RCA Whirlpool matching washer/dryer set

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The Good News:

I just put the washer through it's paces, in the courtyard. Cold water, but Cold Water Tide came through quite nicely (although I over-dosed the throw rugs, and had to run a second rinse). Timer advanced normally, agitation normal, neutral drain and spin normal.

The Bad News:

It's a LEAKER! LOL. Looks like a fairly major leak from the front of the machine. I couldn't quite see what was up there from the back, but I'm guessing it's the pump area. Hopefully it's just a bad hose connection or something, but I'll have to open the washer up (or turn it on its face) to see what's up with that.

Will post photo of the wash action in a bit.
 
Leak is at drain

At the front of the machine (I tilted it back) there's a rubber fitting that connects the outer tub, through a sheet metal support, to a sediment trap (looks like one, at least) and from there to the pump. The sediment trap is an opaque plastic cylinder about 2 inches dia and about 8 inches long. Where it attaches to the tub, the rubber fitting is rather thin, and it has obviously cracked and is no good any more.

I'm not sure, but I'm thinking that replacing the drain rubber fitting will involve two challenges:

1) Finding the replacement part

2) Installing the replacement part. I'm suspecting the tub will have to be separated from the support to allow the new fitting to be installed, since it looks like it gets compressed between the two.

Alternatively I might be able to find a plumbing fitting that will fit around what's left of the rubber drain fitting and also the sediment trap, with two hose clamps to hold it all in place. But I think that might be a dodgy fix that could be prone to sudden failure.

Anybody have a clue as to how to proceed?

Thanks!
 
Rich

That's a great set; looks like it will have illumination.
Maybe it's leaking from the lint filter and will just need
hoses or gasketry. I know what you mean about "the city"
being easy to get lost in. I was there for eightteen years until '96 and it don't look like the same place too me. I
hated that the earthquake made all them big ugly elevated freeways get torn down. You better have a washin soon!!!!
 
Wash action

Three small all cotton round bath throw rugs (gecko style)...

Cold water, low level, Cold Water Tide. This is actually the rinse, showing I added waaay too much detergent for the load, but it shows the wash action pretty well.

12-29-2006-20-13-59--sudsmaster.jpg
 
Frontal,

Thanks. I took off the back of the control panel and there's lots of room in there for a flourescent light. It is on my list of things to add... and I'll probably include some sort of switch so it can be turned on or off regardless of washer state. I figure the top of the line machine (probably the Imperial 90 version) had the light installed.
 
Way cool machines! My niece had one in avacado in the basement of a home she bought which was a few years newer than this and was not in service for about 10 years. I hooked it up and filled it and it ran fine through agitate and neutral pump but spin was slower than slow and soggy clothes. We put it aside for a few years and hooked up her A608 Maytag. She is now moving and taking the Maytag with her. I re -hooked up the Whilpool Super 80, but took off the back panel to see the belt was coated with dust and pushed and pulled on the belt to manually turn things. After hooking up, and after two loads, the spin worked fine, in fact fast and slow as required by the cylce. These old Whirlpool machines need time to get up to speed it seems on the spin, and once they do, they seem to remember next time. I am sure the damn dust on the pulleys, wig wag spring and belts didn't help. I was used to a really crisp Maytag startup and spin, Whirlpool is more sublte, and we were alomost going to trash the machine, now we cant decide which machine to leave in the home she is selling.
 
Way cool machines! My niece has one in avacado in the basement of a home she bought which is a few years newer than this and was not in service for about 10 years. I hooked it up and filled it and it ran fine through agitate and neutral pump but spin was slower than slow and soggy clothes. We put it aside for a few years and hooked up her A608 Maytag. She is now moving and taking the Maytag with her. I re-hooked-up the Whilpool Super 80, but took off the back panel to see the belt was coated with dust and pushed and pulled on the belt to manually turn things. After hooking up, and after two loads, the spin worked fine, in fact fast and slow as required by the cylce. These old Whirlpool machines need time to get up to speed it seems on the spin, and once they do, they seem to remember next time. I am sure the damn dust on the pulleys, wig wag spring and belts didn't help. I am used to a really crisp Maytag startup and spin, Whirlpool is more sublte on the uptake and we were alomost going to trash the machine. Now we cant decide which machine to leave in the home she is selling.
 
Sorry to be redundant, and repeatitive as well.(Hah) There was a little power surge here from the space heater, so I hit send twice. (unplug the space heater from the specially dedicated computer circuit, Phil, duh?) I seem to be running out of plugs these days, however.
 
Glenn,

Thanks, that indeed appears to be the part in question. Amazing that a $10 part could involve so much work. I can't quite figure why Whirlpool didn't just attach (weld) a metal tube to the bottom of the outer tub, to extend past the support, so that a rubber connection between it and the "button trap" could more easily be replaced. After all, rubber will eventually go bad...

I don't mind a fairly major repair, as long as it doesn't require tools that I don't possess. Then again, I could probably make most tools as needed - if I knew what it looked like.

If I have to pull the inner drum, outet tub, should I plan on replacing any seals or other parts while I'm at it? I'm assuming the agitator will need to come out; are there any special concerns about how to pull it?
 
You'll need a spanner wrench to remove the basket nut. There's a "donut" seal at center of the outer tub to seal around the baseplate centerpost, which may need to be replaced (the donut seal, not the centerpost -- unfortunately centerposts aren't separately replaceable, which would be a very good thing if they were!). The centerpost may be rusted and crudded, which will need to be cleaned up in order to pull the tub and seal up. Depending on condition of the basket drive block, it may need replacing as part of the job. The four (or five?) big screws that mount the outer tub to the baseplate have gaskets which may or may not need replacing. Of course in the process of all this the outer tub should be examined for rust spots that may need attention.

Check your model number for parts at Repair Clinic, they have the spanner wrench available (although you may find one at a better price from another source), and probably any other parts you may need. If the model is too old to come up in their database, do a generic search for Whirlpool and washing machine.
 
Thanks again, Glenn.

I looked at some drawings in a generic repair manual, which has a chapter on the belt drive Whirlpool. The basket nut looks like it might take a generic type of spanner wrench, I have a couple already (and one would not be too difficult to make in the shop, time permitting).

I will check with a local parts shop for the availability of outer tub grommet, basket drive block, centerpost donut seal, and the outer tub to baseplate gaskets. At the very least I know I will need an outer tub grommet (the thing that ripped), so if they have that I will get it right away. The rest is a process of discovery ;-).
 
Beautiful Machines

These machines are absolutely gorgeous! And I find it interesting that it's a "pull to stop" and a "push to start."

Were all Whirlpools with this type of dial like this?

I wish you a complete restoration. And once it's done, call me if you'd like to sell!

In the empty space before the SUPER cycle--obviously the spot for SUDS return--does anything happen if you turn the timer knob to this section?

Thanks.

Dan
 
Hi Suds! Congratulations on your classic Whirlpools! They are beautiful!!

I would restore the machines, if I were you. If you want a great step by step manual for the process, go to "Restorations" from the home page of this web site. Robert did a wonderful step by step instruction on his restoration of his 1957 Lady Kenmore. Go to that, and simply print the whole thing out. You will then have a great instruction manual, with photos included. Just follow the instructions, and you will be fine. The 1957 Kenmore machine is the same as yours, for what you need to do.
 
I answer my own question but have a new one

Initially I assumed the spanner nut was right hand (normal) thread. But after my thin generic spanner wrench failed to remove it, I went to the appliance parts store and got one similar to what Robert shows in his restoration pages. I also asked the parts guys if the nut was right or left hand threaded. They all said left hand thread. So with the proper wrench in hand, I tried to treat it like a leftie, but no go. I made a scratch mark on the nut and post, and could see that I had moved it about 1/8 inch. So I tried treating it like a rh thread again, and Bingo!, the nut loosened I was able to get it off.

But now..... the inner drum won't just pull up and out of the washer. I'm wondering if I jammed the post for the spanner nut into something too much with the over-tightening of the spanner nut... or what... Right now I sprayed some WD40 in there and am hoping things will loosen up. I don't see any convenient way of forcing the inner tub up... although there are some air holes on the center tube near the top, that theoretically I could put some hooks into and use a 2x4 and rope lever... hmmmm....

Ahh, the combination of WD40, 2x4's and rope and elbow grease did the trick. I cut one 2x4 so that it fit the diameter of the wash basket, put a rope around it, and then used a longer 2x4 to lift the assembly), and some wiggling of the basket free. Now it's on to remove the drive block (gently!) and then the outer tub.

I am *hoping* that I don't have to drop the tranny to remove the tub. I guess I'll find out.

So far things look pretty good. There's a lot of "mud" under the wash basket, around the cone shaped rise in the tub. Almost like clay. Weird. But that all will get washed out soon enough. The frame is a bit rusty at the top, that all will get treated with a wire brush and some Jasco chromium phosphate rust converter, and then primed and painted baby blue (because I happen to have LOTS of cans of baby blue paint).

The machine is not in as bad shape as Robert's Lady Kenmore, but it definitely has seen some moist conditions (probably the unheated porch laundry room in granny's house where it came from). There is a very strong family resemblance, only minor mechanical differences, I think. The presence of the germicidal light on his machine is giving me some thought of adding a light to this one. Perhaps not germicidal, though, maybe just a nice little light to help see into the tub. And of course I'll be adding a flourescent tube fixture to the control panel before all this is done.
 
Anything in Turquiose is good and these are beautiful.

A tube of GE silicon II clear window & door sealant can really help with small leaks on these machines around the tub screws and drain grommet, especially if there is corrosion in those areas.
 
I see a little rust around one of the tub mounting bolts, but I will know more once I pull the tub out for a closer inspection. I'll keep your suggestion in mind. The drain grommet area looks clean - the problem there was that the rubber on the button trap side deteriorated and split open.
 
Hey Suds, If you cannot find the parts in California, I can get them for you at the appliance parts place here. I get a large discount, and can get them for less $$ anyway.
Let me know, if you need help.
 
Thanks, Rickr.

I was able to get the tub grommet, the center post donut, some tub cover clips, and a set of tub bolts/gaskets at a local parts store. And at much less than repair clinic wanted for same. I remains to be seen if I can pull the drive block without destroying it, LOL. I will keep you in mind in case the washer needs any more parts (likely).
 
Cool Whirlpool!

I play some heat on the drive block with a torch, then just kinda pry up on it. You can try that, or put a vice grip on it, and pound it you have to. The heat really helps, but don't get it too hot.Check the drive block for wear also. If it is worn, it can cause the bakelite Surgilator to crack under the chrome cap.

On the console lights, you can use a mini florescent in there, if you want. I used a mini florescent unit from an undercounter light (cut top part of lamp away) in the restoration of this 61 Whirlpool. I attached the wiring to the terminals on the timer so the lamp would be on when the machine was running.

I traded the machine to a friend a few years ago, so I no longer own it. But here is a pix. I think the mini florescent looks just awesome in this machine.

12-30-2006-23-58-42--rickr.jpg
 
another....

I really love the look of this machine. Maybe because it was my first restoration. lol!

12-31-2006-00-05-8--rickr.jpg
 
Very nice Whirlpool, Rick. And that Maytag dryer isn't too shabby either!

I was debating on whether to attach the light to the line current with a toggle switch on the back of the panel, or to the timer terminals. I just am not sure which timer terminal to attach to... motor, pump, or what? Which is energized all the time when the machine is on?

I have a couple of extra under-counter mini flourscents that should fit nicely behind the opaque area of the control panels. There's plenty of room in there, and even a pass-through with a notch for an electrical grommet already... which leads me to believe the top of the line (or Kenmore) models had the lighting installed.
 
Hope you are taking some photos of the restoration

I have been following the restoration with interest - would love to see a few pics of all your hard work. Sounds like things are going well. Thanks and good luck.

These pictures are great references

Happy new year.
 
Morning Suds, I just used a meter and found one that was always hot when the machine was running. I think there was a blank one in there that was prolly for the light. Been a few years.

I put some metal silver reflective furnace tape on the back cover on the console to reflect all the light forward, so the light would really punch through the front. You can find that metal tape at most hardware stores, if you want to add that.

Oh, your WP's will just be awesome when they are finished! Can't wait to see them!
 
I will take some photos at this juncture - the agitator and wash basket are removed, next step is the outer tub. The process is very similar to what Robert has already posted in his restoration of the '57 Kenmore, except I'm probably not going to drop the tranny.
 

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