going to sell me the splitter that connected to the 3 wire 240 that I have. I called Miele and they told me that I only needed the 4/3 adapter that cost me $70. When the guys came to deliver the washer and dryer they had no idea how it worked or how to install it. Plus the splitter is only for the smaller Miele machine like you have and I was told that you cant run both at the same time...doesnt make sense to me.
 
Mainman,

You were told wrong... the requirements of the smaller Miele 220 volt washers is only 15 amps 220 volts. Same for the dryer. So, together, they require 30 amps 220 volts, which is what the standard American dryer outlet supplies.

Anyway, it's not rocket science to create a new splitter; just requires some judicious wiring and the correct plugs and sockets. I haven't priced out the cost of additional pigtail sockets; I happen to have enough in my shop from the previous homeowner's collection to create a splitter. But I will be searching for more plugs as I have some other 220 volt equipment that needs to be adapted to the multiple outlets already in place on the shop walls (and hanging from the rafters).

If you were told that you can't run an American style electric dryer and a 220 volt Miele washer off the same outlet, that is correct.
 
Suds Surprise

Well, today I set about "cleaning" out the W1065 washer of scale etc.

Ran 2 oz of STPP/Silicate through the prewash, and 4 oz through the main wash. Lo and behold, as the mainwash heated up, suds galore. Enought to cover the window and bring out the fabric softener to suppress the foam so I could stop the cycle and drain and rinse the thing. Ran several more main washes (skipping prewash) with more STPP and same result. Major suds. Checked the STPP in a shaken jar of hot water; no suds. So the suds were coming from inside the washer.

Cleaned out the detergent drawer cavity. It needed it, but I didn't find any obvious source of excess suds. My conjecture - since I know the couple I bought this from have a young daughter - is that the tyke dropped some regular hand soap bars (maybe the little hotel size or leftover remnants of larger bars) under the detergent drawer directly into the outer wash tub. Thus, the bars are lingering there and dissolving and creating suds whenever the water heats up (especially when it's got plenty of STPP to make the water soft).

My solution at present is to run multiple main washes at 200F with STPP, adding some fabric softener at the end to suppress suds enough to do a good drain, then rinse, drain, and repeat until the suds are gone. So far, must have run about five main washes, still over-sudsing.

I *wish* the previous owner had been honest and revealed this problem - surely they must have known this washer has a built-in sudsing issue. But the upside is that other than that, and some grunge, the washer appears to be in fairly good mechanical condition.

I'm currently letting the washer "soak" in the main wash with the power off, and going to the hardware store to pick up plumbing supplies. If I find a carpet cleaner foam suppressor and dishwasher cleaner I'll get those as well.

Never a dull moment. But I *will* "master" these suds.
 
Thats what I thought ...the guy I had a feeling didnt know what he was talking about at all. Doesnt surprise me. I knew that the smaller Mieles were 15 amps and i said that if you hook it up to a 30 circuit it should work at the same time. So another guy at the dealer backed up what the first guy said...I think if I buy anything else...and it wont be for a while....it wont be from that dealer. I told Miele when i called them for my dead washer episode that the guys at the dealer had no clue and that as a company selling high end products that maybe just maybe there should be some training going on.
Anyways its good to see that you seem happy with your machines....I know I love mine.
 
Not to burst your theory, but due to the design of the "chute" that leads into the tub, those soap bars would have to be very small indeed; so msmall as to be almost of an non-thought because water, time and temperature would have melted them down. Unless of course the child was dumping soap chips down there by the cups full. Also am almost certian there is a divider bar on top of said chute, that alone would prevent large objects from going down into the machine. In fact it sort of makes sense as a washing machine protection system, to keep small objects like children's toys and such out of the washer.

Depending upon water conditions of the previous users,type or types of detergent used, amounts and often used water temperatures, you may have a VERY bad case of detergent/muck build up between the inner and outer tubs. Sort of like the soap and muck mess that gets trapped in grease traps on bathroom sinks from all that undissloved soap.
 
Rug Doctor

Just got back from HW Store #1. No 4 wire 12 ga cable. No hot water hose (need 75 feet to run from sump pump to drain in back of shop). No dishwasher cleaner.

But, they did have Rug Doctor anti-foam, and it works nicely at suppressing the suds in the 1065. I'm letting it sit with a drum full of 200F water as I go out shopping, then come back and let it tumble for a while. If the suds build up again, add more Rug Doctor. Repeat as needed. Eventually I'll get tired of this, or the suds will finally stop forming. Also adding more STPP as I go, just to make sure I'm not creating more soap scum.

Off to HW Store #2. Found a plug/recepticle that "looks" like what the shop is fitted with, but came home to pick up a sample in order to be 100% sure. Looks like an NEMA L6, but the ones I have are pat pending Hubbell with no NEMA numbers.

Later.

(Can't say I'm completely in love with either Miele at this point, as they both need some TLC, lol).
 

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