new thread, same machine, 1959 Whirlpool washer won't spin

[akronman]

This continues from an old thread-----
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?62439_46#bott

Washer worked fine for a year, then had a clunk a few times as it went into spin, then just froze up for spin, no movement, belt ruined.

I installed a new belt yesterday and greased both the cam bars and all items they ride thru and move and everything that moves them. Agitate is fine, pumping is fine, but the washer completely stops when the spin cam starts to move. From up top, the basket will not budge an inch, very frozen in place.

This is a 1959 (year of my birth) upscale Whirlpool with no other problems, and a matching gas dryer, so if it takes some massive rebuild, I will do it for sure. About 5 years ago I completely rebuilt a 1960 Whirlpool(but memory fades since then)

Thanks Gordon and John and others---

 

[kenmoreguy64]

Hmmm...

Mark -

If you can't reach in and spin the basket by hand, not even a little, then something is wrong in the centerpost & basket drive areas.

You'll need to remove the agitator, the tub ring, the agitator drive block, and the basket locknut to remove the inner wash basket.

Then you'll be able to see what condition the centerpost is in, and what might be causing the lock-up.

Gordon

 

[akronman]

all better

Gordon-----maybe I was weak the other day? I took off the water inlet and the filter assy, and snubber, got the tub top off and decided to give it one more push. It moved with one hand. It moved easier and farther with two hands, so I put it into spin and it took off wonderfully. Then I did suds return for dry agitate, then back to spin just to be sure.
2 loads of clothes later, all seems well and I will leave well enough alone. There is a smell of new rubber from the belt, not burning rubber, and the old one was BAD.
Now, it kicks into spin with no problem at all, rapidly gets up to speed, and the pumpout seems better during neutral drain, real power behind it. Who knows how old the old belt was, but what a NEW MACHINE with a new belt.
Thanks
Mark

 

[akronman]

New pump

The 1959 Whirlpool has been pretty darn good almost 2 years, then about 2 months ago the recirculating pump wasn't recirculating, and I'd put it in spin for a few secs, a few times, and then the pump worked again. Hmm
Then probably 3 times in the last 10 loads, no pumping, and I'd cautiously---with the cord unplugged---reach in a tight space and twist the pump shaft, all was well for another load or two. So tonight I decided to swap out the pump.
Well hell, it was original 1959! It deserved its rest.

 

[akronman]

now

it has a mid 80's plastic 4 port pump, and I swear the filtering has 50% more water, it shoots out over halfway between the rim and the agitator.

Things are pretty dusty/rusty underneath, but I won't fix what ain't broken and doesn't leak.

All is well again, this machine is the same age as me.

 

[hippiedoll]

WOWZERS!!

A beautiful looking machine. And great pics!

Just by looking at the picture with the lid open, I can just hear the sound of the water flowing into the washtub as the washer agitates.

)

 

[maytag85]

I had the same issue two months back with my Lady Kenmore portable washer. The washer would agitate, but would not drain or spin, turns out that that shaft on the pump stripped out, and was spinning freely on the shaft, not driving the pump. Installed a new pump, and it was good as new. Thought it was the wig wag solenoid at first, but it turns out it was the pump.

 

[akronman]

Ran fine til early 2018

when I took it out of the lineup for some other washer. Now I put it back in service and no motor! First thing I did was take the belt off, still no motor, so now it's off the machine. Everything looks like it's original. I wasn't impressed with some rust and dirt inside the capacitor cover, and I have another capacitor. The original says 173 to 202 MFD MicroFarrads, my spare says 233 to 280 and very specifically says MOTOR START. Can I use it safely or should I buy an exact match? I know almost nothing about capacitors, I've heard of START capacitors and RUN capacitors, don't know the difference but don't want to harm the motor.
Also, for bench testing, it's a 1959 GE motor on a Whirlpool washer, 2 speeds, one direction, 3 wires total to the motor (capacitor is internally wired.) Blue Orange White. I'm guessing white as neutral, then one color is high speed, the other is low?
Also, weirdly, the matching dryer has a Packard motor instead of GE.

 

[akronman]

more

Check out that dirt on the motor mount, did I have the belt too tight and that's rubber?

 

[sfh074]

Close enough .....

https://www.ebay.com/c/1483274754

Only thing to consider is physical size of this capacitor, to make sure it will fit inside original motor cover.

 

[akronman]

new capacitor was all it took

Running well again, 61 years old

 

[combo52]

1959 Motor Running Again

Yay, that was one of the problems with using capacitors on split phase motors, They Can Fail. 

 

If you suspect a capacitor problem try by passing it, if the motor starts you can replace it if you want to. 

 

With todays better house wiring and stronger voltage [ 120 ] start capacitors are not usually needed except under extreme starting conditions.

 

Hi Mark, the belt dust on top of the motor is pretty normal especially if the belt was a little loose or the motor pulley a little rusty, you get a lot of wear at the driving motor pulley.

 

John L.

 

[maytag85]

Speaking of motor issues, was having motor issues on my Kenmore portable belt drive washer and lost the low speed on the motor and a new motor is on order. After I put the motor on my Kenmore portable washer it’ll be up and running once again.