Yes, Sudsmaster there is that, thank you very much. One didn't want to go on and on, and the benefits/properties of STPP have been discussed so much in the group, didn't think a complete reprise was required.
Mr. Boilwash:
Laundry sours aren't by nature supposed to be very strong, as strong acids can damage certian textiles, especially cotton and linen. Acids can also damage certian dyes, which is why many men's dress shirts come with laundering directions for commerical laundries to either omit sour rinses or us a pH buffered solution.
It is possible to use a strong sour by simply adding more product than required. Commercial laundries would use some sort of method to test the pH of the final rinse water, such as pH strips. Home users usually bung in whatever amount of vinegar or lemon juice they think will do the trick.
Whenever possible most if not all detergent/soap residues are supposed to be rinsed out of textiles before the final sour rinse. It is far better for textiles to have the pH level brought down by rinsing (and residues for that matter), than with chemicals. Best case is by the time the sour bath occurs, only a small adjustment of pH is needed, and little residue to deal with.
Sour rinses are usually done at the next to final rinse, especially for textiles to be ironed/pressed. The next rinse after the sour (which can be the starch bath for commercial laundries), flushes away the residues and such from the sour bath.
Soap for laundering diapers:
Actually isn't the best thing, which is why Dreft replaced Ivory Snow for most mothers for cloth diapering.
Pure soaps on their own will not remove goo and poo stains, and the build up of soap residue makes diapers less absorbent (much like fabric softener build up).
Soaps also interfere with flame retardency of infants and children's clothing, again another nail in the coffin of pure soap versions of Ivory Snow.
Still, nothing gets one all broody than the scent of nursery items laundered in the old Ivory Snow.
Mr. Boilwash:
Laundry sours aren't by nature supposed to be very strong, as strong acids can damage certian textiles, especially cotton and linen. Acids can also damage certian dyes, which is why many men's dress shirts come with laundering directions for commerical laundries to either omit sour rinses or us a pH buffered solution.
It is possible to use a strong sour by simply adding more product than required. Commercial laundries would use some sort of method to test the pH of the final rinse water, such as pH strips. Home users usually bung in whatever amount of vinegar or lemon juice they think will do the trick.
Whenever possible most if not all detergent/soap residues are supposed to be rinsed out of textiles before the final sour rinse. It is far better for textiles to have the pH level brought down by rinsing (and residues for that matter), than with chemicals. Best case is by the time the sour bath occurs, only a small adjustment of pH is needed, and little residue to deal with.
Sour rinses are usually done at the next to final rinse, especially for textiles to be ironed/pressed. The next rinse after the sour (which can be the starch bath for commercial laundries), flushes away the residues and such from the sour bath.
Soap for laundering diapers:
Actually isn't the best thing, which is why Dreft replaced Ivory Snow for most mothers for cloth diapering.
Pure soaps on their own will not remove goo and poo stains, and the build up of soap residue makes diapers less absorbent (much like fabric softener build up).
Soaps also interfere with flame retardency of infants and children's clothing, again another nail in the coffin of pure soap versions of Ivory Snow.
Still, nothing gets one all broody than the scent of nursery items laundered in the old Ivory Snow.
