MOVING A MAYTAG E2L

[stan]

hi Larry

It's really not complicated at all

but to tell you the truth I would avoid going there unless you have to! Think of it like "your the Doctor and it's the patient" First do no harm LOL

For what it's worth...
It just dose'nt make sense to me that you have to "assume" that water has gotten into the PU without hard evidence!
Since the motor works and there is still a belt turning the agitator, why not run the machine, (motor and belt) for an hour or so.
(cant hold water now anyway) and see if anything leaks out of the weep hole, and listen to how the gears sound. If it sounds O.K and there is no seepage, then lets "assume" that water has NOT gotten into it!
If your prepared to do a tare down now, then you'll be prepared later. Do you see my point?

If it were me, I'd go ahead and get a new agitator, your going to have to anyway if your going to restore it later!
(and keep it a washing machine)
In the mean time, patch the holes to make sure the tub holds water. Then run the machine and see! There is nothing lost at this point. If evidence shows up later, that water IS getting in, then you still have'nt lost anything, because you were ready to do a tare down in the first place.

Even if water has gotten into the PU, it still may not be necessary to "rebuild" it, more like cleaning and refilling with the correct gear oil.
(if you could see inside, you'd see what I mean. Not much to go wrong in there)

I'll try to email you a PDF file of the service manual. (if you want) If that dose not work then I'll be in touch to snail mail it to you on a disk.

I understand that having a pump on it may not bother you now, because of the floor drain you have, but you should know, if you don't already, that one can be added in the future without a lot of effort. Phil has them. I think for about $45.00

Sure wish this had gone a little easier for you, but they are fun little projects!

Let me know

Stan

 

[e2l-arry]

Phil

I've traded a couple of emails with Phil tonight. You guys are right, he's a great guy and fantastic help. He told me they used to have a patch for the bottoms of these but they're no longer available. But he did have a gulmite wrench that I bought and will be sending me CD's of the service manual when my order ships. His prices are very reasonable. Essentially when removing the PU all you're doing is checking/replacing the 90 wt. gear oil and gaskets? Or do you remove the components, gears, and whatever else is in there and soak in solvent or something? I saw a post on a google search where one guy said he soaked them in coca cola because water had rusted them! I think I might as well remove the transmission though. When moving this machine I did notice a lot of thick oil down the leg of the wringer side. Plus I think I can do a better of patching with the PU out.

The saga continues!!

 

[stan]

Oil

coming down from the leg is a different issue.
Remember these are old ladies, they often make funny noises, and have little leaks now and then! LOL No to worry too much.

 

[e2l-arry]

Service Manual

Hi Stan,
Phil is sending me a service manual on CD. But if you could email me a PDF copy in the meantime, that would get me a jump on things.

I took a wire brush to it and found some of the holes are bigger than I thought so now not sure if J-B Weld epoxy is the way to go or the HTS 2000 used for aluminum fabrication and repair. Here a picture of the biggest corrosion. The web site says it's stronger than the original aluminum. I'm thinking I need that because if I ever do remove the P U, the holes are so close to the bolt I'm afraid removing the gulmite bolts would just tear away big chunks of the tub. Then it would really only be good for a cooler, a leaky one at that.

I've been soaking the spline in cutting oil. I think tonight I'll go at it with a heat gun and see if it will loosen

 

[e2l-arry]

1st week!

Well, I've officially had the machine a week now. In that time I've had to fix the agitator on/off shaft. The first time I pulled on it the thing broke loose from the activator switch on the P.U. Then the wringer was messed up. It wouldn't lock in the up position and the tension set on the top only moved in 1 direction. So I pulled the wringer top off and disassembled, re-assembled and it's working perfectly now. I also replaced the belt with the new one that arrived yesterday. Still waiting on the new agitator and drain hose although I do know that they've shipped

The biggest accomplishment was getting that spline off! That took me 4 days! Cutting oil, a heat gun, brute force and nothing! I finally went at it with a saber saw. I was careful not to go to deep and risk ruining the shaft. So once I was almost through, I stopped and popped it apart with a screwdriver and hammer.

I think I've fixed the corroded through spots in the bottom on the tub. I sanded and prepped the area then patched with some J-B Weld. I checked this morning and it's solid! Now I'm going to top that with a coating of 3M # 800 Industrial Sealant when that arrives. It's not sold retail so that was a little tricky to get ordered but it's on it's way. Then for the water test. I think it will be fine but keep your fingers crossed!

After I replaced the belt I ran the machine for and hour and 1/2 last night with the agitator in the on position and the wringer running. Everything was fine. No oil or grease leaks so things are looking up!

Now it's back to the garage for the second coat of primer I put on the lid. I'm going to try the Rust-Oleum white appliance epoxy on it and see how it looks. If it looks good I'll do the wringer next, then the whole machine. There are just too many nicks and scratches to try and touch up. I've seen a few pictures of washers that have been painted (Stan's) and his results are quite impressive. It can be done so I'll be checking out the various techniques used.

More pictures soon!

Larry

 

[stan]

thanks Larry

i'll be interested in the final outcome!

 

[e2l-arry]

tub repairs

Here's a picture of the patched tub. I used J-B Weld to patch the 4 holes. The bottom doesn't look to pretty because I covered the weld patched with the 3M #800 Industrial Sealant. Then, since it's spreadable and I had plenty, I covered the entire bottom where there was corrosion to encapsulate it and prevent further damage. This takes up to 3 days to cure. Not likely in Colorado's dry climate but I'm giving it 3 day anyway.

 

[e2l-arry]

With drain filter

Now with the newly painted drain filter. It covers some of the patchwork and the agitator will cover it all. I thought only pump models came with the screen but mine had one?

 

[e2l-arry]

The finish

Here with the new agitator. I used Mother's Mag & Aluminum Polish on the crown. I found it at the Auto Parts store. Make it shine mike a baby's forehead!

 

[e2l-arry]

Next!

On to the wringer! The sealant will be ready Thursday and I ordered a new center plate agitator seal. If that shows up by Friday I hope to have a water test this weekend. Once I get there I'll tackle getting the tub back into shape.

 

[stan]

all looks

really good!
Is that the appliance spray paint ?

 

[qsd-dan]

Looks great, Larry!

 

It's starting to come together and won't be long before you're rewarded with some clean laundry out of those wringer rolls.

 

[e2l-arry]

Paint

Yes, that's the Rust-Oleum Appliance Epoxy White. I bought another can and it's working fine. I complained on line to the Rust-Oleum people and they're refunding my $5.00 for the first can that splattered all over. Sometimes it pays to be the squeaky wheel.

My agitator seal arrived today! The last part of the puzzle. And tomorrow's the end of the 3 day (maximum) cure time for the 3M sealer so tomorrow night will be the next water test.

It won't be long now!

Larry

 

[mickeyd]

The crown is out of sight beautiful

Thanks for the hint. You really made a silk purse out of a pig's ear. You'll be so happy washing in her. I can feel your excitement.

 

[e2l-arry]

Well, I gave it the water test and at first all appeared well. But there was a small leak. About 1 or 2 drop per minute so very minor compared to last time. I crawled under and saw the general area where the leak was. So there must be a very small leak path so I put more of my 3M #800 Sealant all around the area I suspect of leaking. Also re-sealed around all 6 bolts. It appeared from underneath to be some leak path between the tub and the P.U. So I laid the machine down, front side down of course, and was able to apply a bead of sealant all around the P.U. and the tub from the bottom as well. Now, since I have another 3 days of curing time, no washing this weekend. I went back to working on painting the wringer. When going after scrapes and scratched I always end up with bare metal so I have to prime. I primed the top yesterday and painted this afternoon. I also sanded and primed the bottom half today and that will be ready for painting tomorrow. Slow but steady but I am seeing progress! Here's a picture of the painted top 1/2 and the primer on the bottom.

Later,

Larry

http://minor leak

 

[e2l-arry]

We have lift off!

Today I had a successful wash run. Filler her with Hot water and powdered Tide and did 4 loads of wash. No leaks, no problems, everything worked exactly as it's supposed to work. Cleaned up the tub like Stan suggested with SOS pads and 2,000 grit wet sand paper. It finally came together. I painted the wringer and the top lid. Now I'll move onto the washer body!

 

[e2l-arry]

The tub

Here's the tub after some clean up and polishing.

 

[e2l-arry]

My E2l as on 09/03/12

Coming along!

 

[mickeyd]

Can't believe how beautiful she is

and how great the tub came out. What a transformation. Spectacular. Wait till Geoff D. sees this! Maytag Wringer Heaven.

 

[stan]

Release bar

looks really good too Larry!
Just noticed it in your photos here, and on the computer, instead of my phone LOL

Appliance Epoxy Spray looks good too!

Mystery paint on body to be discussed later LOL

 

[wringer]

I would

have never believed this had I not seen and read it with my own eyes. You have done a wonderful job of getting this beauty back on her castors. I use my E2LS as a daily driver and love her. In fact, I use all 3 of my girls weekly. One for washing and the other two for rinsing. ENJOY !!!!!

Jim

 

[e2l-arry]

Sanded and Primed

the washer itself, or do they call that the skirt? tonight. A coat of paint over the weekend. Wait 3 days and apply the finishing coat and I've got myself a pretty sweet Maytag EL2 conventional washer!

 

[stan]

Larry

is that the floor drain under the sink?

 

[e2l-arry]

The floor drain

is next to the water heater, Page 47, a few frames up shows it with the hose in the floor drain. It works OK but I think you're right. Once the smoke clears, I'd like to add a pump.

 

[e2l-arry]

Today,

I worked on the casters. It appears the extensions were chrome plated. But from the point of exposure down, whatever plating that was there had been worn away. So I decided to clean with steel wool, wash and de-grease, then paint with a metallic flat silver I've used on he wheels of one of my cars. So I know it will last. Here are 2 sets painted and 2 waiting to be painted.

 

[stan]

since you have the laundry sink

you might want to think about ordering a pump for it?

 

[e2l-arry]

I probably will

order a pump from Phil eventually. They sure look simple enough to install. Especially after some of the obstacles I've encountered! Wouldn't you know I jumped the gun and just bought a new drain hose for the gravity feed. If I understand correctly, I'll need an entirely different drain hose configuration for the pump model. But even if that's the case it's only something like another $20.00?? My floor drain is somewhat awkward to get to because of the lay out. So I know I'll get tired of that soon enough!

I've finished the painting last night. Looks good! (If I do say so myself)

 

[e2l-arry]

Today

09/13/12 I tried to stage it as the first picture I posted last month. Sort of a before/after thing.

 

[wringer]

WOW !!

You did a beautiful job!!! Don't forget to keep the wringer rolls separated so they won't stick together. You are entitled to be very proud of your work and all of the effort you put into her that others would not have done. Enjoy !!

Jim

 

[e2l-arry]

Thanks Jim!

I do usually keep the wringer open when not in use. This was a staged picture to pose it as the first pic i took when I got it home and the wringer was broken so it was closed. Here's another picture with it open as usual.