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Funny enough, the original fuzzy logic system is rather slow in terms of reaction time. If something happens north of 400rpm, those bords react most likely to late if they ever have the change to do so.

As I wrote this, a sentence from a German book popped into my head. It's about a family visiting their grandparents. On the way there, they are hit by a nuclear blast. WW3 started.
As it turned out, the grandparents were shopping in the nearby city (Fulda) as the explosion went off.
The doughter is then quoted with the sentence "Hopefully, they just instantly evaporated".
Don't know how my head drew that connection.
 
Best thing for getting at underarm stains on shirts

That kills the whiff has been a good vintage bar soap. I say vintage because most are no longer produced, well at least not in their original form.

Kirkman's Borax and Fels Naptha work wonders on clearing out nasty yellowing and whiffy underarms.

When fresh perspiration is pH neutral to mildly acidic. However if the stuff is allowed to sit it will become alkaline. This explains the old advice to use alkaline substances on fresh whiff stains and acid on older ones. You want to use the opposite of what the stain is to neutralize.

Best way to protect against perspiration stains is to wear undergarments or use shields. Oh and launder items shortly after they have been worn if exposed to sweat. Chucking things into a hamper and allowing them to marinate for several days (or weeks) is going to make the problem worse.
 
You know, here in Germany, we had Candy do this in a Consumer Reports test field. Consequence: A Europe wide action. Reducing spin speeds, redesigning, exchanging of parts.
And why? Consumer Reports lab conditions. They have standard loads, even loading is regulated. Thus, it was basicly taken as scientificly proofen to be a design flaw.

However, there are cases of pretty much any manufacturer haveing such fatal faults. I know that Indesit&#92Hotpoint had such failures, I know of a video where the "biggest" collector of washers from Germany had a case where an AEG had a fatal bearing failure during a spin, causing the machine to flip on its side.

And as we concluded here often enough: Most cases, it is directly relatable to consumers user errors. Waterproof items, plain wrong loading, using machines that had obviously not been set up correctly or used even though they were broken.

And on top, seeing that maybe 100-1000 cases are known of something like this happpening in the US, while several million washers are out there, it is not actually such a big deal.
Now, take into account how likely it is for a consumer to be in the same room as the washer is running, and on top this kind of damage only can happen during high speed spins, it will take a long time to anyhow affect a customer in its personal health.
 
There has got to be some type of sensor that is not working correctly in these washers.  Take for instance my first generation HE3T washer.  If a load was severely off balance and could not be redistributed the washer would only spin as slowly as it could handle the load or actually not spin at all and give an error code.  This is on a 15 year old washer with the technology that was known back then.  Spring forward 15 years and we have units that are smarter with even better safety controls.?

 

On these machines it actually looks like everything was balanced and the controls proved it was okay to go into max spin.  It seems as though something failed on the lines of the suspension, bearings, spider, etc.  Not the computer.

 

Have there been any reports of LG or Samsung front loaders having this type of catastrophic failure?

 

 
 
Destroyed washing Machine

For a washer to sustain this type of damage it had to be going near full speed and there is no sensor on any washer that will suddenly stop a washer under that condition if something catastrophicly fails or the load quickly becomes unbalanced such as a mattress cover with a plastic cover where the water is released suddenly when the plastic cover ruptures.
 
Hmmmm

I have not heard of any of these machines doing this. However, I agree with Malcolm, if you aren't supposed to use a high speed spin on a bulky cycle, maybe the machine should have a overide to a lower spin speed. It seems to me, if you use a bulky cycle, you would want a high speed spin to get the items as dry as possible. Just sayin!
 
On our Duet, I really don't see much of a difference on the medium spin setting on the normal cycle. It sounds like it only spins 50 rpm less or so from its full 1200rpm when using the medium spin speed on normal. You can only select high, "medium" and no spin. Slow is not an option for some reason though.
 
you would want a high speed spin to get the items as dry as

Well in theory yes, but actual practice is another matter.

High spin speeds place great stress on parts of a H-Axis washer. These are multiplied if the load is unbalanced and or very heavy. End result is almost always the same; shortened lifespan of the machine as rear bearings, shock absorbers/suspension system and or other parts such as drum spider simply become worn out.

It is totally possible to build/design H-Axis washer to withstand high G-force spins and keep in keeping on; lord knows commercial units have done so for ages, this however costs money.

Even Miele washers from certain build series are not immune to the stress of frequent high speed final spins. If you search the Internet there are plenty of reports of 1900 series units with failed rear bearings and other such problems. In particular the 1918 series which IIRC had final spin speeds up to 1600rpms.

Miele seems to have learned from that mistake and future washers stopped at 1400 rpms spins IIRC. Indeed it does seem even in Europe final spin speeds of 1600, 1800 fell out of favor. The stress placed upon the washer versus returns in terms of extra moisture removed just isn't worth bothering with.

Largest difference in terms of water extraction comes when going from say 800rpms to 1000rpms or up to 1400rpms. After that the moisture extracted really isn't much. That is the one percent or so (maybe less) increase in moisture removal has nil to no impact in (machine) drying times.
 
I use the Bulky Cycle on my LG FL for heavy items like rugs, king comforters, king bedspeads, ect. The spin speed is limited to med., the default spin speed, or low. When the heavy load is done, I run a spin only on ex. high of high for extra extraction, There is never a problem with the machine spinning at the the higher speed once the majority of the water weight is gone after the med. spin. This really helps to reduce the dry times and only takes a few mins. extra time.
 
Basic laws of physics

Concrete weights are on top to exert downward pressure/weight to counter the upwards forces generated by the suds container.

Concrete is actually the cheap way out, better machines such as Miele and some other European brands used or still use cast iron. This accounts for the bulk/weight of these machines.

Concrete blocks can and often breakdown. That and or one good "bang" from an out of balanced load will cause them to break.

There are two schools of design when it comes to front loaders and counter weights. The older model which used heavy materials such as cast iron thus affording protection allowing washers to spin a badly unbalanced load without damage (much) and remain relatively stable.

The other school which you see more and more of today with modern machines is to have electronics control the machine to minimize unbalanced load and thus any potential damage while keeping things stable.

My older Miele washer has only a set number of attempts to balance/distribute a load. When the timer says "lets roll" it will spin regardless, banging, clanging and vibrating away. This was pretty much the same for all older front loaders even those with concrete counter weights.

Now my more modern Oko-Lavamat uses sensors and computers to control drum movements. If it is determined a load isn't balanced enough to spin properly either it won't or will do so slowly. That or it will stop and attempt to redistribute the load into something that can be handled.

These new out of balance controls are a response to front loaders that spun badly unbalanced loads an in the process not only damaged themselves but often anything around them. The problem is depending upon how the things are programmed they can be too sensitive to unbalanced loads. Thus you hear complaints about machines taking ages to rev up to spin speeds and or simply giving up and not spinning at all.
 
Spin Sploding washers AGAIN??I would think the washer builders would have better safety sense in their machines to STOP them and give and audible and visible alert(the washers display LCD screen)that the load is unbalanced.Even if the user chooses the wrong cycle the machine should be able to protect itself and the user and his property.It should shut down if the load becomes too unbalanced.These machines are starting to resemble aircraft engines on test stands!Engine builders do whatever they can to PREVENT Spin Sploding engines!!!It would seem if science and man can build aircraft engines with fan assemblies spinning at 4,000 RPM and weighing close to half a ton in weight we can do it with washers.And these engines have cowlings designed to withstand a thrown fan blade.Guess we can line washers with Kevlar as in those airplane engines!
And as John says--DO NOT wash waterproof matteress covers or other objects in high speed spin washers.This is a an application for older design TL washers.
 
Spin Sploding Washers

We don't know what happened here.

If you put a plastic covered mattress pad in any washer ever built and the machine balances properly and gets up to full speed and then the plastic covers ruptures and the load suddenly becomes unbalanced the washer can be destroyed. This is like throwing a cinder block in a machine while spinning at full speed.

Speed Queen FL washers do use only cast iron counter balance weighs,this is part of the reason they can out between 3 or more regular FL washers.

http://
 

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