New here... Into the Aussie Hoover (blackstone type) washing machines

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Blackstone Pump

Erik,

About 6 years ago, I sold the majority of my Blackstone parts inventory to John Lefever (combo52). I don't have any of those pumps left. Check with John if he has any.

What we used to do to increase the lifespan of the pumps is to drill a hole in the plastic housing, above the pulley, and squirt oil into it, so that the oil flows down to the bearing. Also, take the pump apart, and check to see if the rubber impellers have expanded.

Fred
 
Thanks Fred!

The pump has started to sieze up. I've pulled it apart; there is nothing obstructing it at the impeller. It seems that the friction is coming from the drive shaft. So I'll try your method of drilling a hole. Just don't want to create a leak!

I have attached pics of the pump - maybe you could take a look and indicate the best place to drill? Really appreciate your help too btw. If you ever need any help from down under please lemme know!

Ps i will try to look up John. Hope he still has a pump (or 3). Can't believe that Hoover Australia sold 4 million of these machines between 1969 and the early 90s and there are almost none left

Baily: guess what? I went to the State library NSW and scanned the entire book on the Hoover factory for you. It was really only a small thing. Will upload soon, or can I send it via FB?

Erik😀

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Hiya Erik

Thanks for scanning that.... I tried getting it through the library system, but to no avail.

Facebook.com/Chlorinedreams

As for the pump, can the pulley be removed? As this is what I'd do, spray in some crc to help free the seizure remove pulley and slide the impeller and shaft out, clean shaft and bushes. Check / replace seal (if fitted) drill the oil hole re lubricate and reassemble..

As cleaning the shaft and bushes thoroughly will stop it wearing at a rapid rate.

Hope you can recover it, or someone here finds one for you.... If I come across one I'll let you know.
 
Thanks Baily

Have had it apart and can't get the impeller off the shaft - either it doesn't come off or I don't have the right tools.

So I think I will have to go with the drilled hole and oil. I'm thinking that the pump seal is up near the impeller?

When I tried to take it apart I could see that in the plastic housing is a metal tube and it's in this that the rotating shaft is. That being so, I wonder if drilling a hole in the plastic will be beneficial. Still, I can't tell if the tube goes all the way through up to the impeller. Sounds like I need to experiment a bit but I can't afford to wreck the thing and put the machine out of action.

I emailed the guy Blackstone recommended but haven't heard back yet. Fingers crossed he has a few pumps laying about!
 
Thanks John

Really appreciate you looking into the Blackstone pump for me. I'd be interested in whatever you have - might be able to piece somethings together if you only have non-operational stuff, etc.

Thanks once again!!
 
Erik,

The impeller does not get removed from the shaft. After taking apart the two halves of the pump, and removing the pulley from the bottom of the pump, you can press down on the shaft. Best to use an arbor press with a center punch that is smaller in diameter than the shaft. An arbor press applies a gradual, even pressure, so you won't crack the plastic pump housing. You should be able to remove the shaft/impeller and clean it.

We would drill a hole as noted in the picture, so the oil could go down to the bearing when the pump is installed in the washer.

These pumps were replaced relatively frequently; the rubber impeller expanded or deformed. Hopefully, your problem is just a rusty shaft, so it is an easy rebuild.

Those round rubber belts from the motor to the pump stretch out, too. It should be very tight, almost to the point of not being able to stretch it on the first try.

One more bit advice--since that belt is near the front of the machine, don't push a mop under the machine when it is running.

What part of Sydney are you in? I correspond with a cousin in Hurstville.

Fred

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Thanks Fred

I live in Sydney and Hurstville isn't too far away from me. I'm at Wollstonecraft.

Thanks for the mark up of the pump.

The pump on my machine was replaced in 1999 and doesn't have a rubber impeller, it's plastic. Another point of difference to the pump that you described is that the housing for the drive shaft on my one is metal. A steel tube has been placed inside the plastic of the pump housing and the drive shaft is contained within it. So this makes my set up a little different. If the tube goes up as far as the arrow you indicated, then drilling in to it might be not possible. I'll try it though.

Wow, I can't believe these pumps got changed as frequently as you said and now they are completely unavailable in Australia. Bloody oath!

I've tried to get the pulley off the pump - no luck so far. It seems to be on pretty tight. I also don't have an arbor press, just a regular guy's hand tools. I also don't have any mates with decent tools so I guess I might have to take the bastard somewhere to take it apart ...

I am determined to get the thing going again, so I will. That said, I am very interested in any spares you might have. Oh actually, do you have the work shop manual relating to the pump? I'd be really grateful.

Thanks,
Erik
 
Thanks Guy!

Yeah that's an original 1976 floor in my laundry. Actually that's the last time the apartment was renovated. It was built in 1967 and had a do up in 76.

I'll get some pics for you guys - the kitchen has a (then) top of the range Custom deluxe range by Frigidaire and some other little interesting things.

Yeah I like the floor; I'm glad you do too :) Yellow and orange are two of my favourite colours :)

Take look at my old Volvo and the Briton's carpet I have through my place ...

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I'll have to check to see if I have any breakdown manuals for the pump itself. I don't think that Blackstone sold individual components for the pumps--just the entire pump. Interesting that you have a plastic impeller. Maybe those lasted longer than a rubber one.

Of course, you first problem is removing the pulley. Try using a small gear-puller, the kind with the 3 adjustable legs.
 
main plastic tub seal

just putting it out there: anyone know what the part details are for the MAIN TUB SEAL for the newer top loaders (720-920)?

it is what the drive shaft spins in. My seal has started to perish: there is a squeal on spin and some resistance keeping the drum from accerating to full speed.

Thanks guys :)
 
I know Sydney's

climate is more arid like San Diego, than say Darwin's, so carpet is fine. In south Florida, it's more rare in favor (favour) of ceramic, marble, or granite tile. More time is likely spent out doors even in winter. Here in the great lakes region, sculptured carpeting was very big in the 60's, and 70's, as an alternative to shag. By the 80's, it was plush saxony then berber.
 
Seal kit

I have a few of these... Will post a pic of one when I am near it.....

The seal assembly radically changed when they went from metal tub to plastic, the older type had a metal bushing in the seal assembly and was a solid set rubber - effectively top support bearing,

The 800-900 machines have a brace and centred bush assembly that keeps the box/bowl centred. And the seal is 31.7 63.5 10
 
Changing the seal

Have done a couple of these in the last few months

Things you will want

Phillips and flat screw drivers

Metric spanners

Socket set with log extension (for agitator removal)

1.8kg mini sledge hammer

Length of thick metal pipe

Lithplex ep2 or similar grease

Engine oil (10w40) or similar

Wet and dry paper 600 grit and 1200 grit

40600459 seal kit

--------------

These machines are getting on in age and things like seals are more likely to surface as things to replace

*** some operations are used with power - do only so if competent, the operation can be done without, but will take a lot longer (mainly shaft preparation for new seal)

Slide machine toward front a bit ~ 8 inches (this will help on top flip back) leave water and drain hoses on (will help cleaning tub if you decide to)

Remove front panel

Remove 2 10mm bolts that secure top assembly to front brace, then can tilt whole top assembly back to wall behind.

Unclip the 4 clips that hold tub top to main tub

Remove rinse dispenser from agitator and using socket set with long extension, unscrew bolt and remove agitator from drive shaft.

Now unbolt 2 stainless bolts that clamp the wash bowl to the outer drive shaft, use flat blade driver to remove wash bowl retainer bar (retainer bar is stainless aswell as the drive shafts and bolts) the wash bowl hub is alloy - over the years the electrolytic reaction can make the next step interesting (1)

Now to try bowl removal.... Back in the day at this point the bowl would easily come loose from the outer drive shaft and trickier ones often broke free after letting get to spin mode then stopping the spin cycle and the brake action vs inertia did the trick.

Now these are older you can try the brake trick or turn bowl clockwise to see if it breaks free from drive shaft.

If not use length of solid pipe and 1.8kg mini sledge hammer.... Apply firm blows evenly across the hub, once bead breaks rotate bowl clockwise whilst lifting.

Once bowl is lifted you can clean tub (if dirty) - I used spray and spin mode on gentle cycle with the tup top sitting in place and scrubbed build up off.... Water supply provides the rinse and the pump got rid of the crap. (This can be repeated till you're satisfied with tub) This helps water run off to be more quicker during spray and spin cycle, reducing chance of foaming build up in this cycle.

*** prep for new seal...........

As these machines have been going for years invariably they will be showing evidence of calcium build up and or electrolytic reactance from the water and whatever chemicals and the natural metallic interference.

All of that on the shaft is bad news for a new seal.... So to prep the shaft I use spray and spin mode (again) though this time on normal cycle, using the 600 grit wet and dry, lightly apply the paper around the shaft after wetting it - this is where having it running is advantageous.

Even shaft coverage is key, once it is free from the mess, finish up with the wet 1200 grit lightly, this will ensure no seal failure upon installation. Also make removal of old parts easier.

Dry up around seal area

Remove old seal assembly - top lid, retainer main seal.

Take care with outer drive shaft and tub surfaces... Use a moderate flat blade mid seal surface and pry it up

Then check shaft surface, using wet and dry paper carefully clean remaining shaft - pack rags on lower side to protect bush from debris....once satisfied, remove rags....

Then place new felt on top of bush... Apply engine oil to this (these are a porous bush and will soak up oil so don't be too stingy with it)

Apply lithplex or similar to inner seal AND outer drive shaft, evenly slide main seal into place (gently and evenly tap into place)

Replace retainer (large plastic ring)

Check that gearbox is fully in braked position (rotate clockwise to check) then slide new cap down till it lightly rests on retainer.... (When in spin mode this is elevated with gearbox, in wash mode it marginalises leakage)

Take wash bowl pit and rinse /dry hub centre. Apply lithplex to shaft surface and outer drive shaft, refer note (1) to make future removal easier

Line wash bowl up to retainer cutout, re install cleaned stainless retainer and raise wash bowl whilst ensuring the retainer locks into position, then evenly and gently tighten retainer till bowl is firmly locked into place, tighten firmly.

Re assemble rest in reverse to disassembly.....

One May want to replace inner shaft seal(agitator to outer drive) at this point - use lithplex on seal surfaces

Regards Baily
 

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