My custom BOL dishwasher rebuild
- Thread starter Chetlaham
- Start date
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GE's HotStart
It's a feature GE incorporated several years ago. It's basically 1 or 2 additional fills to purge the line of cold water.
Timer controls do a short initial fill and purge with a 2nd longer stage that runs for 15-20min with the heater. It's like a nice tepid pre-soak.
The higher end machines will do an auto HotStart and only purge the lines as it senses the fill temp.
The new Profile I have ALWAYS does at least one HotStart purge, even if run hot water at the faucet.
The fills on these new machines is so low (.8gal) that the first fill is almost always cold from standing water in the pipe that running the faucet has no effect on.
I figure if it's always gonna fill n dump on me, I might as well get a few minutes of spray action.
So I stopped running the faucet period.
The one drawback to HotStart is that it's basically pointless for powder or gel soap. Since the pre-wash doses get dumped almost immediately.
It's a feature GE incorporated several years ago. It's basically 1 or 2 additional fills to purge the line of cold water.
Timer controls do a short initial fill and purge with a 2nd longer stage that runs for 15-20min with the heater. It's like a nice tepid pre-soak.
The higher end machines will do an auto HotStart and only purge the lines as it senses the fill temp.
The new Profile I have ALWAYS does at least one HotStart purge, even if run hot water at the faucet.
The fills on these new machines is so low (.8gal) that the first fill is almost always cold from standing water in the pipe that running the faucet has no effect on.
I figure if it's always gonna fill n dump on me, I might as well get a few minutes of spray action.
So I stopped running the faucet period.
The one drawback to HotStart is that it's basically pointless for powder or gel soap. Since the pre-wash doses get dumped almost immediately.
Hotstart
Its just two extra pre washes. In fact the tech sheet calls it a "heated pre soak". The first wash is a few minutes the other 10 to 20 minutes with heat. After that the timer advances to the heavy wash position. IMO not worth it except for very heavily soiled dishes. As stated above its awful for pre treating with detergent because the first fill is pumped out so fast.
Thanks for the vids!
I love watching that in action. That pop up shower does a nice job with the top rack.
Its just two extra pre washes. In fact the tech sheet calls it a "heated pre soak". The first wash is a few minutes the other 10 to 20 minutes with heat. After that the timer advances to the heavy wash position. IMO not worth it except for very heavily soiled dishes. As stated above its awful for pre treating with detergent because the first fill is pumped out so fast.
Thanks for the vids!
I love watching that in action. That pop up shower does a nice job with the top rack.
Question
Does GE sell wiring harnesses separately as a repair part?
Does GE sell wiring harnesses separately as a repair part?
Update
Ok, so. The timer and cams arrived. The cams are in mint condition and the timer works, however the timer is damaged where the knob is supposed to connect. The plastic is broken off right above the point where the cam slips in. Not a major concern as I only paid $25 for what is normally a $150 timer. Will go hunting for another one in the mean time. As for the cycle sequence I was able to confirm its the exact one I am looking for so in the least if I spend $150 I know its money well well spent.
Ok, so. The timer and cams arrived. The cams are in mint condition and the timer works, however the timer is damaged where the knob is supposed to connect. The plastic is broken off right above the point where the cam slips in. Not a major concern as I only paid $25 for what is normally a $150 timer. Will go hunting for another one in the mean time. As for the cycle sequence I was able to confirm its the exact one I am looking for so in the least if I spend $150 I know its money well well spent.
Hmm - I recollect
Somebody or other here having once found a solution for broken polyethylene and other non-glue plastics. Would you mind sending a close-up of the broken off shaft, with and without cam on it?
Your work impresses me.
Somebody or other here having once found a solution for broken polyethylene and other non-glue plastics. Would you mind sending a close-up of the broken off shaft, with and without cam on it?
Your work impresses me.
Wiring harnesses
This is so simple, I don't think you need bother. I've had to make up two over the years. Just remember, ('cause I forgot the first time) that you still have to run neutral up to the control panel, even though it's linked to the water inlet solenoid, the drain solenoid, the pump motor and the heater. So - that's three wires going up (P-N-E). Down (assuming no sensors) you've got water inlet solenoid (goes to safety float), drain solenoid, pump motor, fuse block for heater/overheat-protection/heater). That makes seven in all. Which just happens to fit in nicely with the high-current flat ribbons auto-part stores sell for hooking up various things.
This is so simple, I don't think you need bother. I've had to make up two over the years. Just remember, ('cause I forgot the first time) that you still have to run neutral up to the control panel, even though it's linked to the water inlet solenoid, the drain solenoid, the pump motor and the heater. So - that's three wires going up (P-N-E). Down (assuming no sensors) you've got water inlet solenoid (goes to safety float), drain solenoid, pump motor, fuse block for heater/overheat-protection/heater). That makes seven in all. Which just happens to fit in nicely with the high-current flat ribbons auto-part stores sell for hooking up various things.
Dump the big basket
I use one of those small baskets they use for on-door silverware containers. It holds more than enough silverware, fits perfectly on one side or in the upper rack (best use for that narrow sector on the left 2800s have in the upper basket).
The big 'hole' left in the bottom accommodates a six-quart pressure cooker with sticky rice or oatmeal glued to it perfectly. Or a skillet with burnt on egg.
I use one of those small baskets they use for on-door silverware containers. It holds more than enough silverware, fits perfectly on one side or in the upper rack (best use for that narrow sector on the left 2800s have in the upper basket).
The big 'hole' left in the bottom accommodates a six-quart pressure cooker with sticky rice or oatmeal glued to it perfectly. Or a skillet with burnt on egg.
Thanks, that means a lot to me I go the extra mile in getting a no BS machine.
@timer shaft: I uploaded pics of the shaft up close. One side is broken off while the other is bent inward. It looks like the timer has been dropped or the box kicked in. My plan for now is keeping this as a spare and getting another identical timer. I found an appliance store that was able to locate a few in a parts storage facility in another state so I will probably end up ordering that one. I am lucky though, because timers for most models of this vintage have long been discontinued and used up in storage. In fact the timers in the next series up (GSD600, 640 and 940D) along with many mid 90s models are no where to be found. My best guess being because this model (GSD500 and its Hotpoint sister HDA487) were so popular in apartments, rental housing and institutions that replacement part demand lasted longer than for most other models.
@Wiring harness. My plan is to re-use the harness that comes with the new machine:
http://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-specs/GSD2100VWW
My only challenge will be removing the electrical leads and their pins from the existing timer black to a new one which fits this vintage of timer:
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/GE-Dishwasher-Terminal-Block/WD1X1432/270247?ss=a9b3c57&mr=0
Any idea if a special tool required? Or will a jewelry/eye glass screw driver release them from the connector? I uploaded the tech sheet going to the vintage timer showing what wires need to go where in the replacement timer block if curious.
@Silverware Basket: I like it to be honest. IMO its the right size, if not a tad small lol. I use a lot of silverware so something like this is a big welcome. Personally I like the new rack design as well over the old straight tins.
I go the extra mile in getting a no BS machine. @timer shaft: I uploaded pics of the shaft up close. One side is broken off while the other is bent inward. It looks like the timer has been dropped or the box kicked in. My plan for now is keeping this as a spare and getting another identical timer. I found an appliance store that was able to locate a few in a parts storage facility in another state so I will probably end up ordering that one. I am lucky though, because timers for most models of this vintage have long been discontinued and used up in storage. In fact the timers in the next series up (GSD600, 640 and 940D) along with many mid 90s models are no where to be found. My best guess being because this model (GSD500 and its Hotpoint sister HDA487) were so popular in apartments, rental housing and institutions that replacement part demand lasted longer than for most other models.
@Wiring harness. My plan is to re-use the harness that comes with the new machine:
http://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-specs/GSD2100VWW
My only challenge will be removing the electrical leads and their pins from the existing timer black to a new one which fits this vintage of timer:
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/GE-Dishwasher-Terminal-Block/WD1X1432/270247?ss=a9b3c57&mr=0
Any idea if a special tool required? Or will a jewelry/eye glass screw driver release them from the connector? I uploaded the tech sheet going to the vintage timer showing what wires need to go where in the replacement timer block if curious.
@Silverware Basket: I like it to be honest. IMO its the right size, if not a tad small lol. I use a lot of silverware so something like this is a big welcome. Personally I like the new rack design as well over the old straight tins.
I have used a jeweler's screwdriver
in the past but now-a-days, i just cut, pull, redraw, splice cleanly. Those little tabs break too easily for my taste.
That break looks icky. You're right, I doubt anything would take the torque.
in the past but now-a-days, i just cut, pull, redraw, splice cleanly. Those little tabs break too easily for my taste.
That break looks icky. You're right, I doubt anything would take the torque.
The crack goes down into the drum. It is what it is, but at least I know Im hunting for the right timer now.
I might break the tabs on the existing block, but as long as the tabs on the new block Im fine.
I might break the tabs on the existing block, but as long as the tabs on the new block Im fine.
