...this:
Now, why do you suppose I be drawing...
- Thread starter bajaespuma
- Start date
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...and this:
...and this:
...and, of course, this(hey, I can dream too, can't I?):
toploader55
Well-known member
Crazy
Did you just aquire something New ????
Did you just aquire something New ????
No, actually, June is Maytag month.
I just acquired a whole bunch of very colorful 'Tags. But I'm waiting for one of the experts to decipher the serial number plate for me. I'm guessing these were among the first Center-Dial models with the gold escutcheon(gee, I love that word!).
I just acquired a whole bunch of very colorful 'Tags. But I'm waiting for one of the experts to decipher the serial number plate for me. I'm guessing these were among the first Center-Dial models with the gold escutcheon(gee, I love that word!).
Why do you be using "be"?
I have a Mustee laundry sink, but in white. Never saw it offered in colors.
I have a Mustee laundry sink, but in white. Never saw it offered in colors.
mistereric
Well-known member
WowWowWow. A Suds Saver 806!
W = 1975, S = August.
Is the dryer volty or gas?
W = 1975, S = August.
Is the dryer volty or gas?
MT DRYER
Dryer looks to be electric there is no small door on the front for small loads.
Dryer looks to be electric there is no small door on the front for small loads.
maytagbear
Well-known member
Lovely drawings!
You do Maytags as nicely as you do GE, Baja.
When I bought my Dependable Care set in 1997, I played with the salesman and asked if they were available in Pasteltone Pink or in Sunny Yellow. Alas, just Almond (which I detest,) or White.
(To me, they are still my new washer and dryer!)
Lawrence/Maytagbear
You do Maytags as nicely as you do GE, Baja.
When I bought my Dependable Care set in 1997, I played with the salesman and asked if they were available in Pasteltone Pink or in Sunny Yellow. Alas, just Almond (which I detest,) or White.
(To me, they are still my new washer and dryer!)
Lawrence/Maytagbear
I'm going to need major kibbutzing with this one!
Tom, "be" was a typographicalllll errrorrr. It's a "Mustee" suds-saver tub? Nice to know. It was a lagniappe; came with the set. Belonged to a LOL who like to save her suds.
Eric, thanks for the carbon dating. I was pretty sure it was one of the first "Goldies". I was shocked when I saw my first one at Gimbel's on 86th street that year(little did I know then what was to come). It's got a Harvest Wheat top and sides, but a Harvest Gold front with the shading. My new rule is no new Maytags without color (although I might break that for a 906 pair). Alas, it also has the dumbed-down bleach funnel on the left side instead of the elegant one on the right side.
Well, I finally have my coveted 15 Maytag buttons. They are a joy to behold(but so worn I'm already figuring ways to restore them). This machine has seen better days. Pictures will come soon, but what you won't be seeing was the nastiest, most gunked-up Power-fin agitator I've ever seen. Forget getting the agitator off of the spline; it took me two days to wrench the lint filter out of the agitator. I don't know what kind of fabric softener these people used, but the inner column was filled with the kind of sticky nasty black gunk that I would expect to see on the Gulf coast(sorry, bad joke). It is still a work in progress. The agitator itself came off after a couple of tries with the "Boiling Turban of Terror". The bottom of the white washbasket underneath the agitator base was coated with a layer of gray scale that took days to loosen and scrape off with a combination of Lime-A-Way, razor blades, elbow grease and this neat little revolving brush thingy that came with my electric screwdriver. Finally had a use for it.
The first run of the machine was a disaster. The panel light lit up just beautifully, but the tub light wouldn't do its thing(yes, I put in a brand new bulb). I never thought I would be concerned about replacing a safety switch on a washing machine, but if I want tub light jollies, a new switch must happen. I should have known I was in for it when I opened the backsplash and found a mummified mouse tucked underneath the control dial complete with bits and pieces of a new nest. The poor thing looked like it had been electrocuted years ago and just remained there. Didn't even smell. The motor arced (arked? arcked? ahhhrrcccced?), hummed and started to smoke. So I grabbed a Natural Spirit and I started to smoke. Thought it would be a good idea to cut the power. The machine leaks from the suds saver diverter gizmo. Can't tell yet whether it's a drain hose connection or the diverter solenoid, or the diverter diaphragm. Got the motor to spin tonight and, against my better judgment, removed the cabinet skirt and disconnected everything to protect the backsplash and those buttons.
I'm going to need advice on: how to test a Maytag motor without killing it or myself. How to deal with the suds-saver diverter stuff (oh I HOPE it's not the solenoid). And maybe how to replace a Maytag motor.
The dryer is just sitting there for now. Looks to be in much better shape than the washer. For some reason the panels were taken off of the units before they were picked up, so now I have to go and find the right screws for them. Labor of love, but I'm a little intimidated. Good thing I'll be out of work for most of July; I need another project to keep me busy. I was using my Edna Turnblad sarcastic voice on that last sentence.
Tom, "be" was a typographicalllll errrorrr. It's a "Mustee" suds-saver tub? Nice to know. It was a lagniappe; came with the set. Belonged to a LOL who like to save her suds.
Eric, thanks for the carbon dating. I was pretty sure it was one of the first "Goldies". I was shocked when I saw my first one at Gimbel's on 86th street that year(little did I know then what was to come). It's got a Harvest Wheat top and sides, but a Harvest Gold front with the shading. My new rule is no new Maytags without color (although I might break that for a 906 pair). Alas, it also has the dumbed-down bleach funnel on the left side instead of the elegant one on the right side.
Well, I finally have my coveted 15 Maytag buttons. They are a joy to behold(but so worn I'm already figuring ways to restore them). This machine has seen better days. Pictures will come soon, but what you won't be seeing was the nastiest, most gunked-up Power-fin agitator I've ever seen. Forget getting the agitator off of the spline; it took me two days to wrench the lint filter out of the agitator. I don't know what kind of fabric softener these people used, but the inner column was filled with the kind of sticky nasty black gunk that I would expect to see on the Gulf coast(sorry, bad joke). It is still a work in progress. The agitator itself came off after a couple of tries with the "Boiling Turban of Terror". The bottom of the white washbasket underneath the agitator base was coated with a layer of gray scale that took days to loosen and scrape off with a combination of Lime-A-Way, razor blades, elbow grease and this neat little revolving brush thingy that came with my electric screwdriver. Finally had a use for it.
The first run of the machine was a disaster. The panel light lit up just beautifully, but the tub light wouldn't do its thing(yes, I put in a brand new bulb). I never thought I would be concerned about replacing a safety switch on a washing machine, but if I want tub light jollies, a new switch must happen. I should have known I was in for it when I opened the backsplash and found a mummified mouse tucked underneath the control dial complete with bits and pieces of a new nest. The poor thing looked like it had been electrocuted years ago and just remained there. Didn't even smell. The motor arced (arked? arcked? ahhhrrcccced?), hummed and started to smoke. So I grabbed a Natural Spirit and I started to smoke. Thought it would be a good idea to cut the power. The machine leaks from the suds saver diverter gizmo. Can't tell yet whether it's a drain hose connection or the diverter solenoid, or the diverter diaphragm. Got the motor to spin tonight and, against my better judgment, removed the cabinet skirt and disconnected everything to protect the backsplash and those buttons.
I'm going to need advice on: how to test a Maytag motor without killing it or myself. How to deal with the suds-saver diverter stuff (oh I HOPE it's not the solenoid). And maybe how to replace a Maytag motor.
The dryer is just sitting there for now. Looks to be in much better shape than the washer. For some reason the panels were taken off of the units before they were picked up, so now I have to go and find the right screws for them. Labor of love, but I'm a little intimidated. Good thing I'll be out of work for most of July; I need another project to keep me busy. I was using my Edna Turnblad sarcastic voice on that last sentence.
cfz2882
Well-known member
does the motor rotate freely?-if not might have to "crack" the
motor loose as it might have rust between the rotor and stator.
If it was seized and you get it turning it might still be good
if the start winding isn't roasted too bad.
motor loose as it might have rust between the rotor and stator.
If it was seized and you get it turning it might still be good
if the start winding isn't roasted too bad.
MT WASHER MOTOR
The motor looks pretty rusted it may have had bleach leaking on it from the bleach dispenser. That was one of the silliest things MT did was moving the bleach from the right side to the left. At the time MT told us that customers didn't like the dispenser on the right side because most people are right handed and there fore they moved it to the left side when they abandoned the timed dispenser. At least on the electronic stack models they put the dispenser on the right side as they not only had the motor on the left but the WL switch, the motor relays and the lid lock and lid sw assembly the left side. Careless pouring and spilling of bleach would destroy a motor almost instantly.
The motor looks pretty rusted it may have had bleach leaking on it from the bleach dispenser. That was one of the silliest things MT did was moving the bleach from the right side to the left. At the time MT told us that customers didn't like the dispenser on the right side because most people are right handed and there fore they moved it to the left side when they abandoned the timed dispenser. At least on the electronic stack models they put the dispenser on the right side as they not only had the motor on the left but the WL switch, the motor relays and the lid lock and lid sw assembly the left side. Careless pouring and spilling of bleach would destroy a motor almost instantly.
mistereric
Well-known member
What a shame its in such a dismal state. I'm sure you can get it back to good! We need a northeast Maytag Center Dial Rebuild Clinic. I wish I had the space to host!
whirlaway
New member
Beautiful Drawings
So you draw any of the old Kenmore frogeye machines? Thanks Bobby
So you draw any of the old Kenmore frogeye machines? Thanks Bobby
You are so right.
IMHO, changing the bleach dispenser heralded a shift in the mission of the Maytag company. Perhaps it was at that moment one of the "old guard" ceo's had to step down for a young turk. With 20/20 hindsight I can say that Maytag washers never got better than the last year that the A906 was offered. The dryers improved for a couple years more. I remember the day I first saw a big-door Maytag dryer (in the Spring of 1975, at a college laundromat). One of the biggest lessons I've learned from this hobby is how much American manufacturers have let us down since the 70's. There was a fundamental shift from producing high-quality goods to doing whatever was necessary to slash costs and increase the bottom line.
Do any of you have any tips on how to test this motor off of the machine? Also, what's the best way to get the motor off of the machine? The slide base is so rusted on this machine I'm not sure how to proceed without doing more damage.
IMHO, changing the bleach dispenser heralded a shift in the mission of the Maytag company. Perhaps it was at that moment one of the "old guard" ceo's had to step down for a young turk. With 20/20 hindsight I can say that Maytag washers never got better than the last year that the A906 was offered. The dryers improved for a couple years more. I remember the day I first saw a big-door Maytag dryer (in the Spring of 1975, at a college laundromat). One of the biggest lessons I've learned from this hobby is how much American manufacturers have let us down since the 70's. There was a fundamental shift from producing high-quality goods to doing whatever was necessary to slash costs and increase the bottom line.
Do any of you have any tips on how to test this motor off of the machine? Also, what's the best way to get the motor off of the machine? The slide base is so rusted on this machine I'm not sure how to proceed without doing more damage.
dnastrau
Well-known member
Rusted nuts
Soak the Allen screw on the motor pulley and the motor shaft where it goes through the pulley as well as the four nuts holding the mount to the washer's base with a good penetrating oil. Some are:
CRC FreezeOff
PB Blaster
Kroil
Liquid Wrench
50% Acetone + 50% Marvel Mystery Oil or Automatic Transmission Fluid (homemade and apparently very effective)
These are available at any hardware or auto parts store, Wal Mart, Home Depot and Lowes. Incidentally, WD40 is really not a very good rust penetrant.
If the rust is really bad I soak it for a few days before attempting removal.
Soak the Allen screw on the motor pulley and the motor shaft where it goes through the pulley as well as the four nuts holding the mount to the washer's base with a good penetrating oil. Some are:
CRC FreezeOff
PB Blaster
Kroil
Liquid Wrench
50% Acetone + 50% Marvel Mystery Oil or Automatic Transmission Fluid (homemade and apparently very effective)
These are available at any hardware or auto parts store, Wal Mart, Home Depot and Lowes. Incidentally, WD40 is really not a very good rust penetrant.
If the rust is really bad I soak it for a few days before attempting removal.
REMOVING STUCK MOTOR
If you can get the motor pulley loose and off the shaft the four 3/8" nuts that hold the motor carriage to the base frame will either unscrew easily or just break off and then you can just change the complete motor and carriage assembly.If I were trying to restore a rough machine like this one I would look for a much better condition donor washer.There are hundreds of better Maytags being crushed every day, and because the machines were almost all the same mechanically through out the line its easy to just install he cabinet controls etc onto another machines insides. Just think you could even have one of the very rare standard capacity 806s with a blue tub if you liked.
If you can get the motor pulley loose and off the shaft the four 3/8" nuts that hold the motor carriage to the base frame will either unscrew easily or just break off and then you can just change the complete motor and carriage assembly.If I were trying to restore a rough machine like this one I would look for a much better condition donor washer.There are hundreds of better Maytags being crushed every day, and because the machines were almost all the same mechanically through out the line its easy to just install he cabinet controls etc onto another machines insides. Just think you could even have one of the very rare standard capacity 806s with a blue tub if you liked.
Maytag used the same base from 1966-2006 on ALL two belt machines, so you can pillage a BOL machine for that. Maytag used the same motor carriage on 2 belt machine from about 1962-2006, so again, not hard to locate. There is an exception though.
12 series and up machines used used a different lower carriage base since Maytag got smart and relocated the 4 nuts in a square pattern design that is located underneath the base, to 3 nuts in a triangular patter located above the base. The newer design is easier and quicker to remove the motor for service, such as a spring and glide replacement or a motor replacement.
The newer style base is backwards compatible so you can use the older style motor carriage on the newer base, but not vise-versa. Both old and new style motors bolt up to both old and newer style motor carriages.
Hope that's clear!
12 series and up machines used used a different lower carriage base since Maytag got smart and relocated the 4 nuts in a square pattern design that is located underneath the base, to 3 nuts in a triangular patter located above the base. The newer design is easier and quicker to remove the motor for service, such as a spring and glide replacement or a motor replacement.
The newer style base is backwards compatible so you can use the older style motor carriage on the newer base, but not vise-versa. Both old and new style motors bolt up to both old and newer style motor carriages.
Hope that's clear!
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