Push Button Whirlpool AKA Lady Kenmore

[brisnat81]

Hi Guys,

Look what I found on our Nightly crawl A TOL Whirlpool, magic Mix dispenser, Bleach and fabric softener and push button with variable water level

I'm thrilled to bits.

What years were the Pushbutton Lady K's made like this? Is this style of control panel early to mid 60's?

I havent powered it up yet, so who knows what'll happen, but although the position selector is cracked, the timer does rotate and stop when you turn the knob.

Unlike most AU whirlpools this lid opens to the back, so I'm assuming that they were being imported rather than manufactured here.

 

[brisnat81]

Control Panel

Here is an up close of the control panel

 

[brisnat81]

The Cycles

Sorry for the Flash

I dont know if the origional thermostat is in there, but the cycles show Hot Medium Warm and Cold Temps

 

[brisnat81]

The Dispensers etc

Bleach, Fabric softener, and Magic Mix

 

[brisnat81]

As you can imagine, I'm totally thrilled to bits

 

[jasonl]

Hey very cool. I think those were mid-60s. Looks like it will need some work but hopefully it will clean up nicely.

 

[appnut]

The agitator style is what's throwing me off. That style was used in 1958 and possibly 1959, no later than 1960 for TOL here. The control panel reminds me of the 1960-1961 washer down the street from me. A truely awesome fine!! Congratulations!!

 

[Unimatic1140]

I agree with Bob, it looks like a machine from the early 60's. I think down under they used the early style agitator cap for quite a bit longer.

 

[frontaloadotmy]

Thrilled to bits for you!!

Hi Nathan,
That Whirlpool looks pretty fancy to me. The ag does look Wp
50's style, but no doubt early sixties too. Early this summer
another member told me that ymi is part of the serial # on
Wp, maybe the same for exports?
Darrel

 

[DADoES]

It's kind of similiar to the 1964 Mark XII that was in John's warehouse. Very kewl!!

 

[cleanteamofny]

Great find Nathan!
What I find so fastinating about this washer is that the control has a slight overhang like the Maytag to look flush against the wall!

Have fun with your new toy....

 

[Unimatic1140]

I just love the fact that is says in very large, fun 1950's style long-script "Push Button" on the left side of the control panel. Because you know how inconvenient dials are! LOL

 

[brisnat81]

No Rust in the Tub at all

Morning guys,

Thanks for the comments so far, I was assuming early 60's as well. Repair guys that I've spoken to say that the black agitator was around until 63 or so. I dont think the agitator is bakelite its to black and shiney. So far I havent been able to find a model number on the machine, most of the AU whirlpools I've seen, the model was attached on a shiney silver sticker at the back. Because of the way the lid opens, I was thinking that this could be a direct import rather than an Australian Assembled machine.

It appears this was a genuine one old lady owner. I lifted the agitator out last night, and there is now soap scum or rust to be seen at all, the porcelin underneath the agitator is perfect. When you rearrange the dirt in the bowl, there arent any chips or rust spots to be seen. I guess they put the porceline on much heavier then.

The cabinet has some surface rust along the botton, and looking at it from underneath, there is surface rust at the top of the frame (if that makes sense)

 

[brisnat81]

Removing the Top

Hi Guys,

I'd like to take the top off before I power it up to make sure the dispenser solinoids are attached connected and that there are no loose wires up top.

However I'm concerned about damaging the hose from the fabric/bleach dispenser to where it joins underneath.

Does anyone have any recomendations before I start, on how to lift the lid and disconnect the hoses from the Magic Mix, and Dispensers?

 

[brisnat81]

Suds Save and Pump

The Machine has a metal suds diverter, with a huge fabric wrapped solenoid on top. Most whirlpools Ive seen by this stage have had the diverter valve bypassed as its usually sprung a leak.

The pump has been replaced with a modern 4 port plastic pump at some stage.

Hugs

Nathan

 

[gansky1]

Very cool - I love the font of the script in Automatic Washer (and Push-Button - too funny!)

Keep us posted on how it works - this is the most deluxe vintage Aus. washer I've seen pics of. Thanks for sharing them!

 

[brisnat81]

No Power

I vaccumed the dirt outof the inside, it was mainly palm tree seeds, and plugged it in.

No Power. No Inlet Solenoid, no motor, just silence.

Tonight I'll start testing continuity, starting with the cord and see how I go.

I opened the control panel, the mechanisim for the push buttons in pretty amazing if not huge The timer thats in there has already been reconditioned once according to the sticker.

I lifted the front, but it doesnt seem to move very far before it runs out of room to move due to the hoses.

 

[brisnat81]

Why No Power???

Hi Guys,

I've had the control panel off. Unlike any whirlpool I've worked on before, the front unscrews off the control panel case, rather than the back first.

The continuity on the Cord was fine, so I lifted the timer out to have a look.

Where the active wire goes into the timer, and about 2" away an active wire comes out, both of them appear to have either corroded or melted off the connectors that push onto the terminals ont he timer.

The continuity on the Timer is fine, no leaks and if the timer is on vs off continuity is there or not.

Hopefully the tiner is fine and its just oxidation over 40 years.

It could also have been due to water getting in there at some point. There is no seal on the bottom of the control panel, and the connectors on these two active wires when connected are about 5mm off the cabinet surface.

This weekend I'll take some pics of the timer and wiring and post. Then I'll get to see what happens.

 

[kenmore1978]

no power

Check that the OOB switch has continuity. It's inserted into the neutral side of the line. If it dies (as mine did) there will be no action at all. When the switch is tripped, the neutral line is opened and a coil is put in series with it that only allows enough current to flow to keep the switch open and make it buzz. When mine failed, I could see where the contacts had gotten so hot that it melted the plastic case and trip arm