My New Whirlpool

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eurekastar

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 21, 2018
Messages
514
Location
Amarillo, Texas
I know its not a rare find, but I'm excited to begin work on my new acquisition! A friend gave it to me today. It's been in her garage for years after she inherited it from her Grandmother. Beyond installing a new pump on a Whirlpool direct drive, I've not done much in the way of washer repairs. But I wanted to begin with a model that has greater potential for finding parts.

It fills and agitates but it doesn't spin, so I'll need to investigate that. I plan to disassemble it at least down to removing the agitator and wash baskets in order to give it a thorough cleaning. Then, I'll see what kind of other issues that need to be addressed, including cosmetic stuff.

I'm guessing this model is circa the early to mid 1980s.

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The first thing I would check is the lid switch. If the Coupler was bad it would not agitate or spin. Those older direct drive whirlpools would allow you to open the lid when it is washing but once it is time to spin the lid switch kicks in. If the lid switch is bad it will still fill and run through the wash cycle because the lid switch is not required but as soon as it is time to spin it will not go any further because it thinks the lid is open. I have changed dozens of lid switchs with those same symptoms .
 
 
The lid switch may be the fault if the motor does not run for drain or spin.  It's not the problem if the motor does run but there's no spin.

Give us the model and serial numbers to confirm the age.  The model number is coded for the year of market introduction.  The serial number is coded for the year and week of manufacture.
 
My ex-wife and I had the exact same model (and matching dryer) we bought brand new the year we were married: 1986. I was so surprised with the direct drive vs belt-drive. I had been in the “appliance closet” (along with being in the gay closet!) for a couple years and didn’t know about the change-over to direct drive. Still a pretty good washer, nonetheless.
 
If the motor runs, and it agitates and drains but won't spin or barely spins, you most likely have a bad clutch. Inexpensive part and super easy repair (even though you do have to pull the transmission) that took me less than half an hour the first time. Definitely worth fixing.
 
I finally had a chance to put it through its paces this evening and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it! I ran it through every cycle and it operates as it should. So I don't know exactly why she thought it wouldn't spin. However, it sat in a storage building for 20 years, following her grandmother's death. But it fired right up. I can only run cold water from a garden hose.

The model number is LA5500TWO. The serial number is C91227286.

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I haven't seen any rust on the cabinet at all, even under the lid. Unfortunately, things were piled on it and the top has some deep scratches and discoloration. So I plan to remove the cabinet, sand and prime it, and then repaint it with some Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy. It should look virtually brand new after that!

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Once I get it repainted, I think I'll move it into the house and use it for a month or so. The wash basket is pretty small but with no kids at home, it will be just fine! I've never seen an agitator base quite like this one. I'm wondering if a fabric softener dispenser can be added.

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It really cleaned up nicely.  The chrome accents on the control panel just make it look so much nicer than modern all plastic machines.
 
 
<blockquote>EurekaStar:  One of the things that I really like about this washer is that it begins to spin as soon as the wash basket starts draining as well.</blockquote> It shouldn't do that.  The motor should pause for a few seconds after the wash (and rinse) agitation, then it restarts and should drain without spinning for 2 mins, the motor pauses again and restarts for spin.  Spinning immediately with water in the tub indicates the neutral drain components in the transmission are worn.  There's a low-cost repair kit (WP part number 388253) available, requires pulling and opening the transmission to swap the parts.  The non-spin situation may be erratic and related to this problem.

LA5500TW0 ... maybe LA5500XTW0?
W = 1990 model year.

C91227286
12th week of 1989.
 
HD video that shows the repair.  Doesn't look too bad, but a lot more work than just swapping the transmission.

 

So are the options are to order the neutral drain kit for $30 or just replace the transmission for $150?

 

The DD that came with my house had this problem (went right to spin without drain period) and it operated for some time that way.  (Only doing laundry for two.) I think eventually (after 3 years) it got to the point where occasionally it would stall and wouldn't spin and opening and closing the lid (or using the timer) would "restart" it and it would spin and continue the cycle.  I can't remember exactly, it's been quite a while ago.

 
@ IowaBear

Thank you! I love Youtube! It looks like a straightforward repair. I found another video that shows how to remove the transmission. Once everything is out, it makes sense to install a new motor coupler just to be safe. Although, the clutch assembly looks like a pretty solid part and should hopefully be good.
 

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