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i guess if the manufacturers need to heavily stipulate leaving the door and dispenser ajar and using the "clean washer" setting it could help diffuse this problem and not just put all that info in the manual but a huge sticker on the damn door so they can stumble upon it. i saw this video someone blogged about there LG washer flashed out a little message on the small screen stating to leave door ajar it even demonstrated that! maybe some engineering done by manufacturers to better flush out the machine and air it out should be done since some people are just too damn lazy...i cant get the mold sight out of my head now gross, between i still want a FL'er ;)
 
Somebody give....

....me strength!

What has happened to western society where we feel we need to have warning labels absolutely everywhere to tell us what to do???

Where on earth have our sensibilities gone?

Of all the simple common sense things to do - LEAVE THE DAMN DOOR AJAR AND WIPE THE BOOT OUT!!!

- It has nothing to do with how much water a machines uses
- It has nothing to do with how much bleach a person uses (the majority of Australians and Europeans don't use chlorine bleach in a machine - our washing powders specifically say not to)

The Hoover Zodiac 470 we're about to replace at my parents coast house is over 24yrs old and has NEVER had...

- A hot or warm wash done in it
- fabric conditioner
- liquid detergent
- bleach

Up until it went to the coast, it was my aunts (who had a Keymatic before it) and ALWAYS washed in cold water with OMOMatic. Since we have had it (9yrs), we have continued to use cold water in it.

This machine is now being replaced with our Electrolux only because the timer is starting to stick and the bearings are just about shot....

It has it's original door boot and has NEVER had an odour issue probably because we WIPE THE BOOT OUT and LEAVE THE DOOR AJAR....!!!

End of rant....thank you all for listening
 
FL Odors

I recently got an almost new Ariston AWD-120 Washer/Dryer combo and installed it in my kitchen. It's small and very convenient. It's also my first foray into FL machines. I always leave the door ajar out of habit as I do on all of my machines. I've never experienced any kind of odor and I was misusing fabric softener for a while in it. I don't know if the unit also being a dryer has anything to do with it, but it's been great. I was surprised at how little water it used and at how well it washed. I run warm and hot loads a lot, but no bleach. I use an OxyClean knock-off for whites and towels and Gain HE for detergent.

I understand the odor issue as I have dealt with it twice with other people when they got their FL. Both kept the door shut at all times (both were Kenmores as well). One took my advice and after about a week, the smells were gone. The other person thought it was a good idea, but never did it and just has the machined serviced for over $200 to attempt to fix it. It stinks to high heaven, I did a wash in it once and it took my little Hoover twinnie 2 hot washes to get it out.

It's not the machine's "fault" but something neeeds to be done in the design maybe. I wonder if a vent of some sort would help? "simplify" things for the average consumer. It's sad.

As a side note, the old Hoovers and other portables do mention an "air-out" period after use, the 2 newer machines I have don't... Just a thought as well.

-Tim
 
why frontloaders aren't vented (no more)

early frontloaders in the sixties had a vent in the back side of the tub/machine to exaust steam. As in those time they were mostly used to boilwash, the kitchen/laundry/bathroom where they were installed soon turned into a SPA .... don't even think that every vintage powder smelled that great , those days Dixan was really awful.

Those machines with such a "wet temper" weren't the best thing to fit undercounter. So the early undercounter/built-in frontloaders were vented towards the detergent drawer. Being this always colder than the tub, steam condensates in the drawer and moisture goes back to the tub. Modern FL still do the same

That's why 3 or 4 times a year one has to pull out the drawer, soak it in water and LCB, scrub it with a dishwashing brush and scrub with LCB even the plastic case where the drawer fits - expecially nozzles -

...hope you won't need any sticker warning to rinse away LCB from both drawer and case .... ;-) *LOL*
 
"That's why 3 or 4 times a year one has to pull out the drawer, soak it in water and LCB, scrub it with a dishwashing brush and scrub with LCB even the plastic case where the drawer fits!"

I just stick it in the dishwasher lol.

Then I get a rag and some warm soapy water and clean inside the recess. If it's someone elses machine and hasn't been looked after to my standards an old toothbrush is required.

Since joining this site I've developed a distaste for bleach, and "anti-bacterial" cleaners at all. I use warm soapy water for cleaning and a non-chlorine based cleaner for the toilet.

Whats the point in killing germs when all your doing is ultimately harming your immunity? lol

Matt
 
"I don't understand why Americans have such frequent problems with mold and unplesant odors in their front loaders. Here in Europe as far as I know no one have such problems.
Maybe some of you guys can explain me this. "

As someone who lived in Europe and now in the States there are some pretty big differences, First the front loaders in Europe tend to heat the water much MUCH hotter. This dissolves the gunk of detergent and oil that builds up and is a great media for growing molds and mildews, addtionally hot enough water can kill mold.

US models are big and makers are chasing Green requirements/tax breaks by using less and less water and setting water definitions of "hot" and "warm" lower with each year.

This contributes to the problem as does the fact that for years the American public has been constantly reminded to keep washer doors closed for child safety reasons.
 
Vented front loader

Don't all Whirlpool-made front loaders have a vent at the back of the machine that connects to the outer tub? There are pictures of it in all the service manuals. European washers vent through the detergent dispenser. There is usually a little hidden cut-out where the handle (?) is. When doing a boil wash, the recessed area (where the hand goes to pull the drawer open) becomes damp with condensation. This is true for our Electrolux as well as Miele.

Here's a picture (from Sears) of the fan that's included in the newest generation of Whirlpool washers with "Fan Fresh" or "Fresh Hold" option (on Maytag). Unfortunately, it only works while the washer does its anti-crease tumble: "This option provides periodic tumbling and airflow (aided by a quiet, ultra low energy fan) for up to 10 hours to help freshen your clothes. During this time, the “Done” indicator remains activated, the door remains locked, and the FanFresh™ indicator light will flash. The FanFresh™ option will automatically stop and the door lock will be released after this time expires, or if you press cancel at anytime to unload your laundry."

logixx++11-23-2009-20-10-33.jpg
 
The Reason For Stink!

This is an interesting issue that has come to light in the UK as well as the states. I posted something on here about a year ago because I washing having a problem with my ropey Bosch Classixx washing machine. It was accumulating mold on the rubber seal and smelt rubbish.

The problem was using biological washing detergent, and the washer not using very much water for the rinsing process. If you have a washer that uses tiny amounts water when washing and rinsing this is going to cause problems. I have just moved and I now have a zanussi jetsystem+ that circulates the water really well and i dont have a problem with stink.

A solution I eventually got the smell to go away by starting the wash cycle on the 'extra rinse' option. This filled the machine with a higher water level. I then switched it off and flicked it onto the normal wash. A process I know, but it worked. I also washed the machine through on a 95 degree wash with bleach once a month. This also helped. And finally I now use a super concentrated brand of detergent (Persil Small and Mighty) This means I only use a very small amount of detergent for each wash, thus reducing the amount of soap residue.

BTW: I get the whole saftey issue with keeping the door of the washer open kids will be kids after all. However you would notice if your kid was in the washing machine before you switched it on right? (Hehe jokes)
 
Biological detergents have been around in one shape or other since the late 1960's early 1970's...if not as a single powder, then in combination with an additive such as 'Bio Add'

If biological detergent in conjunction with low water levels was causing the mould on your machine, the majority of Bosch machines of the same age or newer where people use biological detergents would be suffering the same fate - and from what I can tell, they aren't.

Bertrum, as someone who sees machine after machine may be able to shed some light on this....
 
As far as I'm concearned

The problems are caused by lack of high temperature washes, use of liquid or colourcare detergents, and worst of all, leaving the door shut between washes!!!

Water consumption has no impact on whether the machine will smell or get mouldy. I know of Bosch Maxx/Classix with no mould or smells after years of proper use and care. I also know of a Hoover logic (134l for a 4.5kg wash load) which stinks and is coated in mould.

I guess things such as using poor quality or non-biological detergents can make the problems worse, as less dirt is being removed.

A weekly wash at 60* with powdered detergent for whites, a twice yearly boilwash (no reason not to have clothes in this wash) and cleaning of the dispenser 3 or 4 times a year, as well as keeping the door ajar all the time and if you live in a hard water area descale the machine twice yearly and if you still have problems it's probably something to do with the drain rather than the washer.

When I moved into this house the washer was caked in black mould and gunk and it stank, 7 years of being used by gormless students, using only persil small and mighty (liquid) and only washing on 30, as well as keeping the door shut between washes had pretty much ruined it. An afternoon of scrubbing and a couple of boilwashes later and its almost good as new now. The door seal still has some black stains on it but these just will not come off no matter what, that's how bad it was!

Matt
 
recommendations for descaling?

Anyone have hints for descaling a washer? Lime Away? Other agents?

My washing machine repairman (not that the Bosch I now own has needed any servicing since its installation in 2001....) advised descaling dishwashers twice a year with a half bottle of extra-strength LimeAway run at high temp (i.e. Power Scrub Plus in a Bosch, Pots/Pans or Heavy Duty cycle in other makes) wash.

Is the process similar for a washing machine? Do these agents harm the spider or gasket in any way?
 
Hi Rhonic,
Sorry my knowledge about different powders and the chemical reactions on components is limited to giving basic common sense advise:

quality detergents that contain bleaching agents (not liquids)
regular boilwashes
avoid short wash function
use high waterlevel function if possible
leave the door open
don't oversoap
 
Bertrum

Sorry, I wasn't asking for your chemical knowledge, more about if in your travels you had seen an increase in manky machines where there seemed to be a pattern emerging about what was causing it....
 
Hey gang,
I've had a Maytag Neptune FL for going on 10 years now. I have never had a smell problem. With my Neptune I can't leave the door open because of the interior light. However, I do use chlorine bleach for my whites, and when I'm done washing for the day I leave the top mounted dispenser door open. Seems to work for me.
Also I use either liquid or powder detergent depending on what I'm washing, and fabric softener.
 
Miele's Descaler

Is *not* pure citric acid, at least not the boxes one has ordered.

IIRC, the product is from Reckitt-Benckiser, and contained formic and other weak acid, along with surfactants.

RB does make descaling products for electric kettles, coffeemakers and such that is mainly citric acid.

L.
 

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