Please help me achieve whiter whites

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OP checking back in

I love how much I'm learning about laundry here. Favorit, you are an incredible fount of knowledge. I think I'll use my newfound ability to customize my Miele options to shorten the soak from 2 hours to 1 hr (or maybe even just 30 minutes) and use that instead of prewash to save water and power. Never even thought of that before reading it in your post.

Still waiting on the Persil powder to arrive. My plan is to try that first, and if it doesn't work on those pesky wash cloths, will try some of the other suggestions here.

Questions:
1) What is TSP? (My inexpert googling is yielding a lot of non-laundry related terms...)
2) And SA-8?
 
~Turn on washer with HOT water. As it is filling, add bluing and chlorine bleach.

Bluing and chlorine in the wash will counteract each-other!
Both will hinder detergents.

A quick warm to cool prewash of no longer than 5 minutes does WONDERS for cleaning perfomance! Dont forget to drain and spin, THEN go to a soak or main wash!

Yes Jason less detergent as you go. Add phospates to LONG soaks and to the main wash. May not be so crucial on a QUICK prewash unless the stuff is mega-dirty!

And remember bluing just counteracts the yellow (yellow+ blue = white). FAR better to get the yellow out due to its true, root cause....improper laundering and/or insufficient ineffective detergent without phospates,lack of sufficient rinsing.

Bleach simply removes color, disinfects and takes the ultra-violet specturm of light and makes it visible. So it does makes whites LOOK whiter in light that contains an ultra-violet component.

Here is what I do to wash my whites in a front-loader.
(The normal cycle is a wash and 4 rinses).

Prewash in warm with POWDERED detergent and phophates. Drain. Spin. POWDERED DETERGENS ARE FAR SUPERIOR TO LIQUIDS. {Try SEars brand powder. Cheap and unbeatable! Rinses clean!)

Begin normal wash cycle with HOT water and detergent and phosphates.

Add bleach to first rinse (this is done automatically in Frigidaire brand front-loaders via their disensers).

Add cheap supermaket-brand watery pink or yellow softener(in the gallon jug /3.78L) to the scond rinse.

Add white vinegar (ONLY TO MACHINES WITH PLASTIC OR STAINLESS-STEEL TUBS-- NOT PORCELAIN-- to the third rinse. This is a sour rinse with an acid that will neutralize all prior chemmicals to form salt + water. (Acid + base/alkaline => salt + water). This prevents the bleach residues from eating your clothes during and after the washing process.

Leave 4th rinse clear of chemicals.

Reset machihne to "SHORT WASH" [or equivalent] (My Frigidaire fornt-loader).

NO CHEMCIALS for three pure water rinses and a fast spin.

A word to the wise NEVER EVER EVER buy cheap/inexpensive bleach; it will eat your clothes. NAME-BRAND ONLY NOT BRAND "X"
 
In a top-loader:

Prewash with warm, 5 minutes Add detergent and phophates. drain. spin.

Wash with hot water, detergent,phosphates. Add bleach in last 5 minutes.

First rinse. Use Bluing OR cheap watery softener OR white cinegar(IF YOU DON'T HAVE PORECELAIN).

2nd rinse: MANDATORY to flush away chemicals and bleach.
and to prevent graying /yellowing residues. NO ADDITIVES AT ALL.

And remember LONG soaks with bleach accomplish nothing but getting you clothes EATEN.
 
If you have both a front-loader and a top loader.
Wash as directed in the panel I wrote (that novel in) for front-loaders.

Pre wash cycle
main wash cycle

Instead of three more clear rinses in a front-loader, transfer clothes to a top-loader and do spray-rinses and a deep-rinse, followed by a spin.

You cant beat these results IMHO without a boil-wash.
 
Thanks Holly :)

SA 8 is a detergent line sold by Amway (a door-to-door sale company)

sodium tripolyphospate (STPP) "is widely used in regular and compact laundry detergents and automatic dishwashing detergents (in powder, liquid, gel and/or tablet form), toilet cleaners, surface cleaners, and coffee urn cleaners [3]. It also provides a number of chemical functions including: sequestration of "water hardness", enabling surfactants to function effectively; pH buffering; dirt emulsification and prevention of deposition; hydrolysis of grease; and dissolving-dispersing dirt particles"

The downside is that the waste water containing STTP is a nice food for algae that cause eutrophycation of fresh waters. For this reason it has been banned.
In Europe is has been substituted by phosphonates : these are photodegradated by sunlight, so avoiding the algae issues

 
Trust me darlings.

The maternal unit is a germ-freak where dirt is her personal enemy.

The father is a OCD case with Aspergers.

Believe me, I know dirt and how to get rid of it!

There was no such thing as "too much work" for a desired reult,and no such thing as "the easy way out".

Here, BTW is my boil-washer, a large pot dedicated to my underwear! Did wonders to get rid of tons of yellow before I was informed of a source of phosphates.

YEAS <GROAN> pre-wash in machine first before doing a stove-top boil-wash! You will need tongs to remove clothes

toggleswitch++4-20-2010-22-05-25.jpg
 
elastics and boiling water ???

Toggles, don't you damage them ?

Usually elastics can't survive temps higher than 140 - 160 °F
 
My Own Recipe for White Whites

Hot water, Sears Ultra plus detergent, some 20 Mule Team borax, and a sunny day to let them line dry. :)
 
Toggles,
stay away from AEG ... in the last decade Electrolux dropped down a lot AEG built quality. I'm afraid it will be marketed in north America with premium prices and you'd get far less for what you'd pay.

Miele apart from the canadian W1612 and commercial 24" washers doesn't sell anymore any brand new washer that reaches 203°F.
Yet there are still around W19XX machines coming from salesfloors (220 V and boilwashing)

Bosch/Siemens guess doesn't sell any 220V machine there ...

ASKO is the only one. My only concern is they have PC boards made by ELMARC, the very same manufacturer who make boards for Ariston machines ......those who own a Ariston-Hotpoint know what I mean

So I'd buy a 220V Miele or a mechanical timer ASKO on craiglist
 
OP's Persil results

Persil has arrived via UPS. I tried the universal powder on the wash cloths -- soak, sanitize cycle, extra rinse. No dice. I'm not being very scientific but my *impression* is that the stains lightened about the same amount as with Tide.

Doing a load with Persil megaperls color right now on colored clothing. Looking forward to seeing how that comes out. Would be nice to have a detergent that cleans without me having to pre-treat, but doesn't fade colors. Have high hopes for this one!

Will try sunning the wash cloths this weekend if the weather cooperates. Sun has worked great for me on tomato/carrot-based stains, but usually hasn't done much for me on other types of stains, so I'm curious to see how the gray wash cloths do.

Question: does Persil have STPP? Just wondering if I need to purchase separately to try it. I don't like the idea that it promotes algae in our streams etc and would prefer the European photo-degraded version.
 
The problem won't go away in one wash. It's going to take many, many washings to get back to the way it should be.

It's like going to the therapist. It takes many visits there, and it will take many washings to get the laundry back to normal.
 
Dear OP -

I am with Toggles on the stove-top boiling. I love German Persil, and I use it with STPP on whites and have BRILLIANT results in my front loader.

HOWEVER, I also use white wash cloths and have the same problem with the grey spots in the middle. This is due to body washes. The ONLY way I have been able to get them clean is to BOIL them on the stove for several hours with STPP and some Sodium Percarbonate. I don't use detergent in this load, and I wash them after boiling them.

Even then, not ALL of the grey comes out of every cloth, but it still does a great job nonetheless.

Good luck and let us know how it goes!
 

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