My new 1963 Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII set

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Sean, I really enjoyed the video. When you introduced the selected cycle, you simple said cycle #3, medium wash temp and wash for 8 minutes. My suggestion is to tell us what the cycle name is on the panel of the Whirlpool for each cycle you run. I like ou said you want to try and video each different wash cycle.
 
Reply #89: the dispensers do work well but I always put some water in the dispensers when I am not using fabric softener or bleach to keep them cleaned

Reply #90: technically the cycle is a non-colorfast cycle but I just call it cycle #3 just for simplicity
 
Transmission

Enjoyed reading this thread. Are you planning on reinstalling the original transmission after it is rebuilt? Or will you store it for future needs. Do you run the RCA’s more than the Maytags?
 
I plan on reinstalling the transmission sometime in the near future after it’s all rebuilt but I’ll keep it on hand in the meantime in case if the transmission that’s in it develops a problem. The machines I am using at the moment are my 1973 May A606 and DG306 along with my Kenmore portable belt drive washer and my ‘63 Whirlpool has been running reliably but the water level switch decided to start acting up and that machine should be up and going as soon as the new water level switch arrives for it and it should be here by the end of next week.
 
Another update, found the correct size of pulley for the transmission and now it’s working like it should :). Definitely seems to drain and spin better with the correct pulley on the transmission.

 
 
Is the spin clutch grabbing too much?  Should spin acceleration cause the strain and mechanism slow-down seen at 27:30 and 38:15?
 
It’s the one retainer clip on the clutch yoke that can be causing that and I’ve adjusted the clutch a dozen times and it’s adjusted to 2/16” rather than the 1/16” the Whirlpool repair master suggests. You’ll notice zip ties on the clutch yoke and I had to put those zip ties on to help hold down the clutch yoke so it doesn’t engage abruptly. Hopefully the issues with the clutch will be corrected once the original transmission is all rebuilt and that uses a small spring or some sort of retainer clip that holds down the clutch yoke.
 
Spin Clutch Is Grabbing Too Much, Reply # 97

Good eye Glenn, It is almost impossible to get a BD WP washer to engage and accelerate properly with the old style full face asbestos clutch lining. 

 

WP changed to the 3 pad clutches around 1968 and eliminated this problem, I never rebuild a WP BD machine without switching to this better clutch design, they just work so much better because it allows the belt [ and water pump ] to keep turning at full speed as the wash basket gets up to speed, this improvement is what kept later WP BD washers from suds-locking after the wash cycle.

 

John L.
 
Reply #100

Maybe I’ll look into getting that Coppertone Maytag A806 set sometime soon but am limited on space at the moment. I will have to sell my Maytag A810 set and will have to part out the Maytag DE306 since I took all the wiring out of it for the DG306 I got up and going again back in 2019 and it’s not in terrible shape just needs to have new wiring put in it and needs a upper door hinge since the upper hinge seems to have disappeared on me and last time I saw it was in my garage back in 2019.

Everything seems to be working as it should on that 1963 RCA Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII but one thing I had to replace recently was the water level switch and spent some time to adjust it but seems to not do a partial drain on the super wash and it does drain out some water but not a partial drain like it did with the original water level switch. I have a pressure switch in my parts stash from a old Maytag and maybe I’ll put that on but I’ll have to see if it will work or not.
 
Now here’s another issue I am having. I got a new water level switch installed and it works but it doesn’t really seem to do the partial drain on the super wash cycle and only drains about 1/4 of the water instead of 1/2 of the water.
 
Water level switches are adjustable but I put in another water level switch and it does the same thing. I am beginning to think it’s the piece I made out of pvc pipes and I might have to cut it down to see if that will correct the issue I am having with it not doing the proper partial drain on the super wash cycle.
 
 
How did you source the part?  There can be differences in the reset point from one switch to another.  I recall that some have a variable reset point that moves up/down with the selected level.  Others have a fixed reset point.  Some may have an adjustment for it, maybe some don't.
 
I figured it out. Turns out the parts I made for the water level switch that is on the side of the tub was a bit on the tall side and I cut it down little by little and now it works like it’s supposed to. Only thing left I have to do is do the screw adjustment since it doesn’t quite fill to the top but I’ll do that sometime tomorrow since it’s dark outside.
 
What do the "manual" over dial do?
Transmission: you probably purchased the transmission from the same seller I purchased mine, he had a bunch on sale for that price.
Though yours looks much better than what I got and I was told he would send the best one he had.
I also got the camshafts bented in shipping but I straightened them using a hammer.
As for oil I didn't add any to it, thought , should I have?
 
Reply #110

I definitely would have added oil to it and if you don’t add oil and use it for many years the transmission can lock up and the transmission on my Kenmore portable belt drive washer was for sure locked up when I got it and added 40 weight oil and brought it back to life (yes, 40 weight motor oil isn’t the correct oil but it’s what I had in hand at the time) and has been working fine for the 4 years I’ve owned it.

I am doing a quote “rebuild” or the original transmission that was in my 1963 RCA Whirlpool Imperial Mark XII and all I am really doing is cleaning things up, installing a new agitator shaft and agitator shaft seal and spring, putting some fresh new 50 weight motor oil in and putting it back together.
 
My old one locked up because of water damage.
Still have to open it and I know the more I wait the worse will be.
I also will have to replace the shaft but again I plan to move so... Whatever I will leave will probably just not be used so would be "wasted work".
I imagined that the transmission I got already had oil in it and I didn't see any considerable spill in the package, but thinking of it probably it's because it needs it.
I can add some through the vent perhaps. With a syringe or something the next time I open the back
How much did you add?
 
I’d adjust a little oil at a time and told put a paper clip in to measure how much oil is in the transmission. John Lefever/combo52 will know since he’s worked on hundreds of belt drive washers.
 
Okay thanks. I will ask john even though I think I bothered him enough already! haha
I seem to remember reading something about it in the past, I seem to recall it should be half full. But will ask to confirm.
And I recall 60w oil, you say 50w.
Anyway I suppose it would work just fine the same.
Probably heavier is better for transmissions that are pretty worn I guess.

Over here in Europe there are still tons of cars with manual clutch and they all use 75w gear oil so I ask if that could go well?
Something like this?

kenmoreguy89-2021050200221400923_1.jpg

kenmoreguy89-2021050200221400923_2.jpg
 

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