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roscoe62

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Dec 9, 2010
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With the newer versions using less water for cleaning does this mean poorer rinsing ? Also what would be the best route in a FL'r to purchase today if one would be placing on concrete floor?
Tks
 
Of course, rinsing will be a bigger problem with lower water levels. My advice: look for anyripe of spray-system, a water plus and/or extra-rinse option or the possibility to change the waterlevels some how. Like Miele, where you can enter the service mode and change the amount of water for the rinses in addition to the sensitive option (and you can change the max spinspeed by the way, too, but on your own risk).
Buy a SpeedQueen if you want USA made products, Miele if you prefer German quality. Bot have no spray systems, but use enough water through.
 
My Frigidaire Affinity has a great recirculating spray that comes on in the wash and rinses.The final rinse water is crystal clear with no residue suds LG also has models with recirculating jet sprays.
 
Recirculating spray first appeared with the total redesign of Frigidaire front-loaders in 2010. It's a great feature, as it saturates even full-capacity loads immediately. Helps with rinsing, too. Another feature that's a must-have: internal water heater for true hot washes (usually connected with an Allergy or Sanitize cycle).

I think the TOL Frigidaire front-loader provides great value-for-money in the features department. While it doesn't have a dedicated steam producer, the steam option gives you a 20-minute hot first rinse and a warm second rinse. I use the steam option often with colorfast loads. The Allergy option heats the water to around 130 degrees. The Sanitize cycle heats water to 150 degrees with a manageable cycle time of 1 hour and 36 minutes. Removes any stain from loads of kitchen whites. And the washer can be had for around $900---a relative bargain compared to TOL models from other makes.

The TOL Frigidaire scores very high at Consumer Reports---including excellent ratings for cleaning ability and gentleness to fabrics---but is no longer on their recommended list because reliability ratings have dropped. My 2010 has not given me a problem.
 
I believe the speed and duration of the spins after the wash and between the rinses greatly impacts rinsing. On my washer, the normal/casual cycle adds a lot of water to cool down the load at the end of the wash - filling for up to two minutes, diluting the wash water. But the spin that follows is very slow and brief, I suspect to reduce wrinkling. The spins between the rinses are not as fast or long as on other cycles. I find that this cycle, which uses more water, but spins less, rinses less effectively than other cycles.

The delicate cycle uses a lot of water for the wash and rinses, but doesn't spin at all between cycle segments. Its rinsing is not as good on heavier items, although it is fine for light and delicate items.

On my machine, cycles which use less water but spin faster and longer between cycle segments ends up doing a better job rinsing.
 
Yes - you NEED a built in heater since that's the only way you will get really hot and I mean HOT water.

I think some of the FL washers now have more water options for rinsing, like allergy or skincare. Try to AVOID the normal cycle which uses the least water.
 
Recirculating sprays were introduced in European FLs long before Electrolux introduced it here. I remember seeing the feature in ads in European magazines in the 80s, I believe.

If you want good rinsing, the Speed Queen FL can give rinsing. I let mine go through the usual cycle with two rinses and the final spin. Then I reset the selector to Rinse & Spin and let it go through a third rinse after the good extraction of the thorough final spin, 1000RPM in a large tub. The great extraction means that the final rinse is clear. The machine is far from perfect but, in an age when the bean counters determine the effectiveness of washers and dishwashers, it can deliver good results, especially if you follow the instructions given on this site for increasing the water level up to the edge of the door opening.

As for hot water washing, either purge the lines by running a faucet close to the machine or, before loading, let it fill with hot water and tumble for a couple of minutes to heat up the metal tubs then turn the selector to OFF, then to SPIN to drain it, then back to OFF when it is empty. wait for the door to unlock then quickly load it and start your HOT wash cycle. If you don't keep you water heater set to 140F, you are not going to get a hot water wash without a heater in a washer. Many machines that offered heaters no longer offer them because the nation's bean counters want us all to wash in cold water.
 
My high school English teacher was right: Syntax is of vital importance!

I didn't mean to infer recirculating jets in front-loaders didn't exist prior to the 2010 Frigidaire. Indeed, I believe Whirlpool/Kenmore combos had them in the late 1950s.

What I meant: Recirculating jets didn't exist in American Frigidaire front-loaders until 2010.

I love words and language but forget, sometimes, to be diligent about usage.

:-)
 
Gene, I was not rebutting, merely trying to show that we were late in being offered the feature here in the US. Some say it helps while others complain that it promotes too much sudsing. I know you had to be careful about sudsing with the KM combos. That Roto Spray would whip up suds fast with the wrong detergent or the wrong amount of the right detergent.
 
Frigilux -

Do u happen to have a video of the wash or rinse with the recirculating going on? I want to see what it looks like.

Thanks
 
Alexander: Thanks for finding and posting the video of the Frigidaire washer in action for Mark!

The recirculation spray on my 2010 Frigidaire looks the same as the one in this video, but stays on longer. This one seems to turn on for only about 3 seconds at a time during the wash cycle. I'm guessing it stays on for a full minute two or three times during the wash tumble on mine. The Quick cycle is being shown here (which I've never used) and the recirculation may be timed differently for that cycle.

You get a better idea of how it works if you fast-forward about 20 minutes into the video. Recirculation stays on much longer during the rinses (as it does with my machine).
 
I wish more front loaders had recirculating wash action like this Frigidaire. I think it would greatly add to the cleaning power of the machine and would kind of remind me a little bit of Filter-Flo action.

The trick to good washing in a front loader is a relatively low water level. Highly concentrated detergent and water seeping its way through the clothing and soaking in it. The idea is that dirt and gunk fall to the bottom of the sump during the wash cycle.

Whereas, the trick to good rinsing is a high water level to push the clothing through the water in a circular motion. Although to conserve water, a lot of FL'ers on the market that I'm aware of use a relatively low rinse level as well.

Only one machine that I'm aware of on the market has a manually adjustable water level, but for both washing and rinsing, so what you take away from one, you add to another.
 
I agree with you completely, Bud. Best front-loader scenario: Very low water level for wash; higher for rinses. I always set the water level lower on my old WCI front-loaders circa 1987-1996. Not as low as today's machines, of course, LOL.

I'm used to it now, but the first few loads in the 2010 Frigidaire were shocking: There was no water in the tub! But I can't argue with excellent results, so I made my peace with it and just let the machine do its job.
 

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