RCA Whirlpool matching washer/dryer set

[northwesty]

My two cents worth

I have found that paint thinner prior to painting or applying anything is not the best thing to use as it can be oily too. Lacquer thinner or acetone or keytone or these other more nasty solvents work better. I also noticed that jellied rust remover unfortunately etched some of the good porcelain on my machine so in the future I will be careful not to put it where it is not needed. -- Those hard deposits are really a challenge to get off. Thanks for the pictures -- there can't be too many of them.

 

[gansky1]

Rich, those are just beautiful and will hum along like brand new when you are done with the restoration!

I love the POR-15 - I've found the same thing though, it will peel right off of porcelain finishes but is like a coating of iron for everything else.

 

[spinout]

On rust removal...

Has anyone tried using electrolytic rust removal techniques on a project like this? It could make the process much easier. I have used it for other tasks with excellent results.

>I agree with the comments about the use of laquer thinner as a preferred solvent.

 

[sudsmaster]

Typically I use Brake Clean to prepare a metal surface for painting. In critical applications, such as for an automobile, I'll use a metal etch on the bare metal as well. Brake Clean is just acetone, which is very good at removing grease and not leaving a residue. It's just more convenient because it's an aerosol.

 

[sudsmaster]

I checked into the suspension rod balls (and I am trying like heck not to make a joke of this) but the price was a bit much; $7.50 per ball, need six, so that's almost $50 for parts I'm not so sure this washer needs anyway.

Perhaps I will remove one of the upper rod brackets and see how the ball looks and feels. Can't hurt to just look.

I haven't heard of electrolytic rust removal, but I suspect it might require immersion, which might be tough for an entire washer .

Tonight it started drizzling so I'm putting off further painting until it clears up (by Saturday for sure). Meanwhile I'm warming up the paint cans in the laundry area.

 

[rickr]

hard balls?

Suds, I have rebuilt five wp/km's and only had to replace the suspention balls in one of them. The one they were replaced in was the 56 KM that sat in the junkyard. If the rubber is still ok, there is no need to replace them.
I don't cut corners either.

 

[rickr]

all good

under the hood

This 65 Kenmore was restored in June, 2003

 

[sudsmaster]

Very nice restoration, Rick. I like the way you took it all apart and painted each part the way it was when mfg (probably better than new). The color is very nice.

 

[rickr]

Thanks!

 

[sudsmaster]

Interior paint

Finally got the primer dry, and dry enough weather to put on a coat of "Navy Gray" oil based enamel.

 

[sudsmaster]

The entire interior has been primered with an anti-rust primer ("Rust Destroyer"), and then given a coat of Rustoleum Navy Gray oil based enamel. It's slow drying, and the brush work is by no means a smooth finish, but it's a pretty good barrier to any further rusting from within.

The exterior of the cabinet has some scratches that have sprouted surface rust, and some rust at the base. I am planning on dealing with these after the washer is reassembled. At the very least, some sanding, rust treatment, and touch-up will be needed. Perhaps a complete respray of the outside of the cabinet is in order, but that will need to wait for warmer and drier weather. I'll also need to have some enamel type paint mixed up to match the turquoise of the porcelain top.

There are some small areas of rust or red primer visible beyond the tape line in the photo. These will be rubbed out where possible, or slated for touch-up when I get to the exterior work.

 

[sudsmaster]

Another look at the gray interior...

 

[northwesty]

The restoration is coming along great

It sure looks nice.

 

[rickr]

Looking good Suds! You got that rust stopped in it's tracks. Too bad they didn't use a better paint under there when Wp built those machines.
You will have that back together and "Surgilating" in no time!

 

[sudsmaster]

Well, I guess I need to hurry up and finish putting this one back together. The Supreme will soon have competition... I'm picking up the piano key '71 Lady Kenmore monday night... which hopefully won't need major renovation work like this one...

 

[rickr]

Great! Can't ever have too many classic belt drives. lol!

I would pull the spin basket and clean the crud out, even if the rest of the KM is ok.

 

[sudsmaster]

I would pull the spin basket and clean the crud out

Always a good idea to clean under the basket...

Seeing as how agitator removal with the RCA was relatively easy (well, easier than with an old Maytag) I just might do that.

 

[heypal]

RCA Whirlpool Washer need part

I have a RCA Whirlpool 1962 model and the dome hose busted two weeks ago. Whirlpool no longer makes the part and I can't find it anywhere around the USA. The part number is 17288 a hose that fits in the inter drum and outer drum that kind of pushes in a makes a seal. Pretty stupid that Whirlpool made it this way as that is a specialize part.

After going on line many times and sending emails to parts dealer one guy in New York said Whirlpool made a part that is similar to the part I want and the place had a few of them in California. So I called and ordered it as it was the nearly the same demission. Now I'm waiting for the part which is 97606.

I still rather have the exact part if anyone knows where I can get 17288 will be willing to pay a good price for it.

Thanks'
Les
[email protected]