Old Kelvinator Front Load Help

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tommy

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I just bought a place that has an old Kelvinator front load washer (model: AWS100CD1) and I need some help figuring out what this assembly is and what it does. The plastic piece on the front of the pulley is off-center and partially melted, but i don't know what it's for or what the solenoid/lever part that pushes on it does. Is this a critical piece? Anyone know what it does? The belts broke so i have to replace those, but i'm not sure if i need to fix the plastic piece (if that's even possible) or if I can just run as it. Thanks!

tommy-2020112114383309811_1.jpg
 
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Yeah, i can't find anything for this model number. But the spin pulley post above does look like the part i need to replace. Might be worth a shot.
 
manufacturers label

sorry for the subject drift. Seeing that generic label where Kelvinator is printed with a dot matrix printer (and probably p)rinted Kenmore... etc) reminds me of the label printers we used in manufacturing Mini Computers.  We had OEM accounts so we would put on other brand names (IBM, Olivetti). Those UL labels are supposed to survive a fire for product traceability reasons in case the unit they are attached to is considered a suspect in some type of situation.   Once again sorry for the drift.  Just brought back memories.

 

 
 
Melted Clutch Slider On A 3 Belt WH FL Washer

You need a new part, it will not work without this part, Most likely something caused this to over heat and melt. 

 

Most likely is a tight-dry helix spring or tight main bearings, or something caught between the tubs, or trying to start spinning with a load of clothing with either the primary or secondary tumbles belts missing or broken.

 

We still have lots of new belts and other parts for these washers.

 

John L. 
 
I've just put in the serial number details into appliance411.com and tells that it was most likely to have been made in March 1987. :)
 
Melted Clutch Slider On A 3 Belt WH FL Washer

1987 would be correct for this washer, WCI stopped making FL washers in 6-88 for around 6 months or a little longer and then came out with a machine that looked just like these but had a variable speed brush style motor [ from or Germany ] and an imported drain pump, timer and speed control board, this next generation machine worked well but were even more troublesome than the 3-Belt machine.

 

WCI built this revised single belt washer into 1994 then completely scrapped this machine and introduced an all new FL washer in 1996 that was very successful, it was sold under the Frigidaire, Gibson names as well as all the GE and Kenmore FL washers for at least a few years. 

 

John L.
 
@combo52...the belt attached to that pulley snapped mid-load, which i'm guessing is what caused the plastic on this pulley to melt. I've ordered new belts too so hopefully this does the trick. Thanks for the help.
 
Maybe the part can be replicated with a 3D printer?  There must be some commercial services out there that can take the existing one and craft a new one from taking dimensions... 
 
I had a house in Chicago with the laundry room in the (unheated) garage, but the bathroom was large and there was the opportunity to build-in the w/d side by side. Unfortunately, the MT washer in the garage quit (it would work ok in the winter if I left the light on, but it died right when Frigidaire was in the hiatus between the two designs. I ended up with a Roper World Washer in the garage (figured that design would be safer with the freeze/thaw situation than a normal WP).
 
And Known as English Electric

Hellow Tommy, Welcome to Automatic Washer, best place for all the information required on your new to you washer.

The innards are same as our English Electric with the three belt drive, built under license, you can see how the belts, solenoid and spin engage work.

Enjoy the repairing , definitely a keeper !!

 
Parts replaced, still issues

So thanks again for all the help so far. I’ve replaced the belts and spin pulley, but now when I run the machine, the belt with the arrow in the attached pic keeps spinning and nothing else engages. The water fills and drains, but the tub doesn’t spin. The pulleys attached to this belt are get really hot too when it runs for a minute. Any ideas on what could be causing this? I’m wondering If this was the main issue that caused the belts to snap and the pulley to melt in the first place. Thanks.

tommy-2020112816045508085_1.jpg
 
Something must be seized

What does the belt and pulley drive?  I know on Whirlpools the pump can seize and make the pulley resistant, even if it does turn with difficulty.  You may need a new pump.
 
Melted Clutch Slider On A 3 Belt WH FL Washer

It is not a water pump problem,

 

Does the basket turn easily in one direction ?

 

If not you either have sized main bearings, something caught between the basket and outer tub, or hopefully just a clutch-helix spring that is dry and in need of removing and regreasing.

 

Let me know if the basket turns easily in one direction and it should turn the other way as well but will take a lot more effort.

 

John L.

 
 
You’re right. When I try to manually spin the basket there are a couple points in the rotation where I feel and hear some scraping. I assume I need to remove the front panel to try to see what could be scraping between the basket and outer tub?
 
So I removed on of the ribs in the basket and I see there are two things just floating around between the basket and the drum. One is some rectangular white basket looking thing and another is a thin piece of clear plastic with 4 screws in it. They are both just floating freely in there and at times will seize the drum. Any ideas what these are and if I need them? Not sure how to get them out without breaking them or taking the whole washer apart.

tommy-2020112819594701846_1.jpg

tommy-2020112819594701846_2.jpg
 
melted Clutch Slider On A 3 Belt WH FL Washer

Unfortunately an all too common problem of these washers, There [ was ] a porcelain on steel bracket welded to the outer tub that the nylon baffle that you found loose in the outer tub that was screwed to this bracket that rusted and broke loose from the outer tub. This bracket also held the plastic filter basket in place.

 

There was a kit back in the day with a SS bracket that you drilled holes through the outer tub to attach it and then screw the baffle to it. You could probably make one. The original kit could be installed through the opening under the baffle you already removed, but if you are trying to fabricate something you might have to completely disassemble the washer to do it easily.

 

John L.
 
Thanks John. Again very helpful. Simple (and maybe dumb) question. Do I need these baffles and plastic filter baskets? If I just removed them, what would happen?
 
The same thing happened to mine, the metal baffle came off its weld points. During the spin cycle, it deflects water towards to drain hose. Without it, centrifugal force would prevent water from entering the drain hose during the spin cycle. What I did was drill a hole in the tub to secure the baffle and put epoxy over the screw to prevent leaks, and put the plastic piece back in its place (that is the pump guard, to keep large items out if it.) I did not have to take the machine apart to do this and it was not as hard as I thought it would be
 

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