New Front Loader

[DADoES]

 
Yes, the third "silver" piece is the thermal fuse.

The internal fuse linkage basically melts when it blows (at 352°F).  This business about slamming it to the floor for a reset blow my mind.  I suppose a sharp impact could make the melted ends of the linkage touch but it can't possibly function properly.

The high limit thermostat triggers at 295°F, resets when it drops by 80°F (I think). Thus, the high limit thermostat normally prevents the element from getting too hot, if airflow is obstructed or for whatever reason.  The thermal fuse doesn't come into play unless the high limit thermostat fails to shut off the element at the "normal" overheat point.

 

[combo52]

TF Keeps Triping On A 27" WP Built Dryer

Yes you must replace the TF if it trips, and replacing the hi-limit heater box thromostat is a good idea as well.

 

I would also take the heater element out of its can and see if the center plate is cracked or badly warped, if so the element may be shorting to the can and this will trip the TF.

 

[rubaducky]

LOL...well, I've been slamming it into the floor for months (7 times total). Continuity comes right back. Runs fine for about two weeks, then trips again. At first though vent clogged, then thought my wife perhaps opening the dryer door to check clothes was the culprit. But now, not sure what was/is the cause.

Anyway, as I said, on the last "reset", broke off a prong, so ordered a new one (eBay link). New one has been in place for about 4 days, and is running fine. Maybe I should wait and make sure the new fuse didn't fix my problem?

Man, keep reading Frigilux's thread. Maybe should just get the old tried and true top loading SQueen set!?

 

[rubaducky]

@Combo. Posted reply #21 as you were posting. Thanks for the suggestions. Will take another look inside and see if any cracks, etc.

 

[frigilux]

Bill-- I've been reading your thread, too, mostly because your fix for the referenced dryer part was to slam it on the floor. Now that's ingenuity!  

 

Anyway, if you are considering a Speed Queen purchase, I'd definitely go for the front-loader rather than the TL.  John (combo52) and The Other Eugene® (Lorainfurniture) give it their stamp of approval for reliability and (when needed) ease of service.  The reason I chose the top-loader had to do with the depth of the machine (only 28") and, primarily, the potential for noisy spins when a FL is installed on a wood floor.  I've been a staunch proponent of the FL format since 1987.  A revolving door of top-loaders (KitchenAid, Frigidaire, Frigidaire Immersion Care, SQ AWN542) also graced my laundry room as second machines for fun, but the daily driver was always a front-loader.

 

A GE front-load pair sits next to the SQs in the common laundry area and I've heard it in action a couple of times.  The owner always chooses the lowest spin speed, so it hasn't caused much of an uproar, but it's definitely louder during spins than my SQ TL.  Having said that, a FL SQ is probably in my future. The lack of an internal water heater---always a deal breaker for me in the past---is a moot point as the washer is, literally, connected to the hot water pipe leading out of the gas water heater. Water entering the washer is 150 degrees instantly. The SQ FL is only a bit deeper than the TL, so it shouldn't cramp the narrow passageway through the laundry area shown in the other thread.

 

If depth wasn't such an issue and if overhead cabinets didn't preclude putting them on pedestals, I'd get a Maytag Maxima 8200 set in a heartbeat. But since I already have a SQ dryer, superhot water is literally only a couple of inches away, and machine's depth (30-1/2") is acceptable, it only makes sense to go with a rear-control SQ FL...when the time comes.

 

 

[this post was last edited: 8/1/2017-07:17]

 

[brucelucenta]

Rubaducky

Now that I see what thermostat you are having to reset, it seems to me that you are having some kind of air flow problem causing this to kick off the thermostatic protector. Before going to the expense of buying new machines, try cleaning every bit of lint and build up from your dryer and the duct work that goes outside. It would almost HAVE to be restricted in some way for that to keep happening. Even if it is restricted partially it can cause this to happen. 99% of the time when a dryer is either slow in drying or has this kind of issue, it is because of air flow restriction. The type of dryer you have really is the best kind of dryer ever made.

 

[rubaducky]

@frigilux. Thanks. Will definitely lean heavily toward the front loader side. Also, plan to research the maxima when time permits.

@bruce. We purchased a new house last year and dryer was left in house. Can't speak to how it was maintained. I will say badly...as I removed 70 coins from the dryer during my first cleaning (sigh). But now, vent is new and clear. Dryer is spotless (no lint or buildup). Something must be shorting it out? I will check again probably this weekend, per combo's suggestions.

Thanks.

 

[rubaducky]

@frigilux. Just curious, why hands down the maxima over top of line LG, or even the SQ FL....since your water heater connection makes the SQ lack of heater a nonissue? Thanks.

 

[brucelucenta]

Well, you didn't really ask me, but I will tell you anyway. Consumer reports does rate LG top in the way of reliability for front loaders. But that is not to say that the Whirlpool made Maytag front loader might not be better. They are good machines these days too. I tend to go with whatever I get the best deal on myself. As far as the dryer, it sounds like something is wrong with it, just don't know exactly what. From the symptoms it sounded like a blockage of air flow.

 

[frigilux]

Why I'm a fan of the Maytag Maxima (model 8200 replaces 8100):

1) Capacity: 4.5 cu. ft. drum in a standard 27" wide footprint. Best bang for your footprint dollar.

2) Steam option boosts stain removal for large loads of heavily-stained kitchen whites.

3) 'Profile wash' when using Sanitize cycle. Water is gradually heated from warm to very hot, optimizing stain removal. Less prone to set protein-based stains than filling washer with very hot water right off the bat.

4) Very effective Power Wash cycle cleans the spots off a leopard.

5) Very effective Cold Wash cycle that mimics a vintage Kelvinator's 'Magic Minute.'

6) Quiet operation even at 1400 rpm spin speed (Note: New 8200 model has 1200 rpm max. spin speed.)

7) Automatically doses detergent (via refillable cartridge) tailored to water hardness, cycle, soil level selection.

8) Interior light on model 8100/8200 makes watching a well-lit event!

9) Styling. Love, love, love the look of the Maxima in dark gray color. No spongy control pads to press. Control panel is solid. A light touch against a solid surface activates selection.

 

[mark_wpduet]

What is the magic minute on the Kelvinator?
Also, doesn't the TOL Maxima have recirculation, while the model/s below don't?

 

[frigilux]

1. Kelvinator's Magic Minute: The tub filled about 2/3 full and began its concentric agitation for a minute or so; agitation continued as the tub finished filling. The rationale was that detergent was more concentrated during the Magic Minute and helped remove stains. I don't really buy it, but it was a selling point for the company. The concentration of detergent in today's HE washers (especially front-loaders) is far greater for the entire wash portion of the cycle.  

 

Maytag's Cold Wash cycle wets the clothing with a spray of detergent-laden water.  Then it tumbles at varying speeds, sometimes fast enough to plaster the load to the sides of the drum, essentially pulling the super-concentrated detergent through fibers.  The rest of the water and (some additional detergent) is added after about 15 minutes and the cycle continues.  I found cleaning very effective---but I'm not one to wash everything in cold.

 



 

2.  No Maytag has recirculation, as did my TOL 2010 Frigidaire.  Water for the wash and 1st rinse is sprayed in a fan-like formation if you use the auto-dosing detergent cartridge.  It looks like recirculation in photos, but it is not.

[this post was last edited: 8/3/2017-10:39]

 

[henene4]

The Kelvinator washed with all detergent, yet half load of water for the first minute or two, and then filled to the max level. Same principal as F&Ps Eco Active wash, or the pretreatment stage on some WP HE TLs.

And no, no current WP build FL has a true recirculation system. The machines with the automatic dispensing have a spray nozzle that sprays the detergent water mixture directly onto the load while filling, but that really is just water line pressure.

 

[brucelucenta]

LG

But LG has re circulation on the heavy duty cycle.

 

[mark_wpduet]

LG has recirculation

on almost all cycles if turbo wash is on.....from what I gather....and it also does a legit spray rinse....
I swear I thought the TOL Maxima had re-circulation based on the pictures. Good to know it doesn't.....The cold wash cycle you described sounds similar to the way the rinses work on my duet....after each spin, the washer slows but keeps a slow spin as it fills pulling water through the clothes and sloshing it all over while the clothes are still plastered to the drum. I think it REALLY helps with rinsing. Even though I don't like using COLD either, I'll bet it's a cool cycle to watch.
I'm personally still so torn on getting an LG with turbowash or a Maxima when my washer dies. I may get the Maxima simply because it will fit my old school duet pedestals..

 

[rubaducky]

Thanks for all the well-expressed explanations and replies.

My new thermal fuse tripped again today. Made it five days. Wife was doing a mid-sized load of towels. Could more weight (towels) cause the drum to "sag", maybe causing the drum/tub to touch something that is tripping the fuse?

Anyway, back to the to old "slam it into the concrete floor" and we're up and running again. Hoping to make it to Labor Day...and catch some good sales. Mark's post got me thinking if the pedestals on my Kenmore Elites will fit the Maytag Maximas?

 

[mark_wpduet]

they might

I had much trouble finding this out...and I still don't know for sure because of the different answers I got...Calling Whirlpool, giving them details on my machine....one person said no, the next 2 said yes....they linked me to the pedestals and they look exactly like mine in the picture - they even asked me if those looked like the ones on my current duet.....At any rate, I'm semi-confident my 2005 pedestals will fit current WP or Maytag FL's.

As for Kenmore - who knows? I know WP makes Kenmore (or they used to), I think its LG now. But Kenmore likes to to design changes so who knows.

At any rate - pedestals are a huge expense but they are so nice to have. It would be a major waste if they did not fit and if they don't, I'm not so sure I would buy more.....because I don't think a FL washer sitting on the floor is any worse than a regular dryer...they are at the same level, but people seem to complain about bending down to unload the washer, yet that was never EVER a problem with a dryer - but it's the same thing.

 

[iheartmaytag]

Mark

I am fairly sure the pedestals will fit the newer models.  All you really need is the size (footprint) and the leg mounts to match up.

 

Where you will notice they are from a different version is the styling is slightly different, so you may not have  chrome stripe where the newer pedestals would have.

 

And you are correct about them being an expense.  I paid $250 each for mine, but I got a $400 rebate card back, so I figured they only cost me $100 in the end.