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brettsomers

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I am considering getting a Danby-style portable washer (with agitator) for my apartment. does anyone here have experience with this type? how do they compare with the Haier brand? and "pulsator" wash action? thanks
 
The Danby front loading machine has a good reputation for quality and reliability. It also has a built-in water heater too. Great machine at a good price for a FL. Whirlpool also makes a compact TL washer. I have one of these as well. I've had it for about 10 years, and it has served me very well. The portable kit contains casters, and a faucet connection so that you can connect it up to an ordinary kitchen sink. The Haier TL compact machine I know of is built similar to the Whirlpool, but I don't know if it has quite the build quality of any of these. Epinions has some scathing reviews of the Haier machines, and their customer service if you do need them is beyond terrible. Haier is a Chinese company, but they have a plant in South Carolina, just east of Columbia
 
There are three Danby washers.

The one you see rave reviews about is the front-loader, DWM-500. It appears to be fairly small but apparently will handle large items well. I would guess it can handle somewhere 6# to 8# per load. It has a unique option for a 200 degree sanitize cycle: this is the washer you want to have if avian flu goes human/human contagious or if any other nasty bugs are going around. The other cycles cover the usual wide range of options of water temps and agitation speeds and so on. It has a high spin speed so you need less dryer time. Construction quality is rated exceptionally high. Performance (cleaning ability) is rated exceptionally high. Everyone who has one of these loves it. And the price is amazingly low compared to other front-loaders of equivalent quality; expect to pay between $450 and $600 for this one.

The other two, you don't see as much news about but they're still good machines.

One is the twin-tub, DTT-420. I've got this machine and it's excellent. Cleans as well as any top-loader I've used. Fast, efficient (low water & electricity consumption), reasonably quiet unless you load the spinner off balance. The gentle cycle is sufficient for almost anything; the "normal" cycle should be rated "vigorous" and is useful for loads of small items such as underwear & white socks. Has a conventional agitator operated similarly to a "pulsator," i.e. rotate, pause, reverse, pause, etc. The high-speed spinner (1400-1600 rpm) gets clothes dry enough to cut your tumble-dryer usage by half: big electricity savings there. Construction is a bit light but with care it should last as long as any other washer. The tradeoff with twin tub washers is that they're manually operated: you control the water levels from the sink faucet, transfer the clothes from wash tub to spin tub, and turn the knobs to set the times for each cycle (good oldfashioned clockwork timers), and you get your hands wet along the way:-). There's a learning curve but then you can zip through loads in half an hour each. Load capacity is rated at 10# but realistically is 6# for mixed loads and maybe 8# for loads consisting of small items (underwear & t-shirts & socks). Spinner capacity is 4-1/2 # so you have to split the loads in the spinner but this is the case with all spin dryers. Price range is $250 - $350 depending on where you buy. This is probably the most efficient washer you can get at that price. Also the machine to get if you're off-grid and use solar or wind power.

The other is the compact automatic top-loader, DWM-99-W. Somewhat more compact than the twin tub because it doesn't have a separate spin dryer. Load size is slightly less than the twin tub because it has the standard concentric washtub design. Has a standard agitator, I don't know if it uses the "pulsator" type agitation or if the motion is continuous. Has basically two cycles, one of which is longer and has an extra rinse. Has a normal/gentle action selector, and a water level control, and, I think, a temperature control (hot/warm/cold washes). It would seem that the cycle times on this one are pretty quick also, as with most top loaders. Construction details are similar to the twin tub, i.e. a bit light but well-designed and should last if taken care of. People who have these are happy with them. If you're not sure what to buy but you want something that's familiar, this one's a safe bet. Prices are about $300 plus or minus a bit, depending on where you buy.

In general, Danby machines get good reviews; quality and performance are good, customer service is responsive, presumably that means parts are obtainable easily enough if needed.

In fairness to Haier, I suspect that some of the bad reviews on Haier machines are people who don't know how to use compact washers properly, i.e. who overload them and don't pay attention to what they're doing. It seems that Haier has also improved quality over the last couple of years. Also it's possible that some dealers were offering bottom-of-the-line models that use "gravity drain," which is common in places where you discharge the washer water into a floor drain (as with the old wringer washers), whereas people expect pumped draining so you can discharge used water into the kitchen or laundry room sink. The mid- to high- range Haiers of course have pumped draining. Prices are comparable to Danby. Haier also make a twin tub (larger capacity than the Danby but hard to find) and a front-loader.

Last but not least, compact washers of whatever kind aren't designed to do large items such as blankets for a large bed; those will still need to go to the laundromat and be washed in a large front-loader. But they will handle all your regular clothes, bed sheets, bathroom towels, and so on quite well, and pay for themselves in a year or at most two years with money saved on the laundromat. And of course you save time because you can do other things at home while the laundry is going.

There are other bits & pieces around this site about compact washers if you need more information. Let us know what you decide to buy and how it works for you; and if you need more advice either about buying or using a compact machine, feel free to ask.
 
geek

thanks for your input. i was considering the danby compact top loader. i live in a NY-style apartment in san antonio and am tired of having to smell the apartment washers before i use them. i need something that can hook to the kitchen sink and with casters preferably. price is also a major consideration for me. i like the whirlpool compact top loader but it costs almost twice the amount the danby does. i would consider the danby FRONT loader since you can do so much more with that style. any other portable front loaders out there under 500 dollars? thanks again
 
If you have 24 inches and can put the machine near the sink, something to consider might be a T/L BOL WP or KM.

One water level
One cycle
One wash/rinse temp: warm/cold

If you will be connecting it to a sink/faucet, then one temp makes no diff.

Locking casters(*wheels*) may even be an option.

Adding these to a BOL may still be much less expesnive than a compact portable.

Plus side: a full-sized load in a compact cabinet.
 
Look for a scratch n dent warehouse near your area too. Sears has these outlets all over the country, and appliances can be had for 25-50 percent off the store prices. Other appliance shops have them too. You may get lucky and find a good deal on the right machine by hitting one of these shops every few days or so to look for "fresh meat" I got the Whirlpool compact washer at one of these. I only paid $200 for it, but it was originally a $400 machine! It had a dent in the rear corner just below the water inlet valve.
 
I have to differ with Toggleswitch about that. One water level, one cycle, one set of temperature settings: may work well if all your loads are the same. But will end up costing you more in the long run for using more hot water when you could have used cold, or more water for small loads that could have used less. At least go one step higher and get a "high/low" water level, "warm/cold" wash, and "normal/gentle" agitation setting.

Re. mounting on casters, ask around here first. Some models yes, some no, and in this case "no" means, you really don't want the washer scooting around the kitchen floor if the load is unbalanced during spin.
 
I'm with Steve, go for a 24" full-sized BOL Whirlpool, Roper, or Kenmore. These will have a larger capacity than a compact but will just as easily accept the Whirlpool faucet connector so you can fill and drain right from the sink, and last time I checked, optional casters were available! And since you're using just the "Cold" solenoid of the water valve, you can infinitely adjust the water temperature from the faucet. Some are available with 2 water levels as well if you just want to wash a half-load.

Based on what I've seen when you're using only one side of a water valve, it's also a good idea to cap off the other side to prevent any leaking or dripping (doesn't happen on all machines, but just to be safe...). One of those black threaded caps for garden equipment works fine.

Here's one with adjustable water level and a temperature control that you can set for "Cold/Cold" for faucet use. I just now remembered that some lower-end models have the temperature selection in the timer, which could be inconvienent to mess around with.

--Austin

 
Looks like the debate is starting to condense around a) smaller versions of standard units made by well-established manufacturers, and b) compacts made by less well-known manufacturers.

Bpetersxx, yeah, go ahead and post your pictures and videos (the latter hopefully in Quicktime format).
 
BTW-

There are also "Y" hoses and rigid "pipe-like" connectors that feed both sides (hot/cold) of the solenoid from ONE fill hose, to do the snap-coupler at the faucet routine.

When I am in a rental apt for a few years in the near future I was thinking of getting a 24 inch wide (60cm) T/L-er while I still can.

No point in taking my Frigidaire F/L-er with me, these 9 or equivalent)will be plentiful here in the US in the future.

[Now, any thoughts in gettin a reluglar (110/220v 30a line)electric dryer and working out a Franken-dry situation by putting a 110v heating element in it? ]
 
110/220v30a line

Hey Steve. Just thought of this, My electric hydronic baseboard heater in the family room was wired with two (2) 110 lines to make it 220 or 240. Even the old one was wired this way. As you know I am not an electrician but, can something like this be done like this? I think there is one breaker for this addition which also feeds 4 outlets in my addition (110) but they use the 2 110 wires for the heater. I do not know if I am explaing this correctly. What I am trying to say is use 2 110 lines. I may be all wrong, but I tried.

Ray
 
Dont ask, don't tell..

yup..

a 220 volt line (with our system, on this continent)is basically two 110 volt lines.

(They are two different hot-legs, however. If from the same hot-leg the voltage will be ZERO, rather than 220v.)

They can share one ground wire safely. Won't get more techincal here; but each hot leag is basically a different *phase* (purposely out-of-synch with the other).
 
This explains it better, but still a little confused.
So...could you use 2 110 lines to run the electric dryer? Or, you woun't be able to do because of the two diferent hot legs?
 
In theory yes.

But they would have to be fed from the panel box(conusmer-unit => uk) in a certaian way..

Specifically.. meaning one from the black (incoming)wire, and one from the red. Can't take both from the same *hot-leg* (color).

Also an American clothes dryer neeads heavier(thicker) wire to handle the required 30 amp draw; most househodd wiring is not of that grade/capacity.
 
yes I WAS an electrician briefly, actually.

Ray:
Sounds like a three-wire cable was split to use 220 volts for the heater, then ONE side of the ciruit(one hot [color] + the neutral [white]) to get 110v for your outlets.

This is not dangerous even though there MAY be a more preferred wiring method.

My advice? Don't fret, at all.

PERFECTY SAFE, IMHO.
 

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