Picked up the Maytag GA310 and cracked it open. Is it worth using?

[wa9alqth]

Hi Everyone

I just picked this MAYTAG GA310 for free and it’s heavy AF. I thought the weight was the mechanical gears and motor but it turns out the weight is mostly from the counter weight and cement rim tub. Now I’m wondering is it even worth using since it’ll just so much electricity spinning the tub since it’s full of cement. Also there is internal rust from daily use and from sitting outside and being exposed to the elements? Is this thing ready for the scrap yard?

Check out the album...

 

[lowefficiency]

>> Is this thing ready for the scrap yard?

Not at all. An old Maytag won't even flinch at that amount of rust. Here's a few photos of the rust on my A408, before and after cleaning it out. We picked this machine up two years ago intending for it to be a parts donor, but have been using it as-is full time ever since.
https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?77619_28

Your agitator shaft is in great condition, and you have the two-speed motor, so both are good finds especially for the price (free). And you have the lint filter without a fabric softener dispenser - That was a cheaper option at the time, but they are neat to have now.

As long as the tub seal seals up OK when you re-assemble, you should be good to go. Good luck!

 

[wa9alqth]

Thanks for the reassurance that this washer is still usable. The previous owner said that it wasn't spinning and said it needed a new bearing, which he wasn't sure of. He replaced the belts, so I went ahead and ordered a spanner tool and bearing kit which are still pending delivery.

I plugged it in today for the first time after bringing it home and it attempts to spin but needed a some help. Once it gets moving it doesn't seem to have any issues gaining momentum. I'm assuming the grinding sounds are from the basket not begin secured or is it the bearings? I still have the machine partially disassembled, waiting for my spanner tool to arrive. Here's a video. Let me know what you think.

 

[rp2813]

I think that scraping sound involves the inner and outer tub spacing being out of adjustment.  The fix, IIRC, is sort of a trial and error thing since the tolerance is fairly close.  Others here with more experience can advise. 

 

I agree that your machine has plenty of life left in it.  As you know, these old Maytags are built like tanks.  I wouldn't be concerned with energy consumption.  These machines were consistently rated by Consumer Reports as the most energy efficient top load washers available at the time.

 

[wa9alqth]

The scraping sound is from the tub ring not being secured. I removed it and the sound went away. The machine looks good so far. I may not even need to replace the bearing. Once I'm able to remove the tub from the shaft I'll be able to inspect, clean, and lube the rest of the unit.

Do you recommend conditioning the rubber seals and hoses with silicone lube?
Should I poly lube the tranny shaft and any other moving parts?

 

[goatfarmer]

Not a bad looking washer, has to be one of the last in gold.

 

[qsd-dan]

Next Stop Willoughby

That 310 is roaring like a freight train on spin which almost always points to a bad radial bearing. A new one from Whirlpool will be Chinese made, here's a much better option.

Pardon Our Interruption...

 

[combo52]

Late 70s Maytag Washer

This machine is still workable, you can either fix anything wrong with it and just use it or go for a Huge Project and restore it.

 

It does sound like the lower ball bearing is noisy, you can replace it if you like but the machine will work just fine with a noisy bearing if you don't mind the noise.

 

I would not take the wash basket out unless you want to restore the machine.

 

To completely restore this washer you could put in anywhere from 25-over 100 hours of work and several hundred dollars, it is worth it if you want to do it but depending on your resources buying a new Speed Queen TC5000 might be a lot cheaper and will certainly last much longer do a better job and use a lot less energy.

 

John L.

 

[wa9alqth]

Do you have any instructions for replacing the radial bearing?

 

[qsd-dan]

You'll have to remove the brake package to access the bearing. There's a special tool to remove the brake but others here have used creative methods to get around it. I personally use the tool, myself.

 

[wa9alqth]

Thanks! Radial bearing ordered.

Do you recommend conditioning the rubber hoses and tub seal with silicone lube?
My goal is to squeeze another 10 years out of this machine, not to restore it.
I’ll probably clean off the rust with naval jelly and spray paint the inside with Rustoleum.

 

[qsd-dan]

I personally have never used silicone as a restoration technique, I just replaced these parts back when they were all over Ebay and inexpensive. I did have an old seasoned Maytag repair men recommend wiping older stiff hoses up and down with solvent until they softened up. I tried it once on a 40 year old drain hose, it kind of worked.

I apply a thin coat of petroleum jelly around the tub seal so it doesn't get pinched when tightening down the metal band. You could probably use silicone there. Make sure the grooved area of that triangle seal faces outward (I face it upward for verification) or it'll leak. You'll also need to properly and evenly space the tub cover. If it's pushed too far down it'll scrape the top of the inner tub or completely jam it during the spin cycle.

 

[wa9alqth]

The previous owner said that the tub wasn’t moving so he thought it was a bearing issue. After I removed the tub cover I was able to spin the tub by hand. Like you said the cover was jamming the tub. The washer should be full functional after proper adjustment of the tub cover and reassembly. Since I have it un assembled I want to tune it up a little.

 

[wa9alqth]

Hi Everyone, thanks for the help with this project, but I just found a matching set of older Speed Queens washer & dryer for $100. I can't pass this up. The Maytag GA310 will have to wait.