Sudsy wash with Virginal FL towels.
These towels had never been FL'd before. Look at the suds that washed out.
These towels had never been FL'd before. Look at the suds that washed out.
Miele Washer & Dryer
- Thread starter brisnat81
- Start date
Help Support :
Dispensors
Left is prewash, middle is Fabric Softener, Right is mainwash
Left is prewash, middle is Fabric Softener, Right is mainwash
Great pictures. Thanks for sharing them. Have you tried out the Perm Press? It uses a lot of water cooling the wash water down. It pumps out and takes in water several times. I loved watching my mother's old Miele do this.
BTW, the "0" on the left dial is power off. On the "Stop" there is still power on the machine.
There is quite a lot of softener in the compartment. You shouldn't put more in there than the little line in front of the dispenser, if not a little less. If you close the dispenser you can easily make the dispenser empty itself prematurely.
This model is one of the first without a row of holes in the detergent dispenser. The older models had holes on the left and right side of the handle. The backside of the flap (the inside of the dispenser) was slanted a little towards the outside. They were meant for the steam to escape. I guess the Miele designers found it not necessary. I remember though the steam coming from the machine when my mother (or I) would do a boil wash.
IIRC the doorseals were a bit harder to begin with. More than the newer models. After 21 years of use my mother's machine was replaced, the original seal was still on it.
I hope you can get the dryer to work again. It was an expensive matching set when it was new.
Bringing up great memories!
Louis
BTW, the "0" on the left dial is power off. On the "Stop" there is still power on the machine.
There is quite a lot of softener in the compartment. You shouldn't put more in there than the little line in front of the dispenser, if not a little less. If you close the dispenser you can easily make the dispenser empty itself prematurely.
This model is one of the first without a row of holes in the detergent dispenser. The older models had holes on the left and right side of the handle. The backside of the flap (the inside of the dispenser) was slanted a little towards the outside. They were meant for the steam to escape. I guess the Miele designers found it not necessary. I remember though the steam coming from the machine when my mother (or I) would do a boil wash.
IIRC the doorseals were a bit harder to begin with. More than the newer models. After 21 years of use my mother's machine was replaced, the original seal was still on it.
I hope you can get the dryer to work again. It was an expensive matching set when it was new.
Bringing up great memories!
Louis
Doorseals
Hi Louis,
My 2515 doesnt have a door seal there. The boot just presses up against the glass. The older boot seems a better design, although harder to clean, but the water just seems to run straight back into the tub. It retains even less water than my new machine does.
The old one seems to have a rubber liner between the glass and the door frame, that is the component thats hard. I didnt want to push my luck and find out if it was brittle too
I figure the issue with the dryer is one of two things.
1) If the machine has a pressure switch that controls water level, via inlet and pump, the pressure switch has failed.
2) If there is no pressure switch, the pump simply has failed.
Due to the amount of sand in the cabinet/filters/drum. I'm guessing there could be a fair bit of sand in the condensor system. Its a tiny pump, about the size of peach, so it could just be blocked. Otherwise the dryer seems fine. Unlike most reversing dryers I've seen, the heater and blower fan run, when the machine pauses to reverse. The joy of having 3 motors I guess.
The other door seal around the edge of the door on the dryer is brittle and crumbling (And full of sand) the inner one around the filter is just loose and hard. These machines dont have a lot of access for service. I so far havent figured out how to get the top off the dryer, there are two fragile plastic clips, as the parts are NLA for the lid, I'm not game enough to force it. It does appear that the back will unscrew, but until I can see what I'm disconnecting, I'll leave it on.
From underneath, the dryer is a complex maze of tubing and ducting.
Its bizzare getting used to an appliance that you can infinitely control. After only having a new FL machine, the most unnerving thing, is when the timer clicks over an increment there is an inital loud roar for 2-3 secs as the spin motor gets up speed and then its gone from a tumble to 900RPM spin in about 5 seconds and sounds pretty much like any FL machine, but perhaps slightly louder. So far with 5 loads, I havent managed to get it OOB, it came close an a really full load, but ones the speed got up there, it was fine.
Thanks for your interest Louis, I appreciate it.
Hi Louis,
My 2515 doesnt have a door seal there. The boot just presses up against the glass. The older boot seems a better design, although harder to clean, but the water just seems to run straight back into the tub. It retains even less water than my new machine does.
The old one seems to have a rubber liner between the glass and the door frame, that is the component thats hard. I didnt want to push my luck and find out if it was brittle too
I figure the issue with the dryer is one of two things.
1) If the machine has a pressure switch that controls water level, via inlet and pump, the pressure switch has failed.
2) If there is no pressure switch, the pump simply has failed.
Due to the amount of sand in the cabinet/filters/drum. I'm guessing there could be a fair bit of sand in the condensor system. Its a tiny pump, about the size of peach, so it could just be blocked. Otherwise the dryer seems fine. Unlike most reversing dryers I've seen, the heater and blower fan run, when the machine pauses to reverse. The joy of having 3 motors I guess.
The other door seal around the edge of the door on the dryer is brittle and crumbling (And full of sand) the inner one around the filter is just loose and hard. These machines dont have a lot of access for service. I so far havent figured out how to get the top off the dryer, there are two fragile plastic clips, as the parts are NLA for the lid, I'm not game enough to force it. It does appear that the back will unscrew, but until I can see what I'm disconnecting, I'll leave it on.
From underneath, the dryer is a complex maze of tubing and ducting.
Its bizzare getting used to an appliance that you can infinitely control. After only having a new FL machine, the most unnerving thing, is when the timer clicks over an increment there is an inital loud roar for 2-3 secs as the spin motor gets up speed and then its gone from a tumble to 900RPM spin in about 5 seconds and sounds pretty much like any FL machine, but perhaps slightly louder. So far with 5 loads, I havent managed to get it OOB, it came close an a really full load, but ones the speed got up there, it was fine.
Thanks for your interest Louis, I appreciate it.
Nathan, the pleasure is mine. I love looking at and talking about these machines.
Now I know what seal/liner you mean. I think that is supposed to be that stiff. I wouldn't worry about that, I don't think I ever heard of a Miele having problems with it.
BTW, IIRC the lower spinspeed is 800rpm. On my mother's W423 (that didn't have the Economy and the Graduated Spin buttons) the graduated spin was standard. There was a rinse hold on all the other cycles and you turned it manually to spin. On all the cycles except Whites and Coloureds a short three minute spin followed then. The manual said you could turn the machine off after one minute. I wonder if yours has a different spin cycle on the other cycles. If you press the Graduated Spin button I assume the Rinse Hold is skipped?
I'm sorry I can't help you any further with the dryer. These water condenser dryers were very rare here. Water was always expensive here, so people didn't want to buy a machine like that. In the brochure it said that you could use the water for a bath, but that meant you had to install it next to a tub.
The older Mieles were far from quiet. I still remember all the sounds. Quiet wasn't important. Quality was however. It's great to see this machine still work. It's about 30 years now.
Now I know what seal/liner you mean. I think that is supposed to be that stiff. I wouldn't worry about that, I don't think I ever heard of a Miele having problems with it.
BTW, IIRC the lower spinspeed is 800rpm. On my mother's W423 (that didn't have the Economy and the Graduated Spin buttons) the graduated spin was standard. There was a rinse hold on all the other cycles and you turned it manually to spin. On all the cycles except Whites and Coloureds a short three minute spin followed then. The manual said you could turn the machine off after one minute. I wonder if yours has a different spin cycle on the other cycles. If you press the Graduated Spin button I assume the Rinse Hold is skipped?
I'm sorry I can't help you any further with the dryer. These water condenser dryers were very rare here. Water was always expensive here, so people didn't want to buy a machine like that. In the brochure it said that you could use the water for a bath, but that meant you had to install it next to a tub.
The older Mieles were far from quiet. I still remember all the sounds. Quiet wasn't important. Quality was however. It's great to see this machine still work. It's about 30 years now.
Nathan, thanks for the cycle observations. While the control panel looks different than the controls on the late W1065, the three dials offered similar settings and the cycling was much the same except mine only gave 4 rinses with a pulse spin between the 2nd and 3rd and then a decent spin between 3rd and 4th rinse. Then it went through the graduated spins with three short spin bursts to spin the bulk of the water out of the load with a tumble in between. It was almost like the 29 inch Kenmore combo in this aspect. Then it went into the high spin. My machine gave the choice of 900 or 1100 rpm spins. I think what your button calls economy was labeled "1/2" on mine. In the 1980s, I would find Miele ads in European magazines and Maria, a friend at work who knew many languages, would translate them with me. Miele made a big production in advertising that even with the 1/2 or economy option the load was washed just as long as a full load because it heated at half the rate or something. I liked the continuously variable temperature settings. I could always tell hot hot the water was by turning the temperature dial toward a lower setting and listening for the click when the heat shut off. When I washed small loads, I would select 1/2 for the wash and then reset it when it came time for the cottons rinses so that they filled up on the glass.
While I miss the flexibility of the controls on the W1065, (the 965 had a black on black control panel with white markings and the 1065, like mine, was all white except for the orange-yellow door release button) my W1918 and W1986 handle the draining/spinning much better. They do not have the water racing around between the inner and outer tubs when they start spinning. They rinse as well or better and spin faster.
Hey, what's that stuff that looks like guacamole in the softener dispenser?
Your description of the condenser dryer operation is the first time I have heard of what a water condenser dryer should do, and that is wait until the load reached a steaming temperature before starting the condenser water. Do you or Louis know of a measurement of how much water per minute was used in the condensing process? The only two water condensing dryers produced here (not counting the washer-dryer combinations), the Hotpoint and the Maytag, used between 1/2 and 1/3 gallon per minute and the water came on as soon as you started drying. I believe that there was even a safety pressure switch which would not allow the dryer to operate if there was not water pressure at the valve. When you get into the condenser, you will have to show us how it worked. The most efficient ones made here shot the water through so fine a nozzle that it atomized when it hit the fan where it mixed with the steam to condense it. The water has to be relatively cold for the process to work efficiently. Saying that the condensate water could be used for another purpose is very wise. My BIG Bendix Duomatic used to be on the same wall as one or more of my top loading washers, generally a Frigidaire. I would drain the condensate water into the tub of the top loader and have a nice tub of warm water for the next load. It used about a half gallon an hour and most loads were dry in 45 minutes, but I only saved the water once it started coming out of the drain hose good and warm. Even if you do not use the condensate water inside, perhaps you would be able to collect it in a container and use it to water plants outside.
Does your dryer have the 4 or 5 automatic dry settings? I remember that Maria translated them for me. The dampest was for machine ironing. The next 2 were for hand ironing. Then there was, I think, regular dry and then there was shelf dry, a setting that made sure the load was dry enough to fold and put away. Louis probably knows these settings.
Have fun and keep us posted on what you discover about these machines.
While I miss the flexibility of the controls on the W1065, (the 965 had a black on black control panel with white markings and the 1065, like mine, was all white except for the orange-yellow door release button) my W1918 and W1986 handle the draining/spinning much better. They do not have the water racing around between the inner and outer tubs when they start spinning. They rinse as well or better and spin faster.
Hey, what's that stuff that looks like guacamole in the softener dispenser?
Your description of the condenser dryer operation is the first time I have heard of what a water condenser dryer should do, and that is wait until the load reached a steaming temperature before starting the condenser water. Do you or Louis know of a measurement of how much water per minute was used in the condensing process? The only two water condensing dryers produced here (not counting the washer-dryer combinations), the Hotpoint and the Maytag, used between 1/2 and 1/3 gallon per minute and the water came on as soon as you started drying. I believe that there was even a safety pressure switch which would not allow the dryer to operate if there was not water pressure at the valve. When you get into the condenser, you will have to show us how it worked. The most efficient ones made here shot the water through so fine a nozzle that it atomized when it hit the fan where it mixed with the steam to condense it. The water has to be relatively cold for the process to work efficiently. Saying that the condensate water could be used for another purpose is very wise. My BIG Bendix Duomatic used to be on the same wall as one or more of my top loading washers, generally a Frigidaire. I would drain the condensate water into the tub of the top loader and have a nice tub of warm water for the next load. It used about a half gallon an hour and most loads were dry in 45 minutes, but I only saved the water once it started coming out of the drain hose good and warm. Even if you do not use the condensate water inside, perhaps you would be able to collect it in a container and use it to water plants outside.
Does your dryer have the 4 or 5 automatic dry settings? I remember that Maria translated them for me. The dampest was for machine ironing. The next 2 were for hand ironing. Then there was, I think, regular dry and then there was shelf dry, a setting that made sure the load was dry enough to fold and put away. Louis probably knows these settings.
Have fun and keep us posted on what you discover about these machines.
I don't know much about that dryer. I just got a brochure out from 1981, a bit newer than the washer, but still from the same series. Miele still had the water condenser dryers back then. As a matter of fact it appears that they use much less water than Nathan assumes. According to the brochure it's 18 (approx. 4.5 gallons) litres for a full load.
That the dryer starts the condensation process after the warming up phase makes sense. The Miele air condenser dryers do that also in contrary to most other brands.
The dryer must have five settings. I think I see symbols instead of text on the control panel of the dryer, is that correct? I don't know what the settings would be in English, I only know them in Dutch. But they could indeed be Extra dry, Shelf dry, Almost dry, Hand Iron dry and Machine Iron dry. The sixth symbol is for the Cool Down.
I guess Miele used different model numbers already for your machine Tom. I think the machine you had was a W760 here, a model that wasn't sold in the Netherlands, but was in Germany. The series that was introduced in 1982 was the first to have a spinspeed button. You could choose between 900 and 1100 or 1200, at least on the more expensive models. The BOL model still had a max. 900.
The older series like the machine in this thread never had a spinspeed selector. The spinspeed was determined by the cycle you chose. As a matter of fact there is something special about the W423. This model number was used very often, there are many models with that same model number. I don't know why Miele used that number so often. My mother's older Miele was a W423 (I added a picture of this model). When Miele made a few changes there was still a W423 and they used it until the introduction of the W700 series. The W423 has been made with 1000, 1100 and 1200 rpm. With the three dials (and later with two or three extra buttons) they were very versatile machines.
The brochure doesn't explain what the 1/2 button does. Can it be that it skips a rinse?
It looks like there was some kind of progression in the development of the spins between rinses. My Miele also does four rinses, but has the spin burst after the main wash. It spins after every rinse.
That the dryer starts the condensation process after the warming up phase makes sense. The Miele air condenser dryers do that also in contrary to most other brands.
The dryer must have five settings. I think I see symbols instead of text on the control panel of the dryer, is that correct? I don't know what the settings would be in English, I only know them in Dutch. But they could indeed be Extra dry, Shelf dry, Almost dry, Hand Iron dry and Machine Iron dry. The sixth symbol is for the Cool Down.
I guess Miele used different model numbers already for your machine Tom. I think the machine you had was a W760 here, a model that wasn't sold in the Netherlands, but was in Germany. The series that was introduced in 1982 was the first to have a spinspeed button. You could choose between 900 and 1100 or 1200, at least on the more expensive models. The BOL model still had a max. 900.
The older series like the machine in this thread never had a spinspeed selector. The spinspeed was determined by the cycle you chose. As a matter of fact there is something special about the W423. This model number was used very often, there are many models with that same model number. I don't know why Miele used that number so often. My mother's older Miele was a W423 (I added a picture of this model). When Miele made a few changes there was still a W423 and they used it until the introduction of the W700 series. The W423 has been made with 1000, 1100 and 1200 rpm. With the three dials (and later with two or three extra buttons) they were very versatile machines.
The brochure doesn't explain what the 1/2 button does. Can it be that it skips a rinse?
It looks like there was some kind of progression in the development of the spins between rinses. My Miele also does four rinses, but has the spin burst after the main wash. It spins after every rinse.
Guacamole is Fabric Softener
Hi Tom,
That goo is fabric softener. I've tried a new version of Fluffy called spring fresh, and it just seems to go goopy as soon as you pour it out of the bottle. It smells strong though, everything that came out of the Miele is quite fragranced. Initially I liked it, but now I think the novelty has worn off. Anything I wash in the new machine, never has any fragrance at all. The dispenser holds about a capfull, but by the time you remove the clothes, there is no scent left.
The dryer has the following automatic dry settings:
Extra Dry
Ready to Put Away
Non Iron
Hand Iron
Machine Iron
Plus 40 mins of timed dry. Non Iron is Europe speak for Permanant Press.
I'm assuming that the dryer is operating correctly in how it does. It seems to wait until it gets hot before the inlet opens. Next time I'm up there, I'll start opening it up and see how it works. The machines seem to be built to keep non Miele technicians out
According to the product specs, the machine for an 80min cycle uses 80L of water. So thats 1L/min or I think 1/4Gal/Min
So far they're both hooked up in the garage, and I'm draining them out onto the grass.
When graduated spin is off, it actuates the spin motor three times as the timer skips past those increments.
Then it goes and tumbles again, before jumping into high mode
Hi Tom,
That goo is fabric softener. I've tried a new version of Fluffy called spring fresh, and it just seems to go goopy as soon as you pour it out of the bottle. It smells strong though, everything that came out of the Miele is quite fragranced. Initially I liked it, but now I think the novelty has worn off. Anything I wash in the new machine, never has any fragrance at all. The dispenser holds about a capfull, but by the time you remove the clothes, there is no scent left.
The dryer has the following automatic dry settings:
Extra Dry
Ready to Put Away
Non Iron
Hand Iron
Machine Iron
Plus 40 mins of timed dry. Non Iron is Europe speak for Permanant Press.
I'm assuming that the dryer is operating correctly in how it does. It seems to wait until it gets hot before the inlet opens. Next time I'm up there, I'll start opening it up and see how it works. The machines seem to be built to keep non Miele technicians out
According to the product specs, the machine for an 80min cycle uses 80L of water. So thats 1L/min or I think 1/4Gal/Min
So far they're both hooked up in the garage, and I'm draining them out onto the grass.
When graduated spin is off, it actuates the spin motor three times as the timer skips past those increments.
Then it goes and tumbles again, before jumping into high mode
fredriksam
Well-known member
The dryer
Hi. Nice catch you got there. About 12 years ago i was in another city and studied. In the washrooms they had such washing machines and dryers. Of course i,m not really sure if it was the W 423 model but i belive so. They always worked, never any problems even if they was abused by some of the other students.
The top lid of the dryer can be difficult to remove. You must use an regular flat "screw". Under the middle of the lid there is a "switch". The washer had an similar one. You press on the switch and then it clicks or snap and then you can remove the lid. About the problem: It is sure the drain pump that is in bad shape of all the sand.
BEWARE: IMPORTANT: Always turn of the power before fix an Miele machine, atleast the older ones. A friend tried to repair one that was connected and got a nasty "surprise".
One other thing also: if there is a electrical fault in these machines the sparks can really fly, Litterary. Just a little info .
Hi. Nice catch you got there. About 12 years ago i was in another city and studied. In the washrooms they had such washing machines and dryers. Of course i,m not really sure if it was the W 423 model but i belive so. They always worked, never any problems even if they was abused by some of the other students.
The top lid of the dryer can be difficult to remove. You must use an regular flat "screw". Under the middle of the lid there is a "switch". The washer had an similar one. You press on the switch and then it clicks or snap and then you can remove the lid. About the problem: It is sure the drain pump that is in bad shape of all the sand.
BEWARE: IMPORTANT: Always turn of the power before fix an Miele machine, atleast the older ones. A friend tried to repair one that was connected and got a nasty "surprise".
One other thing also: if there is a electrical fault in these machines the sparks can really fly, Litterary. Just a little info .
hooverac216
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2005
- Messages
- 89
nice
Older Miele units with mechanical timers had a pre-wash cycle built into most all cycles except delicates/woolens. Using the half load button would cause the washer to skip the pre-wash and go straight to the main wash cycle. Half load button was also used for a "quick wash" in Cottons, and Permanent Press cycles in that is used less water and again skipped the pre-wash.
The half load button also caused the unit to use less water and there for was also pushed when using the starching cycle so there would be less water/dilution of the starch.
Miele used the half load button on American models up until the W1070 or so. Once the W1918 and other computer/electronic models were introduced the half load button was taken away. With the additon of a "brain" the washer sensed load size and adjusted water accordingly. Programming took care of most of the other funcions including "quick wash". Interestingly Miele added a "water plus" button to these models so one could use more water.
Early sales materials for the Miele w1918 models took pains to compare their units with Asko's. Miele bragged their electronic/computer units did not have a "half load" button, like Asko's, because the unit automatically sensed proper water requirements.
Spin speeds,
Yes, early Miele models sold in the United States had spin speeds set by cycle. However one the w1070 and other models, one could slow the spin down for cottons and PP cycles, by pressing a button. No change could be made for Woolens and Delicates however.
Interesting thing about early Miele units sold in the states, on the PP cycle the unit stopped after final rinse without spinning. One had to either "program" (by pushing the proper buttons before starting the cycle), or come back later and do the same to complete the final spin.
One great fun thing about mechanical timer Miele washers, is the endless amount of user modificatins one could make. Say one wanted a shorter spin cycle. No problem, simply manually advance the timer. Miele sold quite a few of these units, and apparently they are still happily washing away in homes all over the US some 15 or so years after the last ones were produced.
Launderess
The half load button also caused the unit to use less water and there for was also pushed when using the starching cycle so there would be less water/dilution of the starch.
Miele used the half load button on American models up until the W1070 or so. Once the W1918 and other computer/electronic models were introduced the half load button was taken away. With the additon of a "brain" the washer sensed load size and adjusted water accordingly. Programming took care of most of the other funcions including "quick wash". Interestingly Miele added a "water plus" button to these models so one could use more water.
Early sales materials for the Miele w1918 models took pains to compare their units with Asko's. Miele bragged their electronic/computer units did not have a "half load" button, like Asko's, because the unit automatically sensed proper water requirements.
Spin speeds,
Yes, early Miele models sold in the United States had spin speeds set by cycle. However one the w1070 and other models, one could slow the spin down for cottons and PP cycles, by pressing a button. No change could be made for Woolens and Delicates however.
Interesting thing about early Miele units sold in the states, on the PP cycle the unit stopped after final rinse without spinning. One had to either "program" (by pushing the proper buttons before starting the cycle), or come back later and do the same to complete the final spin.
One great fun thing about mechanical timer Miele washers, is the endless amount of user modificatins one could make. Say one wanted a shorter spin cycle. No problem, simply manually advance the timer. Miele sold quite a few of these units, and apparently they are still happily washing away in homes all over the US some 15 or so years after the last ones were produced.
Launderess
Great find, i'm SO happy for you.
FABULOUS~
There is enough reading here for two weeks. LOL
ONE really silly question. What do the black label-maker tapes/strips on each machine say?
I MAY be convinced (eventually) to learn to like Euro machines, but those control panels are SO different than the simplicity of ours!
FABULOUS~
There is enough reading here for two weeks. LOL
ONE really silly question. What do the black label-maker tapes/strips on each machine say?
I MAY be convinced (eventually) to learn to like Euro machines, but those control panels are SO different than the simplicity of ours!
The prewash on this machine is user selectable. If you dont want it, you just start the wash, past the prewash increments.
The Timer is amazing, its entirely flexible and it has logic even though its only mechanical (IE if it doesnt get up to spin speed, its stops the spin and increments into the next rinse. But it will try twice before it gives up) If it fails however, I'm looking at about a $350AUD replacement.
The labels on the Dryer, say "Clean filter after each use" and "Set time to 20 minutes, if clothes are still wet, set timer for another 20 minutes" On the washer it says, "Only Use Omomatic" under that it was labeled to show what detergent goes where. IE
Prewash - Fabric Softener - Main Wash
The control panel isnt complcated. Not really, all the labels etc just make it look that way. Its a bit like the colour coding on the whirlpool TL machines, you're supposed to match up the numbers.
You choose a cycle type, select the load size, wash temp, and then turn the dial to start. Then off it goes.
We have a new video camera at work. Once the novelty wears off, I'll see if I can borrow it for some action shots.
The Timer is amazing, its entirely flexible and it has logic even though its only mechanical (IE if it doesnt get up to spin speed, its stops the spin and increments into the next rinse. But it will try twice before it gives up) If it fails however, I'm looking at about a $350AUD replacement.
The labels on the Dryer, say "Clean filter after each use" and "Set time to 20 minutes, if clothes are still wet, set timer for another 20 minutes" On the washer it says, "Only Use Omomatic" under that it was labeled to show what detergent goes where. IE
Prewash - Fabric Softener - Main Wash
The control panel isnt complcated. Not really, all the labels etc just make it look that way. Its a bit like the colour coding on the whirlpool TL machines, you're supposed to match up the numbers.
You choose a cycle type, select the load size, wash temp, and then turn the dial to start. Then off it goes.
We have a new video camera at work. Once the novelty wears off, I'll see if I can borrow it for some action shots.
nokia2010
Active member
But why did the "Miele" switched from the classic handle to that button for door opening?
Doorhandle vs electronic dooropener
I assume you mean this difference? The 421 had a door handle and the 421S, the later model, had a door opener with a button on the control panel. This change was done I presume for convenience. European machines got all kind of safety features to insure the safety of children that would try to get the machine open. This was easier to realise with a door button and electronic opener than with a door handle with an extra safetylock on it.
I assume you mean this difference? The 421 had a door handle and the 421S, the later model, had a door opener with a button on the control panel. This change was done I presume for convenience. European machines got all kind of safety features to insure the safety of children that would try to get the machine open. This was easier to realise with a door button and electronic opener than with a door handle with an extra safetylock on it.
nokia2010
Active member
Yes, I mean that difference. Later models had the door opening button on the front, so a kid could acces it if he/she wanted.
From my pont of view, I preffer the handle. Could open it if the electricity failed.
I see that the W423 had a pump function. When you selected pump, it took away all the water or you could let just part of the water go by switching off pump after you did considered the machine pumped enough water.
From my pont of view, I preffer the handle. Could open it if the electricity failed.
I see that the W423 had a pump function. When you selected pump, it took away all the water or you could let just part of the water go by switching off pump after you did considered the machine pumped enough water.
Yes, a kid could press that button, but when there was enough water in the machine, the door wouldn't open. It's a protection for little children. In the past there were several cases of little children getting scalded by hot water when they opened the door, so safety regulations were introduced.
The W423 had an extra hidden safety latch behind the front (behind the pump door, a bit on the side). So if the electricity got cut off, you could still open the door.
The W423 had an extra hidden safety latch behind the front (behind the pump door, a bit on the side). So if the electricity got cut off, you could still open the door.
nokia2010
Active member
I know that hatch. But it was also avaible on other older models?
Maybe I'm wrong, but there where still some machines that let you openede the door even if it was water inside.
Thank you for posting the panel of the 'W433'. Since the functions are written in English on your machine, I can underesteand what they do. Seems like a pretty versatile machine.
Maybe I'm wrong, but there where still some machines that let you openede the door even if it was water inside.
Thank you for posting the panel of the 'W433'. Since the functions are written in English on your machine, I can underesteand what they do. Seems like a pretty versatile machine.
No, the machines with a mechanical door opener (handle) didn't have the extra latch behind the pump door because they didn't need electricity to open the door. The older ones didn't have the same safety system. In the 1970's more and more machines got safety systems that prevented from opening the door when the machine was working. They didn't have the modern technology that lets you open the door of a washing machine on lower temperatures. Besides that, water levels were generally higher, so water would stream out the door when you opened it. My mother's 1965 Bosch frontloader could be opened during the programme, even when it was spinning. It would just stop what it was doing. If you did a boil wash, you could easily get hot water over you. The 1975 Miele W423 she got then, couldn't be opened when it was working.
nokia2010
Active member
When I mentioned the latch I was talking about the ones made after they've QUYTED THE DOOR HANDLE
So 421S had a latch?
So 421S had a latch?
